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**MrEMaker** · 02-03-2021, 07:13 AM

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Originally posted by photogem

Usually one cuts the wire off deeper down to extend it and insulates it with shrink-tubing. You have now a very tight wire which through that tension might break again.

Thanks for the additional information photogem. When I was looking at your details again I realised that I forgot to add the 'locking nail varnish' to the solenoid screw so I've got to open the camera up again to fix that. I'll also do what you suggest and extend the ground lead while I'm in there.

nicolpa47 · 02-04-2021, 09:50 AM

Finally got around to replacing the green solenoid in my K50 today. So far, my K30 has been fine.

I followed Photogem's instructions which I'd made sure I understood before starting, and gathered the necessary tools together. I was slightly surprised, having harvested white solenoids from iST DL and K-x cameras, just how easy it was to access the solenoid - more open than in the earlier bodies.

The camera seems to work properly although it was only ever the first shot which was dark.

Just a couple of comments:-

1) The screw holding the solenoid in place and partly covered in a lacquer was much tighter than those in the cameras I'd previously opened, to the extent I wasn't sure it was going to move. If I hadn't had the correct JIS screwdrivers, I think the head might have become "chewed".

2) The tweezers I had were too large to hold the wires in place whilst soldering to the replacement solenoid. Make sure your tweezers are of a modest size, particularly the width. I'm used to soldering so I was able to hold the wires sufficiently steady using a small flat head screwdriver. I have smaller tweezers but couldn't find them.

I feel confident now that if the K30 "falls over" I can fix it without too much difficulty.

Thanks Photogem for all your efforts on this topic.

reh321 · 02-04-2021, 10:01 AM

Originally posted by MarkJerling

I've deleted some off-topic posts. This thread is for advice as to replacement of the solenoid, specifically the choice of solenoid. It is not a thread for "I think the filing method works as well".

We {at least most of us} understand that, but the question may become whether any 'fix' is appropriate.
I got several lenses with aperture-rings and set aperture on the lens.
If Pentax releases a few more KAF4 lenses, modifying the firmware will also become a feasible way of having the K-30 body control the aperture seamlessly.
But you are right about the topic of this thread, so I will say nothing more of that other subject on this thread.

**photogem** · 02-04-2021, 11:06 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by nicolpa47

The screw holding the solenoid in place and partly covered in a lacquer was much tighter than those in the cameras I'd previously opened, to the extent I wasn't sure it was going to move. If I hadn't had the correct JIS screwdrivers, I think the head might have become "chewed".

JIS is of course the best. Sometimes the thread-locking-laquer covers the screw that badly, that the tip of your screwdriver just won't get a grip.
Then one needs to wash it off with alcohol which takes time but works.

Originally posted by nicolpa47

2) The tweezers I had were too large to hold the wires in place whilst soldering to the replacement solenoid. Make sure your tweezers are of a modest size, particularly the width. I'm used to soldering so I was able to hold the wires sufficiently steady using a small flat head screwdriver. I have smaller tweezers but couldn't find them.

A good source is ebay, for example this kind which I like very much:
THUMB DRESSING FORCEP TISSUE HOLDING TWEEZER 16CM SERRATED TIP SURGICAL STEEL CE | eBay

Originally posted by nicolpa47

I feel confident now that if the K30 "falls over" I can fix it without too much difficulty.
Thanks Photogem for all your efforts on this topic.

You're welcome and yes, if your K30 shall develop the dark-image-syndrome, then you tackle it with ease, JIS and matching tweezers.
I like good tools and my favourite pliers are from Xuron:
https://www.digikey.co.uk/product-detail/en/sra-soldering-products/TLXURON45...0S-ND/10708336

jswilson64 · 02-17-2021, 10:30 AM

Is there anyone doing the repair service with a "white" solenoid? And/or a reliable source for the proper solenoid? There are tons of listings on Ebay but how to know if they're legit...

**erikro** · 02-17-2021, 10:59 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by jswilson64

Is there anyone doing the repair service with a "white" solenoid? And/or a reliable source for the proper solenoid? There are tons of listings on Ebay but how to know if they're legit...

I can do the repair with a white solenoid, but it will proberly be to expensive posting it to Denmark.

**photogem** · 02-17-2021, 02:32 PM

Originally posted by jswilson64

Is there anyone doing the repair service with a "white" solenoid? And/or a reliable source for the proper solenoid? There are tons of listings on Ebay but how to know if they're legit...

