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10-22-2015, 06:30 AM   #1186
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QuoteOriginally posted by biz-engineer Quote
Yes, k-3 playback you can see the AF points that were selected, you have to select the right display mode.
I'm pretty sure even K-7 did that the same way.

10-22-2015, 09:06 AM   #1187
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QuoteOriginally posted by rawr Quote
Ah, I see what you mean. I should have noticed. On the K-3, press Play, press Info, select 'Detailed Information Display', and you will see a tiny display of the K-3 AF point matrix, with the active AF point indicated on the right of the screen, alongside a tiny image thumbnail on the left of the screen.

However with Nikon it's simpler - you can see a full size image on playback, with the AF points in use overlaid right on top of the shot image. You can see exactly what the AF points were on top of.
Nikon's playback info displaying is definitely one of the best implementations in the industry. On the 4-way controller, pressing left/right scrolls from image to image, and pressing up/down toggles the different infos. Easy-peasy, no fiddling with other buttons or menu options. You can also completely hide various info display modes, so that for example pressing up/down ONLY toggles between a full-screen view and a RGB histogram.

Oh, and that reminds me, Nikon offers "blinking highlight warning" for individual RGB channels, for those folks who like to keep an eye on their red channel when shooting sunsets or portraits. :-)

=Matt=
10-22-2015, 10:28 AM   #1188
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Hope FF has a pro mount!

OK maybe a double post,but I really hope the FF lens mount is made for professional use..my K3II+ DA300 in a lowepro toploader case(xtra padding in bottom as well),fell about 30-40cm on a wood floor & this is what happened. The lens mount was getting a bit loose,as I use the 150-450 as my main lens,& its too heavy I think for the mount system. Have dropped my K5II before with DA300 & no damage--Ok I was unlucky here
Now if the FF was available now, I could buy it..but won't fix the K3II if it costs more than 1/2 a new one,as lens mount + 150-450 are not so happy together
Will put my K5II ring on & see if AF & all other functions still work..if so a cheap fix then
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10-22-2015, 11:26 AM   #1189
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QuoteOriginally posted by Shanti Quote
I use the 150-450 as my main lens,& its too heavy I think for the mount system.
I don't understand, Shanti.

What is your technique holding it?

The mount should be bearing the weight of the camera, not the lens.

10-22-2015, 11:47 AM   #1190
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QuoteOriginally posted by Shanti Quote
OK maybe a double post,but I really hope the FF lens mount is made for professional use..my K3II+ DA300 in a lowepro toploader case(xtra padding in bottom as well),fell about 30-40cm on a wood floor & this is what happened.
I'm not sure "professional use" cameras are designed to be dropped, either.
I don't mean to pick on you here, but what should the drop threshold be? Yours dropped possibly 40cm and didn't survive. Should it be able to survive a 40cm drop? 50? 75? This is a bit like running into a light pole with your car, denting the bumper, and blaming it on a too weak bumper.

QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
The mount should be bearing the weight of the camera, not the lens.
Right. That's why there's a tripod mount on large lenses. Holding only the camera body puts the same stress on the lens mount as mounting the body (instead of the lens) on a tripod.
10-22-2015, 12:27 PM - 3 Likes   #1191
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QuoteOriginally posted by Shanti Quote
OK maybe a double post, [...]
Hey! Be positive! You've got yourself a full range of tilt lenses!
10-22-2015, 12:40 PM   #1192
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You should never leave a heavy glass like the 300 f4 attached to a camera in a bag. It should be stored separately and attached in the field.
10-22-2015, 01:49 PM   #1193
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For some perspective I work with landing gear made of high strength steel (300 KSI tensile strength).
I have had to scrap parts that were dropped from that distance (depending on the surface it was dropped onto, and what orientation).
Good luck finding a camera that was designed to meet your requirements.

10-22-2015, 01:52 PM   #1194
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
I don't understand, Shanti.

What is your technique holding it?

The mount should be bearing the weight of the camera, not the lens.
Taking in & out of bag with grip on is only time lens(150-450) is not supported,or when hanging around my neck with a neoprene strap.

its in a holster bag so I can get it quick,in case of low flying birds

---------- Post added 10-22-15 at 10:55 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Parallax Quote
I'm not sure "professional use" cameras are designed to be dropped, either.
I don't mean to pick on you here, but what should the drop threshold be? Yours dropped possibly 40cm and didn't survive. Should it be able to survive a 40cm drop? 50? 75? This is a bit like running into a light pole with your car, denting the bumper, and blaming it on a too weak bumper.

Right. That's why there's a tripod mount on large lenses. Holding only the camera body puts the same stress on the lens mount as mounting the body (instead of the lens) on a tripod.
Yes I know that,its just I imagine the D4 or Canon whatever has a stronger mount system than plastic. My old SLR's could take a beating & survive .

