Pentax K50 - Green Solenoid Aperture Issue / Guidance

JimmyC · 05-09-2023, 05:01 AM

BACKGROUND
I am a 40 year Pentax camera user back to the days of Kodax film with Pentax K1000, ME and ME Super cameras. About 10 years ago, I purchased the K20 to use my "old, vintage" SMC glass lens (50mm 1.4; 28mm, 135mm and a 80-200 zoom). Five years ago I added the K50. Sadly in the past year my K50 was not used given various personal issues. I pulled it out to take pictures at a graduation this coming weekend and my K50 has the dreaded green solenoid aperture issue where all pictures are totally black or grossly under exposed. I have read through the voluminous posts on this topic. I did get the camera to work for a short period by time bursting photos but as soon as it was powered off, the camera returned to the totally black exposures.

Question 1
The self-repair route of purchasing a Chinese "green" solenoid on ebay seems to be dicey at best. I don't want to harvest the "white" solenoid from my k20 as it still operates or did the last time I used it. Anyone think I should try the self-repair route?

Question 2
The K50 is currently on sale at B&H Photo for $240. I have to buy the same camera twice with this alternative but this seems to be the "lowest cost option" . However, does anyone know if Pentax eventually replaced the "green" Chinese solenoid with the better Japanese "white one"? Otherwise, it seems I am buying the same problem again. All thoughts and advice welcome on this question.

Question 3
If the purchasing a second K50 is not a good idea given the continued use of the "green" solenoid, then what Pentax camera would you recommend? Does the newer Pentax cameras still operate well after setting idle for months on end? I am not rich but I also do not want to waste money purchasing a second K50 with the same potential problem.

Question 4
I did see a post from Adam in the K50 green solenoid threads about purchasing a DA 55-300mm PLM lens that would "make" my K50 work again. I do take some pictures that need a wider lens, but this is not a show stopper and I could use the PLM lens exclusively. The cost of this lens is currently $377--so its a higher cost than purchasing a replacement k50 camera but likely less expensive than recommended replacement cameras in question 3. I did purchase with my K50 with the self-focusing "regular/kit lens" a DA 55-300mm so this replacement PLM lens would duplicate what I have but my kit lens is not the PLM version. Thoughts and advice on this option?

Thank you to all who take the time to reply. Sorry for so many questions. Your insight and advice to help me are both GREATLY appreciated.
JimC

Barso · 05-09-2023, 06:04 AM

Originally posted by JimmyC

BACKGROUND
I am a 40 year Pentax camera user back to the days of Kodax film with Pentax K1000, ME and ME Super cameras. About 10 years ago, I purchased the K20 to use my "old, vintage" SMC glass lens (50mm 1.4; 28mm, 135mm and a 80-200 zoom). Five years ago I added the K50. Sadly in the past year my K50 was not used given various personal issues. I pulled it out to take pictures at a graduation this coming weekend and my K50 has the dreaded green solenoid aperture issue where all pictures are totally black or grossly under exposed. I have read through the voluminous posts on this topic. I did get the camera to work for a short period by time bursting photos but as soon as it was powered off, the camera returned to the totally black exposures.

Question 1
The self-repair route of purchasing a Chinese "green" solenoid on ebay seems to be dicey at best. I don't want to harvest the "white" solenoid from my k20 as it still operates or did the last time I used it. Anyone think I should try the self-repair route?

Question 2
The K50 is currently on sale at B&H Photo for $240. I have to buy the same camera twice with this alternative but this seems to be the "lowest cost option" . However, does anyone know if Pentax eventually replaced the "green" Chinese solenoid with the better Japanese "white one"? Otherwise, it seems I am buying the same problem again. All thoughts and advice welcome on this question.

Question 3
If the purchasing a second K50 is not a good idea given the continued use of the "green" solenoid, then what Pentax camera would you recommend? Does the newer Pentax cameras still operate well after setting idle for months on end? I am not rich but I also do not want to waste money purchasing a second K50 with the same potential problem.

