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03-10-2015, 09:55 PM   #61
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QuoteOriginally posted by normhead Quote
Printing is an art all it's own... .
I managed the Stamp program for Australia Post for 5 years.....like most I couldn't initially appreciate all the work and skill that went into the pre-press, well after we thought we had the product/design etc finalised...... certainly was an eye opener (of course we were fussy...just like most of us would be on this forum with our prints)

03-11-2015, 12:57 PM   #62
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QuoteOriginally posted by normhead Quote
Printing is an art all it's own... I find just for starts, a print has to be 10% brighter than something to make up for that lack of backlight from your monitor, but we do have some amazing prints take with an Optio 80W, 10 MP camera. It makes more work to get a good print than it does to do your initial processing for the web.

Many people recommend you find a service with an experienced printer and develop a relationship, to save you from having to learn all the tricks of the trade yourself.
Printing trick
1 print a sample
2 adjust your presets on the monitor to match the print
3 use those monitor settings when you post process for printing
03-11-2015, 02:17 PM   #63
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Things to consider,
Learning a new system takes time, will you miss more shots than you gain from having a FF.
Are you a zoom or prime person? Does the loss of stabilisation and the lack of quality crop lenses like 50-135/2.8 make a difference? I would rather shoot the 50-135 in crop mode on a pentax FF when needed then carry a 70-200 all day. (assuming 36mp as speculated) I would also take a stabilised 43ltd (especially on FF) over any competitors offerings. Same for all the FA ltds and 55/1.4
03-11-2015, 02:44 PM   #64
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QuoteOriginally posted by robjmitchell Quote
Things to consider,
Learning a new system takes time, will you miss more shots than you gain from having a FF.
Are you a zoom or prime person? Does the loss of stabilisation and the lack of quality crop lenses like 50-135/2.8 make a difference? I would rather shoot the 50-135 in crop mode on a pentax FF when needed then carry a 70-200 all day. (assuming 36mp as speculated) I would also take a stabilised 43ltd (especially on FF) over any competitors offerings. Same for all the FA ltds and 55/1.4
I don't think missing shots is a big concern. He is very skilled with a camera. All you have to do is look at his flickr and see.

03-11-2015, 04:25 PM - 1 Like   #65
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QuoteOriginally posted by biz-engineer Quote
And you'll have to spend twice the money to get good FF lenses that are up to visual expectation of your prints.
Sorry... that's a myth. You actually need better lenses on smaller formats to match the results.
03-12-2015, 12:02 AM   #66
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QuoteOriginally posted by jsherman999 Quote
Sorry... that's a myth. You actually need better lenses on smaller formats to match the results.
Yes. Because the pixel size is smaller, you need better lenses on APS-C cameras. First, the Airy disk created by the lens must be smaller to match the size of the pixel, so a better lens is needed on APS-C. Second, the bigger surface of the pixel of an FF sensor need less light to give the same electric signal.
03-12-2015, 01:31 AM   #67
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Just to complicate things - a hobby of mine apparently - you do need lenses with a higher resolving power on APS-C, but on a smaller area/image circle.
But that's only for the same pixel count on both formats. If you'd buy an expensive 36MP camera, you'd likely want the same per-pixel sharpness as with the APS-C K-5IIs.
03-12-2015, 02:43 AM   #68
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QuoteOriginally posted by jsherman999 Quote
Sorry... that's a myth. You actually need better lenses on smaller formats to match the results.
He's a wedding photographer, Jay. He'll need a 70-200 f2.8 zoom and a 24-70 f2.8 zoom. Those aren't cheap if you want brand name glass. Not that it has anything to do with format size. It's just that they are priced in the 2 grand range.

I don't really want to go into equivalence. I would just say that when Pentax releases their full frame camera, they are going to price the lenses they design for it high. You can already see it with the 70-200 they released. I'd expect a re-release of the FA limiteds with new coatings and nice bump in price as well.

I happen not to shoot with Tamron/Sigma lenses, so I'll have to save for a little while...

03-13-2015, 08:08 PM - 1 Like   #69
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I'm glad there's great 70-200's. Heck they're almost all great these days. And if you want less expensive, like the 50-135 Pentax, you can just shoot an F/4 and still be better off.
03-14-2015, 05:00 AM   #70
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The just discontinued Sigma 70-200 2.8 should be great on it..... I know it is on my K3.... especially with huelight color profiles.


Bailey.jpg
by Noelpolar, on Flickr
03-15-2015, 09:45 PM   #71
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QuoteOriginally posted by eyeswideshut Quote
So you already have a Sony A7R? What was the point of your original post then?
it's availiable to me as a "trade for service" lender and it comes with a 70-200 stabilized and that uber sharp sony 55mm f/1.8

I second shoot for them for free and it's availiable if they don't have a wedding that hour / day

---------- Post added 03-15-15 at 11:49 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Sliver-Surfer Quote
I don't think missing shots is a big concern. He is very skilled with a camera. All you have to do is look at his flickr and see.
I'm still very much in my first few years of wedding photography and I next to never put it on my flikr
03-16-2015, 10:25 PM   #72
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well.... I tried pushing the K3 to 1600 this weekend at a wedding just to see how far it could go / light

I have some very usable images when I noise correct in lightroom

so now I think I'll keep it no matter what and maybe sell the K5IIS and a few lenses and just use two different brands
03-16-2015, 10:37 PM   #73
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QuoteOriginally posted by ClinchShots Quote
well.... I tried pushing the K3 to 1600 this weekend at a wedding just to see how far it could go / light

I have some very usable images when I noise correct in lightroom

so now I think I'll keep it no matter what and maybe sell the K5IIS and a few lenses and just use two different brands
At 1600 and higher I use DXO 10 prime noise reduction..... better still I reckon..... (can use as a kinda plug in to lightroom.... works on raw images as well)
03-17-2015, 07:07 AM   #74
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QuoteOriginally posted by ClinchShots Quote
well.... I tried pushing the K3 to 1600 this weekend at a wedding just to see how far it could go / light

I have some very usable images when I noise correct in lightroom

so now I think I'll keep it no matter what and maybe sell the K5IIS and a few lenses and just use two different brands
75% of my pictures are ISO3200. So i really dont see the problem with 1600? I even work in much worse conditions then you do.
03-18-2015, 02:53 PM   #75
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QuoteOriginally posted by kenspo Quote
I even work in much worse conditions then you do.
No doubt! Although I have seen people shoot 'themed' weddings before, few wedding ceremonies will ever match the dark, loud and grungy atmosphere of a death metal gig.

So for your work you can probably produce a style of image that is different from what people would like to see from a regular wedding. Many wedding photographers would rather kill themselves than shoot any higher than even ISO 800.
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