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6 Days Ago   #61
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QuoteOriginally posted by leonine Quote
The 15-30 could be useful for focal length range not covered by the 28-45 on the Z. The latter is actually about 22-35 on FF. Then again, since most of the photography is from the vehicle, I don't know how much will I be able to use the 15-30.

I was earlier thinking of clicking multiple images with the 28-45 in vertical format and then stitching them to simulate the wider angle of view of a lens like the 15-30. I guess that should be possible.
Well, I have a Z and a K1upgraded, and I've got the 25 for the Z and the 15-30 for the K1. So, I'm aware of the differences. Nevertheless, you'd only have to stitch 2 images in landscape orientation to get a lot wider than the 28 end of the 28-45, which does not really seem onerous. After all, you are trying to cut down as I understand it, and the 15-30 is a chunk, as is the 28-45. A test at home would tell you how suitable it would be, and just what overlap you'd need. Not really sure you need to go with vertical unless you really wanted to.

Also, personally I find that everything I shoot with the Z seems wider than I expect. I shoot more "normal" FL ranges with the Z than I ever do with FF. One reason I really wish Pentax would re-do the 645 45. Very nice FL in 645, when the 35 is often just too wide. But this may just be me----a lot of my work these days professionally is in museum settings, and I have become very sensitive to stretching distortion in WA and UWA. So, now I see it in landscape situations much more.

6 Days Ago   #62
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QuoteOriginally posted by texandrews Quote
Well, I have a Z and a K1upgraded, and I've got the 25 for the Z and the 15-30 for the K1. So, I'm aware of the differences. Nevertheless, you'd only have to stitch 2 images in landscape orientation to get a lot wider than the 28 end of the 28-45, which does not really seem onerous. After all, you are trying to cut down as I understand it, and the 15-30 is a chunk, as is the 28-45. A test at home would tell you how suitable it would be, and just what overlap you'd need. Not really sure you need to go with vertical unless you really wanted to.

Also, personally I find that everything I shoot with the Z seems wider than I expect. I shoot more "normal" FL ranges with the Z than I ever do with FF. One reason I really wish Pentax would re-do the 645 45. Very nice FL in 645, when the 35 is often just too wide. But this may just be me----a lot of my work these days professionally is in museum settings, and I have become very sensitive to stretching distortion in WA and UWA. So, now I see it in landscape situations much more.
Thank you @texandrews. This is a really useful tip about using two images of Z to stitch to get a wider view. Besides, using 28-45 also allows me to use my 82mm filters while the 15-30 would need a very different approach and investment in the Lee SW 150 type filter system. In any case, I can't leave the vehicle so trying to get that imposing ultrawide look by perhaps including an intetesting foreground tree at close range is ruled out.

So, I guess the 28-45 and the 90mm with the Z, and the 70-200 and the 150-450 with the K1 is now the ideal kit to carry. If space and weight permits, i will take the 1.4X rear converter.

This decision has evolved after much advice on the forum. I wish to thank all members who helped me arrive at this optimal solution.

Last edited by leonine; 4 Days Ago at 10:05 AM.
5 Days Ago   #63
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QuoteOriginally posted by leonine Quote
Thank you @texandrews. This is a really useful tip about using two images of Z to stitch to get a wider view. Besides, using 28-45 also allows me to use my 82mm filters while the 15-30 would need a very different approach and investment in the Lee SW 150 type filter system. In any case, I can't leave the vehicle so trying to get that imposing ultrawide look by perhaps including an intetesting foreground tree at close range is ruled out.

So, I guess the 28-45 and the 90mm with the Z, and the 70-200 and the 150-450 with the K1 is now the ideal kit to carry. If space and weight permits, i will take the 1.4X rear converter.

This decision has evolved after much advice on the forum. I with to thank all members who helped me arrive at this optimal solution.
I came across this youtube channel for Ewan Dunsmuir, who is a Scottish photographer living down in New Zealand, who shoots stitched landscapes with the 645Z professionally. He also prints large and very large.
4 Days Ago   #64
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QuoteOriginally posted by interested_observer Quote
I came across this youtube channel for Ewan Dunsmuir, who is a Scottish photographer living down in New Zealand, who shoots stitched landscapes with the 645Z professionally. He also prints large and very large.
Hey thank you @interested_observer. The link is informative.

