Manual solenoid replacement Pentax K30 / Discharge flash-condenser / Solenoid choice

fergarmol · 12-06-2019, 10:53 AM - **2 Likes**

Finally, I just have been enjoying a repation evening. I followed all the steps of Photogem's guide and, although my total inexperience in such fine work, I am very glad to tell you that my K50 is alive again. It takes fotos so clear and sharp like before.
Thank you to all the people of this great forum and specialy to Photogem for your kindness sharing your knwoledge.

**photogem** · 12-06-2019, 12:14 PM

Originally posted by fergarmol

Finally, I just have been enjoying a repair-evening. I followed all the steps of Photogem's guide and, although my total inexperience in such fine work, I am very glad to tell you that my K50 is alive again. It takes fotos so clear and sharp like before.
Thank you to all the people of this great forum and specially to Photogem for your kindness sharing your knowledge.

You are more than welcome and particular: Well done! It shows that somebody completly unexperienced to this kind of work can do it.

"Once it is shouldered it is light"

spartan34 · 12-15-2019, 03:01 PM - **2 Likes**

Great instructions! The photos you have posted make it very easy and my K30 now works like new again.

I was concerned about doing such microscopic soldering but, after borrowing my nephew's SainSmart Pro32 iron, it was quite easy. I got a bit stuck on the rubber USB cap - my K30 has one but perhaps not all versions do.

My only suggestion for improvement: there are two photos of the left side but none of the right side!

**photogem** · 12-21-2019, 04:01 PM

Originally posted by spartan34

Great instructions! The photos you have posted make it very easy and my K30 now works like new again.

You're welcome, that's what it was meant for!

Originally posted by spartan34

I was concerned about doing such microscopic soldering but, after borrowing my nephew's SainSmart Pro32 iron, it was quite easy.

Yes, looks like a good soldering iron, similar to the NovelLife Mini TS100.

Originally posted by spartan34

I got a bit stuck on the rubber USB cap - my K30 has one but perhaps not all versions do.

All K30's have that cap. This USB cap is easy to deal with if you take the complete -rubber-grip off.
Otherwise the USB cap will be stuck between the back-side (with the display) and the front.
As soon as the grip is completly off, it is straight forward. Also "glues" easely back on into position.

Originally posted by spartan34

My only suggestion for improvement: there are two photos of the left side but none of the right side!

Already changed, thanks. I had changed most photos to better ones and didn't notice afterwards.

sppelletier · 12-22-2019, 08:26 PM - **2 Likes**

Hi,

thank you for the instructions. Was able to repair my daughter's K50. It was easier than expected. I printed the picture as suggested and it was a real helper to place the screws on.

Thank you and have a nice holiday!

Chiefifd · 03-01-2020, 07:24 AM - **2 Likes**

My Pentax K50 had the Dark Photo issue in late 2019. I was hesitant to pay the money to get it repaired at a shop because of the expense and all.
I did buy Pentax's KP camera as a replacement for the K50, I had several lenses for the K50 already and didn't want to start all over again.
I started to follow this forum seeing several ways to fix or attempt to fix my K50.
I took the plunge, after what I had read here from phtotgem I purchased the white solenoid from eBay for around $45 dollars USA. I had some time today to attempt the install.
I followed photogem's instructions, and everything went pretty well, it took me about 1 1/2 hours from start to finish. I hadn't opened the Pentax K50 case prior, I didn't think the wires were that small. It helps to have very small screwdrivers and a pair of tweezers or two. I had a pair of forceps that were helpful.
But the soldering wasn't that bad to my surprise. I used an old 25-watt soldering iron I had around with a conical tip, nothing fancy at all. Soldering irons like the one I used are on eBay for less than $10 dollars USA.
I placed the charged battery back in the camera, and to my delight.....it works! I now have a great second camera for about $50 dollars, and some satisfaction fixing it myself.
Thanks so much for your instructions photogem......

**photogem** · 03-02-2020, 01:37 AM - **1 Like**

Well done! (and to spelletier and to all those I haven't mentioned this as well of course!)
There are USB soldering pens or soldering irons with fine tips on amazon and ebay.

I have never tried those but guess they should work fine.

From China or Hongkong very cheap but deliverytime can be a problem.

I think so as well: One can and shall be proud having accomplished such a repair.

ScorpZA · 04-11-2020, 09:33 AM - **3 Likes**

Hi,

Thanks to this forum and thread I have now successfully completed the solenoid replacement with one from a used donor K100 sourced from eBay.

