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01-09-2019, 03:29 AM   #781
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My daughter is still using my ABF K-30 with the AA adapter, after two years.

01-09-2019, 06:38 AM   #782
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QuoteOriginally posted by photolady95 Quote
My daughter is still using my ABF K-30 with the AA adapter, after two years.
Using it with the AA Adapter enhances the chance of longer life due to the higher current good AA's can deliver.

Doesn't change the fact that a lot of those repaired K30/50's have developed the same problem again.

The reason is pretty obvious: It's the same green solenoid which is built in again.
They don't have any other. The white solenoids are no longer manufactured because the company moved their plants long time ago to China.

So good if your daugher uses your K30 with the AA adapter. You must have chosen it for a (good) reason?
01-09-2019, 09:05 AM   #783
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I'm just saying when my K-30 black one showed signs of the ABF, I put the AA adapter in it with Eneloops and used it for a year, then gave the camera to my daughter who has been using it for another year the same way and it is fine that way without having to change the solenoid. It might work for others too, who changed the solenoid and it broke again to try the AA adapter with Eneloops instead of just any battery.
01-09-2019, 07:37 PM   #784
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Just an update on my K-50.
Mine was bought in 2015 and now has captured over 12000 images. When the dreaded ABF occurred, I took it to C.R.Kennedy who are the Australian agents for Pentax. One week later my camera was returned, repaired and at no cost to me. My advice (particularly if you are in Australia) is contact the agent and see how you go. Mine was repaired well out of warranty and with 12000 images for no cost. No point me stuffing around trying to fix it myself when the agent obviously stands behind their product.

01-10-2019, 01:47 AM   #785
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QuoteOriginally posted by jimboombapete Quote
Just an update on my K-50.
Mine was bought in 2015 and now has captured over 12000 images. When the dreaded ABF occurred, I took it to C.R.Kennedy who are the Australian agents for Pentax. One week later my camera was returned, repaired and at no cost to me. My advice (particularly if you are in Australia) is contact the agent and see how you go. Mine was repaired well out of warranty and with 12000 images for no cost. No point me stuffing around trying to fix it myself when the agent obviously stands behind their product.
Well, it was about 2 month ago that you got your K50 back and thus one cannot say yet how long it will last and what kind of repair C.R. Kennedy undertook.


QuoteOriginally posted by photolady95 Quote
I'm just saying when my K-30 black one showed signs of the ABF, I put the AA adapter in it with Eneloops and used it for a year, then gave the camera to my daughter who has been using it for another year the same way and it is fine that way without having to change the solenoid. It might work for others too, who changed the solenoid and it broke again to try the AA adapter with Eneloops instead of just any battery.
If private users changed the solenoid hopefully they used the white "made in Japan" version.
If they used the green "made in China" one ... too bad ...

But if they changed it they know how to do it again and this time proberly.
01-13-2019, 02:28 AM   #786
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Last week I received a Aperture controll block from USCamera which they call the Diaphragm Control Block .


It has the China made green solenoid on it! (I had ordered it because another member wrote that he got his solenoid with a white solenoid. I hoped to get a control block with a new white solenoid, which would have been something quite rare.



But it was anyway a very useful buy because I could do some tests with it:


With the China green solenoid the release time of the horseshoe/plunger was 10 ms


Then I installed a white "Made in Japan" solenoid from a defunct Pentax K10D: Release time was 2 ms!


This explains what I always felt I heard as a difference and noticed also when I did a series of shots:


With the white Solenoid the K30 (and the others) shoot faster and more precise.


Several people I know of have meanwhile ordered the same unit from this source!

All came with the green solenoid!

Logic! Because the white solenoid is no longer manufactured since a long time, the manufacturer moved his plants from Japan to China!
01-13-2019, 03:33 AM   #787
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I wanted to ask too a question about which cameras you mentioned earlier that had the correct color solenoid. I thought you mentioned a K-x? Is that correct? Or was that the film camera KX?
01-13-2019, 02:12 PM   #788
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BTW I extracted one similar solenoid from a notebook DVD drive:
http://rayer.g6.cz/hardware/pentax.k30/soleno4.jpg
But as I measured the coil DC resistance it was only 16,6 ohm while K-30 coild has 29 ohm. So I wouldn't use it as it may damage some transistor switching the coil due to overcurrent (If I assume that it is powered directly from battery 8,4V the current could reach 0,5A).

