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01-25-2022, 03:39 PM   #1
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3D/stereo photography with paired Ricoh GRIII/IIIx cameras or Pentax beam splitter

Wondering if anyone has experience or recommendations re syncing twin Ricoh GRIII /IIIx cameras or if the Pentax 3D beam splitter attachment will work on the GRIIIx & the stock filter/adapter attachment (The beam splitter is designed to attach to 50mm or equivalent APS-C lenses with 49 or 52mm filter thread mount.)

01-25-2022, 05:04 PM   #2
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You can sync cameras pretty well using a wired or wireless remote control. Used in that fashion, you can get wide format (1.5:1) images which can be cropped to the desired size using software like Stereophotomaker (see below). The prismatic approach can be used but I believe it yields phone type, portrait format images (side-by-side in a single image) which can be ok but are not usually that well suited for 3D display using a computer screen or home theater projection methods (unless you like the black sidebars and mostly empty screen space). Of course, you can crop the portrait format images to regular horizontal images, but you lose some resolution and have to plan the shots to allow cropping. The two camera approach also allows parallax adjustments for near objects although the setup is more complicated and alignment issues can exist. One issue with twin cameras can be getting them close enough so the lens positions approximate human eye spacing but this depends on the camera used (a lot more has to go into the mounting and aligning of the twin cameras).

http://stereo.jpn.org/eng/stphmkr/

Last edited by Bob 256; 01-25-2022 at 05:12 PM.
01-25-2022, 05:58 PM   #3
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If your subject(s) are stationary, you don't even need two cameras. Just take two pictures with the camera moved horizontaly between them.

You can use eye-separation spacing, or for a more egaggerated effect, move the camera farther apart between shots. I have used a baseline of a few feet to good effect for large scenic areas at a distance (i.e. Yosemite Valley).
01-25-2022, 10:43 PM   #4
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Beam splitter provides short baseline, well suited for 50mm lens at 3m distance. A wide angle could do with slightly longer baseline. The beam splitter allow perfect synch, any regular remote will have some delay. You can only test how long the delay is to judge how acceptable it is. Split second delay should be possible anyway,

01-26-2022, 03:07 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by Bob 256 Quote
You can sync cameras pretty well using a wired or wireless remote control. Used in that fashion, you can get wide format (1.5:1) images which can be cropped to the desired size using software like Stereophotomaker (see below). The prismatic approach can be used but I believe it yields phone type, portrait format images (side-by-side in a single image) which can be ok but are not usually that well suited for 3D display using a computer screen or home theater projection methods (unless you like the black sidebars and mostly empty screen space). Of course, you can crop the portrait format images to regular horizontal images, but you lose some resolution and have to plan the shots to allow cropping. The two camera approach also allows parallax adjustments for near objects although the setup is more complicated and alignment issues can exist. One issue with twin cameras can be getting them close enough so the lens positions approximate human eye spacing but this depends on the camera used (a lot more has to go into the mounting and aligning of the twin cameras).

StereoPhoto Maker (English)
Thanks Bob. I have been experimenting with the Pentax stereo attachment on a 35mm lens attached to a Fuji camera. This produces tall/narrow images by vertically splitting a single landscape oriented frame. I find the images OK for phone or iPad viewing but the camera set up is rather bulky with the lens & attachment. Iíve also experimented with the 3dsteroid phone app (which I think is based on the SPM software you linked) & it works well for phone camera photos of static subjects.
01-26-2022, 09:00 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by toddc4931 Quote
Thanks Bob. I have been experimenting with the Pentax stereo attachment on a 35mm lens attached to a Fuji camera. This produces tall/narrow images by vertically splitting a single landscape oriented frame. I find the images OK for phone or iPad viewing but the camera set up is rather bulky with the lens & attachment. Iíve also experimented with the 3dsteroid phone app (which I think is based on the SPM software you linked) & it works well for phone camera photos of static subjects.
Trying the method AstroDave suggested is worth it. For static subjects (non-changing), it works pretty well with a single camera, especially if the camera has a leveling reference you can use it keep the same vertical axis in both shots (no rotation between shots). When taking these, you generally want to set the center of the image on the subject of interest in both shots which adjusts for parallax, but that's a subject unto itself. Its downside is that if you have subject motion and changes from shot to shot, it isn't going to work too well, but it certainly is an easy way to go otherwise.

You should also try getting your hands on a 3D capable larger screen monitor (hard to get these days) or a 3D capable projector. 3D images really "POP" when they are large and they're nothing like you see them on a phone display.
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