All went well up to me shearing one of the newly soldered wires while putting the front back on. Well I soldered it on the side of the solenoid, (there are two solder points per side) as the thread mentioned.

Had to do a reset and after that it's been faultless.

Thanks again.

Scott

**photogem** · 04-11-2020, 01:44 PM

Well done and very neat soldering joints!

nocturnal · 04-11-2020, 08:19 PM

Glad to hear of another white solenoid repair, the only way if you ask me, I did it too.

A tip for you... I hot glued the solder joints and wires and tied the wires back to stop any possible breakages on reassembly and in the future.

I used hot glue for direct soldering of components when building loudspeaker crossovers without using PCBs so I had a few sticks and a glue gun in my electronics toolbox.

I'll be selling this K-30 with white solenoid shortly as it is never used, If I was a buyer I'd pay a higher price as very few have a white solenoid.

**photogem** · 05-09-2020, 08:54 AM

The idea of glueing is good, for me myself not really important:

- First I always allow a tiny amound of my very fine soldering-tin to melt on both pins of the solenoid before I even install it
- Then the same to the bare end wires which were soldered off the green solenoid.

- I just hold one wire with tweezers to the first pin, very short tough with the pencil-tip of the soldering-iron, the tin melts, one just is absolutly still and maybe counts to 2 and the solder has hardened.
Same the other wire/pin

But this question arouse: How on earth to you glue with such a large tool?
Or do you just let the glue melt and transport it to the wires?

nocturnal · 05-10-2020, 06:42 PM

Originally posted by photogem

The idea of glueing is good, for me myself not really important:

- First I always allow a tiny amound of my very fine soldering-tin to melt on both pins of the solenoid before I even install it
- Then the same to the bare end wires which were soldered off the green solenoid.

- I just hold one wire with tweezers to the first pin, very short tough with the pencil-tip of the soldering-iron, the tin melts, one just is absolutly still and maybe counts to 2 and the solder has hardened.
Same the other wire/pin

But this question arouse: How on earth to you glue with such a large tool?
Or do you just let the glue melt and transport it to the wires?

Haha I didn't use the hot glue gun, just melted some with the soldering iron and transported it to where the wires were originally tied in place with tape, basically a mechanical fixing to stop the wires possibly moving and stressing the solder joints.

I first started electronics and learned how to solder in school, I loved it, most of the other pupils were so bad at soldering but I was in my element. A tech geek always and still am. I hate those solder free products, mechanically fixed and soldered will never fail.

The K-30 will be on ebay soon and I am advertising it promoting the white solenoid, it's a guarantee that it won't fail and in my mind worth more than a K-30 which hasn't failed yet!

**Dickmethlick** · 07-08-2020, 08:46 AM - **1 Like**

Followed instructions to the (printed!) letter on a K30 bought off Ebay with the known fault present. Happened to have a "spares" *ist DSL bought to repair my old *ist and it had the white solenoid. It's all a bit tiny for 76 year old eyes to work on, but years of hobby electronics from younger days helped, everything went smoothly and after a bit of messing round, I now have what seems to be a fully functional K30. Only thing now is that it makes me very dissatisfied with the "kit" lens that came with the S/H *ist and so am wondering what is the best price/quality combination as a replacement.
Grateful thanks to the author for an excellent guide to what should really be a totally unnecessary repair.

**jatrax** · 07-08-2020, 09:09 AM

Originally posted by Dickmethlick

so am wondering what is the best price/quality combination as a replacement.

Best replacement lenses are the DA 16-85 or the DA 18-135. Either is a huge step up. 16-85 is a bit sharper around the edges and goes a bit wider. 18-135 has a longer reach. I use the 16-85 my wife uses the 18-135. Some days she gets the best shot, some days I do.

**Dickmethlick** · 07-08-2020, 02:38 PM

Originally posted by jatrax

Best replacement lenses are the DA 16-85 or the DA 18-135. Either is a huge step up. 16-85 is a bit sharper around the edges and goes a bit wider. 18-135 has a longer reach. I use the 16-85 my wife uses the 18-135. Some days she gets the best shot, some days I do.

Thanks for the suggestion. Would love to take the advice, but TEN times the cost of the K30 is a bit steep on a pension!

