Manual solenoid replacement Pentax K30 / Discharge flash-condenser / Solenoid choice

**photogem** · 11-06-2019, 09:39 AM

Originally posted by naatti

Thank you very much for the excellent description!
I had to change the solenoid on a Pentax K-70. The replacement was a complete success. I encourage anyone who has the technical know-how and installation experience not to be afraid to replace it. Best regards, everyone! Attila

Well done and congratulations!

And too bad that it seems to happen a bit more now with the K70.

naatti · 11-07-2019, 01:42 AM

Originally posted by photogem

Well done and congratulations!

And too bad that it seems to happen a bit more now with the K70.

Thank you for the praise, yes, unfortunately it was a bad surprise for me too. At two years old, the Pentax should pay more attention to quality because of such a long-standing bug. I don't understand how to pass on an obvious mistake from generation to generation.
Sincerely, Attila

nocturnal · 11-07-2019, 06:22 AM - **2 Likes**

Replaced my K-30 with a K-70 last December, last night I got out the K-30 to try it after it sat dormant and it has the aperture problem.

I never use it but feel the need to fix it, might look for a broken old DSLR to get the white solenoid. I'm well adept working with electronics.

The cheap chinese garbage solenoids on ebay aren't worth taking the camera apart nor are they worth the money. I couldn't sell a camera on with one of those in it...

"Principles is principles"

**photogem** · 11-07-2019, 02:09 PM - **1 Like**

Good attitude! Plus: the K-30 is still worth it. Of course the K-70 is better but the K30 was one of the best in handling.

naatti · 11-08-2019, 02:30 AM

Originally posted by nocturnal

Replaced my K-30 with a K-70 last December, last night I got out the K-30 to try it after it sat dormant and it has the aperture problem.

I never use it but feel the need to fix it, might look for a broken old DSLR to get the white solenoid. I'm well adept working with electronics.

The cheap chinese garbage solenoids on ebay aren't worth taking the camera apart nor are they worth the money. I couldn't sell a camera on with one of those in it...

"Principles is principles"

Bravo! I wish everyone was like this! We would live in a different world.

reh321 · 11-08-2019, 12:40 PM

Originally posted by naatti

Thank you for the praise, yes, unfortunately it was a bad surprise for me too. At two years old, the Pentax should pay more attention to quality because of such a long-standing bug. I don't understand how to pass on an obvious mistake from generation to generation.
Sincerely, Attila

Those who have opened both cameras tell us that the design has changed - the K-70 has this problem much less often than the K-30/50 did. The system passes testing at the time it is made, but it ages in such a way that they sometimes fail as they get older. My "Super Program" that I purchased in 1983 still have a working aperture control system, so the solenoid can age appropriately, but apparently the recent ones do not.

nocturnal · 11-09-2019, 10:10 AM

Originally posted by photogem

Good attitude! Plus: the K-30 is still worth it. Of course the K-70 is better but the K30 was one of the best in handling.

Yesterday I bought a broken *ist DL2 with 18-55 kit lens for really cheap on the auction site, just over £10 GBP

So due to the great information here I believe this has 2 white solenoids so I can fix K-30 plus have another as a spare for my K-70 if ever needed.

2x white solenoids imported from ebay USA would have cost me around £120-130 GBP... Around 150 US dollars!

Looking forward to fixing it

**photogem** · 11-11-2019, 02:07 AM

Originally posted by nocturnal

Yesterday I bought a broken *ist DL2 with 18-55 kit lens for really cheap on the auction site, just over £10 GBP

So due to the great information here I believe this has 2 white solenoids so I can fix K-30 plus have another as a spare for my K-70 if ever needed.

2x white solenoids imported from ebay USA would have cost me around £120-130 GBP... Around 150 US dollars!

Looking forward to fixing it

Good luck

anyway: There is no resistor in the ciruit which can get damaged.

