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09-27-2012, 08:30 AM - 1 Like   #46
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If the Samyang costs 999, it's cheaper than to buy a fullframe for a 35mm you own.

09-27-2012, 03:28 PM   #47
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QuoteOriginally posted by eurostar Quote
That's what I was thrying to say.
I apologize, I don't know how, but I completely read that wrong :P Lack of sleep etc.. Glad to see we agree
09-28-2012, 06:22 AM   #48
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Want a budget tilt-shift for your k-mount lenses? Don't want to build your own mechanism using bits from a bellows?

On the 'Bay you can grab a generic K-mount to MFT (Micro Four Thirds) adapter for about 40. And then buy an older model Olympus PEN for about 100 quid. All your older lenses with aperture dials now function just fine. (No AF but you wouldn't be using AF for this application anyway!)
10-02-2012, 05:52 AM   #49
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24mm in APS-C is NOT wide enough for architecture.

To really be happy with this lens, most will need to be using FF. Exteriors might be ok if you compose properly and have control over where you stand, but interior with 24mm is out of the question.

For Pentax atm you're better off using the DA 12-24 or Sigma 10-20 and photoshop the distortion.

For $1400 you can get a used Canon 5D classic + 24mm TS mkI, which is infinitely more versatile, even if the corners are not stellar

Can anyone tell me what they're planning to use this lens for if they buy it in pentax mount? I think it has its applications in other types of photography.

10-02-2012, 06:16 AM   #50
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QuoteOriginally posted by Andi Lo Quote
Can anyone tell me what they're planning to use this lens for if they buy it in pentax mount?
For fun. For video and time lapse to get that miniaturization effect. For closeups (depending on MFD and/or how it performs on extension) For, yes, architecture, cityscapes, and other subjects where perspective control is helpful. For exaggerated effects (shift the "wrong" way, selective focus). Because I've always wanted to try T/S.
10-02-2012, 06:52 AM   #51
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QuoteOriginally posted by Andi Lo Quote
24mm in APS-C is NOT wide enough for architecture.

To really be happy with this lens, most will need to be using FF. Exteriors might be ok if you compose properly and have control over where you stand, but interior with 24mm is out of the question.

For Pentax atm you're better off using the DA 12-24 or Sigma 10-20 and photoshop the distortion.

For $1400 you can get a used Canon 5D classic + 24mm TS mkI, which is infinitely more versatile, even if the corners are not stellar

Can anyone tell me what they're planning to use this lens for if they buy it in pentax mount? I think it has its applications in other types of photography.
*Any* focal length can be used for architecture. I am yet to encounter the first building that refuses to be photographed because I mounted a "wrong" focal length...

Seriously, of course wider than 24mm on APS-C is *mostly* better when you want to capture *entire* buildings or interiors. But, 24mm (36mm equiv) starts getting wide enough compared to previous offerings for K-mount. I still remember the days when all I had was a 35-70 standard zoom on my SFXn, and 35mm was as wide as I could manage for wide architecture. I managed all right though, so I cannot see why a 24mm T/S on APS-C would be that different... Granted, I did buy a 24mm lens for my SFXn after two years or so (even before I got a telezoom), but for the next 12 years or so I continued to use the standard zoom for most architecture shots nevertheless. Of course, styles may vary (not that I had much of a style in those days )...

On the subject of getting a wider lens and applying perspective correction in Photoshop, I can only say that it's not always easy to frame shots intended for correction properly. Not only do you need to frame wide enough to retain enough background subject matter after correction (though Photoshop's content aware fill may help a bit to "restore" some of it), achieving a pleasing composition to fit in the frame of your picture isn't obvious either. That's assuming the end result is aimed to be in a "standard" aspect ration like 3:2. If you value composition, a T/S really must be preferred IMHO. But perhaps I'm just bad at estimating the impact of perspective correction in PP?

And then there's the question of quality loss some PP may cause... Whether that's important depends on the intended output size, so again it may or may not be an issue.

So, yes, I do think it may be an interesting lens for architecture. Next to that 24mm is a nice walk around focal length. At least for me it is. I took out an old Vivitar MC24/2.8 as a single walk around lens on various occasions and found it a great focal length in APS-C. Since I'm a "slow" photographer, having T/S with the same FOV opens up new creative possibilities.

In short: there's a lot I'm not sure about in terms of photography related purchases in the near future (e.g. keep K-5 or upgrade to K-5IIs), but this lens is the investment I'm most likely to make...

Wim
10-07-2012, 06:17 PM   #52
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QuoteOriginally posted by Andi Lo Quote
24mm in APS-C is NOT wide enough for architecture.
Perhaps not for interiors, unless one learns how to stitch. But that's easy these days, right?
10-08-2012, 05:30 PM   #53
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Tilt and shift and stich? Sounds like it wouldn't stich very well, but I haven't thought too much about it, either.

10-08-2012, 05:48 PM   #54
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QuoteOriginally posted by ElJamoquio Quote
Tilt and shift and stich? Sounds like it wouldn't stich very well, but I haven't thought too much about it, either.
I don't (yet) have any T/S experience, but I gather that: you're less likely to want to use tilt for an interior shot, and; you can use shift to get a no-parallax set of shots for stitching.
10-08-2012, 05:57 PM   #55
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Yup, if you could guarantee no-parallax shots you can stitch easily.
10-08-2012, 07:17 PM   #56
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QuoteOriginally posted by ElJamoquio Quote
Yup, if you could guarantee no-parallax shots you can stitch easily.
I'm not sure about your meaning here, but stitching landscape photos taken through my K28/3.5 shift isn't that much of a big deal. Controlling the CA at the edges is a bit more work, granted. Of course, if you move the lens sideways and the subject is too close, you'll get obvious parallax differences, so I guess your tongue might have been in your cheek there.
10-09-2012, 03:56 AM   #57
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QuoteOriginally posted by RobA_Oz Quote
if you move the lens sideways and the subject is too close, you'll get obvious parallax differences
My mistake -- I've never used a shift lens and had the (mistaken) impression you could shift without parallax errors.
10-09-2012, 07:26 AM   #58
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The only way to avoid parallax errors is to rotate the lens/camera system along a point in space that is defined by the optical formula of the lens. Any other rotation will introduce parallax errors. The parallax error will be proportional to the distance of the object with distant objects having less parallax. In a control setting you can actually calculate the distance of on object from the parallax error.

Parallax is not an issue in most landscape pictures as long as the camera is on a leveled tripod and there are not object in the near foreground. I even stitched panoramas successfully from handheld images. For interior shots, where the distances are much shorter and you have objects in different planes, it is very important to minimize (or eliminate) parallax to successfully stitch the images.
02-18-2013, 11:54 AM   #59
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damnt, seems no pentax mount so far ... Samyang T-S 24mm f/3.5 ED AS UMC tilt-shift lens US pricing revealed | Photo Rumors
02-18-2013, 12:22 PM   #60
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QuoteOriginally posted by infoomatic Quote
Not a good sign. I will be rather sad if samyang abandons us.
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