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05-27-2017, 03:31 PM   #31
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Never mind. Had I actually read the directions, I would have answered my own question. Well into the process now.

05-27-2017, 05:46 PM   #32
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Done and camera seems to be functioning as normal again. Thank you for the instructions. They were very clear and easy to follow. Now, to get the k-50 solenoid into the *ist.

As far as keeping track of the screws, I took the advice of the clever gentleman in the video posted in the other thread. I took pictures of where I planned to remove screws, printed them and put two way tape at all the screw points to hold the screws as I removed them. It was time consuming to take apart, but easy peasy to put back together.
06-02-2017, 01:45 AM - 1 Like   #33
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Many thanks for your advice! It fixed "dark pictures problem" on my K-500. It may be helpful for someone who faced with it. I found a CD driver solenoid of which properly suitable for my camera. It costs about 8$ and you can find it on ebay for example. Unlike original parts, it's blue, but has the same (not reverse) holes. Its magnetic core is much stronger than original (maybe coil too). When I had tried to take back Pentax's solenoid to CD it refused to keep a latch closed.

CD driver model: GSA-T10N

Original solenoid(sorry for bad quality):


Replacement:
06-02-2017, 11:39 PM   #34
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I have already repaired the K-s1
| Zonerama.com

07-06-2017, 03:22 AM - 1 Like   #35
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Russian forum, but the video tutorial is not right
???????? ? ?30! - ?????? ?????-????? - ???????? 19
08-06-2017, 08:09 AM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by duves Quote
Russian forum, but the video tutorial is not right
???????? ? ?30! - ?????? ?????-????? - ???????? 19
Well, it is the easy and cheap way, which seems to work for at least some time.

What I find amazing in this video tutorial are two facts:

1. The guy leaves the front open instead of using the lid to close it so no dirt can hit the sensor, mirror and focusing screen.
2. He just files the horseshoe of the solenoid next to the camera! For gods sake, if any of this metal dust falls into the body, more damage will be the case. Not very professional but quite sloppy.

There are a few tutorials out there, this one is one of the best:

But again, I recommend to find the white "made in Japan" solenoid, because it work really reliable!
This is the way to go.

---------- Post added 08-06-17 at 08:12 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by duves Quote
I have already repaired the K-s1
| Zonerama.com
Would be good if you could post all steps as madphys the threadopener did.
08-07-2017, 10:54 AM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
Well, it is the easy and cheap way, which seems to work for at least some time.

What I find amazing in this video tutorial are two facts:

1. The guy leaves the front open instead of using the lid to close it so no dirt can hit the sensor, mirror and focusing screen.
2. He just files the horseshoe of the solenoid next to the camera! For gods sake, if any of this metal dust falls into the body, more damage will be the case. Not very professional but quite sloppy.

There are a few tutorials out there, this one is one of the best:
how to fix Pentax K50 and K30 with aperture problem - YouTube
Mechanical treatment is not reliable.
I know one more method. Unfortunately, I will not publish, it is brilliantly simple.
08-08-2017, 12:09 AM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by duves Quote
Mechanical treatment is not reliable.
I know one more method. Unfortunately, I will not publish, it is brilliantly simple.
Why won't you share this?
We all worked together in this and to help each other.

08-11-2017, 02:17 PM - 1 Like   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by duves Quote
Mechanical treatment is not reliable.
I know one more method. Unfortunately, I will not publish, it is brilliantly simple.
With only 4 posts it is a tall order for us to take this on Faith...
08-13-2017, 10:28 AM   #40
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Thanks for the pics!

Bought one of those solenoid plungers on eBay today. Need to go get a soldering iron now. Gonna attempt fixing my black K-50.
08-19-2017, 10:04 PM   #41
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OK! Fixed the black K-50! Took me about 3 hours or so from start to finish. I was really taking my time, though. The soldering part was the trickiest, but got through it. You definitely need to have some patience here. Thanks for providing the info & photos!
08-21-2017, 08:41 AM   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
With only 4 posts it is a tall order for us to take this on Faith...
Yes, only 4 posts, and 23 repair body k-30/k-50, 1 body k-s1. And how about you?
08-21-2017, 02:21 PM   #43
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QuoteOriginally posted by duves Quote
Yes, only 4 posts, and 23 repair body k-30/k-50, 1 body k-s1. And how about you?
Unless you explain your method, no one will - or should - believe you.

08-23-2017, 04:51 AM   #44
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Solenoids in earlier Pentax bodies

Recently I had to open a K x for repair and noticed to my surprise, that the solenoid responsible for the pop-up flash is the late green version!

So I was allowed to open a K m (K2000) and a K200D (from friends):

Both have this green solenoid sitting there doing its job for the pop-up flash.

The solenoid for the aparture mechanism is the white version.

So from 2008 onwards (Introduction of the K200D) at least one will only find the green solenoid there!

I wonder why Pentax used the white made in Japan Solenoid in those bodies for the aparture and the green version
for the (easier) job of the pop-up flash

and later went for the green version throughout!?

So the green solenoid was used at this place in

K200D, K m (K2000), K x and thus.... must be... the K r
08-24-2017, 12:32 AM   #45
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Almost unused Pentax K30 developed Aperture failure: Shuttercount 489

In Germany the "youngest", i.e. almost unused Pentax K30 developed the aperture failure.

Only 489 shutter actuations.

What the heck could this be?

Last edited by photogem; 12-12-2017 at 01:37 PM.
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