Thats an invention!

fergarmol · 11-14-2019, 10:45 AM

Hi, I am daring for two days with the black fotos issue in a K50. The solution presented by Photogem seems to be the best one. I would like to do that but I dont trust my capability to do so a precision job. I wanted to ask you if there is any technician doing the replacement of the green solenoide for the whiteone. Thanks a lot.

naatti · 11-18-2019, 01:53 PM

Hello! I was scared of the task too. But he would have been a fitter by far, so I started. I also watched a Youtube video and did the job.
(

You Tube

)
Remove the battery one day before installation. I covered the condenser with a paper towel to avoid accidentally touching it. It will work anyway. Soldering is no big deal, just do it fast, don't overheat the solenoid. Practice soldering first if you are uncertain.
When assembling, pay attention to the position of the AF-Manual switch. And done.
Hi, Attila

---------- Post added 11-18-19 at 01:57 PM ----------

Hello! In the video, I now look at filing soleonid, it is not recommended, it is not a durable solution. I changed it.
Hi! Attila

---------- Post added 11-18-19 at 02:10 PM ----------

Hello! In the video I am now watching how to rasp the soleonide. Its not recommended in the forum, its not a durable solution. I replaced the solenoid.

fergarmol · 11-19-2019, 10:10 AM

Thank you, Naatti, for your tips and animo. I will try it.

I've just ordered a white solenoid for 45 USD.

**photogem** · 11-19-2019, 10:09 PM

Good luck,
make sure you take all steps in the right order.
The K50 has some minor difference for the plastic door which covers the USB connector.
You have to take the complete plastic grip off, it looks like this:

You can see this square metal part which is glued into the grip but sometimes falls off so don't lose it.

This plastic USB door is hooked onto a nose on the front part, so you lift it to entangle it and when you assemble the camera after you finished exchanging the solenoid you first push this part through the hole again and pull it over this nose. See here:

This and the screws under the popup flash (2screws for the K50, 3 x for the K30) is the only difference.
Also you have that bit more space for the solenoid wires which is good.

Most important when re-assembling: Check the AF-M switch as described in my manual.
You don't want to miss this! Because if forgotten, the inner part of the switch moves and then those 2 parts won't connect:

naatti · 11-20-2019, 12:17 AM

Originally posted by fergarmol

Thank you, Naatti, for your tips and animo. I will try it.

I've just ordered a white solenoid for 45 USD.

Good luck with your work!
Then you describe your experience.

fergarmol · 11-23-2019, 03:32 AM - **1 Like**

Thank you, Photogem, for the advice. Now, just waiting for the new solenoid. I will report my experience. Regards.

**photogem** · 11-26-2019, 04:17 AM

I have revised the manual and added new photos to make things more clear.

11-09-2019, 10:10 AM	#52
nocturnal Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Photos: Gallery Posts: 507	Bought a broken donor camera Originally posted by photogem Good attitude! Plus: the K-30 is still worth it. Of course the K-70 is better but the K30 was one of the best in handling. Yesterday I bought a broken *ist DL2 with 18-55 kit lens for really cheap on the auction site, just over £10 GBP So due to the great information here I believe this has 2 white solenoids so I can fix K-30 plus have another as a spare for my K-70 if ever needed. 2x white solenoids imported from ebay USA would have cost me around £120-130 GBP... Around 150 US dollars! Looking forward to fixing it

11-19-2019, 10:09 PM	#57
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,520 Original Poster	Good luck, make sure you take all steps in the right order. The K50 has some minor difference for the plastic door which covers the USB connector. You have to take the complete plastic grip off, it looks like this: You can see this square metal part which is glued into the grip but sometimes falls off so don't lose it. This plastic USB door is hooked onto a nose on the front part, so you lift it to entangle it and when you assemble the camera after you finished exchanging the solenoid you first push this part through the hole again and pull it over this nose. See here: This and the screws under the popup flash (2screws for the K50, 3 x for the K30) is the only difference. Also you have that bit more space for the solenoid wires which is good. Most important when re-assembling: Check the AF-M switch as described in my manual. You don't want to miss this! Because if forgotten, the inner part of the switch moves and then those 2 parts won't connect: Last edited by photogem; 11-26-2019 at 04:24 AM.

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11-06-2019, 09:39 AM	#46
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,520 Original Poster	Originally posted by naatti Thank you very much for the excellent description! I had to change the solenoid on a Pentax K-70. The replacement was a complete success. I encourage anyone who has the technical know-how and installation experience not to be afraid to replace it. Best regards, everyone! Attila Well done and congratulations! And too bad that it seems to happen a bit more now with the K70.

