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04-13-2016, 04:26 AM   #16
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If you can find one the Pentax K 30mm f/2.8 is an excellent little lens

04-13-2016, 04:44 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by dcpropilot Quote
Here's a lineup for ya: FA 20-35 (a little pricey at ~350-400), F 35-70 (under $75), F 70-210 (under $100), then throw in a F 50 1.7 (for about $100).
You can substitute the FA J 18-35 for that FA 20-35 if you're wanting something more similar to the prices of those other lenses.

Wider. Similar rendering, no aperture ring, and slower, of course.

Last edited by clackers; 04-13-2016 at 05:48 AM.
04-13-2016, 04:54 AM   #18
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I have refrained but no longer can. Taking Clackers partial lead I would suggest the Tokina AF 19-35mm as an excellent lowly priced alternative. Very underrated.
04-13-2016, 09:43 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Paul MaudDib Quote
A split-prism focus screen will make this much easier.

If someone can make one work with the K-1 that is..



QuoteOriginally posted by Adam Quote
We have the lens sample photo archive, and there are plans to maintain an index of K-1 test shots as well
Cool, I've been holding off writing lens reviews until I can review them for FF and crop sensors at the same time.

04-15-2016, 01:33 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Paul MaudDib Quote
A split-prism focus screen will make this much easier.
QuoteOriginally posted by Topsy Quote
If someone can make one work with the K-1 that is.
Indeed, this this is a big if. If the screen is not interchangeable (as manual states) you will probably have to go somewhat MacGyver on the camera to use manual focus lenses easily. I guess we will see if a solution is found once the camera has been out for a couple of months... *finger slowly retreating from pre-order button*
04-15-2016, 01:40 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by Paul MaudDib Quote
A split-prism focus screen will make this much easier.
QuoteOriginally posted by Jimfear Quote
Indeed, this this is a big if. If the screen is not interchangeable (as manual states) you will probably have to go somewhat MacGyver on the camera to use manual focus lenses easily. I guess we will see if a solution is found once the camera has been out for a couple of months... *finger slowly retreating from pre-order button*
Why does no one have confidence in the "focus achieved" signal?? I used my purely-manual focus Tamron AdaptAll 23A (60-300mm) to take some hand-held pictures today using my K-30 {i even "green buttoned" the exposure}, and I was quite satisfied with the focus I got.
04-15-2016, 05:19 PM   #22
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For me it was not precise enough with very fast glass. F/4 it was OK faster not so much. YMMV
04-15-2016, 05:40 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by jatrax Quote
For me it was not precise enough with very fast glass. F/4 it was OK faster not so much. YMMV
OK, I guess my preference is for a fatter DOF than what you like to work with. That makes sense.

04-15-2016, 06:19 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by reh321 Quote
OK, I guess my preference is for a fatter DOF than what you like to work with.
Not entirely. When I was testing it I was using M42 primes so f/1.4, f/1.8 was what I was working with. And that was on the k-x and the k-5. I suspect with a zoom and the k-3 that it might work much better. I have not tested this on the k-3, and I should. I think (perhaps) a lot of people have a bad taste on the precision of this based on past history. I'm willing to try it on the k-3 and see if it works any better when I get a chance.
04-16-2016, 12:29 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by reh321 Quote
Why does no one have confidence in the "focus achieved" signal?? I used my purely-manual focus Tamron AdaptAll 23A (60-300mm) to take some hand-held pictures today using my K-30 {i even "green buttoned" the exposure}, and I was quite satisfied with the focus I got.
Isn't the focus confirmation the same system as AF right, and as opposed to the AF system a microprism screen gets more accurate the faster the lens is. I like to use fast lenses and then the AF system doesn't cut it, I see this regularly when using my K-5, focus screen and focus confirmation does not say the same thing, and it's the screen which gets me images in focus. This is probably improved in the K-1 but it still won't be capable to focus my 50/1.2 as fast or as accurate as a microprism screen (I think the best AF systems today can handle f/2 lenses, someone else probably know this better). So it's not so much about not having confidence in the focus confirmation, it's just that that system does not have the technical capabilities to handle fast lenses.

Besides, you can't beat that feeling when the microprism snaps into focus
05-30-2016, 10:21 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by dcpropilot Quote
Here's a lineup for ya: FA 20-35 (a little pricey at ~350-400), F 35-70 (under $75), F 70-210 (under $100), then throw in a F 50 1.7 (for about $100).
Exactly my kit - except that I don't (yet) have a K1!

Does anyone know of example shots with the FA20-35 on the K1? I'd love to see how this lens performs.
05-31-2016, 03:13 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by dcpropilot Quote
FA 20-35 (a little pricey at ~350-400), F 35-70 (under $75), F 70-210 (under $100), then throw in a F 50 1.7 (for about $100).
A cheaper alternative to the FA 20-35 is the DA16-45( longer too).My copy works from 21mm, I use it as my walk around on K1.For specific landscapes the Sigma 24mm superwide AF does a great job(but its hard to find)Yes and the F35-70mm(I have 2)are very versatile.The smc DA 40mm ltd is great.
05-31-2016, 09:08 PM - 1 Like   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by gabriel_bc Quote
Does anyone know of example shots with the FA20-35 on the K1? I'd love to see how this lens performs.
Here are two, first without a lens correction profile, second with the profile from the da 20-40 applied. I'm satisfied with the sharpness, but I was unprepared for that much curvature. There is also noticeable vignetting. Note these are with minimal processing so a little work would improve things.

06-01-2016, 12:47 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by jsherman999 Quote
I'd really like to know how the FA 20 f/2.8 performs on the K-1, and the F/FA 50 1.7.
Whats your benchmark/expectation?

If you are looking for edge to edge sharpness at f8, I think you'd have to wait for a new UWA/WA prime (2017) or get the DFA15-30

IMO, the FA20/2.8 is highly functional for landscapes, probably up to 24mp resolution on the edges (losing out on the last 1/10, 1/8 of the frame ).
For a 36mp FF, I think a reference for good IQ would be to use it with a 4:3 crop ratio or as a 21mm lens.

This is of course highly subjective so YMMV.


Here is a large sample, though I don't have the full size on Flickr.



You'd be able to see that the last 1/8 of the bottom is a bit 'stressed' in terms of sharpness.
That said, I do print A3 and its not noticeable on a print size that most enthusiasts/causal shooters would find largish.

There's more to a lens than sharpness of course.
Size/weight, flare tolerance, f2.8 max aperture, AF, auto aperture, etc.
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