[todd]

no reason not to do it.

SoCaNikon don't have it either right? So if nobody (no dslr maker) is doing it, maybe there is some legal or other reason they don't?

Anyone who can operate a camera off 'auto' mode can do it their head as I'm sure you can.

Or you can be like me and just turn it on for as long as you feel like.. I just turned it off when I got tired and wanted to pack it up and hit the tent...

[jatrax]

Nice! Light painted? or just ambient on the Joshua tree?

[todd]

Nice! Light painted? or just ambient on the Joshua tree?

Thanks. Lit by our camp fire and then some cars were driving around the campground a little bit over the half hour or so the shutter was open...

[Halide]

I believe that the Usb 3 downgrade to usb 2 micro is probably true.
I used to own a Samsung Note 3 phone that used the same usb 3 connector as on the K-3, I have since upgraded to the Note 4, and it was downgraded to usb 2 micro, and it stayed the same for the latest Note 5.

It makes no difference in use, Who transfers images directly from the camera anyway? I use an SD card reader(usb3) doesn't everyone?

(I use tethering with my Canon 70D and it uses Mini Usb 2)

---

Last edited by Halide; 02-16-2016 at 12:36 AM. Reason: clarifying that Usb2 is fine!

[biz-engineer]

Even in APS-C mode it still has to move a much bigger mirror and shutter for each frame.

People have to realize about the practical difference between 8.3 FPS and 5 FPS... on paper there is a difference, but when AF tracking there is no difference if the 8.3 FPS camera AF has a slow AF tracking system. For example, the D7200 has a lower FPS spec than the K-3, but in practice, it's the same because the D7200 AF is able to track faster, while the K-3 AF tacking will slow down the camera from 8.3 FPS to 4 FPS. That's why if the K-1 AF system is improved versus the K-3 version, you may no see any difference in actual FPS keepers between a 4 FPS K-1 and a 8 FPS K-3.

---------- Post added 16-02-16 at 07:12 ----------

Usb downgrade is believable I believe that the Usb 3 downgrade to usb 2 micro is probably true. I used to own a Samsung Note 3 phone that used the same usb 3 connector as on the K-3, I have since upgraded to the Note 4, and it was downgraded to usb 2 micro, and it stayed the same for the latest Note 5.

Yes it's possible , with the aim of cost reduction, if the goal is to offer a the equivalent of a D750 with a 36Mp sensor on board. For me, the K-1 is a D750 with a better/smaller body and a 36Mp inside, and that probably what the average Pentaxian population is hoping for.

[repaap]

People have to realize about the practical difference between 8.3 FPS and 5 FPS... on paper there is a difference, but when AF tracking there is no difference if the 8.3 FPS camera AF has a slow AF tracking system. For example, the D7200 has a lower FPS spec than the K-3, but in practice, it's the same because the D7200 AF is able to track faster, while the K-3 AF tacking will slow down the camera from 8.3 FPS to 4 FPS. That's why if the K-1 AF system is improved versus the K-3 version, you may no see any difference in actual FPS keepers between a 4 FPS K-1 and a 8 FPS K-3.

---------- Post added 16-02-16 at 07:12 ----------



Yes it's possible , with the aim of cost reduction, if the goal is to offer a the equivalent of a D750 with a 36Mp sensor on board. For me, the K-1 is a D750 with a better/smaller body and a 36Mp inside, and that probably what the average Pentaxian population is hoping for.

you'v got it wrong. K-1 is just K-1. it is not Nikon, or Canon, or Sony. You'd prefer Nikon, so maybe that is for you. For me it is Pentax, because I have got used to it, and have lenses for it and I like how Pentax cameras work. But I'm average, I guess.

[Kunzite]

Those number are weird. I've gotten over 800 shots on the K-3 with one battery (and without running it empty). No flash, daytime, jpgs. No problems or complains with the K-3 battery life, and don't see why the K-1 would be any different (well actually it should have much better battery life).

The number of frames for a battery charge are measured according to the CIPA methodology, which includes using flash for 50% of the images.
Wait a minute... that might explain the difference. Now I'm no longer convinced the K-1 is more power efficient than the lower resolution (but faster fps) K-3.