11-07-2019, 01:42 AM	#47
naatti New Member Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 5	Originally posted by photogem Well done and congratulations! And too bad that it seems to happen a bit more now with the K70. Thank you for the praise, yes, unfortunately it was a bad surprise for me too. At two years old, the Pentax should pay more attention to quality because of such a long-standing bug. I don't understand how to pass on an obvious mistake from generation to generation. Sincerely, Attila

11-07-2019, 06:22 AM - 2 Likes	#48
nocturnal Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Photos: Gallery Posts: 507	Replaced my K-30 with a K-70 last December, last night I got out the K-30 to try it after it sat dormant and it has the aperture problem. I never use it but feel the need to fix it, might look for a broken old DSLR to get the white solenoid. I'm well adept working with electronics. The cheap chinese garbage solenoids on ebay aren't worth taking the camera apart nor are they worth the money. I couldn't sell a camera on with one of those in it... "Principles is principles"

11-07-2019, 02:09 PM - 1 Like	#49
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,520 Original Poster	Good attitude! Plus: the K-30 is still worth it. Of course the K-70 is better but the K30 was one of the best in handling.

11-08-2019, 02:30 AM	#50
naatti New Member Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 5	Originally posted by nocturnal Replaced my K-30 with a K-70 last December, last night I got out the K-30 to try it after it sat dormant and it has the aperture problem. I never use it but feel the need to fix it, might look for a broken old DSLR to get the white solenoid. I'm well adept working with electronics. The cheap chinese garbage solenoids on ebay aren't worth taking the camera apart nor are they worth the money. I couldn't sell a camera on with one of those in it... "Principles is principles" Bravo! I wish everyone was like this! We would live in a different world.

11-08-2019, 12:40 PM	#51
reh321 Pentaxian Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: South Bend, IN, USA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 23,179	Originally posted by naatti Thank you for the praise, yes, unfortunately it was a bad surprise for me too. At two years old, the Pentax should pay more attention to quality because of such a long-standing bug. I don't understand how to pass on an obvious mistake from generation to generation. Sincerely, Attila Those who have opened both cameras tell us that the design has changed - the K-70 has this problem much less often than the K-30/50 did. The system passes testing at the time it is made, but it ages in such a way that they sometimes fail as they get older. My "Super Program" that I purchased in 1983 still have a working aperture control system, so the solenoid can age appropriately, but apparently the recent ones do not.

11-11-2019, 02:07 AM	#53
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,520 Original Poster	Originally posted by nocturnal Yesterday I bought a broken *ist DL2 with 18-55 kit lens for really cheap on the auction site, just over £10 GBP So due to the great information here I believe this has 2 white solenoids so I can fix K-30 plus have another as a spare for my K-70 if ever needed. 2x white solenoids imported from ebay USA would have cost me around £120-130 GBP... Around 150 US dollars! Looking forward to fixing it Good luck anyway: There is no resistor in the ciruit which can get damaged. Thats an invention!

11-14-2019, 10:45 AM	#54
fergarmol New Member Join Date: Nov 2019 Posts: 4	Hi, I am daring for two days with the black fotos issue in a K50. The solution presented by Photogem seems to be the best one. I would like to do that but I dont trust my capability to do so a precision job. I wanted to ask you if there is any technician doing the replacement of the green solenoide for the whiteone. Thanks a lot.

11-19-2019, 10:10 AM	#56
fergarmol New Member Join Date: Nov 2019 Posts: 4	Thank you, Naatti, for your tips and animo. I will try it. I've just ordered a white solenoid for 45 USD.

11-20-2019, 12:17 AM	#58
naatti New Member Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 5	Originally posted by fergarmol Thank you, Naatti, for your tips and animo. I will try it. I've just ordered a white solenoid for 45 USD. Good luck with your work! Then you describe your experience.

11-23-2019, 03:32 AM - 1 Like	#59
fergarmol New Member Join Date: Nov 2019 Posts: 4	Thank you, Photogem, for the advice. Now, just waiting for the new solenoid. I will report my experience. Regards.

11-26-2019, 04:17 AM	#60
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,520 Original Poster	I have revised the manual and added new photos to make things more clear.