This is the only one which is real inbetween those tons of false solenoids:
eBay Nr.: 322337505674
Otherwise:
DSLR Pentax bodies with solenoid - PentaxForums.com
Good luck in finding somebody and yes, shipping costs to/from Europe are very high plus the problem of customs.
One would have to supply proof and fill out forms for such a repair.

mtkeller · 06-23-2021, 12:41 PM - **1 Like**

Thanks for this very detailed tutorial, @photogem. Today I have transplanted a white solenoid from the aperture block of a K-r into my K-50. (I mentioned elsewhere that, despite there being no evidence this K-r's life originated in Europe, the pop-up flash contained a green solenoid.) Since the K-r is basically just sitting around in case I ever need to convert another failed SDM to screwdrive, I just threw the failed green solenoid from the K-50 into the K-r.

cm3 · 07-05-2021, 06:17 AM - **2 Likes**

photogem, thank you so much for this exceedingly detailed repair guide. Prior to this I'd had a fair amount of computer repair experience and a bit of recent high dexterity work (manually straightening pins on a dropped Ryzen CPU with a mechanical pencil and a magnifying glass), but I've got slight tremors in both hands and didn't know if I'd be up to the task of swapping solenoids considering I'd never soldered a day in my life. Happy to say that between this guide, a few Youtube teardowns, a fair helping of elbow grease, and several choice words for screws who went missing in reassembly, I managed to get the job done! The solder job is...adequate for now, and if I have to redo it down the line I feel up to the task. Much obliged for detailing this repair to the extent that a newbie like myself could tackle it.

**photogem** · 07-05-2021, 11:02 AM - **1 Like**

@mtkeller: So the K-r which was the very last one to have the Japan-Solenoid for aperture control had the green solenoid possibly more often in the flash circuit.
Anyway, well done to you and to
@cm3! If the soldering would not be good enough, nothing serious can happen, but you have immediately black photos again. That is the only reason a white Japan-Solenoid would fail
aside of physical damage of course. Yes, tremor in both hands makes it more difficult, so well done!

johngs · 07-20-2021, 01:51 AM

I have a K50 with the aperture block failure.
I just bought an old istD S to get the solenoid from to put in my k50.
Somewhere on Pentaxforums I think I remember seeing a post from a guy explaining how to do this and he had included pictures of a k50 from all sides that you could print out and use to poke the removed screws in so you didn't lose where they went.
I can't find these pictures now. I did find the ones of a K30.
Can anyone point me to where the k50 pictures are so I can print them? Thank you.

mtkeller · 07-20-2021, 05:42 AM

I used the K-50 ones. The thread with those images points out the couple of spots there are differences on the K-50, and I think it’s just in whether or not a screw is covered by the rubber on the grip and then some things not related to screws that you need to watch when reassembling.

**photogem** · 07-20-2021, 07:03 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by johngs

I have a K50 with the aperture block failure.
I just bought an old istD S to get the solenoid from to put in my k50.
Somewhere on Pentaxforums I think I remember seeing a post from a guy explaining how to do this and he had included pictures of a k50 from all sides that you could print out and use to poke the removed screws in so you didn't lose where they went.
I can't find these pictures now. I did find the ones of a K30.
Can anyone point me to where the k50 pictures are so I can print them? Thank you.

K50. K500 and K30 are almost identical:
Manual solenoid replacement Pentax K30 / Discharge flash-condenser / Solenoid choice - PentaxForums.com

The unimportant differences are explained right there.

The only screw-difference is when the flash is open: 2 instead of 3 screws.

So print out those photos!

Don't forget the extra screw on the bottom when you took the bottomcover off. There is one screw (shown in the tutorial).

ScorpZA · 07-21-2021, 02:28 PM

I just took pics of my camera on all sides.. printed them on a4..

ScorpZA · 07-21-2021, 02:33 PM

..in fact here they are still on my phone...

07-21-2021, 02:33 PM	#105
ScorpZA New Member Join Date: Apr 2020 Posts: 4	..in fact here they are still on my phone... Attached Images

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02-03-2021, 07:13 AM	#91
MrEMaker Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2011 Posts: 13	Staff note: This post may contain affiliate links, which means Pentax Forums may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. If you would like to support the forum directly, you may also make a donation here. Originally posted by photogem Usually one cuts the wire off deeper down to extend it and insulates it with shrink-tubing. You have now a very tight wire which through that tension might break again. Thanks for the additional information photogem. When I was looking at your details again I realised that I forgot to add the 'locking nail varnish' to the solenoid screw so I've got to open the camera up again to fix that. I'll also do what you suggest and extend the ground lead while I'm in there.

