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12-08-2016, 01:13 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
This is an unusual recommendation. The screw drive versions of the 55-300 are f/4 at the short end and f/5.8 at the long end. Typically few would suggest that this is a good choice for a low light lens.

Photography has 3 basic Necessities Shutter Speed , Aperture, And Film Speed (ISO) . If you limit yourself to Less than all 3 you are going get jammed and Photography will become a Disaster for you.


In 50 years of Photography I have very seldom used an aperture larger than f5.8 ( the Stars maybe on occasion) I use an aperture in the f8 -f11 range for about 80 - 90% of my pictures. I use Shutter Speed and more recently with DSLR ISO to take low light along with Aperture.
I love the starring affect of the f5.8 - f11 in low light with artificial and natural light sources.
Using All the Basics over the years as an amateur and sometimes a semi-pro I have sold pics all over the World and even did work for the Largest Oil Co in the World but due to Health restrictions the last decades I can no longer Crawl around in the Evening Glow as much as I would like to.


Correction: Where ever I used Low Light read : Low/No light





Last edited by honey bo bo; 12-08-2016 at 01:30 PM.
12-08-2016, 01:21 PM - 1 Like   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by robc009 Quote
Hello!
I'm new to these forums, and I've been considering buying a Pentax K50 as my first DSLR camera. Is the K50 good at low light photography? I'd love to see your low light photos! if you could mention which lens you used that would be great too!
You already received a lot of good advice. Let me share another angle.

For low light to very-low light photography, you need to use a fast lens: i.e., a lens with large aperture (or low f number) like f1.8 to f1.4. A fast lens let me light into the sensor and allows you to use lower ISO.

Let me share a personal experience. A few years ago, I was shooting at sunset with my K-7 with friends using Canikon. (The K-7 is well-known for good IQ at low ISO and poor IQ at ISO above 800. Simply not the best camera for low light.) When the light started to drop about 19:00, I used a fast lens (VL58mm f.14) on my K-7. My friends stopped to shoot about 19:20, the last one stopped at 19:30 although he was using an expensive Nikkon f2.8 sport lens. With my K-7, I was able to shoot until 19:50, and honestly my shots were more than decent until 19:45. The trick was the fast lens (f1.4).

There are a number of older fast Pentax lenses, some being excellent value, worth to consider.

Hope that the comment may help.
12-08-2016, 01:25 PM - 1 Like   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by honey bo bo Quote
I use an aperture in the f8 -f11 range for about 80 - 90% of my pictures. I use Shutter Speed and more recently with DSLR ISO to take low light along with Aperture.
I'm guessing you don't shoot a lot of gymnastics or dance? With three little girls, this is where I find myself all the time. And a tripod is no substitute for a fast lens and high ISO in those situations.

QuoteOriginally posted by robc009 Quote
oops! my mistake, I just had a quick check at the price and you're right, I'd probably get the DA 50 instead of the Sigma lens.
The 50mm is definitely a great value, but there's a big difference between 50mm and 30mm. On an APS-C camera 50mm is pretty much telephoto. When used indoors, you will often find yourself wishing you could back up more. The 50mm makes a great portrait lens, but for a normal lens for everyday use the Sigma 30mm is much more practical. And it still represents a good value. I don't know of a wider and faster autofocus lens that costs less.

Last edited by Edgar_in_Indy; 12-08-2016 at 01:31 PM.
12-08-2016, 01:40 PM   #19
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Why not look for one k5 series camera? from what i read its one of the best low loght cameras, not just pentax. i am a bit disaapointes that i did not afford a k5II s when it was available to buy new. i think you will not regret buying a flagship camera, once you hold it, you will not want to let go. find a low shutter one and enjoy it.

whatever you choose, remember that it takes time mastering a camera, and the satisfaction you get when all is in sync is priceless.

12-08-2016, 01:46 PM   #20
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The DA 35mm f2.4 is a great all around lens, more so than the 50mm. Reasonable if you're trying to do hand held night shooting.
12-08-2016, 02:09 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by honey bo bo Quote
Photography has 3 basic Necessities Shutter Speed , Aperture, And Film Speed (ISO) . If you limit yourself to Less than all 3 you are going get jammed and Photography will become a Disaster for you.


