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01-14-2017, 07:09 PM   #271
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@paolo11
What made me trying? A serious question. Simple. Stiffy lube as a first assumption because it's unlikely thats coils age (shorten or not shorten in most cases - ok, overheating and melting wire isolation are rare but possible) and magnetization does not magically disappear. Consider hard disks with ultra strong magnets and how long they work under various environments! But transistor drivers do age.


So you have three possible causes: Electronic, mechanic or intermediate elements (lube). Then apply basic logic and structured tests.


@paolo11 and @niceshot
Your comments are funny but not helpfully. Related to your age? That's funny!
You always are free to go the Russian way with the risk of damaging other parts of your camera.
This is not my way. Symptom follows cause and not vice versa.


In a German forum (My native language btw.) somebody reported their K30 twice repaired by an official Ricoh repair center.
This in mind I have started my tests.

01-14-2017, 07:45 PM   #272
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QuoteOriginally posted by marabella Quote
@paolo11
What made me trying? A serious question. Simple. Stiffy lube as a first assumption because it's unlikely thats coils age (shorten or not shorten in most cases - ok, overheating and melting wire isolation are rare but possible) and magnetization does not magically disappear. Consider hard disks with ultra strong magnets and how long they work under various environments! But transistor drivers do age.


So you have three possible causes: Electronic, mechanic or intermediate elements (lube). Then apply basic logic and structured tests.


@paolo11 and @niceshot
Your comments are funny but not helpfully. Related to your age? That's funny!
You always are free to go the Russian way with the risk of damaging other parts of your camera.
This is not my way. Symptom follows cause and not vice versa.


In a German forum (My native language btw.) somebody reported their K30 twice repaired by an official Ricoh repair center.
This in mind I have started my tests.
MARABELLA I think in your case it is the shutterblock, and heating the camera up expands the curtains and loosen them.
01-14-2017, 07:47 PM   #273
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QuoteOriginally posted by HarisF1 Quote
The heating could have reduced the magnetisation of the armature, if that's what causes this problem.
Since the Curie point of iron is 1043°K (769.9°C or 1417.7°F) I doubt raising the metal of the solenoid to 40°C will have much effect on the magnetic properties. BTW the melting point of iron is 1810.9°K
01-14-2017, 08:33 PM   #274
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QuoteOriginally posted by niceshot Quote
MARABELLA I think in your case it is the shutterblock, and heating the camera up expands the curtains and loosen them.
I really appreciate your comment. But it's the aperture block.
Let me explain: Under all lightning conditions F-stop went to F22.
I saw that looking at the lens when shooting LEDs and older glowing filament lamps from a near distance.
The picture shows the filament. It's not black. It's underexposured.

This is why those pictures are not black but "underexposured". A common mistake in this thread.


@not a number
Agreed. It's very very unlikely that heating up the cam to 40°C will alter the solenoid's magnetization.
My assumption of my solution: It's melting lube or material fatigue. I don't know.
All I know: It is working.


Meanwhlie I have ordered a genuine spare part aperture block which costs me 45€.
Depending on further tests this thing will find a way into my cam, to ebay or is being stocked.


Last edited by marabella; 01-14-2017 at 08:58 PM.
01-14-2017, 08:39 PM   #275
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QuoteOriginally posted by Not a Number Quote
Since the Curie point of iron is 1043°K (769.9°C or 1417.7°F) I doubt raising the metal of the solenoid to 40°C will have much effect on the magnetic properties. BTW the melting point of iron is 1810.9°K
nah. I think in is the shutter block in his case. So when it heats up the curtains free up.he will find out two or three months down the line. I figured out we all should be storing our cameras level with the flash at top sa it should be. The reason is to keep the grit in the camera away from the shutter curtain . And believe me every camera has plenty of grit floating around in that mirror box, dont beleive me go get a flashlight and a loupe and look inside the mirror box.YOU WILL BE SHOCKED

---------- Post added 01-14-17 at 10:41 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by marabella Quote
I really appreciate your comment. But it's the aperture block.
Let me explain: Under all lightning conditions F-stop went to F22.
I saw that when shooting LEDs and older glowing filament lamps from a near distance.
The picture shows the filament. It's not black. It's underexposed.


This is why those pictures are not black but "underexposured". A common mistake in this thread.
Cause one curtain goes up and the second one chases it
01-14-2017, 09:10 PM   #276
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QuoteOriginally posted by niceshot Quote
nah. I think in is the shutter block in his case. So when it heats up the curtains free up.he will find out two or three months down the line. I figured out we all should be storing our cameras level with the flash at top sa it should be. The reason is to keep the grit in the camera away from the shutter curtain . And believe me every camera has plenty of grit floating around in that mirror box, dont beleive me go get a flashlight and a loupe and look inside the mirror box.YOU WILL BE SHOCKED

---------- Post added 01-14-17 at 10:41 PM ----------

Cause one curtain goes up and the second one chases it


excellent


My English/US-English teacher always complained: You gave us Adjektive.
Followed by: But hey, we gave you idioms.


And I can tell you: Idioms by far are harder to learn than adjectives.
01-14-2017, 10:09 PM   #277
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QuoteOriginally posted by marabella Quote
excellent


My English/US-English teacher always complained: You gave us Adjektive.
Followed by: But hey, we gave you idioms.


And I can tell you: Idioms by far are harder to learn than adjectives.
NAH , go back to school .