Question 4
I did see a post from Adam in the K50 green solenoid threads about purchasing a DA 55-300mm PLM lens that would "make" my K50 work again. I do take some pictures that need a wider lens, but this is not a show stopper and I could use the PLM lens exclusively. The cost of this lens is currently $377--so its a higher cost than purchasing a replacement k50 camera but likely less expensive than recommended replacement cameras in question 3. I did purchase with my K50 with the self-focusing "regular/kit lens" a DA 55-300mm so this replacement PLM lens would duplicate what I have but my kit lens is not the PLM version. Thoughts and advice on this option?

Thank you to all who take the time to reply. Sorry for so many questions. Your insight and advice to help me are both GREATLY appreciated.
JimC

Sorry to hear about your issue, I know what it's like when a camera fails.

There are others on here who know more than me about Pentax dslr's but one thing we will agree on is NOT to touch a replacement green solenoid.
From the K-30 up to the K-70 all have green solenoid issues except that the K-70 from 2021 are supposed to be ok......but I stand to be corrected if I've got the year wrong.

**allanmh** · 05-09-2023, 06:09 AM

Personally, I wouldn't bother repairing the K50. I have botht the K30 and the K50, and none of them have failed so far, but if and when they did I would buy a K5iis (in fact I have already done so, in expectation of the failure of the lower tier cameras, and it is an impressive beast of a camera), which does not have the aperture block failure problem.

Both my K30 and K50 have been upgraded to use KAF4 lenses in the hope that Pentax will some day release KAF4 kit lens. Until then the 55-300mm PLM is your most economical option.

**othar** · 05-09-2023, 06:43 AM

As far as I know has the solenoid isses only been resolved for newer K-70's, as Barso mentioned, therefore buying a new K-50 may result in the same problems.
A K-5iis won't be fully compatible with KAF4 lenses, AFAIK, so I would recommend a K-3 or newer model if you are not averse to buying second hand.

The DIY repair is probably your best course of action, maybe look for a used K20 to harvest the solenoid, if you don't wanna use yours.
In the meantime (until you deside what to do) you can use your vintage lenses with aperture rings in M mode (aperture won't be recorded in exif and you are forced to use green button metering, but your camera will still be usable)

**marcusBMG** · 05-09-2023, 06:55 AM - **1 Like**

There are a few sellers on ebay (see seller potmano ) for the white solenoids - not the cheapest option but more convenient than searching for an old camera body to acquire the white solenoid from.
Note that old models like the 1st, K100 etc have two solenoids: you can take out the solenoid from the flash flip up, replace that solenoid with a green one and still have two working cameras. It might be worth looking into your K20 to see what solenoid that has operating the flash flip up.
I have now done half a dozen repairs: K30, K50, KS2, K70, it's really not a difficult job.

JimmyC · 05-09-2023, 07:31 AM

MarcusBMG, thanks for the advice. The only trepidation I have with the repair is discharging the flash capacitor as I don't have any tools to do that. This is my biggest reservation about even trying--particularly if $45 could make the K50 operational again. Any advice on making a novice like me feel more comfortable dealing with the flash capacitor? Thx. JimC

texandrews · 05-09-2023, 07:38 AM

Just as a PSA: threads discussing solenoid issues have been fraught in the past. Let's all please make sure this one stays pleasant and informative.

JimmyC · 05-09-2023, 07:56 AM

If I opt not to repair my K50 for fear of the flash capacitor, is there universal consensus that the solenoid issue is fully resolved in the K70's? B&H has the black/silver K70 on sale for $477 but the all black one is $527. Are these K70's camera identical except for the exterior difference of all black versus black/silver? The price difference seems to great to me for merely a cosmetic exterior appearance. Maybe I am just old to care. :-) B&H has significant selections of the k70's but only one for the Pentax KF ($847). Does anyone prefer the KF over the K70? I am reading reviews and the KF is newer but is it "better" ---built in Japan, other valued features that you experts like, etc.? All advice is welcome.

Barso · 05-09-2023, 08:05 AM

Originally posted by JimmyC

MarcusBMG, thanks for the advice. The only trepidation I have with the repair is discharging the flash capacitor as I don't have any tools to do that. This is my biggest reservation about even trying--particularly if $45 could make the K50 operational again. Any advice on making a novice like me feel more comfortable dealing with the flash capacitor? Thx. JimC

If memory serves right there is no need to go near the capacitor, just take the battery out first and handle it carefully.