In 50 years of Photography I have very seldom used an aperture larger than f5.8 ( the Stars maybe on occasion) I use an aperture in the f8 -f11 range for about 80 - 90% of my pictures. I use Shutter Speed and more recently with DSLR ISO to take low light along with Aperture.
I love the starring affect of the f5.8 - f11 in low light with artificial and natural light sources.
Using All the Basics over the years as an amateur and sometimes a semi-pro I have sold pics all over the World and even did work for the Largest Oil Co in the World but due to Health restrictions the last decades I can no longer Crawl around in the Evening Glow as much as I would like to.


Correction: Where ever I used Low Light read : Low/No light


I may be misreading you but this seems condescending. I don't mean to be rude. Let me try to respond.

Shooting at the apertures mentioned without specifying the subject matter or ISO or shutter speed makes it very hard to put in context. I have been shooting for 45 years or thereabouts and I am happy to compare apples to apples.

I also will say that a fast lens may not be the answer. Sometimes the depth of field allowed by a fast lens is too small for even an action shot. The specifics are rather important.
12-08-2016, 02:10 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Edgar_in_Indy Quote
I'm guessing you don't shoot a lot of gymnastics or dance? With three little girls, this is where I find myself all the time. And a tripod is no substitute for a fast lens and high ISO in those situations.

The theme of this Thread is Low Light Photos (K50 & what Lens ?) the young fella is wanting some Ideas. If you read my blogs I assumed that is what I was talking about. You will see that I have Large Aperture Lenses in my signature. I use them for Macro, Portraiture,( Bokeh) low light (occasionally) and action Shots along with Shutter & ISO speed along with a multitude of gidgets & gadgets to take a picture. A lot of times I use a different configuration for the same photo. You left out Shutter Speed and I certainly hope this was unintentional.


My Pics speak for themselves. I try and have tried everything and still there is more.

12-08-2016, 02:40 PM   #23
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A new K-S2 may serve your needs with a higher performance than the K-30 or K-50. It is only about 70 more dollars than the K-50. I would recommend a camera with a top lcd monitor for reading settings, which the K-S2 does not have, but it does utilize the rear lcd monitor for that if that is alright with you.
12-08-2016, 02:53 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by honey bo bo Quote
Originally posted by UncleVanya This is an unusual recommendation. The screw drive versions of the 55-300 are f/4 at the short end and f/5.8 at the long end. Typically few would suggest that this is a good choice for a low light lens.
You are misreading me and if anyone is condescending the pre-quoted statement is condescending and arrogant. I don't think my methods or tools are unusual at all. I use all three of the Photographic Basics.Take a look at my Pics






"Shooting at the apertures mentioned without specifying the subject matter or ISO or shutter speed makes it very hard to put in context. I have been shooting for 45 years or thereabouts and I am happy to compare apples to apples.
I also will say that a fast lens may not be the answer. Sometimes the depth of field allowed by a fast lens is too small for even an action shot. The specifics are rather important."





If you want to compare Apples with Apples you'll have to broaden your Idea of a Large Aperture Lens (Larger than f4) is the only tool to take Low Light pics with and then re-read my blog.
I will not get into a 50 year analyses of my Pics and what methods I used to take said Pics. You'll have to take my word for it in the blogs and what success I had with those methods and the facts of what I use.
12-08-2016, 03:04 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by robc009 Quote
K50/K30 models having an aperture motor problem? Is this something I should be worried about?
YES, its more prevalent on K30 and so it should be because its been around 18-20 months longer....some of both those models will suffer the problem as time goes on.
I haven't owned a K30, but have owned two K50s( sold the back up when I got a K1, my friend shoots it now.) my girlfriend owns a K50.So my experience being exposed to 3 is of no failure.Not saying it wont happen though,its a chance all buyers take.


If I was buying a Pentax aspc right now, id consider the KS2 and the K70(which has the great features of other Pentax models)


If the budget is only enough for a K50, its a great camera.
12-08-2016, 03:07 PM - 1 Like   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by honey bo bo Quote
Photography has 3 basic Necessities Shutter Speed , Aperture, And Film Speed (ISO) . If you limit yourself to Less than all 3 you are going get jammed and Photography will become a Disaster for you.


