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05-28-2016, 07:40 AM - 1 Like   #76
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QuoteOriginally posted by nicolpa47 Quote
Thanks for the information - I'd done a web search and found nothing. I presume it was a web download from Ricoh US. I'm in UK.

Colin
PENTAX K-30, K-50 Series Service Manual here you are

05-28-2016, 08:27 AM   #77
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Hello Niceshot,

thank you for posting the link to the manual. 13$ is absolutely ok, you can't expect to get everything for free. Is it the original Pentax manual? I would have thought that they restrict the sale to their dealers and service companies and sell it directly to them.
05-28-2016, 08:28 AM   #78
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QuoteOriginally posted by Altglas Quote
Hello Niceshot,

thank you for posting the link to the manual. 13$ is absolutely ok, you can't expect to get everything for free. Is it the original Pentax manual? I would have thought that they restrict the sale to their dealers and service companies and sell it directly to them.
yes and it has all the special software to calibrate the camera also

---------- Post added 05-28-16 at 11:29 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by niceshot Quote
yes and it has all the special software to calibrate the camera also
get while you can
05-28-2016, 09:07 AM   #79
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QuoteOriginally posted by niceshot Quote
Hi Niceshot, Could you tell us what is the number part of the electromagnet?

05-28-2016, 09:16 AM   #80
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QuoteOriginally posted by JoseFF Quote
Hi Niceshot, Could you tell us what is the number part of the electromagnet?
yah look like it is 0-m51 but i dont think you will need to replace it just a drrop of oil by the so called anchor. But in the end I beleive it is the diaphagm control block that is the culprit

Last edited by niceshot; 05-28-2016 at 09:18 AM. Reason: add
05-28-2016, 10:39 AM   #81
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QuoteOriginally posted by niceshot Quote
Thanks very much for the information. I'd searched previously and not found anything. I tried again after your earlier post and eventually found the page you have linked to. I thought I'd wait to see if you posted a source in confirmation, so your effort is much appreciated.

Colin
05-28-2016, 10:54 AM   #82
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QuoteOriginally posted by niceshot Quote
yah look like it is 0-m51 but i dont think you will need to replace it just a drrop of oil by the so called anchor. But in the end I beleive it is the diaphagm control block that is the culprit
Thank you, I hope everything goes well with your case.
05-28-2016, 01:25 PM   #83
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QuoteOriginally posted by JoseFF Quote
Thank you, I hope everything goes well with your case.
thx , I intend to strip it down all the way and find out the problem but I seen something in the instructions that maybe I can un jam it from the left side.Cause my feeling id it is just jammed up

05-28-2016, 02:35 PM   #84
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QuoteOriginally posted by niceshot Quote
yah look like it is 0-m51 but i dont think you will need to replace it just a drrop of oil by the so called anchor. But in the end I beleive it is the diaphagm control block that is the culprit
Oil?


Steve
05-28-2016, 02:38 PM   #85
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
Oil?


Steve
yes a little bit is fine it is either that or use a file and do a hack job
05-28-2016, 02:55 PM   #86
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QuoteOriginally posted by niceshot Quote
yes a little bit is fine it is either that or use a file and do a hack job
OK...you say so. Perhaps one of the more experienced camera techs on this site will weigh in with their recommendation for grade and type of lubrication for this location. Parts that are made to "run dry" typically are that way for a reason.


Steve
05-28-2016, 03:01 PM   #87
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
OK...you say so. Perhaps one of the more experienced camera techs on this site will weigh in with their recommendation for grade and type of lubrication for this location. Parts that are made to "run dry" typically are that way for a reason.


Steve
Just so you know I observed a small amount of light weight oil, so i would say a small amount like a little dab on the end of a q-tip
05-29-2016, 05:45 AM   #88
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In camera repair oils and greases are generally only used in homeopathic doses. The quicker the parts move, the more drag you add with the lubicants. The timing gears of shutters are lubricated by washing them with lighter fluid and fine graphite. The slower running bearings may get an additional screw driver tip wetted with light sewing machine oil. The film transport gears are nearly the only parts that are lightly greased. A drop of oil is much to much in all camera repair appications. You put a drop of oil on a surface, dip a small screw driver lightly with the tip in it and touch the bearing that has to be oiled. The quickest way to ruin a camera is a quick spray with WD 40. WD 40 is bad anyway because it doesn't lubricate well and gums up with time. The oil should be acid free to minimize gumming up.

I haven't seen the defective K-30 parts myself. I would guess that bigger surfaces are involved and oiling might lead to too much drag.
05-29-2016, 07:12 AM   #89
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When I worked in a parts store we had an additive called energy release and it had a testing display. This additive actually permeated the metal it seemed like where you actually had to take sand paper to the steel wheel to "clean" off the lubricant. If I were to try this repair, I would put some on a q-tip, dab the surface that needs it, and clean off all excess with a dry q-tip. There would be nothing to spread to the rest of the camera. The thought of graphite powder would scare the hell out of me, just personal opinion.

edit: link to it on amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Release-P001-Anti-Friction-Treatment/dp/B009WVI...=sr_1_4&sr=8-4
05-29-2016, 08:03 AM   #90
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QuoteOriginally posted by 1wild1 Quote
When I worked in a parts store we had an additive called energy release and it had a testing display. This additive actually permeated the metal it seemed like where you actually had to take sand paper to the steel wheel to "clean" off the lubricant. If I were to try this repair, I would put some on a q-tip, dab the surface that needs it, and clean off all excess with a dry q-tip. There would be nothing to spread to the rest of the camera. The thought of graphite powder would scare the hell out of me, just personal opinion.

edit: link to it on amazon. Amazon.com: Energy Release P001 Anti-Friction Engine Treatment - 5 fl. oz. bottle: Automotive
Very well put.
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