[reh321]

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Here's a rather sad update on my K-50 that I started this thread about...apparently, the solenoid has completely failed now.
It had been giving me dark pictures on the first image taken, then okay on the rest. But today, while testing before I used it for a shoot, I got nothing but dark images on 22 out of 22 taken.
I tried on my kit lens 18-55, all dark.
I tried on my Sigma telephoto with an aperture ring and an A setting and got mixed results. With the A setting on, the meter seems to work, and gives me recommended settings, but every picture was almost if not completely dark. Using the actual aperture ring to set the aperture, it worked correctly, but the meter doesn't work. So while I can make an educated 'guess' about what the settings should be, it severely handicaps the camera in my opinion.

I guess it'd still be good for long time exposure astrophotography! But other than that, it seems to be a totally manual camera but without an exposure meter. Unless, I keep switching from A mode, back to manual aperture mode, which would be a real pain in the gluteus maximus!

Yes, that does seem to happen - over time it goes from first image dark to all images dark. Manual metering is simpler than you have been doing - you need to use so-called "green button metering", as explain in the article

How to use/meter Manual & M42 Lenses on all Pentax DSLRs (K-1, K-3, K-5, K-30, etc) - PentaxForums.com

You will need to perform the setup task described in the paragraph which starts "important" (third paragraph after photo of a ring adapter} and then steps 1,2,3,5 below it.

[Astronomersmith]

Yes, that does seem to happen - over time it goes from first image dark to all images dark. Manual metering is simpler than you have been doing - you need to use so-called "green button metering", as explain in the article

How to use/meter Manual & M42 Lenses on all Pentax DSLRs (K-1, K-3, K-5, K-30, etc) - PentaxForums.com

You will need to perform the setup task described in the paragraph which starts "important" (third paragraph after photo of a ring adapter} and then steps 1,2,3,5 below it.

Thank you for the reference source about green button metering. I'll definitely be checking it out. I wouldn't mind the handicapped camera nearly as much if I can get a meter reading on it. That will make a big difference, and makes me feel a little better. I usually used manual mode most of the time anyway, even when the camera aperture was working properly.


Scott

[onlineflyer]

Thank you for the reference source about green button metering. I'll definitely be checking it out. I wouldn't mind the handicapped camera nearly as much if I can get a meter reading on it. That will make a big difference, and makes me feel a little better. I usually used manual mode most of the time anyway, even when the camera aperture was working properly.
Scott

Handicapped camera? Ha. I have a K-5iis that does not have aperture block problem but I still shoot in 'M' mode because I like manual control and, also, inexpensive, high quality lenses. Pick up a M 50/1.7, M 100/2.8 and M 200/4 in that order. You'll be good to go.

[Astronomersmith]

Handicapped camera? Ha. I have a K-5iis that does not have aperture block problem but I still shoot in 'M' mode because I like manual control and, also, inexpensive, high quality lenses. Pick up a M 50/1.7, M 100/2.8 and M 200/4 in that order. You'll be good to go.

Yeah, well, isn't it handicapped? If a thing can't do something it was made to do, that's kind of handicapped to me. Maybe that isn't a properly descriptive word, nor politically correct term to use. Let me rephrase my choice of words. How does "aperture challenged" camera sound? <grin>


While it has lost some functionality (I guess my kit lenses with no aperture ring are useless on it now?), I won't be using it as a casual touristy, point and shoot anymore, but it will still get used. I'll just have to break out my old glass and dust them off and hope they still work! After sitting in a drawer for 25+ years, maybe they'll be alright? A couple I have were last used on my old K1000 and ME Super. They were good then, I hope they still are. I may give a report whenever I get around to testing them.


Scott

[onlineflyer]

Perhaps electronically challenged. Didn't mean anything negative by my comment, was just trying to point out the camera is still functional, in a more limited way.

[UncleVanya]

I'll just have to break out my old glass and dust them off and hope they still work! After sitting in a drawer for 25+ years, maybe they'll be alright? A couple I have were last used on my old K1000 and ME Super. They were good then, I hope they still are. I may give a report whenever I get around to testing them.

If they have sat unused for that long they may have fungus or dried grease. But try them. You may be surprised! The focus rings may be stiffer than you like but if they haven't been moist they probably are fine.

[altopiet]

Here's a rather sad update on my K-50 that I started this thread about...apparently, the solenoid has completely failed now.
It had been giving me dark pictures on the first image taken, then okay on the rest. But today, while testing before I used it for a shoot, I got nothing but dark images on 22 out of 22 taken.
I tried on my kit lens 18-55, all dark.
I tried on my Sigma telephoto with an aperture ring and an A setting and got mixed results. With the A setting on, the meter seems to work, and gives me recommended settings, but every picture was almost if not completely dark. Using the actual aperture ring to set the aperture, it worked correctly, but the meter doesn't work. So while I can make an educated 'guess' about what the settings should be, it severely handicaps the camera in my opinion.


I guess it'd still be good for long time exposure astrophotography! But other than that, it seems to be a totally manual camera but without an exposure meter. Unless, I keep switching from A mode, back to manual aperture mode, which would be a real pain in the gluteus maximus!


I looked and saw an ad for a repair shop in California, for $100 plus shipping/insurance to and from them. I found out that'd be an extra $60. So, decision time...is a 4 year old camera worth $160?