04-11-2020, 09:33 AM - 3 Likes	#68
ScorpZA New Member Join Date: Apr 2020 Posts: 4	Hi, Thanks to this forum and thread I have now successfully completed the solenoid replacement with one from a used donor K100 sourced from eBay. All went well up to me shearing one of the newly soldered wires while putting the front back on. Well I soldered it on the side of the solenoid, (there are two solder points per side) as the thread mentioned. Had to do a reset and after that it's been faultless. Thanks again. Scott Attached Images

07-08-2020, 08:46 AM - 1 Like	#73
Dickmethlick Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Near Aberdeen, Scotland Posts: 10	Another success Followed instructions to the (printed!) letter on a K30 bought off Ebay with the known fault present. Happened to have a "spares" ist DSL bought to repair my old ist and it had the white solenoid. It's all a bit tiny for 76 year old eyes to work on, but years of hobby electronics from younger days helped, everything went smoothly and after a bit of messing round, I now have what seems to be a fully functional K30. Only thing now is that it makes me very dissatisfied with the "kit" lens that came with the S/H *ist and so am wondering what is the best price/quality combination as a replacement. Grateful thanks to the author for an excellent guide to what should really be a totally unnecessary repair.

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12-06-2019, 10:53 AM - 2 Likes	#61
fergarmol New Member Join Date: Nov 2019 Posts: 4	Finally, I just have been enjoying a repation evening. I followed all the steps of Photogem's guide and, although my total inexperience in such fine work, I am very glad to tell you that my K50 is alive again. It takes fotos so clear and sharp like before. Thank you to all the people of this great forum and specialy to Photogem for your kindness sharing your knwoledge.

12-06-2019, 12:14 PM	#62
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,520 Original Poster	Originally posted by fergarmol Finally, I just have been enjoying a repair-evening. I followed all the steps of Photogem's guide and, although my total inexperience in such fine work, I am very glad to tell you that my K50 is alive again. It takes fotos so clear and sharp like before. Thank you to all the people of this great forum and specially to Photogem for your kindness sharing your knowledge. You are more than welcome and particular: Well done! It shows that somebody completly unexperienced to this kind of work can do it. "Once it is shouldered it is light"

12-15-2019, 03:01 PM - 2 Likes	#63
spartan34 New Member Join Date: Dec 2019 Posts: 1	Great instructions! The photos you have posted make it very easy and my K30 now works like new again. I was concerned about doing such microscopic soldering but, after borrowing my nephew's SainSmart Pro32 iron, it was quite easy. I got a bit stuck on the rubber USB cap - my K30 has one but perhaps not all versions do. My only suggestion for improvement: there are two photos of the left side but none of the right side!

12-21-2019, 04:01 PM	#64
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,520 Original Poster	Originally posted by spartan34 Great instructions! The photos you have posted make it very easy and my K30 now works like new again. You're welcome, that's what it was meant for! Originally posted by spartan34 I was concerned about doing such microscopic soldering but, after borrowing my nephew's SainSmart Pro32 iron, it was quite easy. Yes, looks like a good soldering iron, similar to the NovelLife Mini TS100. Originally posted by spartan34 I got a bit stuck on the rubber USB cap - my K30 has one but perhaps not all versions do. All K30's have that cap. This USB cap is easy to deal with if you take the complete -rubber-grip off. Otherwise the USB cap will be stuck between the back-side (with the display) and the front. As soon as the grip is completly off, it is straight forward. Also "glues" easely back on into position. Originally posted by spartan34 My only suggestion for improvement: there are two photos of the left side but none of the right side! Already changed, thanks. I had changed most photos to better ones and didn't notice afterwards.

12-22-2019, 08:26 PM - 2 Likes	#65
sppelletier New Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Québec Posts: 17	Hi, thank you for the instructions. Was able to repair my daughter's K50. It was easier than expected. I printed the picture as suggested and it was a real helper to place the screws on. Thank you and have a nice holiday!

03-01-2020, 07:24 AM - 2 Likes	#66
Chiefifd New Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Posts: 14	My Pentax K50 had the Dark Photo issue in late 2019. I was hesitant to pay the money to get it repaired at a shop because of the expense and all. I did buy Pentax's KP camera as a replacement for the K50, I had several lenses for the K50 already and didn't want to start all over again. I started to follow this forum seeing several ways to fix or attempt to fix my K50. I took the plunge, after what I had read here from phtotgem I purchased the white solenoid from eBay for around $45 dollars USA. I had some time today to attempt the install. I followed photogem's instructions, and everything went pretty well, it took me about 1 1/2 hours from start to finish. I hadn't opened the Pentax K50 case prior, I didn't think the wires were that small. It helps to have very small screwdrivers and a pair of tweezers or two. I had a pair of forceps that were helpful. But the soldering wasn't that bad to my surprise. I used an old 25-watt soldering iron I had around with a conical tip, nothing fancy at all. Soldering irons like the one I used are on eBay for less than $10 dollars USA. I placed the charged battery back in the camera, and to my delight.....it works! I now have a great second camera for about $50 dollars, and some satisfaction fixing it myself. Thanks so much for your instructions photogem......

