Originally posted by toonpointnine By the way, this week I ordered a blue solenoid as a spare for the future (for the K30), about 15 minutes before I read your comment not to buy a blue one, as the impedance is wrong!
Never mind, when it arrives it will be good for practising my soldering!
Even if you would find it with the correct impedance:
The blue one is made by the same manufacturer in China as is the green one.
I had several of the blue ones here, 100% made in China
Originally posted by Tonistein The paper just to prevent the switch from moving back to original position. It won't jam the lens. I used this method for almost a year
Sure, but it will keep your lens in the wide open position only!
If you use a DA35/2,4 it can only meter f2,4 correct, any other values will go wrong. I tried it today, it was sheer disaster.
Also you force the aperture mechanism to work against a blocked diaphragm.
I would have to see about this with an open camera but actually, I don't see any sense in it.
Who wants to shoot always wide open?
Originally posted by West Penn Photogem, what specifically is the problem with the solenoid in the MZ5n, MZ30, or MZ60 that is can't be used? Just curious as I have a couple of MZ60's around.
I corrected my post. It is the 5n which is not working, the others can have wrong polarity, not always, but if so, it is a bit time consuming and one has to know that if the camera applies the voltage to such a solenoid with wrong connection the force of the magnetic hold is even stronger instead of a release.
One should check polarisation prior soldering in in with for example 2 x CR2 3V batteries in series so they give you the needed 6Volts.
All this plus the work of dismantling an old body is not worth the work when I can buy a 100% checked and working solenoid.