01-15-2017, 05:27 PM   #278
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Yep, I'm willing to go back. But this thingy NAH?


Was zum Teufel meint das?


Hey, google translate.
01-15-2017, 07:10 PM   #279
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QuoteOriginally posted by marabella Quote
Yep, I'm willing to go back. But this thingy NAH?


Was zum Teufel meint das?


Hey, google translate.
nah nine nah
01-18-2017, 01:12 AM   #280
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QuoteOriginally posted by xunwp Quote
This is what I did on the "horse shoe" armature. It works! Cheers!
Bad news, the aperture problem comes back when the Lion battery is fully charged, while it does work well when the battery is not fully charged. However, the aperture problem is slightly different from that before I repaired it using the Russian method, the following are the details.
When I switch to LV mode, the aperture shrink to the correct F stop first, then after a very short delay (maybe less than 0.1s), it continues to shrink to the minimum. So it seems that the solenoid fails to hold the aperture in correct position when it should do. This problem occurs at about 20% probability when I switch on/off LV mode. BTW, the aperture always works fine with depth of field preview button.

I think it is a voltage-related problem since it only occurs with a fully charged Lion battery. This agrees with the fact that AA batteries can help solve the aperture problem. AA did work on my K30 for the last year until it got worse.

Perhaps I have to pick up my AA batteries again. I wonder whether it is because I sand the "horse shoe" too much. However, it is very strange that a fully charged battery causes the aperture failure.
01-18-2017, 04:09 AM   #281
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QuoteOriginally posted by xunwp Quote
Bad news, the aperture problem comes back when the Lion battery is fully charged, while it does work well when the battery is not fully charged. However, the aperture problem is slightly different from that before I repaired it using the Russian method, the following are the details.
When I switch to LV mode, the aperture shrink to the correct F stop first, then after a very short delay (maybe less than 0.1s), it continues to shrink to the minimum. So it seems that the solenoid fails to hold the aperture in correct position when it should do. This problem occurs at about 20% probability when I switch on/off LV mode. BTW, the aperture always works fine with depth of field preview button.

I think it is a voltage-related problem since it only occurs with a fully charged Lion battery. This agrees with the fact that AA batteries can help solve the aperture problem. AA did work on my K30 for the last year until it got worse.

Perhaps I have to pick up my AA batteries again. I wonder whether it is because I sand the "horse shoe" too much. However, it is very strange that a fully charged battery causes the aperture failure.
I hate to say this but it also could be your shutter block. I SAID IT SOME TIME BACK IN ORDER TO FIX IT CORRECTLY YOU NEED TO REPLACE BOTH THE APERTURE BLOCK AND THE SHUTTER BLOCK.
01-18-2017, 04:36 AM   #282
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QuoteOriginally posted by niceshot Quote
I hate to say this but it also could be your shutter block. I SAID IT SOME TIME BACK IN ORDER TO FIX IT CORRECTLY YOU NEED TO REPLACE BOTH THE APERTURE BLOCK AND THE SHUTTER BLOCK.
Do you mean that the shutter block leads to the aperture failure? I can confirm that the aperture shrinks to the minimum. And now it only occurs with a fully charged lion battery. If the shutter also fails, I will just leave it.
Thank you!
01-18-2017, 05:38 AM   #283
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QuoteOriginally posted by xunwp Quote
Do you mean that the shutter block leads to the aperture failure? I can confirm that the aperture shrinks to the minimum. And now it only occurs with a fully charged lion battery. If the shutter also fails, I will just leave it.
Thank you!
No they are independent of each other., but usually the mirror motor which is part of the aperture block gets tired and then fails altogether. I f you get no live view that is the shutter block 100 percent.
01-18-2017, 06:24 AM   #284
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QuoteOriginally posted by niceshot Quote
No they are independent of each other., but usually the mirror motor which is part of the aperture block gets tired and then fails altogether. I f you get no live view that is the shutter block 100 percent.
I think it is aperture block on my k30. I can get live view on the screen even though it is very dark due to the minimum aperture.
Now my k30 works perfectly with AA batteries, again. The aperture block is really a strange problem.
01-18-2017, 07:51 AM   #285
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QuoteOriginally posted by niceshot Quote
I hate to say this but it also could be your shutter block. I SAID IT SOME TIME BACK IN ORDER TO FIX IT CORRECTLY YOU NEED TO REPLACE BOTH THE APERTURE BLOCK AND THE SHUTTER BLOCK.
I really believe the battery isn't the problem, though it could have less force pulling the plunger. One person mentioned that it worked with the AA's which contradicts fully charged lithium battery.. I just got mine back from repairing the aperture block, and so far so good. Using a fully charged battery.

The whole problem with the repair is how much do you take off? Now, you can buy an entire new aperture block on Ebay for 39.00 shipped from Japan, perhaps this will give you some life until it fails again.

But who knows how long this will last though the repaired gives a years warranty. if the problem happens again, I'll just use it for manual shots and buy my wife a new camera.

---------- Post added 01-18-17 at 10:00 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by xunwp Quote
I think it is aperture block on my k30. I can get live view on the screen even though it is very dark due to the minimum aperture.
Now my k30 works perfectly with AA batteries, again. The aperture block is really a strange problem.
That's exactly the problem I had with the K50 which uses the same block as the K30. I would fire off shots in the "sport mode", and the problem would disappear until I turned it off, then same scenario.
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