JimmyC · 05-09-2023, 08:16 AM

Barso--thank you. I am still "pondering" which direction to go in....Depending on if can get my wife to agree to increase my allowance, I may buy a k70 but I really WANT to ENSURE the solenoid issue is RESOLVED, otherwise I may have another sad day in the future when it has the same problem. JimC

**roberrl** · 05-09-2023, 09:13 AM

I think it's worth considering a K5iiS, cheaper than a K3 but still completely avoiding the whole solenoid issue.
I had one until recently and loved it, good solid build quality and all the usual Pentax handleability.
With your lens collection KAF4 compatibility isn't an issue.

**photogem** · 05-09-2023, 09:35 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by JimmyC

MarcusBMG, thanks for the advice. The only trepidation I have with the repair is discharging the flash capacitor as I don't have any tools to do that. This is my biggest reservation about even trying--particularly if $45 could make the K50 operational again. Any advice on making a novice like me feel more comfortable dealing with the flash capacitor? Thx. JimC

Don't even worry about discharging it, if you follow my advice if you don't want to discharge it (see link)

and you leave the K50 switched off for a couple of days after that procedure, then you don't risk anything.

Here both options:
How to discharge the photo-flash capacitor of a DSLR (here K-30/K-50/K-500) - PentaxForums.com

But... yet... everybody would be able to buy an old fashioned light-bulb (no matter how many watts, lets say from 15W up to 100W is fine) and connect to to 2 wires.

Repairing a K50 or not:
If you feel you can do it, it is no question, you won't get a cheaper still very well working Pentax for around US$ 50!

And don't go for any other solenoid then the Japan DSLR version, which is offered by seller potmano on ebay.com.
This is safe and sound.

Forget any others offered on ebay USA.

But who knows, maybe some member here has a spare one.

Good luck ... and "dare"!

PS: A new K50 will most likely develop the same problem.
Particular "because it is new and thus wasn't used for a loooong time: Highly possible the solenoid will be stuck"

I like the K-5IIs, it is a great body, better than the K50 if you know what you do but ... the K50 will work for a long time
after it got the Japan DSLR Solenoid!

**photogem** · 05-09-2023, 09:44 AM

Originally posted by texandrews

Just as a PSA: Threads discussing solenoid issues have been fraught in the past. Let's all please make sure this one stays pleasant and informative.

Don't worry: In the past, yes, because many didn't believe it, felt those who "stood up" are trying to blame/hurt Pentax.

I know the facts very well and since it became clear that the K-70 was hit as well and since I proved the facts with this thread:
A little bit of history of the solenoid in Pentax cameras

This "history-thread" shall be updated soon with some more "special facts"

**photogem** · 05-09-2023, 09:48 AM

Originally posted by Barso

If memory serves right there is no need to go near the capacitor, just take the battery out first and handle it carefully.

NO NO NO NO NO!!!

Not good to give such advice if you aren't sure:
With the K30/50/500 there are contacts which you can touch and get a shock.
It isn't a nasty shock but a bit unpleasant.

It is not the contacts of the capacitor itself but contacts on the board which you most likely will tough!

So you have to make sure you discharge it!

With the K-S1, K-S2 and K-70 it is much less risk to get a shock, I never had to discharge the capacitor with those!

**photogem** · 05-09-2023, 10:03 AM

Originally posted by allanmh

Personally, I wouldn't bother repairing the K50. I have botht the K30 and the K50, and none of them have failed so far

You are very lucky. Possibly because you used them very regularely.

In the German Pentaxforum 151 members had ABF with the K30, 69 members were luck (last vote was in the year 2021!)
That's 69% and I bet now, in the year 2023 at least half of those remaining 31% won't work either!

That is my experience, I would say almost every K30 which isn't used over a longer period will develop ABF.
This is "in the nature of solenoid generation-1", it is prone to fail. You find this one in all K30's, all K500's and
70% of all K50's.

52% of all K50's were hit with ABF, but again: of the remaining 48% I bet that a third of them developed ABF as well.

