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02-14-2014, 11:05 PM   #31
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This is definitely on my radar! Finally an ultra wide rectilinear prime! I eagerly await samples...

02-24-2014, 09:51 AM   #32
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Never used a Samyang. Thoughts from those who have used their lenses?
02-24-2014, 11:48 AM   #33
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Nice build, good weight to them without being heavy, superb optics for the price, (weirdly) some of the best coma corrected lenses, bad flare resistance, very varying calibration from the factory.
05-06-2014, 03:16 PM   #34
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Just got my Rokinon-branded version of this lens today. It's big, it's heavy. The first few shots out of it look okay. It's not the sharpest lens I've ever seen, but it's way better than my film-era Vivitar 19mm.

The instruction sheet that came with it says the lens hood is "detachable", but neglects to mention any way to remove it. It seems very firmly affixed to me!

A bit of experimenting located infinity focus about halfway between the infinity mark and the 1m mark -- and the ring doesn't stop at the infinity mark either. I guess I'll have to mark infinity with a piece of tape, and then just ignore the rest of the markings??

The instruction sheet says it "supports Av mode" on Pentax, and then provides instructions -- which are helpful. I probably would have tried to do it by turning the aperture ring. Err... What is the aperture ring for, I wonder, if we don't even use it when shooting in Av?

05-06-2014, 03:24 PM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tony Belding Quote
The instruction sheet says it "supports Av mode" on Pentax, and then provides instructions -- which are helpful. I probably would have tried to do it by turning the aperture ring. Err... What is the aperture ring for, I wonder, if we don't even use it when shooting in Av?
I think they're just trying to say that the "A" setting is there. The aperture ring is pointless on digital except when using macro/close-up accessories without electrical contacts.

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05-06-2014, 05:47 PM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by Adam Quote
I think they're just trying to say that the "A" setting is there. The aperture ring is pointless on digital except when using macro/close-up accessories without electrical contacts.
By the way... I did put it on my ZX-5n and take a peek through the viewfinder. I could see the outline of the lens hood running all the way around the frame!
05-06-2014, 07:12 PM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tony Belding Quote
By the way... I did put it on my ZX-5n and take a peek through the viewfinder. I could see the outline of the lens hood running all the way around the frame!
It's made for APS-C and won't cover the 35mm frame, so that's not surprising.
05-07-2014, 10:03 AM   #38
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I wonder what it would look like on FF with the lens hood detached, if it truly is detachable.

05-07-2014, 11:11 AM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by K David Quote
I wonder what it would look like on FF with the lens hood detached, if it truly is detachable.
A circle with the edges blacked out, like pretty much every non-fisheye wide angle APS-C lens on FF.
05-07-2014, 11:41 AM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by Cannikin Quote
A circle with the edges blacked out, like pretty much every non-fisheye wide angle APS-C lens on FF.
But its still good to make sure. Some Pentax DA lenses cover the FF image circle.
And I remember a lot of people used to cut off the hood of some Samyang lens so the hood wouldn't make the image circle even smaller, then they used it on FF cameras (was it the 8mm?). anyway, Samyang then started making that lens with a detachable hood just for that reason.
05-07-2014, 02:12 PM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by Adam Quote
I think they're just trying to say that the "A" setting is there. The aperture ring is pointless on digital except when using macro/close-up accessories without electrical contacts.
The aperture ring also makes it possible to adapt your lens to other mounts, such as Canon EF.
05-12-2014, 05:49 PM   #42
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I hate to say it, but I've decided to send the 10mm lens back. Not only does the focus ring not stop at infinity, all the markings appear to be off, and the ring turns more easily than I think it should. All of this I could live with, but it does add up to a nuisance.

The other thing I realized is that I can do practically everything this lens does with the 7.5mm fisheye on my Olympus. I got PTLens software, so I can de-fish the images, and the IQ is actually pretty closely comparable. It's way smaller and lighter, only one stop slower, the focus ring works perfectly, and each shot I snap is potentially both a fisheye and a rectilinear image. (But I do have to mind the aperture ring, since it's all manual.)
05-13-2014, 09:11 AM   #43
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tony Belding Quote
The other thing I realized is that I can do practically everything this lens does with the 7.5mm fisheye on my Olympus. I got PTLens software, so I can de-fish the images, and the IQ is actually pretty closely comparable. It's way smaller and lighter, only one stop slower, the focus ring works perfectly, and each shot I snap is potentially both a fisheye and a rectilinear image. (But I do have to mind the aperture ring, since it's all manual.)
Always been a little curious about this. Do you lose some width in the de-fishing process?
05-13-2014, 03:05 PM - 1 Like   #44
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QuoteOriginally posted by DogLover Quote
Always been a little curious about this. Do you lose some width in the de-fishing process?
Sort of. Imagine drawing crosshairs through the central point of your image. You won't lose anything from the image where those lines run, directly on the vertical or horizontal axis. The further you move towards the corners, the more of the image will be stretched out of the frame.

Let me see if I can offer an example. You start with something like this:



Then the software distorts it to something like this:



Then it crops down to this:



PTLens also has some limited ability to rotate and correct the horizontal or vertical perspective, if you didn't get it spot-on. That's why this image looks as though it was cropped a little more on some sides than on others.
05-13-2014, 03:56 PM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tony Belding Quote
Sort of. Imagine drawing crosshairs through the central point of your image. You won't lose anything from the image where those lines run, directly on the vertical or horizontal axis. The further you move towards the corners, the more of the image will be stretched out of the frame.

Let me see if I can offer an example. You start with something like this:



Then the software distorts it to something like this:



Then it crops down to this:



PTLens also has some limited ability to rotate and correct the horizontal or vertical perspective, if you didn't get it spot-on. That's why this image looks as though it was cropped a little more on some sides than on others.
I see. Well, that doesn't seem too bad. Worth trying. I've got a good Sigma 10 FE, if I can do a reasonable facsimile of a 10mm rectilinear then more than doubles the usefulness of the lens. Thanks for the info!
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