K-30 / K-50 Aperture Block Failue - Repair Solution available

richandfleur · 07-20-2016, 01:14 AM

Absolutely gutted this evening. Having been right through to the aperture magnetic solenoid component, I found the top FPC connector broken, so couldn't correctly reattached the top ribbon cable.
As a result the top plate dials, such as the mode control and live view button etc don't work.
Had disconnected to avoid breaking the ribbon, as I'd heard it was fragile, but am now unable to connect the ribbon back.

Huge waste of time, and I can't contribute if my aperture solenoid tweaking actually had a positive result

Personally, for anyone else considering this, I don't necessarily think you need to disconnect either the cable or desolder the flash side wires either, to proceed further down and remove the front plate.

**niceshot** · 07-20-2016, 01:40 AM

Originally posted by richandfleur

Absolutely gutted this evening. Having been right through to the aperture magnetic solenoid component, I found the top FPC connector broken, so couldn't correctly reattached the top ribbon cable.
As a result the top plate dials, such as the mode control and live view button etc don't work.
Had disconnected to avoid breaking the ribbon, as I'd heard it was fragile, but am now unable to connect the ribbon back.

Huge waste of time, and I can't contribute if my aperture solenoid tweaking actually had a positive result

Personally, for anyone else considering this, I don't necessarily think you need to disconnect either the cable or desolder the flash side wires either, to proceed further down and remove the front plate.

When you say you found the FPC broken Plz elaborate. As far as the ribbon cable I broke mine cus I didnt disconnect it. Y ou should be able to slide it back it unless somehow you damage the socket. Use a magnifying glass and look for a tab usually white and slide it up put your ribbon in and push the tab back down.

richandfleur · 07-20-2016, 01:43 AM

No the socket is damaged. Ribbon is fine, but cannot be seated correctly/reliably any more.

**niceshot** · 07-20-2016, 02:00 AM

Originally posted by richandfleur

No the socket is damaged. Ribbon is fine, but cannot be seated correctly/reliably any more.

did the tab get ruined? some times the things are tricky. I had one where you couldnt tell it was connected but it was.

richandfleur · 07-20-2016, 02:43 AM

There is a tiny 1mm section that has come off the socket. The socket is broken and the cable can no longer align or seat properly. Which rather stuffs it, but is a lesson at least for others.

mt92 · 07-20-2016, 02:58 AM

I have been reading this after be thoroughly disgusted by the lack of support for this known problem by Pentax. Last nigh I decided to take my K-50 apart and have a look(nothing to loose). I noticed the electro magnet on the right side of the lens and I wiggled the white gear. The camera will work after doing this but only for a few hours then it quiets again. I assume I need to replace the motor in the link above?

Thanks
Mike

richandfleur · 07-20-2016, 03:14 AM

I just say the whole thing could have been handled better for sure. All brands have issues, but it's what they do about it that counts.

I feel the same when I read of other brands brining new features and capabilities to their products years later via free firmware upgrades...

mt92 · 07-20-2016, 01:01 PM

So if I replace the motor with the one above will that take care of it?

**niceshot** · 07-20-2016, 02:51 PM

Originally posted by mt92

So if I replace the motor with the one above will that take care of it?

It is a major job, to get to that aperture motor,. First you need to disassemble it all the way down to the mirror box. That means the t100 board has to come off followed by the shake reduction block followed by the shutter block and remove the battery compartment and then raise the mirror by giving the motor 2 volts and then carefully removing the aperture block and whilist you are there just replace the whole damn thing along with the shutter. unless you like these little hobbies, it is best to avoid it and leave well enough alone. Also you better be an expert micro solderer.

**Nakedgun** · 07-20-2016, 07:18 PM

Originally posted by niceshot

It is a major job, to get to that aperture motor,. First you need to disassemble it all the way down to the mirror box. That means the t100 board has to come off followed by the shake reduction block followed by the shutter block and remove the battery compartment and then raise the mirror by giving the motor 2 volts and then carefully removing the aperture block and whilist you are there just replace the whole damn thing along with the shutter. unless you like these little hobbies, it is best to avoid it and leave well enough alone. Also you better be an expert micro solderer.

