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11-07-2016, 01:40 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by sibyrnes Quote
I'm really surprised to hear that opinion. One of the things I like about my K1 is how great it works with manual lenses. With the use of the green button it functions in aperture priority, which is my preferred method anyway. Set the f stop manually, press the green button and the correct shutter speed is set. Combined with focus peaking I can't imagine how it could be easier to use manual lens. What do other cameras do to make the use of manual lens less "awkward'?
I haven't tested a K-1, but I have used a K-01, K-5 II, and most recently a K-S2. (The K-S2 with a 20-40mm Limited was a great combo, by the way.) When it came to manual focusing... It failed, from my standpoint. When using the viewfinder the only focusing aid is the little red LED square in the center that beep-beep-beeeeps whenever it thinks I'm roughly somewhere close to being in focus. That didn't get the job done for me.

Focus peaking on all the Pentax cameras that I've used has been of limited usefulness, partly because there are no sensitivity adjustments, and partly because it's all on the LCD which simply isn't that clear outdoors during daylight hours.

When we knew the K-1 was coming, I hoped I might be able to get a prism focusing screen for it. But then KatzEye went out of business, and then we found out the screens aren't changeable anyhow, and I threw my hands up in the air and went to shop for something mirrorless.

I tested a Fujifilm X-T1 and the Sony A7, and they both worked much better. I liked the Fuji's controls, but I prefer the feel of the Sony in my hands, and I prefer its focus peaking method, and (most of all) I like having the full-frame sensor and no concerns about crop factor or focal reducers.

And when it comes to M42 thread mount lenses. . . The Pentax adapter is a fiddly little thing that's hard to get in and out of the camera without poking the mirror and leaving a fingerprint on it, and half the time when I remove a lens the adapter comes with it, and then a few times I've had to go find a channel-lock wrench to get the adapter off the lens.

Metering is no big deal, as I could get used to pressing a button. However, it's nicer to have continuous metering on the Sony with both PK and M42 lenses. Metering, focusing and composing are all fluid -- I don't have to switch any modes or press any buttons, and it's close to the kind of experience I had back in the good old days with my 35mm SLR. The only exception is when I want magnification, which is a bit slow and awkward but is the ultimate way to nail the focus.

PS: It also helps that the Sony is about the same size as my 35mm SLR too. --> Sony A7 vs Pentax K-1 Camera Size Comparison


Last edited by Tony Belding; 11-07-2016 at 01:46 PM. Reason: added link
11-08-2016, 12:11 PM - 1 Like   #17
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Tony, did I understand you correctly? You have never used a K1?
11-08-2016, 01:34 PM - 1 Like   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by sibyrnes Quote
Tony, did I understand you correctly? You have never used a K1?
That is correct.
11-08-2016, 02:14 PM   #19
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Hello,
I have tried the Pentax K-1 last week-end with Leica Macro-Elmarit-R 60/2.8 for the first time. Although I use it as it is (using real aperture), I had no problem to focuse with it because I don't worry about autofocus as I frame before manual focusing... Besides, the pentaprism of the Pentax K-1 is breathtaking like the Leica SL2's or Leica R8's are. Its pentaprism has nothing to do with pentamirror of EOS 6D nor pentaprism of EOS 5D Mark III. This camera is outstanding in every aspect of its skills and I am very glad of it.
As I can't stand using EVF on Sony A7RII, I made up my mind: choosing the best FF OVF on the market for the best price. I have dreamed for a long time of it, Ricoh did it... Leica SL is the best EVF I have ever known as of today, but at 7700 in Europe with Leica R-SL adapter, needless to say that I went my way...
Metering works without "green button" except to change for auto Iso. I just have to underexpose at -1IL for this lens and that is all. Focusing assistance is working very well (at the center) but once again, I do not use it for my general purpose...
Best regards.


