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06-17-2016, 12:08 PM   #136
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QuoteOriginally posted by JoseFF Quote
Lasts three posts make a lot of sense, They make me think of a probable solution to users with this problem: To replace the part. Does anybody in this forum know if it is possible to obtain the electromagnet from any supplier?
If I get it correctly, the horse shoe should react to magnetism but shouldn't stay magnetised, to me it looks like just a metal piece inside some coils

06-17-2016, 01:52 PM   #137
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QuoteOriginally posted by JoseFF Quote
Lasts three posts make a lot of sense, They make me think of a probable solution to users with this problem: To replace the part. Does anybody in this forum know if it is possible to obtain the electromagnet from any supplier?
find a donor camera like in an old Pentax DL, it used the same electro magnet.

---------- Post added 06-17-16 at 04:56 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Nuno Almeida Quote
If I get it correctly, the horse shoe should react to magnetism but shouldn't stay magnetised, to me it looks like just a metal piece inside some coils
No according to that Russian forum it is partially magnetized but by removing enough material you reduce the drag.I also noticed that when you reverse it it also has less drag. They say that when the electro magnet kicks in that it counter act the permanent maget there by creating no resistance. That is how it works
06-17-2016, 02:20 PM   #138
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QuoteOriginally posted by niceshot Quote
find a donor camera like in an old Pentax DL, it used the same electro magnet.

---------- Post added 06-17-16 at 04:56 PM ----------


No according to that Russian forum it is partially magnetized but by removing enough material you reduce the drag.I also noticed that when you reverse it it also has less drag. They say that when the electro magnet kicks in that it counter act the permanent maget there by creating no resistance. That is how it works
Ok, I was thinking the magnet's were inside the coils the horse shoe reacted and approached them, and the coils counteracted this. If it works has the Russians said it's much harder to fix, but to be honest that doesn't make much sense to me, has I said though, I'm far from a expert in the matter, getting involved because I also have a k50, and although has been fine for 15k clicks it may knock on my door, I'm a industrial maintenance technician, but cameras aren't something I have involved myself with... yet
06-17-2016, 02:25 PM   #139
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nuno Almeida Quote
Ok, I was thinking the magnet's were inside the coils the horse shoe reacted and approached them, and the coils counteracted this. If it works has the Russians said it's much harder to fix, but to be honest that doesn't make much sense to me, has I said though, I'm far from a expert in the matter, getting involved because I also have a k50, and although has been fine for 15k clicks it may knock on my door, I'm a industrial maintenance technician, but cameras aren't something I have involved myself with... yet
I personally cant verify this as my mirror motor is gone or doesn't work . I think this magnet fix is maybe far fetched , I beleive the real culprit is a weak mirror motor

06-17-2016, 04:04 PM   #140
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QuoteOriginally posted by niceshot Quote
I personally cant verify this as my mirror motor is gone or doesn't work . I think this magnet fix is maybe far fetched , I beleive the real culprit is a weak mirror motor
Motors tend to break due to excessive load, the motor receives a electric load, but finds more mechanical resistance then what it was planned to do, or completely stuck, gets hot and the wire from the coil's melts, with a multimeter you could try to check it's resistance (ohm), but it is hard without knowing the correct values, if the resistance is too low it's kaput, if it is too high or no conductivity at all, kaput it is, best would be to compare with a working one
06-17-2016, 08:26 PM   #141
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The whole electromagnet needs to be replaced. Can it be bought new from a supplier?
06-26-2016, 03:18 PM - 1 Like   #142
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just ordered a replacement mirror motor , and started to disassemble the beast
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06-26-2016, 05:16 PM   #143
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QuoteOriginally posted by niceshot Quote
just ordered a replacement mirror motor , and started to disassemble the beast
I am sure you will succeed! Good luck!!