I see used and/or refurbished ones being advertised in the $250 to $450 range...but I could get one of those and then have this exact same problem! I think I paid around $500 or so brand new, 4 years ago, so I am thinking about it, but leaning to not fixing it, or possibly getting a different camera. I'd be open to suggestions.


Thanks for any input.


Scott

Have a look and make sure you don't buy another Pentax with potentially the same problem Pentax Aperture Block Failure Survey Results - Articles and Tips | PentaxForums.com

It seems as if the KP might be a good bet, and if I'm not mistaken they are at very decent price levels at the moment, or is the BF specials over....?

[photogem]

Yeah, well, isn't it handicapped? If a thing can't do something it was made to do, that's kind of handicapped to me. Maybe that isn't a properly descriptive word, nor politically correct term to use. Let me rephrase my choice of words. How does "aperture challenged" camera sound? <grin>


While it has lost some functionality (I guess my kit lenses with no aperture ring are useless on it now?), I won't be using it as a casual touristy, point and shoot anymore, but it will still get used. I'll just have to break out my old glass and dust them off and hope they still work! After sitting in a drawer for 25+ years, maybe they'll be alright? A couple I have were last used on my old K1000 and ME Super. They were good then, I hope they still are. I may give a report whenever I get around to testing them.


Scott

Handicapped it is indeed, otherwise ... if just M-Mode would be interesting, you would have purchased a different camera.

With the same sensor for just M-Mode the K5 would be the better option.

Anyway, dare to go for a repair. Get the white solenoid and DIY and you have saved a lot of money for a then great camera which will function great for many more years with that low shuttercount.

I would not get it repaired by one of those repair places because they use the green solenoid and often those repaired bodys failed soon again, usually just after the 1 year warranty.
The guy in California most likely sands the plunger, which is not a good solution, at least on long term.

Try it and you will be proud having done it.
It is actually peanuts!

[reh321]

Have a look and make sure you don't buy another Pentax with potentially the same problem Pentax Aperture Block Failure Survey Results - Articles and Tips | PentaxForums.com

It seems as if the KP might be a good bet, and if I'm not mistaken they are at very decent price levels at the moment, or is the BF specials over....?

The deals ended on Monday

[reh321]

If they have sat unused for that long they may have fungus or dried grease. But try them. You may be surprised! The focus rings may be stiffer than you like but if they haven't been moist they probably are fine.

My A 50mm f/1.7 sat in my closet for the 20 years I was a Canon user. When I purchased my K-30, I got it out and discovered it is the sharpest lens I own. I used it occasionally - my style has evolved to zoom lenses and wider focal lengths - and then the lubricant hardened, so now the focus ring won't go the last little bit - although infinity is still included in DOF at f/5.6 or narrower.

[Astronomersmith]

Handicapped it is indeed, otherwise ... if just M-Mode would be interesting, you would have purchased a different camera.

With the same sensor for just M-Mode the K5 would be the better option.

Anyway, dare to go for a repair. Get the white solenoid and DIY and you have saved a lot of money for a then great camera which will function great for many more years with that low shuttercount.

I would not get it repaired by one of those repair places because they use the green solenoid and often those repaired bodys failed soon again, usually just after the 1 year warranty.
The guy in California most likely sands the plunger, which is not a good solution, at least on long term.

Try it and you will be proud having done it.
It is actually peanuts!

I might try the repair. Either that, or just get me a cheap 28-80 non DA lens? I've seen several on KEH's site for $30-$70 range with fair to good reviews.


If I go the repair route...how do I know what I'm getting on Ebay? I looked and found a bunch of solenoids, the pictures all look like they are green instead of white? And, another question...why are the prices ranging from $10 to nearly $50? Is it safe to "assume" the higher the price the better the part?


Scott

[reh321]

I might try the repair. Either that, or just get me a cheap 28-80 non DA lens? I've seen several on KEH's site for $30-$70 range with fair to good reviews.


If I go the repair route...how do I know what I'm getting on Ebay? I looked and found a bunch of solenoids, the pictures all look like they are green instead of white? And, another question...why are the prices ranging from $10 to nearly $50? Is it safe to "assume" the higher the price the better the part?


Scott

On something like eBay, you cannot assume that price means anything other than the seller's ambition.

This seller says the right things, and his pictures do look like good product.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pentax-K-30-K-50-K-S1-S2-K-500-Genuine-Aperture-Sol...trksid=p206035

[photogem]

On something like eBay, you cannot assume that price means anything other than the seller's ambition.

This seller says the right things, and his pictures do look like good product.
Pentax K-30 K-50 K-S1/S2 K-500 Genuine Aperture Solenoid Plunger Part - Japan - | eBay

This is the only right one on ebay.com!

The price is absolutly fine, the seller is a professional, took them out of one from safe defunct k x and k r bodys were other parts are more or less worthless,
so he gets 2 solenoids out of each, tests them and makes a profit, pays tax, nothing wrong with it.

I took for a while the road to buying MZ's but more than 50% came across solenoids with opposite polarisation.
The Kx, Kr, K2000, K200D and K100D are safe but here in Europe 90% of Kx/r/2000's have the green solenoid in the flash compartment. About 50% of all K100D

and K200D. K10D and K20D have anyway just one. Also those are often heavely used and have very high shuttercount until they brake down so I avoided them.

So the price is maybe a bit high but safe.


I got two from him and all worked perfect and still do!

Forget all the green ones, those are for sure Chinese fireworks