I'd say replacing my V-8 timing belt a blindfold job, by comparison.

mt92 · 07-21-2016, 02:55 AM

Does working on the magnetic latch as illustrated in the beginning of this thread do any good?

**JoseFF** · 07-22-2016, 12:13 PM

Those of you who have had this kind of problems with your K30/50...please click on the link to answer the poll

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/151-pentax-k-30-k-50/325832-poll-establis...re-issues.html

**JoseFF** · 07-23-2016, 08:43 AM

Originally posted by reh321

If I understand correctly, your survey was a followup to another survey
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/151-pentax-k-30-k-50/325815-survey-shutte...r-failure.html
{please do answer these surveys if you do care about this matter - the results so far suggest that the problem is less serious than the stories would indicate}

You could say so... but my poll is directed to find out if there is a relationship between the two issues. The result should let us know how many of the cameras that presented issue number 1 (Aperture failure) have also presented issue number 2.
My K-30 at the moment presents only number 1, so far nothing indicates symptoms of issue number 2. My fingers are crossed !

!

**reduno** · 07-25-2016, 10:30 AM - **2 Likes**

Originally posted by mt92

Does working on the magnetic latch as illustrated in the beginning of this thread do any good?

I have been looking at the aperture mechanism on a K-x (model I currently have with the covers off). It looks like the horseshoe solenoid referred to at the beginning of this thread is used to stop the aperture from closing down when the mirror motor is activated. I was experimenting using manual (M) mode and a long shutter time (in seconds).

If I set the aperture to the maximum value for the lens, the solenoid actuates immediately and the gear that drives the aperture lever does not turn when the mirror flips up. If I set a smaller aperture the solenoid activation looks to be delayed, and the gear turns part way to step the aperture down. Looking at the the photos of the aperture mechanism in the thread https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/189-repairs-warranty-service/325334-k-30-...iy-repair.html it looks like the gear set include a rotation sensor (disc with holes in last photo) that could detect how far the aperture has opened. The lever may then be stopped at the required aperture by actuating the solenoid.

If the solenoid is sticking (or being held in place by magnetization of the core) it looks quite possible that the aperture would always close all the way down. Looking around the web, it appears the same basic design was also used back on the auto focus film cameras prior to the *ist D.

**niceshot** · 07-25-2016, 12:36 PM

Originally posted by reduno

I have been looking at the aperture mechanism on a K-x (model I currently have with the covers off). It looks like the horseshoe solenoid referred to at the beginning of this thread is used to stop the aperture from closing down when the mirror motor is activated. I was experimenting using manual (M) mode and a long shutter time (in seconds).

If I set the aperture to the maximum value for the lens, the solenoid actuates immediately and the gear that drives the aperture lever does not turn when the mirror flips up. If I set a smaller aperture the solenoid activation looks to be delayed, and the gear turns part way to step the aperture down. Looking at the the photos of the aperture mechanism in the thread https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/189-repairs-warranty-service/325334-k-30-...iy-repair.html it looks like the gear set include a rotation sensor (disc with holes in last photo) that could detect how far the aperture has opened. The lever may then be stopped at the required aperture by actuating the solenoid.

If the solenoid is sticking (or being held in place by magnetization of the core) it looks quite possible that the aperture would always close all the way down. Looking around the web, it appears the same basic design was also used back on the auto focus film cameras prior to the *ist D.

Nice observation, point noted.

