[nicolpa47]

I self-repaired my K50. I used a white solenoid salvaged out of a Pentax body(a k-x, I think) being sold as "non-working, for parts". I followed @photogem's instructions on the forum, including the running down of the flash capacitor. The only part of the job which seems to give problems is the delicate soldering but, if you're okay with that, it's not difficult. You just need to be organised and careful. I found that dismantling the old camera gave me a visual insight into what was needed but I wouldn't personally take your K20 apart to do the job. I had/still have a working K100d that I didn't use as a donor. I also found that access to the flash solenoid was a bit fiddly and although it can be replaced with a "green" solenoid, I didn't feel confident about doing that - but that's just me.

I also have a K30 which is used intermittently and I have a white solenoid against the day it fails. I'd be quite happy doing the repair myself.

[JimmyC]

Photogem---Thanks, for the advice. I somehow missed your post in all of the solenoid posts. I agree the repair is the least expensive approach and if I fail, without shocking myself in the process, then I am only out the $50 USD. I still want to sort out recommendations for a potential camera replacement or whether Adam's recommended lens is a viable solution. At one point, I had a Kd20 and assumed it was my emergency back-up camera but I have not been able to locate it after multiple frantic searches through the house. My wife believes I loaned it to someone who we no longer have contact information (a former neighbor). If I don't find the Kd20, then I may still try to repair my K50 and hope it works. Then the repaired K50 could be my back-up camera and I still get a new one. The Pentax K5iiS does not appear to be sold new now---only used. I don't like to buy used stuff and inherit someone else's problem(s) or they did not care for the camera as I would, etc. As with everything else in life it all comes down to how many $$$'s I can afford and the timing of spending those $$$'s. It's tough as I have pictures I would like to take at this coming weekend's graduation but now my primary camera is down with no emergency back-up either. Bummer. Maybe I will locate the Kd20. JimC

[grog85361]

The K20 probably does not have a solenoid. If it is like the K10, the flash release is mechanically connected to the release button. If you can raise the flash on your K20 with the camera turned off, then there is no solenoid. The aperture mechanism does not use a solenoid,either. As PhotoGem has outlined, you need a K100,110,K-X,K-R or *istDxx series camera body to harvest a white solenoid. The repair process is not difficult, but requires patience.

Just my .02 worth.

[photogem]

.... I don't like to buy used stuff and inherit someone else's problem(s) or they did not care for the camera as I would, etc. As with everything else in life it all comes down to how many $$$'s I can afford and the timing of spending those $$$'s. It's tough as I have pictures I would like to take at this coming weekend's graduation but now my primary camera is down with no emergency back-up either. Bummer. Maybe I will locate the Kd20. JimC

You can still use the K50 in M-mode if you have lenses with an aperture ring!

Then you preselect the aperture and use the green button-method.

If you want to buy new: The K-70 is more or less similar to the KF.
For security you can check the date of manufacture here:
Check Camera Shutter Count and Manufacture Date
Just upload a JPEG made with it and you know the data!


Good luck!

[photogem]

The K20 probably does not have a solenoid. If it is like the K10, the flash release is mechanically connected to the release button. If you can raise the flash on your K20 with the camera turned off, then there is no solenoid. The aperture mechanism does not use a solenoid,either. As PhotoGem has outlined, you need a K100,110,K-X,K-R or *istD series camera body to harvest a white solenoid. The repair process is not difficult, but requires patience.

Just my .02 worth.

That's wrong!


The K10D and the K20D use a solenoid for aperture-control!

I wish a little bit that people would read the respective threads with that bit more attention because I outlined clearly that the K10D, K20D and their Samsung siblings use the solenoid for aperture-control but have no solenoid for the pop-up-flash (nor do the K30/50/7/5 etc.)
Then I don't have to correct wrong recommendations which will be misleading.

No offense meant though!

