K-50 / K-500 Aperture Solenoid fix (DIY with pics)

aezarien · 05-27-2017, 03:31 PM

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Never mind. Had I actually read the directions, I would have answered my own question. Well into the process now.

aezarien · 05-27-2017, 05:46 PM

Done and camera seems to be functioning as normal again. Thank you for the instructions. They were very clear and easy to follow. Now, to get the k-50 solenoid into the *ist.

As far as keeping track of the screws, I took the advice of the clever gentleman in the video posted in the other thread. I took pictures of where I planned to remove screws, printed them and put two way tape at all the screw points to hold the screws as I removed them. It was time consuming to take apart, but easy peasy to put back together.

sercher · 06-02-2017, 01:45 AM - **1 Like**

Many thanks for your advice! It fixed "dark pictures problem" on my K-500. It may be helpful for someone who faced with it. I found a CD driver solenoid of which properly suitable for my camera. It costs about 8$ and you can find it on ebay for example. Unlike original parts, it's blue, but has the same (not reverse) holes. Its magnetic core is much stronger than original (maybe coil too). When I had tried to take back Pentax's solenoid to CD it refused to keep a latch closed.

CD driver model: GSA-T10N

Original solenoid(sorry for bad quality):

Replacement:

duves · 06-02-2017, 11:39 PM

I have already repaired the K-s1
| Zonerama.com

duves · 07-06-2017, 03:22 AM - **1 Like**

Russian forum, but the video tutorial is not right
???????? ? ?30! - ?????? ?????-????? - ???????? 19

**photogem** · 08-06-2017, 08:09 AM

Originally posted by duves

Russian forum, but the video tutorial is not right
???????? ? ?30! - ?????? ?????-????? - ???????? 19

Well, it is the easy and cheap way, which seems to work for at least some time.

What I find amazing in this video tutorial are two facts:

1. The guy leaves the front open instead of using the lid to close it so no dirt can hit the sensor, mirror and focusing screen.
2. He just files the horseshoe of the solenoid next to the camera! For gods sake, if any of this metal dust falls into the body, more damage will be the case. Not very professional but quite sloppy.

There are a few tutorials out there, this one is one of the best:

You Tube

But again, I recommend to find the white "made in Japan" solenoid, because it work really reliable!
This is the way to go.

---------- Post added 08-06-17 at 08:12 AM ----------

Originally posted by duves

I have already repaired the K-s1
| Zonerama.com

Would be good if you could post all steps as madphys the threadopener did.

duves · 08-07-2017, 10:54 AM

Originally posted by photogem

Well, it is the easy and cheap way, which seems to work for at least some time.

What I find amazing in this video tutorial are two facts:

1. The guy leaves the front open instead of using the lid to close it so no dirt can hit the sensor, mirror and focusing screen.
2. He just files the horseshoe of the solenoid next to the camera! For gods sake, if any of this metal dust falls into the body, more damage will be the case. Not very professional but quite sloppy.

There are a few tutorials out there, this one is one of the best:
how to fix Pentax K50 and K30 with aperture problem - YouTube

Mechanical treatment is not reliable.
I know one more method. Unfortunately, I will not publish, it is brilliantly simple.

**photogem** · 08-08-2017, 12:09 AM

Originally posted by duves

Mechanical treatment is not reliable.
I know one more method. Unfortunately, I will not publish, it is brilliantly simple.

Why won't you share this?
We all worked together in this and to help each other.

**UncleVanya** · 08-11-2017, 02:17 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by duves

Mechanical treatment is not reliable.
I know one more method. Unfortunately, I will not publish, it is brilliantly simple.

With only 4 posts it is a tall order for us to take this on Faith...

The Squirrel Mafia · 08-13-2017, 10:28 AM

Thanks for the pics!

Bought one of those solenoid plungers on eBay today. Need to go get a soldering iron now. Gonna attempt fixing my black K-50.

The Squirrel Mafia · 08-19-2017, 10:04 PM

OK! Fixed the black K-50! Took me about 3 hours or so from start to finish. I was really taking my time, though. The soldering part was the trickiest, but got through it. You definitely need to have some patience here. Thanks for providing the info & photos!

duves · 08-21-2017, 08:41 AM

Originally posted by UncleVanya

With only 4 posts it is a tall order for us to take this on Faith...

Yes, only 4 posts, and 23 repair body k-30/k-50, 1 body k-s1. And how about you?

**clackers** · 08-21-2017, 02:21 PM

Originally posted by duves

Yes, only 4 posts, and 23 repair body k-30/k-50, 1 body k-s1. And how about you?

Unless you explain your method, no one will - or should - believe you.

**photogem** · 08-23-2017, 04:51 AM

Recently I had to open a K x for repair and noticed to my surprise, that the solenoid responsible for the pop-up flash is the late green version!

So I was allowed to open a K m (K2000) and a K200D (from friends):

Both have this green solenoid sitting there doing its job for the pop-up flash.

The solenoid for the aparture mechanism is the white version.

So from 2008 onwards (Introduction of the K200D) at least one will only find the green solenoid there!

I wonder why Pentax used the white made in Japan Solenoid in those bodies for the aparture and the green version
for the (easier) job of the pop-up flash

and later went for the green version throughout!?

So the green solenoid was used at this place in

K200D, K m (K2000), K x and thus.... must be... the K r

**photogem** · 08-24-2017, 12:32 AM

In Germany the "youngest", i.e. almost unused Pentax K30 developed the aperture failure.

