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08-02-2019, 12:00 PM - 1 Like   #46
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QuoteOriginally posted by biz-engineer Quote
Sounds like a very good plan. The 100 macro is compact, the 55-300 PLM is relatively small , good enough with 1:1 crop I suppose.
K-1 with DA 55-300. Heavily cropped. Taken from about 100 meters... cropped to 9 MP, then reduced again to 4 MP? How good do you want?


A pixel peeper, it may not be razor sharp but it's also hand held and 75-100 meters away. I'm not sure you get much better with a better lens. It's certainly adequate for my needs, if you don't look at the ƒ6.3 part. The DA 55-300 PLM lens was designed for 24 MP APS_c. The larger pixels on FF make it even better.


Uncropped version.



Last edited by normhead; 08-02-2019 at 12:07 PM.
08-03-2019, 07:18 PM   #47
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I‘ve been to Namibia two years ago with the K1 and the DFA 150-450. I made a lot of great pictures of Wildlife in Etosha. So I can tell you this combination works fine. But in between I also bought a KP and next time I would take both with me: K1 for Landscape and with the DA 60-250 or DFA 70-200 for near and big animals and the KP with the 150-450 (which means 225-675mm in FF!) for animals far away. You will sometimes need this length!!!! And by using the K1 in crop-mode you loose resolution (15 MP) compared to the KP (24 MP!).
And with a teleconverter you will also loose one or two stops! Think of this! The others were right: best times for wildlife is in the early morning or the evening!
If I had the 645 I would use it for landscape and buy the cheaper KP for wildlife!!!
08-04-2019, 10:24 PM   #48
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I think the K-1 is a great choice for a secondary camera on your trip. Yes, you can set your K-1 to force an APS-C crop, as well as a square crop with any lens, full frame, crop sensor, or 645 lens. I believe a 5D does this automatically and it cannot be forced, the 5R can be manually adjusted. You can set the K-1 to do this automatically depending on which lenses are being used, or set it manually.

I've used the 50D, 60D, 70D, and 80D, as well as the 5D mk ii, iii, and iv for video. I use current Canon models for video at low ISO and good lighting. Focus accuracy suffers at low light. The mk iv, 80D, and T7i introduced Canon's new dual pixel (dual cross-type) autofocus system, a substantial and much-needed upgrade to their sloppy AF. In low light I currently use either a Nikon D3S or my D800E for fast-moving subjects. For 90 percent of my subjects I use my K-1 ii and it never lets me down.

I too require a top LCD in my cameras. The K-3 ii is the current high-end APS-C camera if you choose this option, but I'd still recommend the K-1 (you may even be able to purchase a used K-1 ii in the Forum Marketplace here). The K-1 is a little more like the 645Z than the K-3 ii is. The 150-450mm and K-1 would be a good option to go with your 645Z. My wildlife setup includes a two-body setup, a K-1 ii with the FA* 80-200/2.8, and the K10D with the F* 250-600/5.6.

Good luck on your trip and travel safely.
08-06-2019, 01:35 AM - 2 Likes   #49
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QuoteOriginally posted by zahnski Quote
I‘ve been to Namibia two years ago with the K1 and the DFA 150-450. I made a lot of great pictures of Wildlife in Etosha. So I can tell you this combination works fine. But in between I also bought a KP and next time I would take both with me: K1 for Landscape and with the DA 60-250 or DFA 70-200 for near and big animals and the KP with the 150-450 (which means 225-675mm in FF!) for animals far away. You will sometimes need this length!!!! And by using the K1 in crop-mode you loose resolution (15 MP) compared to the KP (24 MP!).
And with a teleconverter you will also loose one or two stops! Think of this! The others were right: best times for wildlife is in the early morning or the evening!
If I had the 645 I would use it for landscape and buy the cheaper KP for wildlife!!!
Thank you @zahnski.

I guess K1 in crop mode, even at 15 MP, should be ok as carrying a K1 seems to be like carrying two camera bodies in one. Looks good. And even without the crop mode, i guess the FF K1 image will allow a good crop in PP.

With 1.4X, i would lose one stop. But I think that it can be made up with the better high ISO performance of a bigger sensor camera like K1.