[JimmyC]

Photogem--on further question. In your opinion, is a Pentax DSLR camera with "sporadic" usage after longer periods of non-use prone to the solenoid issue? From what I have read the cameras manufactured with the original "white solenoid" were much better but can they whether periods of non-usage? I will retire in 19 months and will have more time for digital photography but until then my camera will be used "sporadically" just given the lack of free time with overtime work hours and not always feeling the best. Perhaps I need to "REALLY" hope to repair my K50 and defer any new camera decision until I retire if Pentax cameras are prone to a solenoid issue when not used regularly. Or maybe Adam's lens recommendation if my K50 repair fails. JimC

[grog85361]

That's wrong!


The K10D and the K20D use a solenoid for aperture-control!

I wish a little bit that people would read the respective threads with that bit more attention because I outlined clearly that the K10D, K20D and their Samsung siblings use the solenoid for aperture-control but have no solenoid for the pop-up-flash (nor do the K30/50/7/5 etc.)
Then I don't have to correct wrong recommendations which will be misleading.

No offense meant though!

Oops. I stand corrected.

[photogem]

Photogem--on further question. In your opinion, is a Pentax DSLR camera with "sporadic" usage after longer periods of non-use prone to the solenoid issue? From what I have read the cameras manufactured with the original "white solenoid" were much better but can they whether periods of non-usage? I will retire in 19 months and will have more time for digital photography but until then my camera will be used "sporadically" just given the lack of free time with overtime work hours and not always feeling the best. Perhaps I need to "REALLY" hope to repair my K50 and defer any new camera decision until I retire if Pentax cameras are prone to a solenoid issue when not used regularly. Or maybe Adam's lens recommendation if my K50 repair fails. JimC

It is very simple:
With a 100% alright solenoid no worry.
This you have with either the Japanese DSLR solenoid or with any K70 built after 1/2021 and the KF.

The white Japan solenoid never failed.


So with such a K-70 or any KF and a repaired K50 you are on the safe side.

[Not a Number]

As pointed out the white solenoids (used) are available on eBay. There is a post on a repair service in Oregon that will either (your choice) use the not recommended filing method or replace the green with white solenoid. I don't recall if you need to supply the white solenoid. If you don't have the equipment and/or skills for a DIY repair that would be an alternative.

[JimmyC]

As pointed out the white solenoids (used) are available on eBay. There is a post on a repair service in Oregon that will either (your choice) use the not recommended filing method or replace the green with white solenoid. I don't recall if you need to supply the white solenoid. If you don't have the equipment and/or skills for a DIY repair that would be an alternative.

Not a Number...thanks! I did see the post and webpage on the repair service in Oregon but I could not find any additional posts as to a forum member's experience using them. Do you have any first hand knowledge? Thanks JimC

[photogem]

Not a Number...thanks! I did see the post and webpage on the repair service in Oregon but I could not find any additional posts as to a forum member's experience using them. Do you have any first hand knowledge? Thanks JimC

We have one person who had experience with this service:
Repair of solenoid issue K-30 K-50 K-70 K-S1 K-S2 in the US - PentaxForums.com
You have to pay extra if you supply the white DSLR solenoid, which I don't quite understand but there you go.
Don't worry about not being able to do the repair yourself.

[JimmyC]

We have one person who had experience with this service:
Repair of solenoid issue K-30 K-50 K-70 K-S1 K-S2 in the US - PentaxForums.com
You have to pay extra if you supply the white DSLR solenoid, which I don't quite understand but there you go.
Don't worry about not being able to do the repair yourself.