05-09-2023, 05:01 AM	#1
JimmyC New Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 21	Pentax K50 - Green Solenoid Aperture Issue / Guidance BACKGROUND I am a 40 year Pentax camera user back to the days of Kodax film with Pentax K1000, ME and ME Super cameras. About 10 years ago, I purchased the K20 to use my "old, vintage" SMC glass lens (50mm 1.4; 28mm, 135mm and a 80-200 zoom). Five years ago I added the K50. Sadly in the past year my K50 was not used given various personal issues. I pulled it out to take pictures at a graduation this coming weekend and my K50 has the dreaded green solenoid aperture issue where all pictures are totally black or grossly under exposed. I have read through the voluminous posts on this topic. I did get the camera to work for a short period by time bursting photos but as soon as it was powered off, the camera returned to the totally black exposures. Question 1 The self-repair route of purchasing a Chinese "green" solenoid on ebay seems to be dicey at best. I don't want to harvest the "white" solenoid from my k20 as it still operates or did the last time I used it. Anyone think I should try the self-repair route? Question 2 The K50 is currently on sale at B&H Photo for $240. I have to buy the same camera twice with this alternative but this seems to be the "lowest cost option" . However, does anyone know if Pentax eventually replaced the "green" Chinese solenoid with the better Japanese "white one"? Otherwise, it seems I am buying the same problem again. All thoughts and advice welcome on this question. Question 3 If the purchasing a second K50 is not a good idea given the continued use of the "green" solenoid, then what Pentax camera would you recommend? Does the newer Pentax cameras still operate well after setting idle for months on end? I am not rich but I also do not want to waste money purchasing a second K50 with the same potential problem. Question 4 I did see a post from Adam in the K50 green solenoid threads about purchasing a DA 55-300mm PLM lens that would "make" my K50 work again. I do take some pictures that need a wider lens, but this is not a show stopper and I could use the PLM lens exclusively. The cost of this lens is currently $377--so its a higher cost than purchasing a replacement k50 camera but likely less expensive than recommended replacement cameras in question 3. I did purchase with my K50 with the self-focusing "regular/kit lens" a DA 55-300mm so this replacement PLM lens would duplicate what I have but my kit lens is not the PLM version. Thoughts and advice on this option? Thank you to all who take the time to reply. Sorry for so many questions. Your insight and advice to help me are both GREATLY appreciated. JimC

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05-09-2023, 06:04 AM	#2
Barso Forum Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Newcastle upon Tyne, England Posts: 85	Originally posted by JimmyC BACKGROUND I am a 40 year Pentax camera user back to the days of Kodax film with Pentax K1000, ME and ME Super cameras. About 10 years ago, I purchased the K20 to use my "old, vintage" SMC glass lens (50mm 1.4; 28mm, 135mm and a 80-200 zoom). Five years ago I added the K50. Sadly in the past year my K50 was not used given various personal issues. I pulled it out to take pictures at a graduation this coming weekend and my K50 has the dreaded green solenoid aperture issue where all pictures are totally black or grossly under exposed. I have read through the voluminous posts on this topic. I did get the camera to work for a short period by time bursting photos but as soon as it was powered off, the camera returned to the totally black exposures. Question 1 The self-repair route of purchasing a Chinese "green" solenoid on ebay seems to be dicey at best. I don't want to harvest the "white" solenoid from my k20 as it still operates or did the last time I used it. Anyone think I should try the self-repair route? Question 2 The K50 is currently on sale at B&H Photo for $240. I have to buy the same camera twice with this alternative but this seems to be the "lowest cost option" . However, does anyone know if Pentax eventually replaced the "green" Chinese solenoid with the better Japanese "white one"? Otherwise, it seems I am buying the same problem again. All thoughts and advice welcome on this question. Question 3 If the purchasing a second K50 is not a good idea given the continued use of the "green" solenoid, then what Pentax camera would you recommend? Does the newer Pentax cameras still operate well after setting idle for months on end? I am not rich but I also do not want to waste money purchasing a second K50 with the same potential problem. Question 4 I did see a post from Adam in the K50 green solenoid threads about purchasing a DA 55-300mm PLM lens that would "make" my K50 work again. I do take some pictures that need a wider lens, but this is not a show stopper and I could use the PLM lens exclusively. The cost of this lens is currently $377--so its a higher cost than purchasing a replacement k50 camera but likely less expensive than recommended replacement cameras in question 3. I did purchase with my K50 with the self-focusing "regular/kit lens" a DA 55-300mm so this replacement PLM lens would duplicate what I have but my kit lens is not the PLM version. Thoughts and advice on this option? Thank you to all who take the time to reply. Sorry for so many questions. Your insight and advice to help me are both GREATLY appreciated. JimC Sorry to hear about your issue, I know what it's like when a camera fails. There are others on here who know more than me about Pentax dslr's but one thing we will agree on is NOT to touch a replacement green solenoid. From the K-30 up to the K-70 all have green solenoid issues except that the K-70 from 2021 are supposed to be ok......but I stand to be corrected if I've got the year wrong.