[Halide]

Thou shalt not spill thy actuations in vain

That's Hilarious! as in...

You Tube

You Tube

Was Cartier Bresson Catholic?[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added 02-16-16 at 02:26 AM ----------

[PiDicus Rex]

Reading first page of thread,..... Zero details on Video specs?

Swapping USB3 out for USB2 would slow down data transfer, but may make Tethering easier - it's dependent on the Tether-enabled applications compatibility.

[PiDicus Rex]

Originally posted by clockworkrat

Quote How's the 5 axis shake reduction supposed to work?
On Sony and Olympus they have OIS lenses which add the extra 2 axes.

Quote Originally posted by Winder
Quote Olympus has 5 axis in-body. Its not new.

Not everything has to be new in order to be useful.

Yup, How old is Sensor Shift on Pentax's ?

And now that it's available in Video Mode on other brands, perhaps Pentax will realise how silly it was to turn it off after the K-5.

[jaad75]

There is about 1/3rd of a stop more shadow detail, but at ISO 80 you lose highlight headroom - hence the term "pull" ISO: the camera is basically overexposing and pulling the image back, so you have to be careful with overexposing.

That's just not true. ISO80 was a true base ISO for the IMX071. No pull down at all. The highest analog gain for that sensor was about ISO1000, so everything up was just a digital "push".

Seems the image processor might be limiting performance because full-frame continuous shooting is limited to 4.4 fps.

The regular IMX094 is limited to 4.7 fps itself. It's rather indication of an older sensor than a processor. However the Milbeaut 7 alias PRIME III would do for this camera as well (just by looking at those specs).

Ricoh increases the SR rating for the K-3 II, but I don't think anyone has proven a difference over the K-3. So maybe, maybe not..

They just switch to CIPA standards specs for the K-3II. Tests didn't show any improvement.

A higher sync speed requires your flash duration to be longer than the sync speed (specialised equipment).

Not that "specialised". T.1 for most cheap, regular, voltage controlled strobes at lower settings are longer than 1/200s. The same goes for most speedlights at 1/1. The real problem is to get the pre-sync signal and delay strobes accordingly, cause it goes on side pins of a hotshoe, not the middle. If the central pin would provide regular sync signal above 1/180/1/200th, you would still have a problem with the highest flash peak within the frame. Pre-sync&delay allows to make the transition soft by cancelling the highest peak at the cost of overall brightness.

[Simen1]

It is also ISO 204,800 instead of the 51,200 the D810 has (expanded, Native 25,600) So maybe Sony have given Pentax the coming D900 or D820 sensor.

K-1 will be a high enough volume product that it can get its own sensor. I don't think we will see the exact same sensor in other brand cameras even if they have Sony manufacturing and Mp count in common.

Btw why can't we have longer exposure like 30min while medium format can expose up to 60min?

I agree. It would be very easy to just add it in the menu. When doing astrophotography you don't want to ruin the night vision by using a smartphone or fiddling with a remote that is easily lost in the darkness.

Just add 1 min, 2, 4, 8, 15, 30 and 1 hour or even more. I don't need 1/3 stop steps. Use single big stopper and you can get whole night star trails. Use two and you can get the sun curve from sunrise to sunset.

[Kunzite]

They just switch to CIPA standards specs for the K-3II. Tests didn't show any improvement.

Which tests?
Ricoh Imaging claims an upgraded SR system, using a new, high precision gyro sensor. And the 3.5 stops for the K-3 are also measured using the CIPA standard.

[Rondec]

I don't have a GR.

Well, no it is not. You just use bulb mode and set what time you want.

Ok, that is a valid complaint. But outside of that I guess I'm not missing anything.

I really don't understand the idea of not wanting to carry another accessory around -- it isn't like these are going to be "spontaneous" shots. A two or three minute exposure isn't going to happen out of the clear blue. You are out there shooting with an SLR and a sturdy tripod. How hard is it to stick a remote in your bag or pocket to take with you?.

And in point of fact, unless you use the self timer option, your shots are going to be better using some type of remote than they will if you push the shutter button with your finger anyway.

[JinDesu]

Even the timer option isn't that great. I've had shots ruined by the mirror flapping up even with a steady tripod. It's way more reliable to do it by MLO and remote in bulb.