Last edited by teiki arii; 11-08-2016 at 02:20 PM.
11-08-2016, 08:52 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tony Belding Quote
And when it comes to M42 thread mount lenses. . . The Pentax adapter is a fiddly little thing that's hard to get in and out of the camera without poking the mirror and leaving a fingerprint on it, and half the time when I remove a lens the adapter comes with it, and then a few times I've had to go find a channel-lock wrench to get the adapter off the lens.
I am trying to visualize how removing the adapter puts ones finger on the mirror. I am also trying to figure out how a channel-lock might be used to remove an adapter and how that might be done without doing serious damage to the body. Is it safe to assume we are talking about a brand-X adapter? The genuine Pentax is very easy to use (simply spin it on) and to remove (basically flicks out) and worth every penny.

QuoteOriginally posted by sibyrnes Quote
Tony, did I understand you correctly? You have never used a K1?
QuoteOriginally posted by Tony Belding Quote
That is correct.
OK...


Steve
11-08-2016, 10:32 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
I am trying to visualize how removing the adapter puts ones finger on the mirror.


QuoteQuote:
I am also trying to figure out how a channel-lock might be used to remove an adapter and how that might be done without doing serious damage to the body.


QuoteQuote:
Is it safe to assume we are talking about a brand-X adapter? The genuine Pentax is very easy to use (simply spin it on) and to remove (basically flicks out) and worth every penny.
It seems we have different experiences, since for me it's never been anything but a pain in the neck. It doesn't lock into the body when I want it to, sticks to the lens when I don't want it to, and is just fiddly and awkward to get in and out.

By comparison, with the Sony the M42 adapter is big enough to hold onto, snaps onto the camera just like mounting a native lens, and then lenses thread into it just like putting them on a M42 camera. Everything is solid and positive, there are no surprises.
11-08-2016, 11:02 PM   #22
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I too have never had problems with the m42 adapters. I'm surprised by the finger on the mirror comments. Wear nitrile or latex gloves next time to protect the mirror. Sorry to see the channel locks out - the Hulk needs to stop putting your lenses on the adapters.
11-08-2016, 11:22 PM   #23
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Weird. If you put the adapter in first, by holding down the spring, it just rotates and locks in. I then just screw the lenses in. When I want to take the lens off, I unscrew the lens and remove the adapter by holding down the spring and applying a bit of force to the surface of the adapter. I never even thought of putting the fingers inside the body, I must be doing it all wrong. BTW, mirrorless cameras naturally have easier time adapting glass, no one denies that. But i can still make m42 lenses work, just adds an extra step, not a big deal.

11-09-2016, 03:50 AM   #24
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Well, I have no particular feelings about Sony cameras. I shoot lenses that auto focus and auto meter and they won't do that on Sony full frames, so that was kind of out for me.

I think the biggest things I noticed going with a K-1 (on the positive side) was the fact that the high iso performance was significantly better than the K3 and the dynamic range in low iso situations was a treat. There were just a lot of situations where I would have shot multiple exposures on a K3 where I could use a single exposure on the K-1. I don't know how to say it except to say that you can push K-1 RAW images really hard without them looking pushed. The K3 and K5 RAWs are nice too, but you can tell a lot faster when you are bumping shadowed areas too much.

The hardest thing to get used to was less depth of field. There are still times when I shoot a landscape at f8 and get home and wish I had stopped down to f11. My wife shoot more portraiture and she, of course, loves that aspect of it. She can do a portrait session with the 24-70 f2.8 on the K-1, whereas she was tending to use primes like the FA 77 and DA *55 on our K3 -- purely due to differences in depth of field between the formats.

Lenses for the K-1 are bigger. That is to say the DFA zooms are very large, but for someone chasing image quality it is the price you pay. Primes aren't really any bigger and for the most part I am using the same primes on the K-1 that I did on the K3. Still looking for a DA 15 limited full frame equivalent, but otherwise it is all good.