05-09-2023, 06:09 AM	#3
allanmh Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: København, Danmark Posts: 156	Personally, I wouldn't bother repairing the K50. I have botht the K30 and the K50, and none of them have failed so far, but if and when they did I would buy a K5iis (in fact I have already done so, in expectation of the failure of the lower tier cameras, and it is an impressive beast of a camera), which does not have the aperture block failure problem. Both my K30 and K50 have been upgraded to use KAF4 lenses in the hope that Pentax will some day release KAF4 kit lens. Until then the 55-300mm PLM is your most economical option.

05-09-2023, 06:43 AM	#4
othar Site Supporter Join Date: May 2014 Location: Linz Photos: Albums Posts: 3,098	As far as I know has the solenoid isses only been resolved for newer K-70's, as Barso mentioned, therefore buying a new K-50 may result in the same problems. A K-5iis won't be fully compatible with KAF4 lenses, AFAIK, so I would recommend a K-3 or newer model if you are not averse to buying second hand. The DIY repair is probably your best course of action, maybe look for a used K20 to harvest the solenoid, if you don't wanna use yours. In the meantime (until you deside what to do) you can use your vintage lenses with aperture rings in M mode (aperture won't be recorded in exif and you are forced to use green button metering, but your camera will still be usable)

05-09-2023, 06:55 AM - 1 Like	#5
marcusBMG Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: North Wales Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,868	There are a few sellers on ebay (see seller potmano ) for the white solenoids - not the cheapest option but more convenient than searching for an old camera body to acquire the white solenoid from. Note that old models like the 1st, K100 etc have two solenoids: you can take out the solenoid from the flash flip up, replace that solenoid with a green one and still have two working cameras. It might be worth looking into your K20 to see what solenoid that has operating the flash flip up. I have now done half a dozen repairs: K30, K50, KS2, K70, it's really not a difficult job.

05-09-2023, 07:31 AM	#6
JimmyC New Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 21 Original Poster	MarcusBMG, thanks for the advice. The only trepidation I have with the repair is discharging the flash capacitor as I don't have any tools to do that. This is my biggest reservation about even trying--particularly if $45 could make the K50 operational again. Any advice on making a novice like me feel more comfortable dealing with the flash capacitor? Thx. JimC

05-09-2023, 07:38 AM	#7
texandrews Moderator Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Baltimore Photos: Albums Posts: 3,390	Just as a PSA: threads discussing solenoid issues have been fraught in the past. Let's all please make sure this one stays pleasant and informative.

05-09-2023, 07:56 AM	#8
JimmyC New Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 21 Original Poster	If I opt not to repair my K50 for fear of the flash capacitor, is there universal consensus that the solenoid issue is fully resolved in the K70's? B&H has the black/silver K70 on sale for $477 but the all black one is $527. Are these K70's camera identical except for the exterior difference of all black versus black/silver? The price difference seems to great to me for merely a cosmetic exterior appearance. Maybe I am just old to care. :-) B&H has significant selections of the k70's but only one for the Pentax KF ($847). Does anyone prefer the KF over the K70? I am reading reviews and the KF is newer but is it "better" ---built in Japan, other valued features that you experts like, etc.? All advice is welcome.

05-09-2023, 08:05 AM	#9
Barso Forum Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Newcastle upon Tyne, England Posts: 85	Originally posted by JimmyC MarcusBMG, thanks for the advice. The only trepidation I have with the repair is discharging the flash capacitor as I don't have any tools to do that. This is my biggest reservation about even trying--particularly if $45 could make the K50 operational again. Any advice on making a novice like me feel more comfortable dealing with the flash capacitor? Thx. JimC If memory serves right there is no need to go near the capacitor, just take the battery out first and handle it carefully.

