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01-20-2014, 12:56 AM   #1
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GR -- need help setting JPG color tone

Need advice on adjusting the GR's JPG color tone. To my eye, it's a little too strong on greens -- so I want to shift that a bit toward magenta. Was able to do this on an Olympus XZ-1... is there a similar adjustment buried somewhere in my GR's menus?

01-21-2014, 08:13 PM   #2
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I think perhaps the lack of responses here, Jon probably means that most people might be thinking along the lines of; "Wait - he has a RICOH GR, a flagship APS-C compact and he's not shooting RAW!? "
The whole point to RAW is that you get to choose the result, not so much the camera's JPEG engine.
01-21-2014, 11:25 PM   #3
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Lack of responses -- might also be that there aren't that many GR owners yet! Anyway, of course you're right about RAW, but I like JPGs because you don't have to go through that extra RAW processing step... which takes a while on my little netbook. Maybe I should get a Microsoft Surface Pro, should be faster but also with a keyboard? Noticed that Microsoft is opening stores -- there's one here in San Diego. We'll see.

Lightroom and Xara Photo & Graphic Designer both do a great job with JPGs. And in most cases, I just don't need to shoot RAW -- particularly since I'm greatly reducing the images (even when cropped) for web display. And that JPG reduction acts somewhat like the RAW-to-JPG process, as far as smoothing out photographic sins.

But that's just me. Can't argue with RAW for the best possible image quality; will get with the program if I ever make large prints.
01-23-2014, 05:32 PM - 1 Like   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by jon404 Quote
Need advice on adjusting the GR's JPG color tone. To my eye, it's a little too strong on greens -- so I want to shift that a bit toward magenta. Was able to do this on an Olympus XZ-1... is there a similar adjustment buried somewhere in my GR's menus?
Press first the WB button and then the Fn2 button. Then the white balance compensation screen appears.

01-23-2014, 08:59 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by jon404 Quote
Lightroom and Xara Photo & Graphic Designer both do a great job with JPGs.
Can't argue with the use of Xara software, but Lightroom for JPG? Overkill+++
That's like owning state-of-the-art film processing equipment in your own lab but opting to using a Polaroid camera instead because it's too much trouble to develop your own.
Do you use Lightroom catalogs for asset management?

QuoteQuote:
JPG reduction acts somewhat like the RAW-to-JPG process, as far as smoothing out photographic sins.
The point of RAW is apparently lost on you, Jon
01-23-2014, 09:33 PM   #6
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Thanks Limited -- that's exactly what I was looking for!

Steve -- well, I know that RAW processing, when you take a 1024-brightness-level image and convert it to a 256-level JPG, certainly eliminates banding and spikes and helps tremendously with a marginal picture. But most of the pictures I take are reasonably exposed, unless I'm running into extremely low light and there's nothing RAW can do about that.

I also know that RAW lets you use all the camera's WB settings, effects, etc -- but programs like Lightroom let me easily make similar adjustments to JPGs -- and changes that sometimes I really need, like modifying one particular color.

Will figure out how to assign the 'RAW + JPG' setting to one of the GR's buttons, like I did on my K-01.

Last edited by jon404; 01-23-2014 at 09:43 PM.
01-25-2014, 03:51 AM   #7
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Steve -- per your suggestion, started taking RAW images today and using FastStone as my DNG viewer. It is a lot faster than Lightroom. Will give it a good try and see if there's any practical advantage for shooting RAW -- for me, anyway. Stay tuned!
01-25-2014, 02:26 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by jon404 Quote
I know that RAW processing, when you take a 1024-brightness-level image and convert it to a 256-level JPG, certainly eliminates banding and spikes and helps tremendously with a marginal picture.
Could you explain what you mean by "take a 1024-brightness-level image and convert it to a 256-level JPG" ?

01-26-2014, 01:13 AM   #9
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Yes -- but I had the number wrong. It's a lot higher than 1024. From wiki -- "raw files have 12 or 14 bits of intensity information per channel (4096-16384 shades), compared to JPEG's gamma-compressed 8 bits (256 shades)." So -- after editing -- when you convert the raw data down to a 256-level JPG, you'll get a VERY smooth JPG... no banding, no posterization... artifacts that you might generate when you edit a JPG instead of editing in RAW. But JPGs are convenient, since the human eye just can't resolve any more than 256 shades. So... if you've got a good JPG, whether from RAW or not, that's as good as you'll get...
01-27-2014, 03:50 AM   #10
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What I was questioning was using the word 'brightness level' to describe colour depth and dynamic range (altitude)..

QuoteQuote:
So... if you've got a good JPG, whether from RAW or not, that's as good as you'll get..
On my home planet things are a little different.
01-30-2014, 12:07 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by jon404 Quote
Need advice on adjusting the GR's JPG color tone. To my eye, it's a little too strong on greens -- so I want to shift that a bit toward magenta. Was able to do this on an Olympus XZ-1... is there a similar adjustment buried somewhere in my GR's menus?
Back to original question. Default images from GR are a bit oversaturated. Go to camera menu->Image Settings. Use Standard instead of default Vivid or better yet, use Settings 1/2 and tailor it to your liking. For me it's Vividness 6, Contrast 6, Sharpness 5 which is somewhere in between Standard and Vivid and close to Pentax's Bright.
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