Originally posted by sys3175 Time to demagnetize your screwdriver, I'd say. This is no valid magnetization test, using two parts either of which may be magnetized, that's just ridiculous and if your expertise is on that level you should keep it to yourself.
Nonsense: If the plunger is made of material which can be magnetized ..... it will be attracted by a (yes, quite right..) magnetized tip of a screwdriver as well! That was the point!
But to bring that point closer to those really interested:
If you place the plunger of the green solenoid on a surface as well as the plunger of the white solenoid and you carefully move the tip of this very magnetized screwdriver (yes, you got that right, a magnetized tip of this very screwdriver!) then you can notice that you can come about 50% closer to the plunger of the white solenoid until it suddenly moves/clings to the screwdriver tip! Why? Very simply because the plunger of the green solenoid is magnetized more than the one of the white solenoid! So go figure!
Originally posted by sys3175 Your other statements still aren't helpful without links or sources.
Ah... and you have brought how many links or sources to this theme? Zero!
My statements are not helpful for you because you are not interested. Like this magnetized plunger is stuck to the tip of the very magnetized tip of the screwdriver you are stuck to opposition for the sake of opposition. And no, I am not hijacking threads. I put straight such faults like for example
faults in this post:
Because this person recommends solenoids from CD-Rom drives (which you did as well) and thus actually misleads others who don't know!
He mentions the different size of the magnet (giving them another holding-force) and he mentions a strange impedance of 15 ohms for the green K30 solenoid and 26 ohms for the CD Rom solenoid. Well, maybe this is due to the cheap (green) chinese multimeter he uses but I suspect he mixed up both values because the green K30 solenoid ALWAYS has 30 ohms!
But most Rom-solenoids 15 ohms. But in most cases they have this different holding force. And this is the very point. The wrong impedance and the different holding force can lead as much to further damage as does sanding the plunger of the green solenoid with I will proof with photos soon, the work is already done:
I have the whole aperture mechanism on my workbench and built the normal green solenoid, a green one with sanded plunger and the white Japan solenoid into it. The results are absolut clear as best clear spring water:
The plunger of the green solenoid not sanded tilts already quite clearly to the side!
More so the plunger of the sanded solenoid tilts
But the plunger of the white solenoid remains nice and straight!
Originally posted by sys3175 I've said what I've got to say and this is it for me....
we shall see
Originally posted by sys3175 I won't fall for your bait and go your way endlessly repeating myself. So EOD here.
There was never any discussion! There was just discursive arguing based on zero real investigation from your side.
Kind of "anti" for the sake of anti. But you falling for my bait.... c'mon, give us a break.... this is sandpit behaviour. Well, at least it matches the sanding-method.
So, to put this one straight as well, if you do some research, go the whole hog instead to remaining hooked in your anti-no-saying position: Originally posted by sys3175 There are no camera solenoids listed there
Good for the person who has eyes to read and investigates properly:
Of course Shinmei
manufactures solenoids for cameras and the mentioned solenoid is the very one used in the Pentax K30 etc.
I have purchased exactly these solenoids (from Shinmei!) and they are exactly the ones built into the Pentax cameras since the K100D (flash)
and K30 (aperture circuit)! Period!
But of course they are useless for repair, as they will fail again and have proofed to fail.
I purchased them for research.
I never would dare to use it in a Pentax DSLR. Sanded or "as it is".
As said this is going to lead to further damage and I have the proof and will later on publish it here in this forum!
The only important thing is how to do this the best way and this is what I always stood for in this forum.
Originally posted by reh321 This is one of the problems in using a 'stock' part ..... their definition of "improve" may be different than yours ..... and I'm guessing Pentax got no notice at all of any changes to "appearances and specifications".
Quite right
! And this was the reason I did not want the papers to be made public, because it is food for those Pentax bashers and food for those greedy for sensationalism. Sys3175 had only his hunger for sensationalism in mind. There was zero though about why not to publish it. Just the urge to "be important"..... look... I found it.. and I bring it forward to you all..
It was my stupid fault, I gave him the bait without realising, well... he snapped pretty quickly.
Originally posted by Not a Number I see they moved the manufacturing to Taiwan in 1973.
Which means the solenoids were made in Taiwan (China) as early as 1973, not Japan.
.... Solenoids made in Taiwan: Yes
the (Pentax) solenoid:
NO