Look, it is not really about arguing and who is wrong or right. Because then it would be a personal thing, which I am not interested in nor the user who hopes for help.
Many times I have written about how to
discharge the photoflash capacitor .
I have worked for decades with high-voltage audio-and recordingstudio equipment (i.e. tube/valve equipment) and I know about the characteristics of electrolytic (and other) capacitors.
We have particularely used photoflash-capacitors in regions where this very fast charging was important. If a capacitor discharges very fast and powerful (which is the aim of a photoflash capacitor!) it also will charge very fast, that is its nature/design!
So when I give this kind of advice it is for the safety of the user and... in this case for the safety of the camera!
Because some have damaged their K-30/K-50's when they neglected this condensor!
The way you do it there is the (verified!) risk that there is resitual voltage. Particular on the K-30/K-50/K-500 you can touch a part on the board which where you don't expect high voltage, but it is right there (marked red):
So it is not about
:
*WHO* is right or wrong ..... but it is about
*WHAT* is right and wrong!
This makes a huge difference. I don't measure anymore the voltage of the flash-condensor because I don't need to. I built myself a little help-device with a 60W light-bulb:
This I also use for discharging electrolytic capacitors used on tube-amplifiers or studio-equipment with tubes. Because the 240V/60W lightbulb is sensitive, I wrapped some material around it to protect it, doesn't look very elegant but it works well.
When you replace the solenoid you anyway have the body open! So it is easy and straight forward to discharge the capacitor:
When the condensor is fully charged it illuminates, a very powerful light!
But sometimes I believe "ah... now the condensor should be discharged" I still do this little extra step and discharge it with this device and in many cases I was wrong,
there was some residual-voltage and the bulb illuminated but shorter!
The voltage is still strong enough to give you a shock, particular when you believe there is no voltage anymore!
If you then due to this sudden shock drop the camera or ... more likely:
... if while unscrewing of soldering the solenoid receive this shock and slip of the screw or worse, the pins and touch other parts of the camera with the hot tip of your soldering-iron: You might do some very stupid damage to your camera!
You want to avoid this and for that reason you don't apply half-hearted methods!
If you don't want to discharge the photoflash capacitor with a lightbulb, a resistor or a voltmeter (the latter takes much to long time and most don't have old-style analog voltmeters anymore, only those would work!)
... then do it the passive but correct way and
just take the battery out, wait 24 hours or a bit longer and then the capacitor is discharged.