Photogem, thank you for ALL of your time to help me. I am still pondering what to do, evaluating my finances,etc. JimC

[5pts4slytherin]

FWIW, I was able to repair my K-50 during a quiet pandemic weekend a couple of years ago. It had been afflicted by the solenoid issue and had sat unused for a few years when I finally learned of the cause and possible solutions. I followed the "sanding" approach, just slightly rounding the corners/edges of the solenoid plunger. It was a tricky job with so many tiny bits and I was resigned to the possibility that it might be the end of the camera...but it wasn't taking pictures anyway, so I didn't stand to lose much beyond my time. I didn't take steps to discharge the capacitor, but the camera did sit for a few days without the battery. I was absolutely thrilled when the camera was back together and taking proper pictures again. 2 years later, still doing fine. I'm just sharing my experience--my K50 had the issue. The fix was a challenge. But it worked and I still enjoy the camera.

[photogem]

FWIW, I was able to repair my K-50 during a quiet pandemic weekend a couple of years ago. It had been afflicted by the solenoid issue and had sat unused for a few years when I finally learned of the cause and possible solutions. I followed the "sanding" approach, just slightly rounding the corners/edges of the solenoid plunger.

To those in USA who aren't able to apply DIY I have recommended against my own warnings (see HERE) to send their Pentax to PC35 Photolab in California because they give a lifetime warranty and thus one has a lower risk.
Nevertheless we had as well problems with their sanding approach which you can study in all detail here in this thread

I find that if one takes on a job which you define as

.....a tricky job with so many tiny bits and I was resigned to the possibility that it might be the end of the camera

and, knowing maybe that if one has to do it again because it can fail and then risking that a few screws might not tighten anymore because the plastic threads are worn too much now* (which I have encountered many times with Pentax DSLR having been repaired with the sanding job and later failed again) .... the question arises why not doing it 100% proberly, i.e. investing either a bit of time for finding a 2.nd hand donor Pentax or purchasing the solenoid on ebay.com???

There is another problem when recommending the sanding-job:
At least half of those "sanded" Pentax bodies which I had on my desk for repair were purchased in good faith because the seller claimed "aperture failure repaired" and later on the buyers had the problem of ABF and sent their Pentax to me.
So the sanding job is loved to be used by those who want to get rid of their Pentax.

I didn't take steps to discharge the capacitor, but the camera did sit for a few days without the battery

This is too risky because if the camera just sits for a few days without the battery the capacitor keeps enough charge so you can get quite a surprise jolt.


This is a well know phenomen and because if this I gave the very simple recommendations how to discharge the photoflash capacitor if one feels too uneasy doing it with either a lightbulb of a resistor in each tutorial but I wrote a more detailed tutorial HERE with quite a lengthy discussion which partly was based on sheer theory but gives a deeper insight into the problem.

HERE you can see that pretty tricky section of the K30/50/500: Very easy to touch it while working on it,

very different to the K-S1, K-S2 and K70 were we don't have such a crictical contact area!


I don't think it is a good idea to tell others "I did it without discharging and it worked".
You just were lucky that you didn't touch the spots which would give you that jolt if you did!

*it is particular the long screw inside the battery-box which holds the ON/OFF/Shutterrelease button in position.
It is this thread which often wears out quickly. If the DIYer doesn't realize that then other methods need to be applied so that this important screw will screw in really well and tight then later on the camera will just stop working because important electrical contacts aren't working anymore!

Again, a problem I have encountered particular in "sanded Pentax bodies" which failed again, one has to apply Epoxy into the worn thread, not that easy and... it will wear more if you have to disassemble again.

So to me the sanding job is a stingy job and I can't recommend it. It might work, but it many cases it doesn't and causes further problems.

[5pts4slytherin]

So to me the sanding job is a stingy job and I can't recommend it. It might work, but it many cases it doesn't and causes further problems.

Thanks. Lots of good information here and in other threads that I was not aware of at the time.

While the job was challenging, I was prepared for this and was meticulously careful in placing of screws, being gentle, recording and reversing order of disassembly. I spent most of a Saturday on it.

Anyway, the milk was spilled and I was lucky. If this camera does develop the same or some other issue, I will likely just consider it time for an upgrade.
Meanwhile, I'm going to keep taking pictures. Cheers!