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12-09-2016, 04:28 PM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by dcshooter Quote
This isn't even close to true. You must have shaky hands.
Nah...he has been beating that drum for quite awhile and is not alone in the assertion and has some evidence to back it up. I don't have a K-1 and cannot comment beyond that.


Steve

12-09-2016, 04:35 PM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by biz-engineer Quote
Nope. I performed test shots, indoor, using tripod and IR remote. I compared various shutter speed conditions, with / without MLU, with/without ES. That said , other brands (Sony, Canon and Nikon) have more or less the same issue.
The standard answer to that observation is the traditional answer going back some 60 years...get a sturdier tripod. I don't know what you set your K-1 on, but my experience has been that most (all?) tripods and heads are badly overrated by the manufacturers. This is true regardless of design and materials.

The tripod I use serves me well, but even then there are times when a damping wrap around the "spider" would help immensely to quell vibration and upward deformation of leg segments.


Steve
12-09-2016, 04:47 PM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by LFLee Quote
Received my K1... playing around with it a little. few quick impressions.

- unfortunately I don't get the 'wow' feeling when looking at images. I get the wow factor when I 'upgrade' from K5 to K5IIs (no AA filter).
- the VF is not as big as I imagine it would be, doesn't seem like it will help with manual focus, my film camera like LX and OM2n seems to have larger and brighter VF.
- the camera is not as big as I thought it would be, but maybe because I use 645N and 67 a lot in this past year and half.
- the new wheels on top and it's option wheel... I don't like it, it is not as easily turn as the back wheel, and very confusing with the back wheel. also many of the options on the wheel can be accessed via buttons, I wish it have few user define options. It's like something not well-designed.
- the directional button is now more protrude and deeper, has a different feel (I use K200, K5, K5IIs) when pressed.
- button placement is weird, especially LV button, it should be change with the review button. I also keep pressing the light button on top instead of the iso button. The focus selection button as well. I don't know, buttons are not as well-placed as previous Pentax models, I think.
- shot some sample image with FA35 wide open, waiting for amazing bokeh-licious photo. not very impressed, lol.
- I am not impressed with focus speed either, it doesn't feel a lot of improvement from K5IIs.

I don't know, maybe I shot a lot of film MF this past year and a half that I don't like 'the look' on 135 anymore?

Honestly, I have a bit of buyer remorse - I could have shoot tons of MF films with this amount of money.
Can I ask what lenses you are using? A lot of the look is the result of the lens. I shot with a Contax 645 which is a camera I traded my Pentax 67II for. Both are simply excellent cameras. 6x7 definitely has a look to it that you can't match with 135. For people shooting weddings and high volume work, the cost of film and processing really makes MF a costly option. For casual shooting though 6x7 film is a lot of fun.

As far as focus speed. In the first menu, what are your setting for Phase Detection AF? The factory "AUTO" settings are awful.

I hope the new Fuji MF puts some pressure on Ricoh to improve the glass and introduce new products.
12-09-2016, 04:53 PM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by bobbotron Quote
Holy thread derailment batman.
what was the subject again?


randy

12-10-2016, 03:07 AM   #35
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There is definitely a problem with using SR hand held at moderate shutter speeds. I these instances I get sharper results with SR turned off, so it is nothing to do with unsteady hands.
12-10-2016, 04:30 AM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by Sandy Hancock Quote
There is definitely a problem with using SR hand held at moderate shutter speeds. I these instances I get sharper results with SR turned off, so it is nothing to do with unsteady hands.
What do you consider to be moderate shutter speeds? Can the same be said for the k3? I ask because I currently have a k3 but I'm saving for the k1.
Thanks
12-10-2016, 04:41 AM - 1 Like   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by amp Quote
What do you consider to be moderate shutter speeds? Can the same be said for the k3? I ask because I currently have a k3 but I'm saving for the k1.
Thanks
I've had it happen on the K-3. If I remember correctly, it was on a wide angle lens at a shutter speed of around 1/80s or 1/100s.