02-04-2021, 09:50 AM	#92
nicolpa47 Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2016 Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,034	Finally got around to replacing the green solenoid in my K50 today. So far, my K30 has been fine. I followed Photogem's instructions which I'd made sure I understood before starting, and gathered the necessary tools together. I was slightly surprised, having harvested white solenoids from iST DL and K-x cameras, just how easy it was to access the solenoid - more open than in the earlier bodies. The camera seems to work properly although it was only ever the first shot which was dark. Just a couple of comments:- 1) The screw holding the solenoid in place and partly covered in a lacquer was much tighter than those in the cameras I'd previously opened, to the extent I wasn't sure it was going to move. If I hadn't had the correct JIS screwdrivers, I think the head might have become "chewed". 2) The tweezers I had were too large to hold the wires in place whilst soldering to the replacement solenoid. Make sure your tweezers are of a modest size, particularly the width. I'm used to soldering so I was able to hold the wires sufficiently steady using a small flat head screwdriver. I have smaller tweezers but couldn't find them. I feel confident now that if the K30 "falls over" I can fix it without too much difficulty. Thanks Photogem for all your efforts on this topic.

02-04-2021, 10:01 AM	#93
reh321 Pentaxian Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: South Bend, IN, USA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 23,185	Originally posted by MarkJerling I've deleted some off-topic posts. This thread is for advice as to replacement of the solenoid, specifically the choice of solenoid. It is not a thread for "I think the filing method works as well". We {at least most of us} understand that, but the question may become whether any 'fix' is appropriate. I got several lenses with aperture-rings and set aperture on the lens. If Pentax releases a few more KAF4 lenses, modifying the firmware will also become a feasible way of having the K-30 body control the aperture seamlessly. But you are right about the topic of this thread, so I will say nothing more of that other subject on this thread.

02-04-2021, 11:06 AM - 1 Like	#94
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,524 Original Poster	Originally posted by nicolpa47 The screw holding the solenoid in place and partly covered in a lacquer was much tighter than those in the cameras I'd previously opened, to the extent I wasn't sure it was going to move. If I hadn't had the correct JIS screwdrivers, I think the head might have become "chewed". JIS is of course the best. Sometimes the thread-locking-laquer covers the screw that badly, that the tip of your screwdriver just won't get a grip. Then one needs to wash it off with alcohol which takes time but works. Originally posted by nicolpa47 2) The tweezers I had were too large to hold the wires in place whilst soldering to the replacement solenoid. Make sure your tweezers are of a modest size, particularly the width. I'm used to soldering so I was able to hold the wires sufficiently steady using a small flat head screwdriver. I have smaller tweezers but couldn't find them. A good source is ebay, for example this kind which I like very much: THUMB DRESSING FORCEP TISSUE HOLDING TWEEZER 16CM SERRATED TIP SURGICAL STEEL CE \| eBay Originally posted by nicolpa47 I feel confident now that if the K30 "falls over" I can fix it without too much difficulty. Thanks Photogem for all your efforts on this topic. You're welcome and yes, if your K30 shall develop the dark-image-syndrome, then you tackle it with ease, JIS and matching tweezers. I like good tools and my favourite pliers are from Xuron: https://www.digikey.co.uk/product-detail/en/sra-soldering-products/TLXURON45...0S-ND/10708336

02-17-2021, 10:30 AM	#95
jswilson64 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: wilson_j_s@sbcglobal.net Photos: Albums Posts: 118	Is there anyone doing the repair service with a "white" solenoid? And/or a reliable source for the proper solenoid? There are tons of listings on Ebay but how to know if they're legit...

02-17-2021, 10:59 AM - 1 Like	#96
erikro Site Supporter Join Date: May 2008 Location: Ølgod, Denmark Photos: Gallery Posts: 135	Originally posted by jswilson64 Is there anyone doing the repair service with a "white" solenoid? And/or a reliable source for the proper solenoid? There are tons of listings on Ebay but how to know if they're legit... I can do the repair with a white solenoid, but it will proberly be to expensive posting it to Denmark.