In 50 years of Photography I have very seldom used an aperture larger than f5.8 ( the Stars maybe on occasion) I use an aperture in the f8 -f11 range for about 80 - 90% of my pictures. I use Shutter Speed and more recently with DSLR ISO to take low light along with Aperture.
I love the starring affect of the f5.8 - f11 in low light with artificial and natural light sources.
Using All the Basics over the years as an amateur and sometimes a semi-pro I have sold pics all over the World and even did work for the Largest Oil Co in the World but due to Health restrictions the last decades I can no longer Crawl around in the Evening Glow as much as I would like to.


Correction: Where ever I used Low Light read : Low/No light


I'm missing the link to your blog. I think you're missing a little info for the technique you're describing? Without details one would need to make assumptions, which won't help narrow in on what you're getting at. Regardless, for hand held shots, it is not very helpful advice to a new comer to stick to smaller apertures for low light night shots unless you specify that you're also setting up on a tripod or pushing your ISO way up, the later which may have untowards effects on image quality.
12-08-2016, 03:37 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by hcc Quote
I'd love to see your low light photos! if you could mention which lens you used that would be great too!

WHAT I SAID



QuoteOriginally posted by bobbotron Quote
I'm missing the link to your blog. I think you're missing a little info for the technique you're describing? Without details one would need to make assumptions, which won't help narrow in on what you're getting at. Regardless, for hand held shots

That's all he wanted out of me. You can go ahead and educate him on the Basics of Photography , The Tools to Use , The VariousTechniques to use etc. etc.
Lens & Pic and why! I'm done!
12-08-2016, 03:40 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by C_Jones Quote
A new K-S2 may serve your needs with a higher performance than the K-30 or K-50. It is only about 70 more dollars than the K-50. I would recommend a camera with a top lcd monitor for reading settings, which the K-S2 does not have, but it does utilize the rear lcd monitor for that if that is alright with you.
ok thanks! I've also been considering the Nikon D3300 or a pre-owned Nikon D7000
12-08-2016, 03:58 PM - 2 Likes   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by honey bo bo Quote
You are misreading me and if anyone is condescending the pre-quoted statement is condescending and arrogant. I don't think my methods or tools are unusual at all. I use all three of the Photographic Basics.Take a look at my Pics
You state that you shoot 80-90% at f/5.8 and greater and have no context given, then turn around and say look at my large aperture lenses and what I shoot. You can't have it both ways you can't say that something is low light and then not define what low light means to you and expect people to take the time to leave the site and find out what you mean. Your method of engaging in discussion is to attack us and drive traffic to your blog... no thank you. My response was far from condescending and I gave you the benefit of the doubt once - but your reply clarifies your intent. You have no intention in engaging in a meaningful discussion.
12-08-2016, 04:36 PM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by robc009 Quote
Hello!

I'm new to these forums, and I've been considering buying a Pentax K50 as my first DSLR camera. Is the K50 good at low light photography? I'd love to see your low light photos! if you could mention which lens you used that would be great too!
As in general photography and more so with low light photography we are still bound by DOF, motion and what is an acceptable level of noise. With this knowledge you must decide how to balance how these 3 items will have an impact how you take the photograph and the final image you hope capture. If you can stabilize the camera and use longer shutter speeds with a subject with very little movement using faster lens is not really needed.

K20d 16mm kit lens iso 100 F/5 1054sec
If this is what you are after then the need of faster lenses is not required

If your low light photography requires you to use faster shutter speeds then you have to make the decision whether or not to increase the iso or to use a larger aperture. If your choice is to use a higher iso then you are stuck with more noise in the image. If on the other hand you decide to use a larger aperture then you give up DOF.
There is also a way to increase the light by addition of an external light source but I would not consider this a low light photography.

K5 300mm F/2.8 @F/3.2 iso 800 120sec
For times like this it helps to have a body with better sensor performance for less noise and also the need for faster lenses for a reasonable shutter speed for the subject at hand
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