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12-27-2019, 04:27 PM   #1
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Well, my K-50 just encountered the Aperture Block Failure

And this is about a month after I sold my K-3!!!

Literally took the camera out, last weekend, and took some great shots of my daughter and her cousins at the park. Brought it with me to take pictures at the family Christmas and all of my pictures were dark. I somehow reset it and took some fun pictures, but today, nothing. A few test shots in super bright light came back dark, and a search of these forums told me the bad news.

Well, that's a great way to start the new year, eh?!

12-27-2019, 04:34 PM   #2
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Somebody recently uploaded a tutorial on how to repair it. You should give it a try. Good luck!
12-27-2019, 04:47 PM - 1 Like   #3
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That's a bit sucky, when mine went it was still under warranty.
Here's the guide to repair, as suggested above: Manual solenoid replacement Pentax K30 / Discharge flash-condenser / Solenoid choice - PentaxForums.com

Also, some folks find that it works fine still with AA batteries in the adapter - have you given that a go?
Alternatively, get yourself some M42 lenses, and slow down a bit. As far new lenses the new KAF4 55-300 will work fine on an aperture blocked K-50 as well.
12-27-2019, 05:47 PM - 1 Like   #4
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Look on the bright side - now you've got a reason to get a KP.

12-27-2019, 06:59 PM - 1 Like   #5
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and whatever you do, don't get rid of the K-50...

put an M42 adapter on it and make it your M42/manual only body...
12-27-2019, 07:29 PM - 2 Likes   #6
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Well, I bought an used K50 with the same problem and fixing wasn't difficult at all.
First, get these screwdrivers:
Precision Screwdriver Set | TD-56S Vessel JIS Made in Japan | 6 Piece Kit - - amazon.com?tag=pentaxforums-20&

Then follow this video:

Mine now works beautifully.

Good luck!
12-28-2019, 01:39 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by Gianclaudio Quote
Well, I bought an used K50 with the same problem and fixing wasn't difficult at all.

Mine now works beautifully.

Good luck!
So, it was only a bad connection that needed cleaning!?

12-28-2019, 01:55 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by Paul the Sunman Quote
So, it was only a bad connection that needed cleaning!?
No, you do a minimal amount of sanding to an U shaped part which is moved by the solenoid. It seems the tips of this part develop or have a flash (like casting flash) and get stuck inside the solenoid.

Anyways, the amount of sanding is ridiculously small.

I let my K50 to rest for two weeks without shooting for checking if it could lock with time, and nope, everything works fine!
12-28-2019, 05:16 PM - 1 Like   #9
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Sorry to hear that! Happens to the best of us.


QuoteOriginally posted by Gianclaudio Quote
Anyways, the amount of sanding is ridiculously small.
Good to hear. My K-30 is sitting in a drawer unused and untouched since it developed its problem
Maybe it's time I took a crack at it.
01-11-2020, 04:25 AM   #10
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Applying the filing/sanding method is saving you a little bit money but can do much harm.
You can read about it here:
Why you shouldn't file/sand the plunger of the green Chinasolenoid but replace it - PentaxForums.com
and as well here:
Solenoid problem return plus sound - Page 2 - PentaxForums.com

Member tonyzoc had his camera sent to the known place in California (PC35 Photolab), well known to repair defunct Pentax with stuck solenoids
but he applies sanding/filing as well.

The most advanced solution I came across was done by an official Pentax repair-shop in Germany, they applied a special etching technique but this failed as well.

Why having WR and then bring the dirt or sludge inside the camera?

Last edited by photogem; 01-24-2020 at 01:44 AM.
01-23-2020, 12:44 PM - 1 Like   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
Applying the filing/sanding method is saving you a little bit money but can do much harm.
You can read about it here:
Why you shouldn't file/sand the plunger of the green Chinasolenoid but replace it - PentaxForums.com
and as well here:
Solenoid problem return plus sound - Page 2 - PentaxForums.com

Member tonyzoc had his camera sent to the known place in California (PC35 Photolab), well known to repair defunct Pentax with stuck solenoids
but he applies sanding/filing as well.

The most advanced solution I came across was done by an official Pentax repair-shop in Germany, they applied a special etching technique
but this failed as well.

Worse of course to use graphite or grease.

Why having WR and then bring the dirt or sludge inside the camera?
Well, in lieu of finding a white solenoid, I went ahead and did the fix by sanding the current green solenoid magnet down and now my camera is working perfectly.
01-24-2020, 01:56 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by ThomSirveaux Quote
Well, in lieu of finding a white solenoid, I went ahead and did the fix by sanding the current green solenoid magnet down and now my camera is working perfectly.
This will lead 100% to further problems!

As soon as the protective surface is hurt, tendency to corrosion will drastically increase.
This is not something that might happen, it will happen.
Protecting the surface will not help except a short time.
01-27-2020, 05:45 PM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
This will lead 100% to further problems!

As soon as the protective surface is hurt, tendency to corrosion will drastically increase.
This is not something that might happen, it will happen.
Protecting the surface will not help except a short time.

I am fully aware of what happens to magnets once you strip off the enamel. My main issue is that finding a suitable replacement solenoid (i.e. the white one, not the green one)

The camera is only worth about $100, maybe $150 on a good day (though that's not even looking likely, as of late). If I can get another year or two out of it before having to replace the solenoid, great!
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