05-09-2023, 08:16 AM	#10
JimmyC New Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 21 Original Poster	Barso--thank you. I am still "pondering" which direction to go in....Depending on if can get my wife to agree to increase my allowance, I may buy a k70 but I really WANT to ENSURE the solenoid issue is RESOLVED, otherwise I may have another sad day in the future when it has the same problem. JimC

05-09-2023, 09:13 AM	#11
roberrl Site Supporter Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Oxford, UK Photos: Gallery Posts: 345	I think it's worth considering a K5iiS, cheaper than a K3 but still completely avoiding the whole solenoid issue. I had one until recently and loved it, good solid build quality and all the usual Pentax handleability. With your lens collection KAF4 compatibility isn't an issue.

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05-09-2023, 09:35 AM - 1 Like	#12
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,520	Originally posted by JimmyC MarcusBMG, thanks for the advice. The only trepidation I have with the repair is discharging the flash capacitor as I don't have any tools to do that. This is my biggest reservation about even trying--particularly if $45 could make the K50 operational again. Any advice on making a novice like me feel more comfortable dealing with the flash capacitor? Thx. JimC Don't even worry about discharging it, if you follow my advice if you don't want to discharge it (see link) and you leave the K50 switched off for a couple of days after that procedure, then you don't risk anything. Here both options: How to discharge the photo-flash capacitor of a DSLR (here K-30/K-50/K-500) - PentaxForums.com But... yet... everybody would be able to buy an old fashioned light-bulb (no matter how many watts, lets say from 15W up to 100W is fine) and connect to to 2 wires. Repairing a K50 or not: If you feel you can do it, it is no question, you won't get a cheaper still very well working Pentax for around US$ 50! And don't go for any other solenoid then the Japan DSLR version, which is offered by seller potmano on ebay.com. This is safe and sound. Forget any others offered on ebay USA. But who knows, maybe some member here has a spare one. Good luck ... and "dare"! PS: A new K50 will most likely develop the same problem. Particular "because it is new and thus wasn't used for a loooong time: Highly possible the solenoid will be stuck" I like the K-5IIs, it is a great body, better than the K50 if you know what you do but ... the K50 will work for a long time after it got the Japan DSLR Solenoid!

05-09-2023, 09:44 AM	#13
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,520	Originally posted by texandrews Just as a PSA: Threads discussing solenoid issues have been fraught in the past. Let's all please make sure this one stays pleasant and informative. Don't worry: In the past, yes, because many didn't believe it, felt those who "stood up" are trying to blame/hurt Pentax. I know the facts very well and since it became clear that the K-70 was hit as well and since I proved the facts with this thread: A little bit of history of the solenoid in Pentax cameras This "history-thread" shall be updated soon with some more "special facts"

05-09-2023, 09:48 AM	#14
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,520	Originally posted by Barso If memory serves right there is no need to go near the capacitor, just take the battery out first and handle it carefully. NO NO NO NO NO!!! Not good to give such advice if you aren't sure: With the K30/50/500 there are contacts which you can touch and get a shock. It isn't a nasty shock but a bit unpleasant. It is not the contacts of the capacitor itself but contacts on the board which you most likely will tough! So you have to make sure you discharge it! With the K-S1, K-S2 and K-70 it is much less risk to get a shock, I never had to discharge the capacitor with those!

05-09-2023, 10:03 AM	#15
photogem Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2015 Posts: 3,520	Originally posted by allanmh Personally, I wouldn't bother repairing the K50. I have botht the K30 and the K50, and none of them have failed so far You are very lucky. Possibly because you used them very regularely. In the German Pentaxforum 151 members had ABF with the K30, 69 members were luck (last vote was in the year 2021!) That's 69% and I bet now, in the year 2023 at least half of those remaining 31% won't work either! That is my experience, I would say almost every K30 which isn't used over a longer period will develop ABF. This is "in the nature of solenoid generation-1", it is prone to fail. You find this one in all K30's, all K500's and 70% of all K50's. 52% of all K50's were hit with ABF, but again: of the remaining 48% I bet that a third of them developed ABF as well.