So I have made up my mind to go for the K1 instead of the KP or K3

---------- Post added 08-06-19 at 01:39 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by builttospill Quote
I think the K-1 is a great choice for a secondary camera on your trip. Yes, you can set your K-1 to force an APS-C crop, as well as a square crop with any lens, full frame, crop sensor, or 645 lens. I believe a 5D does this automatically and it cannot be forced, the 5R can be manually adjusted. You can set the K-1 to do this automatically depending on which lenses are being used, or set it manually.

I've used the 50D, 60D, 70D, and 80D, as well as the 5D mk ii, iii, and iv for video. I use current Canon models for video at low ISO and good lighting. Focus accuracy suffers at low light. The mk iv, 80D, and T7i introduced Canon's new dual pixel (dual cross-type) autofocus system, a substantial and much-needed upgrade to their sloppy AF. In low light I currently use either a Nikon D3S or my D800E for fast-moving subjects. For 90 percent of my subjects I use my K-1 ii and it never lets me down.

I too require a top LCD in my cameras. The K-3 ii is the current high-end APS-C camera if you choose this option, but I'd still recommend the K-1 (you may even be able to purchase a used K-1 ii in the Forum Marketplace here). The K-1 is a little more like the 645Z than the K-3 ii is. The 150-450mm and K-1 would be a good option to go with your 645Z. My wildlife setup includes a two-body setup, a K-1 ii with the FA* 80-200/2.8, and the K10D with the F* 250-600/5.6.

Good luck on your trip and travel safely.
Thank you @builttospill for your sage advice and kind wishes. I have decided on the K1 with 150-450 and the 1.4X rear converter.

08-06-2019, 07:30 AM - 2 Likes   #50
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I've used my K5 and Sigma 150-500 for wildlife shots. Deer, bear, Great Horned Owls, Barred Owls, Snowy White Owls, Hawks, Bald Eagles, Great Blue Herons, American White Pelicans, etc. Wildlife photography works fine with this equipment...which some would consider technologically obsolete .

What I've found in my experience is yes some camera systems are better suited to certain types of photography, but also getting to learn how to use, how to cope with what you have...equipment and ability wise...is even more important.

I would suggest you get whatever you decide fairly soon, so you can learn to use and practice, try out different ways and practice some more before you go on your trip. You want to be ready and able with what you have...before you get there.
08-06-2019, 10:46 AM - 1 Like   #51
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QuoteOriginally posted by lesmore49 Quote
I've used my K5 and Sigma 150-500 for wildlife shots. Deer, bear, Great Horned Owls, Barred Owls, Snowy White Owls, Hawks, Bald Eagles, Great Blue Herons, American White Pelicans, etc. Wildlife photography works fine with this equipment...which some would consider technologically obsolete .

What I've found in my experience is yes some camera systems are better suited to certain types of photography, but also getting to learn how to use, how to cope with what you have...equipment and ability wise...is even more important.

I would suggest you get whatever you decide fairly soon, so you can learn to use and practice, try out different ways and practice some more before you go on your trip. You want to be ready and able with what you have...before you get there.
I fully appreciate your points @lesmore49. Thank you. I should have the kit in hand by tomorrow. Then i will have about two weeks to get used to it. Hopefully i should be able to do justice to the camera
08-06-2019, 10:46 PM   #52
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Well, I wouldn‘t advise to take the 654 plus the K1: the crop factor between is small so you don‘t get much more reach. The K1 is a good landscape camera the 645 too. So why carrying two of them with you. An APSC gives you much more reach and this you will need for wildlife! I remember a situation in Namibia when I wanted to take pictures of a group of lions maybe 50m away: with 450mm they still are small on the picture and cropping is ok but not very sharp! A 600mm lens would have made it better so there an APSC would have made it!

08-08-2019, 05:13 AM   #53
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QuoteOriginally posted by zahnski Quote
Well, I wouldn‘t advise to take the 654 plus the K1: the crop factor between is small so you don‘t get much more reach. The K1 is a good landscape camera the 645 too. So why carrying two of them with you. An APSC gives you much more reach and this you will need for wildlife! I remember a situation in Namibia when I wanted to take pictures of a group of lions maybe 50m away: with 450mm they still are small on the picture and cropping is ok but not very sharp! A 600mm lens would have made it better so there an APSC would have made it!
Thanks @zahnski.