Only 489 shutter actuations.

What the heck could this be?

08-23-2017, 04:51 AM	#44
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,520	Solenoids in earlier Pentax bodies Recently I had to open a K x for repair and noticed to my surprise, that the solenoid responsible for the pop-up flash is the late green version! So I was allowed to open a K m (K2000) and a K200D (from friends): Both have this green solenoid sitting there doing its job for the pop-up flash. The solenoid for the aparture mechanism is the white version. So from 2008 onwards (Introduction of the K200D) at least one will only find the green solenoid there! I wonder why Pentax used the white made in Japan Solenoid in those bodies for the aparture and the green version for the (easier) job of the pop-up flash and later went for the green version throughout!? So the green solenoid was used at this place in K200D, K m (K2000), K x and thus.... must be... the K r

08-24-2017, 12:32 AM	#45
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,520	Almost unused Pentax K30 developed Aperture failure: Shuttercount 489 In Germany the "youngest", i.e. almost unused Pentax K30 developed the aperture failure. Only 489 shutter actuations. What the heck could this be? Last edited by photogem; 12-12-2017 at 01:37 PM.

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05-27-2017, 03:31 PM	#31
aezarien New Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Shelby, North Carolina Posts: 10	Staff note: This post may contain affiliate links, which means Pentax Forums may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. If you would like to support the forum directly, you may also make a donation here. Never mind. Had I actually read the directions, I would have answered my own question. Well into the process now.

05-27-2017, 05:46 PM	#32
aezarien New Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Shelby, North Carolina Posts: 10	Done and camera seems to be functioning as normal again. Thank you for the instructions. They were very clear and easy to follow. Now, to get the k-50 solenoid into the *ist. As far as keeping track of the screws, I took the advice of the clever gentleman in the video posted in the other thread. I took pictures of where I planned to remove screws, printed them and put two way tape at all the screw points to hold the screws as I removed them. It was time consuming to take apart, but easy peasy to put back together.

06-02-2017, 01:45 AM - 1 Like	#33
sercher New Member Join Date: Jun 2017 Posts: 1	Many thanks for your advice! It fixed "dark pictures problem" on my K-500. It may be helpful for someone who faced with it. I found a CD driver solenoid of which properly suitable for my camera. It costs about 8$ and you can find it on ebay for example. Unlike original parts, it's blue, but has the same (not reverse) holes. Its magnetic core is much stronger than original (maybe coil too). When I had tried to take back Pentax's solenoid to CD it refused to keep a latch closed. CD driver model: GSA-T10N Original solenoid(sorry for bad quality): Replacement:

06-02-2017, 11:39 PM	#34
duves Banned Join Date: Mar 2017 Posts: 6	I have already repaired the K-s1 \| Zonerama.com

07-06-2017, 03:22 AM - 1 Like	#35
duves Banned Join Date: Mar 2017 Posts: 6	Russian forum, but the video tutorial is not right ???????? ? ?30! - ?????? ?????-????? - ???????? 19

08-07-2017, 10:54 AM	#37
duves Banned Join Date: Mar 2017 Posts: 6	Originally posted by photogem Well, it is the easy and cheap way, which seems to work for at least some time. What I find amazing in this video tutorial are two facts: 1. The guy leaves the front open instead of using the lid to close it so no dirt can hit the sensor, mirror and focusing screen. 2. He just files the horseshoe of the solenoid next to the camera! For gods sake, if any of this metal dust falls into the body, more damage will be the case. Not very professional but quite sloppy. There are a few tutorials out there, this one is one of the best: how to fix Pentax K50 and K30 with aperture problem - YouTube Mechanical treatment is not reliable. I know one more method. Unfortunately, I will not publish, it is brilliantly simple.

08-08-2017, 12:09 AM	#38
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,520	Originally posted by duves Mechanical treatment is not reliable. I know one more method. Unfortunately, I will not publish, it is brilliantly simple. Why won't you share this? We all worked together in this and to help each other.

08-11-2017, 02:17 PM - 1 Like	#39
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,401	Originally posted by duves Mechanical treatment is not reliable. I know one more method. Unfortunately, I will not publish, it is brilliantly simple. With only 4 posts it is a tall order for us to take this on Faith...

08-13-2017, 10:28 AM	#40
The Squirrel Mafia Pentaxian Join Date: Jan 2015 Posts: 3,054	Thanks for the pics! Bought one of those solenoid plungers on eBay today. Need to go get a soldering iron now. Gonna attempt fixing my black K-50.

08-19-2017, 10:04 PM	#41
The Squirrel Mafia Pentaxian Join Date: Jan 2015 Posts: 3,054	OK! Fixed the black K-50! Took me about 3 hours or so from start to finish. I was really taking my time, though. The soldering part was the trickiest, but got through it. You definitely need to have some patience here. Thanks for providing the info & photos!

08-21-2017, 08:41 AM	#42
duves Banned Join Date: Mar 2017 Posts: 6	Originally posted by UncleVanya With only 4 posts it is a tall order for us to take this on Faith... Yes, only 4 posts, and 23 repair body k-30/k-50, 1 body k-s1. And how about you?

08-21-2017, 02:21 PM	#43
clackers Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Melbourne Photos: Albums Posts: 16,397	Originally posted by duves Yes, only 4 posts, and 23 repair body k-30/k-50, 1 body k-s1. And how about you? Unless you explain your method, no one will - or should - believe you.