06-26-2016, 05:28 PM - 1 Like   #144
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QuoteOriginally posted by JoseFF Quote
I am sure you will succeed! Good luck!!
As soon as I get the motor I will carry on and I will document i so other sorry souls can fix it also.http://www.ebay.com/itm/111480915752?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT here is the link to the motor
06-29-2016, 06:19 AM   #145
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QuoteOriginally posted by niceshot Quote
yes and it has all the special software to calibrate the camera also

---------- Post added 05-28-16 at 11:29 AM ----------


get while you can
A quick note of caution: After I downloaded and expanded the archive into a new directory, I ran my anti-virus which detected the W32.Worm.Gen virus in vb6run_cs.cab/activex_chk.exe. I don't know if this was a false-positive or a real threat (though my AV seemed to think so.) The AV did not detect the virus in the zipped archive.

Last edited by joebob; 06-29-2016 at 06:21 AM. Reason: Additional info
07-02-2016, 07:17 PM - 1 Like   #146
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QuoteOriginally posted by JoseFF Quote
Lasts three posts make a lot of sense, They make me think of a probable solution to users with this problem: To replace the part. Does anybody in this forum know if it is possible to obtain the electromagnet from any supplier?
ok i took mine apart and it isnt easy . should be done as per manual. I was looking for a way to cheat there is none. any way took it apart,turns out the shutter mechanism is very stiff and most likely burned out the motor. And the motor is definitely burned out. so I am done with this project. Picked up a used one for ninety dollars. Had to clean the sensor. Any way I guess what happens is the shutter start to get stiff there by burning out the motor. i have lots of valuable pics and a motor that i don't need. The way I see it you need to replace the shutter block and the aperture control block together with a new motor to insure a good job. muchh cheaper to get a good used one like I did
07-03-2016, 07:19 AM   #147
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QuoteOriginally posted by niceshot Quote
ok i took mine apart and it isnt easy . should be done as per manual. I was looking for a way to cheat there is none. any way took it apart,turns out the shutter mechanism is very stiff and most likely burned out the motor. And the motor is definitely burned out. so I am done with this project. Picked up a used one for ninety dollars. Had to clean the sensor. Any way I guess what happens is the shutter start to get stiff there by burning out the motor. i have lots of valuable pics and a motor that i don't need. The way I see it you need to replace the shutter block and the aperture control block together with a new motor to insure a good job. muchh cheaper to get a good used one like I did
Hello niceshot, You think the problem begins with dark exposures due to aperture block malfunctioning, then it escalates to burning the motor due to stiff shutter mechanism? But, are the two things related?
07-03-2016, 07:43 AM - 1 Like   #148
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QuoteOriginally posted by JoseFF Quote
Hello niceshot, You think the problem begins with dark exposures due to aperture block malfunctioning, then it escalates to burning the motor due to stiff shutter mechanism? But, are the two things related?
if the problem is caused my the magnet then cleaning it would work. but the shutter curtain was very stiff on mine, hence forth putting undue strain on the mirror motor and burning out. So in retrospect it is my firm belief that the shutter curtain is the real culprit. And if replaced soon enough would avoid burning up the motor .The problem is where do you get one short of finding a donor body?ALSO once you are in that deep you have to re calibrate the shake reduction mechanism> Believe me it is the shutter curtain that causes this mess,
07-03-2016, 02:35 PM   #149
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QuoteOriginally posted by niceshot Quote
if the problem is caused my the magnet then cleaning it would work. but the shutter curtain was very stiff on mine, hence forth putting undue strain on the mirror motor and burning out. So in retrospect it is my firm belief that the shutter curtain is the real culprit. And if replaced soon enough would avoid burning up the motor .The problem is where do you get one short of finding a donor body?ALSO once you are in that deep you have to re calibrate the shake reduction mechanism> Believe me it is the shutter curtain that causes this mess,
I am afraid there is no way of knowing if you have a stiff shutter curtain without disassembling deeply...Please show the interesting pictures of what you have done and keep posting. Hope you reach success in this project.
07-03-2016, 07:27 PM   #150
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QuoteOriginally posted by JoseFF Quote
I am afraid there is no way of knowing if you have a stiff shutter curtain without disassembling deeply...Please show the interesting pictures of what you have done and keep posting. Hope you reach success in this project.
you are right there is no way to get to the shutter curtain without disassembling it, but trust me this is the culprit
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