645Z would be for landscapes.

K1+ 150-450 × 1.4 TC would be for wildlife.

Actually you get wildlife at a pretty close range im the Mara. So in case i can shoot without the TC with the frame filling up the way i want it, then K1 would be fine. Also, I can always shoot K1 in crop mode if i am desperate for something...at 16 MP versus 24 MP of a dedicated APSC camera. But that is ok.
08-08-2019, 08:21 AM   #54
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I still have one doubt though.

Do you need to pair the K1 with an APS-C lens to use the APS-C/ crop mode of the camera, or you coukd use this crop mode irrespective of the paired lens?
08-08-2019, 08:41 AM   #55
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QuoteOriginally posted by leonine Quote
I still have one doubt though.

Do you need to pair the K1 with an APS-C lens to use the APS-C/ crop mode of the camera, or you coukd use this crop mode irrespective of the paired lens?
No. You can just choose APS-C crop on your third e dial and use it to change from full frame to crop mode and back again, regardless of the lens (or just do it from the info screen).

So, you can choose to shoot crop lenses in full frame mode too, if you want to.
08-08-2019, 10:10 AM   #56
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IMHO, the K-1 II has a little bit better AF speed and tracking but probably not as good as the Canon. You can speed things up by shooting JPEGs as long as the highlights are not clipped. However I have gotten a few good wildlife images with it and the 150-450.







08-08-2019, 11:09 PM   #57
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Hello again,
I've been out the last week and left all the gadgets with access to internet at home and that's why I didn't get the chance to reply.

Regarding Canon:
1. Forget about 50D. It's very old with a very old sensor and poor af. If you had a 600mmf4L lens for it, it would be a little different, up to a point. But paring a 50D with a mediocre lens like Sigma 150-600mm lens won't help.

2. Sigma/Tamron 150-600mm vs Canon 100-400mm. Tamron G2 lens is quite good. Is not that sharp or fast focusing as Canon lens at the maximum focal lenght, but you will get extra 200mm by going to Tamron.

3. 5D Mark IV will be very good for wildlife (action or stationary subjects).

4. 7D Mark II vs. 80D, I would choose 80D because it's better at high ISO and the af is not far behind either. It also has better dynamic range.

5. Canon 100-400mmL lens is very good. It's fast to focus, sharp wide open and light. With 5D Mark IV you will have tracking af even with 1.4x TC added on the lens. But you will shoot at f8 if you add TC and at f8 the Tamron 150-600mm G2 is quite good also at 600mm. I would pick Tamron G2 if the reach is important. You can shoot at f6.3 and 600mm with the Tamron lens and you will keep also the ISO lower than when you shoot with Canon and 1.4x TC.

Regarding Pentax:

1. If you don't plan to shoot action most of the time, you won't have problems with K1's af. K1's af is ok, not great for action (some may argue with me on this, but K1 wasn't designed for speed) but with proper tehnique you can make it work for action too. Given the fact that you said you're not into BIF or fast action, the only thing that may drive you crazy is the slow reading files to memory cards.

2. Pentax K3/K3 II... the "problem" I have with K3 is the ISO. Depending on the available light and the quality of it, after ISO 800 the K3 files don't look that good. And if you shoot with Pentax 150-450mm at 400mm f5.6 (or f8 and 630mm if you add TC) you will need fast shutter speeds and this may lead to high ISO. On the other hand you will have 8fps on K3 and half on K1. You will also have faster reading files on memory cards with K3.

3. Pentax 150-450mm lens with 1.4x TC. I haven't shoot with this combo on Pentax and I don't know how is the af and if you'll have af on K1 and K3. Someone said above that af is ok when a 1.4x TC is added. I'm a little skeptical (without trying to offend anyone) when comes to af because both K3 and K1 have af points sensitive to f5.6, not to f8. The cameras that have f8 sensitive af points are usually the more expensive ones (D500, 80D, 5D Mark IV, 1Dx II, D5, etc.) and with those cameras you will have af and tracking at f8 when a TC is added on the lens. I will try and see if I can test a K1 with 150-450mm lens and 1.4x TC and I will get back with my impressions.