I have one question for using the big tele zooms: 70-200 and 150-450. Which type/ length of the arca swiss quick release plates would need to be attached to the respective lens collars? My Arca Swiss Monoball has a PU-60 bracket attached to it. Will it be adequate or I need a bigger bracket for attaching to the ball head also?

4 Days Ago   #65
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QuoteOriginally posted by leonine Quote
Hey thank you @interested_observer. The link is informative.

I have one question for using the big tele zooms: 70-200 and 150-450. Which type/ length of the arca swiss quick release plates would need to be attached to the respective lens collars? My Arca Swiss Monoball has a PU-60 bracket attached to it. Will it be adequate or I need a bigger bracket for attaching to the ball head also?
Well, I think I have a couple of answers for you....
  • In terms of mechanical/structural engineering, there are two points of view to consider. 1) the length of the plate to provide enough bite by the clamp (on the monoball) so that you do not introduce any "wiggle". 2) Probably at least as long as the a) lens foot; and/or b) the length of the clamp; 3) essentially the longest of the two. The rail would need to be able to hold the combined weight of the camera body and lens with out flexing.
  • If you are asking based on the length of the rail that Ewan Dunsmuir is using - as seen in his videos, he - I believe, is using a longer rail so as to get the front of the element over the nodal point on his tripod. In this way he is reducing / eliminating the occurrence of parallax in his images, so that when he goes to stitch, close objects that appear in both frames will stitch properly. Since he is shooting professionally, he really does not want to shoot frame that he is going to have to toss since they will not stitch well. This tends to be more of a concern with wide angle lenses with objects in the near foreground, but that does not eliminate the problem from the use of telephoto lenses, as items can also stick up into the two adjoining frames that might make stitching more difficult - but you will have more distance, and that will help reduce the problem.

4 Days Ago   #66
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Thank you.

I just wanted to know from those who are using these lenses the monoball head bracket size and the arca swiss QR plate sizes they are using in the field. I have the original Arca Swiss PU-60 bracket on the Arca Swiss Monoball. Will it hold longer QR plates like PU-100 or PU-150 if the latter are recommended to be fitted on the lens collars?

And which brand is good enough? In India, it is difficult to get Arca Swiss or RRS or Wimberly original plates or brackets at a short notice. Perhaps Neewer or Sirui may be available in local shops.
3 Days Ago   #67
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QuoteOriginally posted by leonine Quote
Thank you.

I just wanted to know from those who are using these lenses the monoball head bracket size and the arca swiss QR plate sizes they are using in the field. I have the original Arca Swiss PU-60 bracket on the Arca Swiss Monoball. Will it hold longer QR plates like PU-100 or PU-150 if the latter are recommended to be fitted on the lens collars?

And which brand is good enough? In India, it is difficult to get Arca Swiss or RRS or Wimberly original plates or brackets at a short notice. Perhaps Neewer or Sirui may be available in local shops.
Neewer is hit or miss. Sirui is consistently good.
3 Days Ago - 1 Like   #68
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I got the Benro P-40 for the 150-450. Hope the PU-60 on the ball head will be OK with it.

I also plan to live with the PU-60 on the 70-200 because I would, in all probability, be shooting the 70-200 hand held on the K1.

I hope the combination works eventually.

My first try with the 150-450 - hand held shots of the Indian Koel Male :-) cropped but no sharpening done

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1 Day Ago   #69
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QuoteOriginally posted by leonine Quote
K1 or Canon 5D Mark IV
Another vote for the K1, I wouldn't get too bogged down about AF speeds.

There are many legendary wildlife shots taken before AF was even invented, let alone not being the fastest available in the industry.

Lets be honest... most of the wildlife in Africa is fairly sedentary in their pace, as it's too damned hot to do anything else. Unless of course your spending your time, chasing Cheetahs or stuff about to be eaten, which can then get a fair lick on. Much like you would yourself I guess in that situation.
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