[Bui]

So today I tried to fix my K30 aperture block, since I recently obtained a white solenoid. The "surgery "following your DIY guide here was fine (I actually did it successfully in the past with a K50), however, I have a new problem: the shutter is not stuck close. The weird thing is, live view works fine, I can take photos at any aperture, so I guess the new solenoid has worked. But whenever I turn of LV, the shutter remains closed again. I tried turning on, off the camera, using Bulb mode, removing the battery but nothing has worked yet.

Could you please help me with your idea?

I attached 2 photos: how I soldered the new solenoid, and how the current shutter looks like.

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[Not a Number]

Is this a "previously owned" camera? If previously owned perhaps the "burst method fix" was tried. What is the shutter count? Perhaps the shutter is simply failing.

[Bui]

Yes it’s possible but at the same time I think it’s not very high chance though, the camera is approx 10k clicks, and I play with it before doing the surgery (shooting at f22) and there was no issue.

[stevebrot]

Yes it’s possible but at the same time I think it’s not very high chance though, the camera is approx 10k clicks, and I play with it before doing the surgery (shooting at f22) and there was no issue.

The shutter will not open unless the mirror-up and aperture stop-down sequence have completed. Those are controlled by the assembly you just serviced.

It seems strange that live view still works. The difference between that and the exposure sequence is doing aperture stop-down. Are you able to do an exposure from live view?


Steve

[stevebrot]

there was no issue.

Are you saying that the camera was fully functional (no aperture control failure) before applying the "fix"?


Steve

[Not a Number]

The shutter will not open unless the mirror-up and aperture stop-down sequence have completed. Those are controlled by the assembly you just serviced.

Yes, it is possible the timing gears in the control block mechanism were not in the "neutral" position when the solenoid was replaced. Thus the timing of all the operations are off. The gear box itself wasn't removed so it shouldn't be a problem. It probably won't help since the aperture control block mechanism is different but the *istD series service manuals show how to set the gears before removing and replacing the block.

[Bui]

Are you saying that the camera was fully functional (no aperture control failure) before applying the "fix"?


Steve

I'm sorry for not being clear, I mean obviously the camera has aperture block issue, but before the operation I was playing with it using f22 (or the smallest aperture of the lens on the camera), because at that aperture aperture block is no longer a problem. It took hundreds of photos without any issue, so I thought maybe its shutter mechanism is still fine?

In fact, what exactly happened was, after the first try, I put the battery in, turned on the camera and tested, the shutter was blocked right after the first click, and exposure failed also, all photos were white. I assume my repair was unsuccessful, so I did a second try: unsolder the new solenoid, took it out, put it back, solder it again. This time the camera works perfectly in live view (exposure and everything, at all apertures), but the shutter remains stuck every-time unless I used mirror lockup mode to clean the sensor.

I concluded that:

- The new solenoid actually works
- I did something wrong during the first try leading to the shutter being blocked
- If I can "reset" the shutter, while maintaining the current new solenoid, the camera will resume its service.

As of now it remains unusable for me, since I rarely use LV, and using the viewfinder is not possible since the shutter is blocking almost all light.

Any idea?

[Not a Number]

The shutter is not in path between the lens, mirror, focusing screen prism and viewfinder. Perhaps you mean the mirror is locked up? A lens cap, aperture closed down or mirror up are what would block the viewfinder.

The K-30 will have a focal plane shutter which means the shutter is located just in front of the sensor.

[photogem]

Below the solenoid is the shutterboard. There are several wires: green at the left, then blue, pink, black, white at the right
Sometimes one of those wires might come off and then the shutter is stuck

[Bui]

The shutter is not in path between the lens, mirror, focusing screen prism and viewfinder. Perhaps you mean the mirror is locked up? A lens cap, aperture closed down or mirror up are what would block the viewfinder.

The K-30 will have a focal plane shutter which means the shutter is located just in front of the sensor.

No the mirror is fine, as you can see in my second photo, I have to hold the mirror up by hand to see the stuck shutter.

---------- Post added 05-05-20 at 01:27 AM ----------

Below the solenoid is the shutterboard. There are several wires: green at the left, then blue, pink, black, white at the right
Sometimes one of those wires might come off and then the shutter is stuck

I will try to examine if one has came off. Otherwise I'm thinking about reversing the operation, and re test, maybe with some lucks the shutter will release?