An awful lot of cameras from every manufacturer display similar characteristics. If and when it affects you, you simply work around it, but it can be annoying until you've figured out the reason...

EDIT: In fact, here's an unscientific test I did with a zoom lens at 24mm, same shot at 1/100s and 1/400s, which shows the effect nicely:

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/10-pentax-slr-lens-discussion/326500-help...ml#post3721476

Last edited by BigMackCam; 12-10-2016 at 09:03 AM.
12-10-2016, 09:37 AM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by amp Quote
What do you consider to be moderate shutter speeds? Can the same be said for the k3? I ask because I currently have a k3 but I'm saving for the k1.
Thanks
The claims regarding SR at moderate speeds go back several years with the word "moderate" meaning anything that is not "slow" for a particular focal length and not "fast" enough to quench the presumed SR-induced motion. In other words, the range of speeds a person might reasonably use without SR when not seeking to freeze subject motion.

The theory is that mirror slap or first curtain breaking creates a short, high amplitude shock that results in the sensor being in motion during the exposure with the effect being greater than the shock itself with SR turned off. I have not done any comparisons with my K-3 or the K10D that I had before, so can't comment further except to note that stated SR efficacy is traceable to CIPA DC-011 testing specification. A careful examination of that spec might show how the reported failure might escape the certification process. While the currect (2015) specification is not available to the public, the draft spec is available for download:

http://www.cipa.jp/image-stabilization/documents_e/DC-X011-2014_E.pdf

Note that the SR observation is not the same as the K-1 moderate shutter speed complaint.

Steve


Last edited by stevebrot; 12-10-2016 at 10:05 AM.
01-29-2017, 08:49 PM - 1 Like   #39
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Just received my used K-1 from a forum member. All I can say is WOW. Given I've had a K10d, K20d, K5, and K3, the K-1 is just nothing short of amazing. My goodness, Pentax packed a lot of stuff in that body. It's fun just playing with all of my lenses now. Anyway, right out of the gate, I can see the differences.
02-01-2017, 03:06 PM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by LFLee Quote
Received my K1... playing around with it a little. few quick impressions.

- unfortunately I don't get the 'wow' feeling when looking at images. I get the wow factor when I 'upgrade' from K5 to K5IIs (no AA filter).
- shot some sample image with FA35 wide open, waiting for amazing bokeh-licious photo. not very impressed, lol.
Honestly, I have a bit of buyer remorse - I could have shoot tons of MF films with this amount of money.
The wow factor depends upon where you are coming from, in your case it is actually sort of downgrade in terms of sensor/film size.
When I went from PS (1/3") sensor to APS-C - D40, I had a wow
Then when I went to K-5II it was a super wow in terms fo IQ, clarity, sharpness - the whole lot.
I look at the photos from K-1 on flickr and there is not that much of wow to me.

About the bokeh on 35mm,
The bokeh is function of absolute aperture and I feel it starts to diminish once it gets smaller than 25mm.
I can get excellent bokeh on my K-5II with a Helios 58mm at f2 (28 mm aperture).
Flowers_usingHelios | Flickr

The bottom limit is probably 50/f2.0
For 35 mm, you would need something like f1.4. Anything above 50 mm on FF should give good bokeh, ane there is also the blade design to consider.

Last edited by abhaskare; 02-01-2017 at 05:08 PM.
02-25-2017, 12:36 PM   #41
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I think I am going to be very happy. I cut my teeth with 35mm film in 1977. I have old (M42, M, K, A) and modern autofocus lenses. The K-1 seems to love my A28/2.8, K55/1.8, M100/2.8 so far. It works well with my Tamron 70-200/2.8 using autofocus and manual focus. I am not a big pixel peeper and post processor. I use PP to clean up things. I am a "what you see through the lens is what you get", represent real life type photographer and operate on what impressions the image gives me. If the image had to be unbelievable, I would probably invest in a medium frame and lenses (and sell my truck to buy it!!).

Good luck, and great imaging to you all,

JB

Last edited by Take-5-JB; 02-27-2017 at 09:51 PM.
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