---------- Post added 10-22-15 at 10:56 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by deus ursus Quote
Hey! Be positive! You've got yourself a full range of tilt lenses!
No only 1--the 300 left tilt shift for crooked birds
10-22-2015, 10:08 PM   #1195
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Never had any issue with Pentax bodies, but I'm rather careful with my equipment, it's rather expensive so I don't carry cameras like a bag of potatoes. I don't how people manage to drop their cameras or break them, although I findd weird that for the said magnesium alloy body of the K-3, the metal ring mount is actually screwed on plastic.... I'd have assumed that the ring is mounted on the magnesium alloy chassis.
10-22-2015, 10:12 PM   #1196
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QuoteOriginally posted by biz-engineer Quote
Never had any issue with Pentax bodies, but I'm rather careful with my equipment, it's rather expensive so I don't carry cameras like a bag of potatoes. I don't how people manage to drop their cameras or break them, although I findd weird that for the said magnesium alloy body of the K-3, the metal ring mount is actually screwed on plastic.... I'd have assumed that the ring is mounted on the magnesium alloy chassis.
Sacrificial breakage components are pretty standard in engineering design (shear pins in drive shafts etc). They're designed to prevent more catastrophic damage in other components.
10-22-2015, 10:20 PM   #1198
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QuoteOriginally posted by RobA_Oz Quote
Sacrificial breakage components are pretty standard in engineering design (shear pins in drive shafts etc). They're designed to prevent more catastrophic damage in other components.
Lol, yeah good point, you are right, well, as I can see the way it's broken, I don't thing the ring mount "backbone" as any sacrificial nature, does not look easy to repair.

---------- Post added 23-10-15 at 07:26 ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by CypherOz Quote
Pics of FF Photo Plus 2015: First Glimpse at Pentax Full-Frame DSLR! | Expert photography blogs, tip, techniques, camera reviews - Adorama Learning Center
Looks good. No pop-up flash, possibly hosting in camera GPS (same as K-3II), bright viewfinder and additional manual controls. A tilt screen like D750. So, a kind a D750 but better in several different areas ?
10-23-2015, 02:50 AM   #1199
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QuoteOriginally posted by biz-engineer Quote
Lol, yeah good point, you are right, well, as I can see the way it's broken, I don't thing the ring mount "backbone" as any sacrificial nature, does not look easy to repair.[COLOR="Silver"]
Well let imagine for a second if the mount in the above was bonded to the steel sub-frame (Pentaxs have magnesium shells not innards)

The force the managed to twist the brass mount would have been more than capable of twisting the sub-frame so instead of needing a new mount and re-calibration (about $300 of parts+labour) you need a full strip down chassis change + Mount + recal about $2000 parts+labour)

So the camera that was repairable is now so much scrap but at least the mount was attached such to cause maximum damage in a accident but keep the plebeian's happy

In any catastrophic trauma something is going to break well designed equipment ensure what breaks is the easiest to fix.... In the above example Pentax get 10/10 the camera broke in such a manner to it appear protect the lens and the body.

Which given most DA* lens have a break point just behind there own mount was a job well done (both didn't; snap as they absorbed the abuse)

As to ease of repair any k7,k5,k5ii,k3,k3ii mount can be bolted on (after fill and re-drilling the pulled screw) and the camera will function the AF module may need re-seating (shock damage) and in any case the camera would need calibrating ... But 5 screws to fix is easy in my book.

Last edited by awaldram; 10-23-2015 at 02:58 AM.
10-23-2015, 11:20 AM   #1200
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QuoteOriginally posted by awaldram Quote
Well let imagine for a second if the mount in the above was bonded to the steel sub-frame (Pentaxs have magnesium shells not innards)

The force the managed to twist the brass mount would have been more than capable of twisting the sub-frame so instead of needing a new mount and re-calibration (about $300 of parts+labour) you need a full strip down chassis change + Mount + recal about $2000 parts+labour)

So the camera that was repairable is now so much scrap but at least the mount was attached such to cause maximum damage in a accident but keep the plebeian's happy

In any catastrophic trauma something is going to break well designed equipment ensure what breaks is the easiest to fix.... In the above example Pentax get 10/10 the camera broke in such a manner to it appear protect the lens and the body.

Which given most DA* lens have a break point just behind there own mount was a job well done (both didn't; snap as they absorbed the abuse)

As to ease of repair any k7,k5,k5ii,k3,k3ii mount can be bolted on (after fill and re-drilling the pulled screw) and the camera will function the AF module may need re-seating (shock damage) and in any case the camera would need calibrating ... But 5 screws to fix is easy in my book.
Have put my K5II mount on & AF works fine so far,no damage to DA300.just hit floor at wrong angle,as lowerpro was well padded in the bottom
screw mount only needed some thin filler material

---------- Post added 10-23-15 at 08:24 PM ----------

New FF info from a trusted dealer
super fast software-- but still testing therefore delay..it has to work 100% before release
surprise inside..very hush hush?? my guess OVF+EVF as such a big hump
sensor 40mp +
will know more soon I was told...
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