Originally posted by house I find edges almost more important for UWA's that for tele. Teles naturally pick things out whilst UWA's show it all. Context tend to become the subject. Tree branches or lines in facades etc. reveal aberrations in a very brutal way when you can't hide the faults in bokeh.The aperture range between say f4 and f11 becomes critical, almost no oof blur at f4 already. At f2 or so you get some oof areas and you start "feeling" the lens a bit and aberrations can form part of the image.
F8 is to late to clear up, shutter speeds become to long in quite a lot of conditions.
Oh, I understand
why you'd want to have the corners pick up quickly - it's just that I personally use my M20/4 for only some specific things... close quarters while hiking, interiors, and architecture. In most of those cases the slight blur that comes from being out of focus and the softness can lead the viewer more to the center of the image - I find the effect similar to the human eye's degradation of IQ around the peripheral view.
With the K-1, f/8 is typically alright in any kind of daylight, particularly with an UWA; 0.3" shutter speed is pretty easy to get right consistently, and I don't really mind ISO 1600 or 3200 either. But of course, I rarely shoot moving subjects with the M20...
EDIT: I forgot to add that where I
do find edges important is in lenses around standard length... since I tend to use 28-70mm to shoot landscapes.