07-23-2016, 08:43 AM	#193
JoseFF Site Supporter Join Date: Feb 2016 Posts: 184	Originally posted by reh321 If I understand correctly, your survey was a followup to another survey https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/151-pentax-k-30-k-50/325815-survey-shutte...r-failure.html {please do answer these surveys if you do care about this matter - the results so far suggest that the problem is less serious than the stories would indicate} You could say so... but my poll is directed to find out if there is a relationship between the two issues. The result should let us know how many of the cameras that presented issue number 1 (Aperture failure) have also presented issue number 2. My K-30 at the moment presents only number 1, so far nothing indicates symptoms of issue number 2. My fingers are crossed !!

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07-20-2016, 01:14 AM	#181
richandfleur Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Palmerston North, New Zealand Photos: Albums Posts: 1,788	Absolutely gutted this evening. Having been right through to the aperture magnetic solenoid component, I found the top FPC connector broken, so couldn't correctly reattached the top ribbon cable. As a result the top plate dials, such as the mode control and live view button etc don't work. Had disconnected to avoid breaking the ribbon, as I'd heard it was fragile, but am now unable to connect the ribbon back. Huge waste of time, and I can't contribute if my aperture solenoid tweaking actually had a positive result Personally, for anyone else considering this, I don't necessarily think you need to disconnect either the cable or desolder the flash side wires either, to proceed further down and remove the front plate.

07-20-2016, 01:40 AM	#182
niceshot Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: NY Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,564	Originally posted by richandfleur Absolutely gutted this evening. Having been right through to the aperture magnetic solenoid component, I found the top FPC connector broken, so couldn't correctly reattached the top ribbon cable. As a result the top plate dials, such as the mode control and live view button etc don't work. Had disconnected to avoid breaking the ribbon, as I'd heard it was fragile, but am now unable to connect the ribbon back. Huge waste of time, and I can't contribute if my aperture solenoid tweaking actually had a positive result Personally, for anyone else considering this, I don't necessarily think you need to disconnect either the cable or desolder the flash side wires either, to proceed further down and remove the front plate. When you say you found the FPC broken Plz elaborate. As far as the ribbon cable I broke mine cus I didnt disconnect it. Y ou should be able to slide it back it unless somehow you damage the socket. Use a magnifying glass and look for a tab usually white and slide it up put your ribbon in and push the tab back down.

07-20-2016, 01:43 AM	#183
richandfleur Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Palmerston North, New Zealand Photos: Albums Posts: 1,788	No the socket is damaged. Ribbon is fine, but cannot be seated correctly/reliably any more.

07-20-2016, 02:00 AM	#184
niceshot Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: NY Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,564	Originally posted by richandfleur No the socket is damaged. Ribbon is fine, but cannot be seated correctly/reliably any more. did the tab get ruined? some times the things are tricky. I had one where you couldnt tell it was connected but it was.

07-20-2016, 02:43 AM	#185
richandfleur Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Palmerston North, New Zealand Photos: Albums Posts: 1,788	There is a tiny 1mm section that has come off the socket. The socket is broken and the cable can no longer align or seat properly. Which rather stuffs it, but is a lesson at least for others.

07-20-2016, 02:58 AM	#186
mt92 New Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Posts: 3	I have been reading this after be thoroughly disgusted by the lack of support for this known problem by Pentax. Last nigh I decided to take my K-50 apart and have a look(nothing to loose). I noticed the electro magnet on the right side of the lens and I wiggled the white gear. The camera will work after doing this but only for a few hours then it quiets again. I assume I need to replace the motor in the link above? Thanks Mike

07-20-2016, 03:14 AM	#187
richandfleur Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Palmerston North, New Zealand Photos: Albums Posts: 1,788	I just say the whole thing could have been handled better for sure. All brands have issues, but it's what they do about it that counts. I feel the same when I read of other brands brining new features and capabilities to their products years later via free firmware upgrades...

07-20-2016, 01:01 PM	#188
mt92 New Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Posts: 3	So if I replace the motor with the one above will that take care of it?