Overall, nothing is perfect and the K-1 won't be for everyone, but I have been very pleased with it as a tool for creating images.
11-09-2016, 07:02 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by awscreo Quote
Weird. If you put the adapter in first, by holding down the spring, it just rotates and locks in. I then just screw the lenses in. When I want to take the lens off, I unscrew the lens and remove the adapter by holding down the spring and applying a bit of force to the surface of the adapter.
Yes, that's exactly how it's supposed to work. And if it did, in fact, actually work that way all the time, I would be happier with it.
11-09-2016, 08:05 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tony Belding Quote
Yes, that's exactly how it's supposed to work. And if it did, in fact, actually work that way all the time, I would be happier with it.
Too bad. Works for me, I bought a used like-new Asahi Pentax adapter from ebay
11-09-2016, 01:10 PM   #27
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I own a couple of genuine adapters, if you follow the written instructions the unmounting happens but its fiddly.....and it takes a bit long, so I use the Takumars on my mirrorless systems with elcheapo adapters...VERY easy!
11-09-2016, 01:29 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tony Belding Quote
It seems we have different experiences
I guess so!! I remove mine with the thumbnail and tip of index finger of my right hand. Nothing extends into the mirror box beyond the depth of the adapter. Since the genuine Pentax is loose in the mount, there is no rotation resistance. If one's nails are very short, this technique might not work.

QuoteOriginally posted by Tony Belding Quote
It doesn't lock into the body when I want it to, sticks to the lens when I don't want it to, and is just fiddly and awkward to get in and out.
If your adapter does not lock in, it may be due to a damaged lock spring (photo indicates unusual marks). In regards to the "fiddly" and "awkward", my advice is to fix the adapter to the lens and mount the assembly to the camera in the same manner as a K-mount lens.*

I have been shooting M42 glass since 1970 and have never had an issue with cross-threading. Did you affix the cross-threaded adapter in your channel-lock photo or did you buy the lens with the brand-x** adapter attached? FWIW, the closest I have come to bunged threads was with a Bower-branded adapter with poorly cut threads. It would not spin on, so back to Adorama it went.

End of thread hijack...


Steve

* The matter of fix-to-body vs. fix-to-lens is sort of confusing. The instructions for adapters and bodies have it both ways with the original K-series and M-series manuals saying fix-to-lens. My advice is fix-to-lens with one huge exception; that being a new lens/body combination where assessing clearance for the full 360 rotation to mount/unmount is important. I have two lenses that will not clear the prism housing on one of my K-mount film bodies.

** I say "brand-x" because the adapter in the photo is painted black

Last edited by stevebrot; 11-09-2016 at 02:16 PM.
11-09-2016, 02:38 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tony Belding Quote
Yes, that's exactly how it's supposed to work. And if it did, in fact, actually work that way all the time, I would be happier with it.
Mine are the same way. And they are the Pentax branded ones that I have owned for over 25 years. And this is on my film cameras and my DSLR's. But they work good and allow me to use some fine vintage glass on my cameras so I just put up with them.
11-10-2016, 04:11 AM   #30
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Tony B, brings up many valid points.

I have both a A7K and K1.
The K1 is fantastic for the features, dynamic range, high ISO.
Bucket load of really good photography orientated features that I can type on my phone.
Weakness :
1. Not as strong for MF wrt evf A7
2. Heavier and more bulky
3. AF with older AF lenses can have tolerance matching issues.
4. Some matching tolerance issues to get infinity for some old lenses.

While MF is no issues for slow work like landscapes, it's much slower for other genres like people photography.
So I mostly use the K1 with MF lenses for landscapes and seldom for portraits /streets.


The A7k on the other hand does well for manual lenses.
Shoots straight in Av mode with whatever aperture is selected on the lens.
Focus peaking is easier to discern too.


I find that there is a sense of beating up anyone who mentions that another camera is better (even if it's just for a few others aspects)
K1 has been out for a while now and I am sure it can stand on its own 2 feet wrt other cameras of there.

So take comments like mine and Tony's as what they are.
User impressions.
So certainly YMMV
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