02-17-2021, 02:32 PM	#97
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,524 Original Poster	Originally posted by jswilson64 Is there anyone doing the repair service with a "white" solenoid? And/or a reliable source for the proper solenoid? There are tons of listings on Ebay but how to know if they're legit... This is the only one which is real inbetween those tons of false solenoids: eBay Nr.: 322337505674 Otherwise: DSLR Pentax bodies with solenoid - PentaxForums.com Good luck in finding somebody and yes, shipping costs to/from Europe are very high plus the problem of customs. One would have to supply proof and fill out forms for such a repair.

06-23-2021, 12:41 PM - 1 Like	#98
mtkeller Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Sioux City, IA Photos: Gallery Posts: 938	Thanks for this very detailed tutorial, @photogem. Today I have transplanted a white solenoid from the aperture block of a K-r into my K-50. (I mentioned elsewhere that, despite there being no evidence this K-r's life originated in Europe, the pop-up flash contained a green solenoid.) Since the K-r is basically just sitting around in case I ever need to convert another failed SDM to screwdrive, I just threw the failed green solenoid from the K-50 into the K-r.

07-05-2021, 06:17 AM - 2 Likes	#99
cm3 New Member Join Date: Jul 2021 Posts: 1	photogem, thank you so much for this exceedingly detailed repair guide. Prior to this I'd had a fair amount of computer repair experience and a bit of recent high dexterity work (manually straightening pins on a dropped Ryzen CPU with a mechanical pencil and a magnifying glass), but I've got slight tremors in both hands and didn't know if I'd be up to the task of swapping solenoids considering I'd never soldered a day in my life. Happy to say that between this guide, a few Youtube teardowns, a fair helping of elbow grease, and several choice words for screws who went missing in reassembly, I managed to get the job done! The solder job is...adequate for now, and if I have to redo it down the line I feel up to the task. Much obliged for detailing this repair to the extent that a newbie like myself could tackle it.

07-05-2021, 11:02 AM - 1 Like	#100
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,524 Original Poster	@mtkeller: So the K-r which was the very last one to have the Japan-Solenoid for aperture control had the green solenoid possibly more often in the flash circuit. Anyway, well done to you and to @cm3! If the soldering would not be good enough, nothing serious can happen, but you have immediately black photos again. That is the only reason a white Japan-Solenoid would fail aside of physical damage of course. Yes, tremor in both hands makes it more difficult, so well done!

07-20-2021, 01:51 AM	#101
johngs Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Christchurch, New Zealand Posts: 229	I have a K50 with the aperture block failure. I just bought an old istD S to get the solenoid from to put in my k50. Somewhere on Pentaxforums I think I remember seeing a post from a guy explaining how to do this and he had included pictures of a k50 from all sides that you could print out and use to poke the removed screws in so you didn't lose where they went. I can't find these pictures now. I did find the ones of a K30. Can anyone point me to where the k50 pictures are so I can print them? Thank you.

07-20-2021, 05:42 AM	#102
mtkeller Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Sioux City, IA Photos: Gallery Posts: 938	I used the K-50 ones. The thread with those images points out the couple of spots there are differences on the K-50, and I think it’s just in whether or not a screw is covered by the rubber on the grip and then some things not related to screws that you need to watch when reassembling.

07-20-2021, 07:03 AM - 1 Like	#103
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,524 Original Poster	Originally posted by johngs I have a K50 with the aperture block failure. I just bought an old istD S to get the solenoid from to put in my k50. Somewhere on Pentaxforums I think I remember seeing a post from a guy explaining how to do this and he had included pictures of a k50 from all sides that you could print out and use to poke the removed screws in so you didn't lose where they went. I can't find these pictures now. I did find the ones of a K30. Can anyone point me to where the k50 pictures are so I can print them? Thank you. K50. K500 and K30 are almost identical: Manual solenoid replacement Pentax K30 / Discharge flash-condenser / Solenoid choice - PentaxForums.com The unimportant differences are explained right there. The only screw-difference is when the flash is open: 2 instead of 3 screws. So print out those photos! Don't forget the extra screw on the bottom when you took the bottomcover off. There is one screw (shown in the tutorial).

07-21-2021, 02:28 PM	#104
ScorpZA New Member Join Date: Apr 2020 Posts: 4	I just took pics of my camera on all sides.. printed them on a4..