01-13-2019, 06:13 PM   #789
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QuoteOriginally posted by photolady95 Quote
I wanted to ask too a question about which cameras you mentioned earlier that had the correct color solenoid. I thought you mentioned a K-x? Is that correct? Or was that the film camera KX?
It is the digital K-x!

---------- Post added 01-13-19 at 06:15 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by RayeR Quote
BTW I extracted one similar solenoid from a notebook DVD drive:
http://rayer.g6.cz/hardware/pentax.k30/soleno4.jpg
But as I measured the coil DC resistance it was only 16,6 ohm while K-30 coild has 29 ohm. So I wouldn't use it as it may damage some transistor switching the coil due to overcurrent (If I assume that it is powered directly from battery 8,4V the current could reach 0,5A).
Very bad idea to use those, we have mentioned this often.
They are also made in China.

The ONLY correct solution is the white Made in Japan Solenoid.
Check all the other posts and threads and study them well.
01-13-2019, 09:31 PM   #790
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QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
It is the digital K-x!
Well, that's good to know because I still have my little K-x, should one of my two K-50 or K-30s go the ABF I can butcher the K-x and fix either one because I don't use the K-x, I keep it for sentimental value only.
01-14-2019, 02:31 AM   #791
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QuoteOriginally posted by photolady95 Quote
Well, that's good to know because I still have my little K-x, should one of my two K-50 or K-30s go the ABF I can butcher the K-x and fix either one because I don't use the K-x, I keep it for sentimental value only.
Yes, and as far as people told me the K-x (and K100D/K200D/K2000) sold to USA and Canada have all 2 x the white solenoid!
So you do get 2 of them.
Then you can even do the "dreaded" (!) sanding method and reinstall those bad solenoids of your K30/50's into the K-x to see what happens.
Worth the experiment.
Just don't sell it or give it away, it's prone to go bad sooner than later.
01-14-2019, 02:41 AM   #792
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QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
Yes, and as far as people told me the K-x (and K100D/K200D/K2000) sold to USA and Canada have all 2 x the white solenoid!
So you do get 2 of them.
Then you can even do the "dreaded" (!) sanding method and reinstall those bad solenoids of your K30/50's into the K-x to see what happens.
Worth the experiment.
Just don't sell it or give it away, it's prone to go bad sooner than later.
Perhaps, if I can get my daughter to turn lose of hers long enough, we can fix her broken K-30 with the K-x. If they have two, where is the second one located?
01-14-2019, 10:22 AM   #793
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QuoteOriginally posted by photolady95 Quote
Perhaps, if I can get my daughter to turn lose of hers long enough, we can fix her broken K-30 with the K-x. If they have two, where is the second one located?
in the flash compartment. A bit more tricky to get to because you have to take the top of the K-x off completly and yet it is held by a few cables including a flat sensitive ribboncable. Be careful when you take the front of the k-x off, the microphone sits on the front and you have to take it off (1 tiny screw).
Good idea is to get a long JIS screwdriver, those are far superior to Philips. Also a good idea is to repair the scroll wheel of the k-x:
Pentax K-X scroll wheel repair
01-14-2019, 11:17 AM   #794
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QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
in the flash compartment. A bit more tricky to get to because you have to take the top of the K-x off completly and yet it is held by a few cables including a flat sensitive ribboncable. Be careful when you take the front of the k-x off, the microphone sits on the front and you have to take it off (1 tiny screw).
Good idea is to get a long JIS screwdriver, those are far superior to Philips. Also a good idea is to repair the scroll wheel of the k-x:
Pentax K-X scroll wheel repair
Thanks. I just happen to have a set of JIS screwdrivers. Bought them specifically for taking apart lenses. But also for taking apart laptop computers which have the same type of screws.
01-14-2019, 12:06 PM   #795
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QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
Using it with the AA Adapter enhances the chance of longer life due to the higher current good AA's can deliver.
Higher current or lower voltage?

At the very end, just before I gave up on body aperture control and switched to lenses with aperture rings, my K-30 body provided aperture control with partially charged AA batteries but not with fully charged ones. {yes, I know that every body acts slightly differently}, Now the K-30 and aperture-ring lenses sit in my closet as backup to my new KP.
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