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11-15-2013, 10:50 AM   #91
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Hmmm... I already justified a pain-in-the-ass camera to myself...

11-15-2013, 10:58 AM   #92
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QuoteOriginally posted by normhead Quote
Yes and no… I'd never use it over 400 ISO, it has no shake reduction, so you need to have it on a tripod for almost every shot (but you can use a really small light weight tripod). It takes 10 seconds to process between pictures, and the battery dies after about 80 images… but apart form those things… no.
So basicly it's like an old analoge camera, where you put in an 200 ASA film that sticks in it for the rest off the holiday. As long as you can work with that it's fine.
11-15-2013, 11:04 AM   #93
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QuoteOriginally posted by ElJamoquio Quote
Hmmm... I already justified a pain-in-the-ass camera to myself...
It's not the kind of thing most people do twice...

QuoteOriginally posted by RonHendriks1966 Quote
So basicly it's like an old analoge camera, where you put in an 200 ASA film that sticks in it for the rest off the holiday. As long as you can work with that it's fine.
You're starting to understand.

I carry this thing , because it's light, I don't really notice it tucked into the rest of my kit.. and some day it's going to get me a fantastic image. It's kind of like a lottery. I may never hit it big, but if I do, it's going to be spectacular.

More images here.

These images may look over sharpened in their reduced size. Pixel peeping they just look amazing.


Last edited by normhead; 11-15-2013 at 11:14 AM.
11-15-2013, 05:40 PM   #94
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i'm sure the DP2M is a good camera "when the stars align" but I prefer something more consistent like the 645D and Leica S2 that do not have proprietary RAW conversion software that isn't a pain to use.



11-15-2013, 06:32 PM   #95
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QuoteOriginally posted by Shanti Quote
by micro contrast do you mean unsharp mask settings in PS? are there any 'optimal' routines for getting the best from the K5II?
problem is I need a AWA lens so thus the dilemma..to get a 12-24 or 10-20 or go FF & get a AWA...the kit lens at 28 is not so great(but not bad for what it is..)

I do not use PS, but yes. I use 'clarity' in LR or 'structure' in NIK Viveza. Both work well, although LR increases overall contrast in the process, which can be a problem with contrasty images. Viveza increases micro-contrast without adding to overall contrast. The change is to seeable detail, as one cannot add what is not in the original, but it can be a dramatic improvement in some images if used with restraint. Too much added microcontrast can yield an unreal look.
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