[Mushu]

I have a K-30 and no matter which lens I use all of my pictures are too dark. It feels like the exposure meter is broken or something. I played with ISO settings, and then tried manual settings using TV/AV/TaV and all are too dark on "normal" settings. Fully-charged batteries. Even the "Auto" picture is too dark. Any ideas how to intelligently troubleshoot this? Hoping I don't have to ship it to my nearest authorized repair center...ugh...perhaps there is a master factory reset I can try first?

---------- Post added 06-16-21 at 03:43 PM ----------

I have a K-30 and no matter which lens I use all of my pictures are too dark. It feels like the exposure meter is broken or something. I played with ISO settings, and then tried manual settings using TV/AV/TaV and all are too dark on "normal" settings. Fully-charged batteries. Even the "Auto" picture is too dark. Any ideas how to intelligently troubleshoot this? Hoping I don't have to ship it to my nearest authorized repair center...ugh...perhaps there is a master factory reset I can try first?

So I guess I answered my own question...google is your friend. I found this post:

The gold standard for diagnosing aperture block failure is to put the camera in M mode (auto ISO off, aperture ring not being used) with aperture set wide open and shutter speed at something slow (e.g. 1-2 seconds). Release the shutter while observing the aperture opening through the front of the lens.* Anything other than the aperture remaining wide open is indication of a problem with the controller. If the problem has been intermittent, it may help to do the test after a period of non-use. Even one failure is significant.

* This method was instrumental in diagnosing the initial wave of aperture block failures on the K-30 and narrowing the cause to a fault in a mechanical component rather than electronics.

And of course when I set my camera to M mode and fixed ISO and aperture at F4.0 and watched the lens when I took a picture, I saw the teeny tiny aperture almost completely closed. After taking many pics and changing some of the settings I went back to M mode and tried it again at F4.0 and lo-and-behold the aperture was nice and wide open this time! And a few test pictures show it was working fine now. So guess that solenoid thingy is bad on mine as well.
/sad

[paulh]

So guess that solenoid thingy is bad on mine as well.

Sounds like it. But, as you've discovered, you can still use it in M mode with lenses with an aperture ring.

[Paul the Sunman]

It does sound like the dreaded Aperture Block Failure, to which the K-30 and its siblings are prone.

[micl161]

Sounds like it. But, as you've discovered, you can still use it in M mode with lenses with an aperture ring.

I have a K30 and it had aperture block issue as well. As you mentioned, I use it on M mode with lenses with aperture ring. I found that the lenses with 'A' setting on the aperture ring sometimes have weird exposure while the M or M42 , Tamron adaptall lenses are more stable. I just forget the 'A' lenses on the K30 for now.

[Paul the Sunman]

Is repair out of the question? This works for some, at least for a while.

You Tube

You Tube

[Its Y I shoot Pentax]

Try tripping the shutter without a lens mounted. Pay close attention to see if the aperture lever is moving or not. Also, when your set the aperture on on any lens to its max, the aperture mechanism should not stop down (cause closure) if it is, then there is something way off.

[DWS1]

Sounds like aperture block failure. It's really a simple fix to replace the solenoid you can do yourself.

[MarkJerling]

Is repair out of the question? This works for some, at least for a while.

Here

The filing solution is (in most cases) not a permanent fix.
A far better solution is to fix it once and fix it right with a (Pentax) white solenoid replacement.

See here: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/151-pentax-k-30-k-50/385045-manual-solen...id-choice.html

And here: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/151-pentax-k-30-k-50/388728-why-you-shou...t-replace.html

See also: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/151-pentax-k-30-k-50/315725-dark-exposur...on-thread.html

[MossyRocks]

Another option is if you want to get a new camera find someone who can make use of a not fully functional camera. I picked up a K-500 with a broken AF and aperture block failure problems and paid more for shipping than for the camera. I use it regularly as a 3rd astro camera where things like autofocus and auto aperture don't matter. I might see about getting it converted to monochrome and then get some narrowband astro filters for it because that would open up a lot of shooting from my massively light polluted backyard. At like $28 delivered I wouldn't be out much if the conversion fails and I have gotten almost a good year out of using it so it was one of my most cost effective purchases.

[peggers]

It isn't "too" expensive to get it fixed professionally. In Melbourne it costs around the AU$150 mark. I suspect it would be similarly priced elsewhere. It is however a big pain that it is such a common issue.

[pentaxus]

How many old M42 lenses do you have? Just a thought.

[Its Y I shoot Pentax]

Some really good suggestions! I may keep my eyes peeled for a body to modify.

[photogem]

It isn't "too" expensive to get it fixed professionally. In Melbourne it costs around the AU$150 mark. I suspect it would be similarly priced elsewhere. It is however a big pain that it is such a common issue.

Depends what you call a "professional fix"!
I know of several socalled prof. fixes which mean filing/sanding.
Mark Jerling has mentioned everything that needs to be said about it.
Of course, if DIY is out of question, the in USA you can resort to PC35 Photolab
in California, they sand and file as well but give warranty, so better than no camera or a crippled one.

The DIY repair with the white Japan solenoid is not really difficult, I know many who never had done any soldering etc. and succeeded.

[m42man]

I have a K30 and it had aperture block issue as well. As you mentioned, I use it on M mode with lenses with aperture ring. I found that the lenses with 'A' setting on the aperture ring sometimes have weird exposure while the M or M42 , Tamron adaptall lenses are more stable. I just forget the 'A' lenses on the K30 for now.

There's an odd quirk about failing K-30/50/500: they stop the aperture down in Av mode. Not only do you not need to use the green button, but you get more accurate exposures. (I'm talking about K-mount lenses with aperture rings.)

The only negative is that you need to do what a normally functioning camera would do, in terms of evaluating the correct exposure for the set aperture following its wide-open metering. So, you need to use exposure compensation: for example, if you have an f2 lens mounted, and you set it to f4 (i.e. 2 stops down from wide-open), you need to set +2 EV of compensation.

And it works a treat.

The negative is that many vintage lenses are zooms with variable aperture (e.g Pentax F35-70 f3.5-4.5), so you may need to do some manoeuvering to get the right compensation. But for constant-aperture lenses you're fine.

[micl161]

The only negative is that you need to do what a normally functioning camera would do, in terms of evaluating the correct exposure for the set aperture following its wide-open metering. So, you need to use exposure compensation: for example, if you have an f2 lens mounted, and you set it to f4 (i.e. 2 stops down from wide-open), you need to set +2 EV of compensation.

This is new to me, thanks !