07-20-2016, 02:51 PM	#189
niceshot Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: NY Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,564	Originally posted by mt92 So if I replace the motor with the one above will that take care of it? It is a major job, to get to that aperture motor,. First you need to disassemble it all the way down to the mirror box. That means the t100 board has to come off followed by the shake reduction block followed by the shutter block and remove the battery compartment and then raise the mirror by giving the motor 2 volts and then carefully removing the aperture block and whilist you are there just replace the whole damn thing along with the shutter. unless you like these little hobbies, it is best to avoid it and leave well enough alone. Also you better be an expert micro solderer.

07-20-2016, 07:18 PM	#190
Nakedgun Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Southwest Posts: 1,365	Originally posted by niceshot It is a major job, to get to that aperture motor,. First you need to disassemble it all the way down to the mirror box. That means the t100 board has to come off followed by the shake reduction block followed by the shutter block and remove the battery compartment and then raise the mirror by giving the motor 2 volts and then carefully removing the aperture block and whilist you are there just replace the whole damn thing along with the shutter. unless you like these little hobbies, it is best to avoid it and leave well enough alone. Also you better be an expert micro solderer. I'd say replacing my V-8 timing belt a blindfold job, by comparison.

07-21-2016, 02:55 AM	#191
mt92 New Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Posts: 3	Does working on the magnetic latch as illustrated in the beginning of this thread do any good?

07-22-2016, 12:13 PM	#192
JoseFF Site Supporter Join Date: Feb 2016 Posts: 184	Those of you who have had this kind of problems with your K30/50...please click on the link to answer the poll https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/151-pentax-k-30-k-50/325832-poll-establis...re-issues.html

07-25-2016, 10:30 AM - 2 Likes	#194
reduno Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Central NY, USA Posts: 965	Originally posted by mt92 Does working on the magnetic latch as illustrated in the beginning of this thread do any good? I have been looking at the aperture mechanism on a K-x (model I currently have with the covers off). It looks like the horseshoe solenoid referred to at the beginning of this thread is used to stop the aperture from closing down when the mirror motor is activated. I was experimenting using manual (M) mode and a long shutter time (in seconds). If I set the aperture to the maximum value for the lens, the solenoid actuates immediately and the gear that drives the aperture lever does not turn when the mirror flips up. If I set a smaller aperture the solenoid activation looks to be delayed, and the gear turns part way to step the aperture down. Looking at the the photos of the aperture mechanism in the thread https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/189-repairs-warranty-service/325334-k-30-...iy-repair.html it looks like the gear set include a rotation sensor (disc with holes in last photo) that could detect how far the aperture has opened. The lever may then be stopped at the required aperture by actuating the solenoid. If the solenoid is sticking (or being held in place by magnetization of the core) it looks quite possible that the aperture would always close all the way down. Looking around the web, it appears the same basic design was also used back on the auto focus film cameras prior to the *ist D.

07-25-2016, 12:36 PM	#195
niceshot Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: NY Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,564	Originally posted by reduno I have been looking at the aperture mechanism on a K-x (model I currently have with the covers off). It looks like the horseshoe solenoid referred to at the beginning of this thread is used to stop the aperture from closing down when the mirror motor is activated. I was experimenting using manual (M) mode and a long shutter time (in seconds). If I set the aperture to the maximum value for the lens, the solenoid actuates immediately and the gear that drives the aperture lever does not turn when the mirror flips up. If I set a smaller aperture the solenoid activation looks to be delayed, and the gear turns part way to step the aperture down. Looking at the the photos of the aperture mechanism in the thread https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/189-repairs-warranty-service/325334-k-30-...iy-repair.html it looks like the gear set include a rotation sensor (disc with holes in last photo) that could detect how far the aperture has opened. The lever may then be stopped at the required aperture by actuating the solenoid. If the solenoid is sticking (or being held in place by magnetization of the core) it looks quite possible that the aperture would always close all the way down. Looking around the web, it appears the same basic design was also used back on the auto focus film cameras prior to the *ist D. Nice observation, point noted.