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05-27-2016, 07:38 AM   #46
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QuoteOriginally posted by THoog Quote
I think they are referring to the flash capacitor. The "beast that bites" is about the size of an AA battery, and anyone opening up a digital camera should be careful to discharge the flash capacitor or they may get a nasty jolt. In most (all?) Pentax cameras, it's located in the body behind the model name.

Once again, from the K100D teardown - the flash capacitor is the large black cylinder.
exactly, the beast that bites it was called in one of those photos. By the way - your ability to translate Googalized Russian is really amazing

---------- Post added 05-27-16 at 07:39 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by JoseFF Quote
You are right, That is an important quote to do IgorZ. Yesterday, we obtained good advance and your help was vital. By the way, were you able to contact our Russian friends?
Yes - I did hear from one of them, the guy who used a lubricant instead of filing armature arms. He said his camera has been working fine.

05-27-2016, 07:47 AM   #47
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QuoteOriginally posted by THoog Quote
I think they are referring to the flash capacitor. The "beast that bites" is about the size of an AA battery, and anyone opening up a digital camera should be careful to discharge the flash capacitor or they may get a nasty jolt. In most (all?) Pentax cameras, it's located in the body behind the model name.

Once again, from the K100D teardown - the flash capacitor is the large black cylinder.
Any particular technique to do it safely for you and the equipment that you could outline?
05-27-2016, 08:10 AM   #48
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QuoteOriginally posted by JoseFF Quote
Any particular technique to do it safely for you and the equipment that you could outline?
The guy who came up with the solution says that you should attach wires from the tester (I guess voltage tester) to a lamp and drain the capacitor. He said you may have to do it a couple of times, until there are only 2-10 volts
05-27-2016, 08:11 AM   #49
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QuoteOriginally posted by IgorZ Quote
By the way, not the instructions themselves, but in other places in the thread we discussed yesterday, they mentioned that there is a capacitor that needs to be drained, otherwise you'll get zapped
You are correct about that capacitor, some 330 volts in it. any way I able to download detailed instructions that came from Ricoh along with some very useful software

---------- Post added 05-27-16 at 11:15 AM ----------

I believe some dust build up and become magnetize and makes it to polarized ,so much so in fact that the electromagnet cant over come it . so if you clean it it would probable suffice

05-27-2016, 08:48 AM   #50
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QuoteOriginally posted by IgorZ Quote
exactly, the beast that bites it was called in one of those photos. By the way - your ability to translate Googalized Russian is really amazing

---------- Post added 05-27-16 at 07:39 AM ----------



Yes - I did hear from one of them, the guy who used a lubricant instead of filing armature arms. He said his camera has been working fine.
I still donīt feel confident enough to do the job, Iīll read again the notes in this thread and wait for more postings and info. My camera is still working in M mode and I am using it mildly
05-27-2016, 09:17 AM   #51
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QuoteOriginally posted by JoseFF Quote
I still donīt feel confident enough to do the job, Iīll read again the notes in this thread and wait for more postings and info. My camera is still working in M mode and I am using it mildly
If that makes in any easier, one of the guys replaced the whole magnet assembly with the one from K-5, which he claimed was better. I suppose it is possible to find it, or a broken down K-5 somewhere...
05-27-2016, 09:45 AM   #52
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QuoteOriginally posted by IgorZ Quote
If that makes in any easier, one of the guys replaced the whole magnet assembly with the one from K-5, which he claimed was better. I suppose it is possible to find it, or a broken down K-5 somewhere...
Well that proves where the problem is, and the is a start,shame on Pentax for turning us into camera Techs
05-27-2016, 09:45 AM   #53
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QuoteOriginally posted by IgorZ Quote
If that makes in any easier, one of the guys replaced the whole magnet assembly with the one from K-5, which he claimed was better. I suppose it is possible to find it, or a broken down K-5 somewhere...
Really? I thought the guy had tried to replace it but didnīt finally do it for some incompatibility reason...

---------- Post added 05-27-16 at 09:47 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by JoseFF Quote
Really? I thought the guy had tried to replace it but didnīt finally do it for some incompatibility reason...
As a solution I like it better. Replacing is always easier and less risky than repairing...

05-27-2016, 10:04 AM   #54
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I have both a K30 and a K50. Both are functioning normally at the moment, but it is pleasing to know that there appears to be a diy fix for this problem. The only part that would make me a little nervous would be discharging the capacitor correctly. The disassembly and reassembly don't look to be too difficult - just need to be done carefully.

Colin
05-27-2016, 11:15 AM   #55
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Discharging the capacitor isn't difficult - you just have to be careful. Fans of the Digital Rev videos may remember Kai shocking himself multiple times whenever he dismantles a body. ("Kai" and "careful" do not belong in the same sentence.)

The old-fashioned way to discharge a flash capacitor it is to touch a screwdriver across the leads and let it go POP! A better way is to put some resistive load on it like a voltmeter with a high DC voltage setting. (the fellow who used a lamp and a voltmeter was really protecting the lamp with the voltmeter, rather than vice versa)
05-27-2016, 11:21 AM   #56
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Thanks Todd, I might need a voltmeter for another hobby, so this gives me another excuse to invest in one(just in case). I must admit I thought what you actually said about the relationship between the lamp and the voltmeter.

Colin
05-27-2016, 11:45 AM - 1 Like   #57
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QuoteOriginally posted by nicolpa47 Quote
Thanks Todd, I might need a voltmeter for another hobby, so this gives me another excuse to invest in one(just in case). I must admit I thought what you actually said about the relationship between the lamp and the voltmeter.

Colin
it takes ten min or more doing it now need to set voltage meter at 600 v

---------- Post added 05-27-16 at 02:46 PM ----------

it is at the black and blue wire
05-27-2016, 11:53 AM   #58
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QuoteOriginally posted by THoog Quote
Discharging the capacitor isn't difficult - you just have to be careful. Fans of the Digital Rev videos may remember Kai shocking himself multiple times whenever he dismantles a body. ("Kai" and "careful" do not belong in the same sentence.)

The old-fashioned way to discharge a flash capacitor it is to touch a screwdriver across the leads and let it go POP! A better way is to put some resistive load on it like a voltmeter with a high DC voltage setting. (the fellow who used a lamp and a voltmeter was really protecting the lamp with the voltmeter, rather than vice versa)
Thank you THoog, I appreciate it. I think I will survive it
05-27-2016, 12:35 PM   #59
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QuoteOriginally posted by JoseFF Quote
Thank you THoog, I appreciate it. I think I will survive it
Ok got the capacitor discharged, took 15min ,got the top off and the front cover off.I am at the electro magnet . You will need mek and a desolder gun and jeweler glass as it is quite tiny. I am going to take a break
05-27-2016, 01:29 PM   #60
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QuoteOriginally posted by niceshot Quote
Ok got the capacitor discharged, took 15min ,got the top off and the front cover off.I am at the electro magnet . You will need mek and a desolder gun and jeweler glass as it is quite tiny. I am going to take a break
I hope you are taking pictures as you go along...
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