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09-30-2016, 08:10 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Digitalis Quote
*but I think the designers had a bit too much sake when they designed the 3D tiltable screen on the K-1..."you know what would be a crazy idea? lets put the rear LCD on stalks with balls on the end, and these stalks have to be able to carry the entire cameras weight and then some"...
One of my favorite videos, skip to 0:25



09-30-2016, 05:39 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by dcshooter Quote
16x focus with live view gives the most accurate view of the actual sensor readout at a given focal distance, so it is the method that fits his request best
The problem I have with this statement is that that live view output from the sensor is subsampled, such a high degree of magnification cannot be completely trusted due to the use of pixel averaging and line skipping tricks manufacturers use to produce the video signal in the first place. I won't go past 8X, in LV to asses focus. 16X is pointless as no real detail is further resolved beyond 6X as it is garbled by subsampling. A 7" HDMI external monitor with focus peaking capability (and when FP is tweaked) can be both fast, accurate and a lot clearer when assessing critical focus across the image than zooming in with the rear LCD.

Last edited by Digitalis; 09-30-2016 at 05:51 PM.
09-30-2016, 06:33 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
It's a rule of thumb!!

Yes, yet it is often not discussed as such. Even in this very thread.
10-01-2016, 09:03 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Digitalis Quote
The problem I have with this statement is that that live view output from the sensor is subsampled, such a high degree of magnification cannot be completely trusted due to the use of pixel averaging and line skipping tricks manufacturers use to produce the video signal in the first place. I won't go past 8X, in LV to asses focus. 16X is pointless as no real detail is further resolved beyond 6X as it is garbled by subsampling. A 7" HDMI external monitor with focus peaking capability (and when FP is tweaked) can be both fast, accurate and a lot clearer when assessing critical focus across the image than zooming in with the rear LCD.
Maybe you don't get more details beyond 8x, I don't know. But the detail you do get is larger and easier to see, why keep it small? I wouldn't mind a 32x enlargement.

10-01-2016, 04:42 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Gimbal Quote
I wouldn't mind a 32x enlargement
...why stop there?





128X I want to see all the things!

Last edited by Digitalis; 10-01-2016 at 10:51 PM.
10-02-2016, 08:40 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mattox Quote
FOCUS METHOD IN LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHY

As mentioned interestingly enough in a previous post not related, what are you finding to be the most accurate and effective focus technique for shooting landscape/still photography with the K1?
Manual focus seems to work well.
10-02-2016, 09:43 PM   #22
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Man, I am struggling with focus like never before, since I got a K-1! Even at f8-11, it's hard to hold focus from front to back of a large bush at ten yards, as just one example. Depth of Field seems to have dwindled since the past time I used FF Digital, with a Sony a850. That was only 24 MPx- was that a relevant difference? When I go for 100% view now, I'm digging 50% deeper into each image. The actual focal plane is phenomenally detailed, critically sharp at 100% on a 27in. Retina screen. Is that same screen view so detailed that I'm finally seeing the range of unsharpness that always exists within the specified zone of DOF, but I was never able to enlarge this much to see it?

Admittedly I've gotten rusty on focusing skills, a combination of working mostly with wideangles on smaller formats. My usual rule of thumb that "under 70mm, over f8 and over ten feet away" will do, but that needs revision.

The amazing K-1 seems to have solved almost every other challenge and puzzle of digital photography: stabilization, dynamic range, color, noise. But suddenly, it's harder than ever to stay focused in a 3-D world.
10-04-2016, 03:53 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by dcshooter Quote
MF in live view with 16x magnification.
I only use 10x (i.e. 100%), but this is the most precice imo.


rgds,
Gerd.

10-04-2016, 05:17 AM - 1 Like   #24
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I must admit... if I was LeRolls I'd struggle to know where to focus.... and 16x magnification .... well.....

(did I just type that out loud...)

Last edited by noelpolar; 10-06-2016 at 04:19 PM.
10-05-2016, 05:15 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by noelpolar Quote
I mist admit... if I was LeRolls I'd struggle to know where to focus.... and 16x magnification .... well.....

(did I just type that out loud...)
Thank heavens for shake reduction.
10-06-2016, 06:44 AM   #26
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The best method for me so far has been LV with x8 magnification (more if unsure).
There is a lot of field curvature in the old wides and care needs to be taken to look out for them, so usually, I will have the magnified view on the off center instead of just the center.
I'd also check with the DOF preview if necessary.

Once I get familiar enough with a lens, some of these steps can be skipped, since I will know what distance marking will usually give me a edge to edge sharp shot.


f8 is often no longer enough on FF and with the high res of the K1 (as well as perhaps some lenses I use being old).
f11 is almost my 'go to' landscape f-stop nowadays.


Other observations,
24mm where its a soft spot between DOF to cover foreground to infinity with much ease.
With 28mm on FF, its much harder to get both foreground and infinity within the DOF (and focus stack may become necessary).
10-10-2016, 06:26 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by dcshooter Quote
MF in live view with 16x magnification.
how do you magnify with the K1 for focus. It is so completely different to the K5
10-10-2016, 06:50 AM   #28
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Hit OK in LV
10-10-2016, 07:56 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mattox Quote
how do you magnify with the K1 for focus. It is so completely different to the K5
You have to be in Live view and then you hit Ok button. The amount of magnification can then be chosen using an e-dial, or as an option somewhere in the Menu (I think its called Digital zoom). The good thing about this digital zoom is that it opens the aperture of the lens, so you can do some precise focusing. This is especially great with very fast primes and with manual focus, because Live view alone usually stops down the lens a little. And you can use this in combination with focus peaking.
10-10-2016, 10:42 AM   #30
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Stupid question, I know. The k5 was a little less complex to setup in live view that's for sure. Interesting to here everyone talk about DOF with ff. I have heard so much about FF being challenging for landscapes in this area. To think I used to love shooting at f8 on the k5, after hearing so much about DOF in FF I don't think I will be shooting under f11-14
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