Originally posted by PONCET Thanks for your advices.
After all, the rangefinder is useless, what a pity !!
Other question, please :
In according to you, what's the best personnal functions for street pictures : :
-P, M, AV ou TAV
There's no TAv (except for M + Auto ISO).
Personally I'm always in Av. That's what I've always been used to (using the aperture ring in the old days), and it's possibly my only photography habit that hasn't changed over the decades...
Originally posted by PONCET -ISO auto or not
I try to keep my ISO as low as possible generally. However, if I'm in changing light that may get me in too long exposure times, I often go into Auto ISO. The GR III makes this very easy, because pressing Fn when adjusting ISO switches between Auto and fixed. I've set the minimum shutter speed to 1/10s for Auto ISO, so I have to keep that in mind when deciding between upping the ISO or switching to Auto ISO. If I want faster speeds, I up the ISO, but Auto ISO if I want maximum IQ that I can hand hold for a relatively static scene.
Originally posted by PONCET -Snap (at what distance?) or autofocus
This is down to personal preference... I see a lot of people prefer having AF and using full press snap focus at relatively short distance (as close as you are comfortable getting to your (unsuspecting?) subjects). I understand this is great for pure (intrusive) street photography, but that's not really my personal style.
I personally prefer taking off AF from the shutter button. I tried first to have AF on the Fn button (point select AF) and I enabled Touch screen AF as well. I found I used the latter almost exclusively. Full press snap focus doesn't work however if you take off the AF from the shutter release, so I was switching to snap focus mode every time I preferred that...
Until I found out that Touch screen AF overrides the snap distance when in Snap focus mode. Hence my Fn button is now the ND filter switch, and I'm constantly in Snap mode with Touch screen AF to override in case of critical focus (focus distance returns to snap distance after touching and releasing the shutter, picture or not).
My distance varies a lot. It sits mostly at 2.5m or 5m, depending on the light and the aperture I set. Being in Snap mode shows a distance and DoF scale on the screen, which I use as a guide.
Originally posted by PONCET What are the functions which can be ineffective to save the battery?
I keep the camera switched off as much as possible. It switches on so fast, which means I can push the power button while moving the camera in front of me and have it powered up and ready by the time my eye catches the screen. I'm a relatively selective shooter, so this gets me more than one day on one battery mostly, even when I shoot 10-20 image sequences in burst (I do this for low light static scenes, so I can remove high ISO noise by stacking/blending, as well for heavily cropped shots (e.g. 50mm crop mode) to be able to up the resolution through the same PP technique).
I'm not sure what feature is the most battery hungry. Many if not most blame the SR, but I've never noticed much impact of this on battery life in my Pentax DSLRs that share the same system. Of course, in the GR III it works all the time the screen is on, so perhaps it burns through more juice? Another culprit could be the touch screen. A few years ago I was investigating the smart watch market and noticed a big difference in battery life when comparing watches with touch screen and without touch screen.
Hope this helps?
grtz, Wim