You probably won't go wrong with either K1 or 5D Mark IV. To mee, ISO is important because you don't know how the light will be on location and the difference in files will be visible between K3 and K1 or 5D Mark IV at ISO above 400-800.

I hope these informations helps.

Last edited by Dan Rentea; 08-09-2019 at 12:31 PM.
08-11-2019, 08:06 AM   #58
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rondec Quote
No. You can just choose APS-C crop on your third e dial and use it to change from full frame to crop mode and back again, regardless of the lens (or just do it from the info screen).

So, you can choose to shoot crop lenses in full frame mode too, if you want to.
Thank you @Rondec.

---------- Post added 08-11-19 at 08:07 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by wtlwdwgn Quote
IMHO, the K-1 II has a little bit better AF speed and tracking but probably not as good as the Canon. You can speed things up by shooting JPEGs as long as the highlights are not clipped. However I have gotten a few good wildlife images with it and the 150-450.
Thank you Steve. And the images are nice.

---------- Post added 08-11-19 at 08:16 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Dan Rentea Quote
You probably won't go wrong with either K1 or 5D Mark IV. To mee, ISO is important because you don't know how the light will be on location and the difference in files will be visible between K3 and K1 or 5D Mark IV at ISO above 400-800.
Thank you Dan.

I bought the K1 and 150-450.

The local good samaritan from whom I bought the gear was also kind enough to give me a K3 ii with 70-200 and 15-30 lenses on rent at zero cost. They apparently liked the way I put forth my request as a hobbyist :-)

But that creates a problem of plenty. I have to fit it all in a Lowepro 500 AW bag. And I dream of creating a good image or two in the Mara which can be classified as "fine art" landscape image in high resolution. I have conceptualised a few images which I was thinking of shooting with the 645Z with the 28-45 or 90mm and then stitch them together to create huge panoramas.

So may be I will still leave the K3 ii behind, and take the three lenses viz. 15-30, 70-200 and 150-450 for the K1 and 28-45 and 90mm for the Z. I do not see any other way and perhaps this kit is the most optimal kit as I can see it for the kind of things that I wish to do.

Last edited by leonine; 08-11-2019 at 10:04 AM.
08-11-2019, 09:35 AM   #59
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QuoteOriginally posted by leonine Quote
Thank you @Rondec.

---------- Post added 08-11-19 at 08:07 AM ----------



Thank you Steve. And the images are nice.

---------- Post added 08-11-19 at 08:16 AM ----------



Thank you Dan.

I bought the K1 and 150-450.

The local good samaritan from whom I bought the gear was also kind enough to give me a K3 ii with 70-200 and 15-30 lenses on rent at zero cost. They apparently liked the way I put forth my request as a hobbyist :-)

But that creates a problem of plenty. I have to fit it all in a Lowepro 500 AW bag. And I dream of creating a good image of two in the Mara which can be classified as "fine art" landscape image in high resolution. I have conceptualised a few images which I was thinking of shooting with the 645Z with the 28-45 or 90mm and then stitch them together to create huge panoramas.

So may be I will still leave the K3 ii behind, and take the three lenses viz. 15-30, 70-200 and 150-450 for the K1 and 28-45 and 90mm for the Z. I do not see any other way and perhaps this kit is the most optimal kit as I can see it for the kind of things that I wish to do.
So, it seems to me like the obvious answer would be to pack the 645Z, the 28-45, the 90, then the K1 with the tele's. You'd have the FL's you seem to be interested in covered, no duplication. The only thing is if you wanted to do astrotracer with the K1 and the 15-30, then you'd not have much choice.
08-11-2019, 11:25 AM   #60
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QuoteOriginally posted by texandrews Quote
So, it seems to me like the obvious answer would be to pack the 645Z, the 28-45, the 90, then the K1 with the tele's. You'd have the FL's you seem to be interested in covered, no duplication. The only thing is if you wanted to do astrotracer with the K1 and the 15-30, then you'd not have much choice.
The 15-30 could be useful for focal length range not covered by the 28-45 on the Z. The latter is actually about 22-35 on FF. Then again, since most of the photography is from the vehicle, I don't know how much will I be able to use the 15-30.

I was earlier thinking of clicking multiple images with the 28-45 in vertical format and then stitching them to simulate the wider angle of view of a lens like the 15-30. I guess that should be possible.
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