03-02-2020, 01:37 AM - 1 Like	#67
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,520 Original Poster	Well done! (and to spelletier and to all those I haven't mentioned this as well of course!) There are USB soldering pens or soldering irons with fine tips on amazon and ebay. I have never tried those but guess they should work fine. From China or Hongkong very cheap but deliverytime can be a problem. I think so as well: One can and shall be proud having accomplished such a repair.

04-11-2020, 01:44 PM	#69
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,520 Original Poster	Well done and very neat soldering joints!

04-11-2020, 08:19 PM	#70
nocturnal Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Photos: Gallery Posts: 507	Glad to hear of another white solenoid repair, the only way if you ask me, I did it too. A tip for you... I hot glued the solder joints and wires and tied the wires back to stop any possible breakages on reassembly and in the future. I used hot glue for direct soldering of components when building loudspeaker crossovers without using PCBs so I had a few sticks and a glue gun in my electronics toolbox. I'll be selling this K-30 with white solenoid shortly as it is never used, If I was a buyer I'd pay a higher price as very few have a white solenoid.

05-09-2020, 08:54 AM	#71
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,520 Original Poster	The idea of glueing is good, for me myself not really important: - First I always allow a tiny amound of my very fine soldering-tin to melt on both pins of the solenoid before I even install it - Then the same to the bare end wires which were soldered off the green solenoid. - I just hold one wire with tweezers to the first pin, very short tough with the pencil-tip of the soldering-iron, the tin melts, one just is absolutly still and maybe counts to 2 and the solder has hardened. Same the other wire/pin But this question arouse: How on earth to you glue with such a large tool? Or do you just let the glue melt and transport it to the wires?

05-10-2020, 06:42 PM	#72
nocturnal Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Photos: Gallery Posts: 507	Originally posted by photogem The idea of glueing is good, for me myself not really important: - First I always allow a tiny amound of my very fine soldering-tin to melt on both pins of the solenoid before I even install it - Then the same to the bare end wires which were soldered off the green solenoid. - I just hold one wire with tweezers to the first pin, very short tough with the pencil-tip of the soldering-iron, the tin melts, one just is absolutly still and maybe counts to 2 and the solder has hardened. Same the other wire/pin But this question arouse: How on earth to you glue with such a large tool? Or do you just let the glue melt and transport it to the wires? Haha I didn't use the hot glue gun, just melted some with the soldering iron and transported it to where the wires were originally tied in place with tape, basically a mechanical fixing to stop the wires possibly moving and stressing the solder joints. I first started electronics and learned how to solder in school, I loved it, most of the other pupils were so bad at soldering but I was in my element. A tech geek always and still am. I hate those solder free products, mechanically fixed and soldered will never fail. The K-30 will be on ebay soon and I am advertising it promoting the white solenoid, it's a guarantee that it won't fail and in my mind worth more than a K-30 which hasn't failed yet!

07-08-2020, 09:09 AM	#74
jatrax Site Supporter Join Date: May 2010 Location: Washington Cascades Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 12,991	Originally posted by Dickmethlick so am wondering what is the best price/quality combination as a replacement. Best replacement lenses are the DA 16-85 or the DA 18-135. Either is a huge step up. 16-85 is a bit sharper around the edges and goes a bit wider. 18-135 has a longer reach. I use the 16-85 my wife uses the 18-135. Some days she gets the best shot, some days I do.

07-08-2020, 02:38 PM	#75
Dickmethlick Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Near Aberdeen, Scotland Posts: 10	Originally posted by jatrax Best replacement lenses are the DA 16-85 or the DA 18-135. Either is a huge step up. 16-85 is a bit sharper around the edges and goes a bit wider. 18-135 has a longer reach. I use the 16-85 my wife uses the 18-135. Some days she gets the best shot, some days I do. Thanks for the suggestion. Would love to take the advice, but TEN times the cost of the K30 is a bit steep on a pension!