[stevebrot]

So one meters stopped down. Do I gather correctly that one would then have to open back up to focus and then stop back down to take the image, or would the camera close to the set aperture?

As noted above, the green button may be used to make an instantaneous reading applied to the shutter speed. There is also be the option of using the optical DOF preview switch to place exposure using an EV scale similar to how M mode works with lenses having mount contacts.

Automatic aperture actuation is fully functional such that the lens aperture remains wide open except for stop-down metering, DOF preview, and making an exposure. Once aperture and shutter speed are set, the experience is essentially the same as with any manual focus K-mount film camera in M mode.


Steve

[fiddlefye]

No. You use green button to make the measure. Operation is automated and you can keep the lens on desired aperture all the time. Just one simple press of button.

So I'm working out what the "green button" is and what it does. I gather it is one of the "configurable" buttons and can be set up to do stop-down metering? Then once all is set one simply releases the button, you're back to full aperture, trip the shutter and the camera takes care of the rest? The green button is in uncharted waters for me, especially as at this point I don't have a K-1 body to refer to...

[pschlute]

So I'm working out what the "green button" is and what it does. I gather it is one of the "configurable" buttons and can be set up to do stop-down metering? Then once all is set one simply releases the button, you're back to full aperture, trip the shutter and the camera takes care of the rest? The green button is in uncharted waters for me, especially as at this point I don't have a K-1 body to refer to...

There is no need to configure the green button itself. You do need to configure the K-1 by setting the menu item C4/26 to enable use of "aperture ring".

Then point your camera at a subject in M mode with your selected aperture set on the lens and press green button. The camera stops the lens down and takes a meter reading and sets a shutter speed. This happens in about a second. The lens then opens up again for focussing. Or you can alternatively use the mode explained above using the DOF switch.

Either way your best tool is the histogram. That will show you your actual exposure and you should look at this after every shot (even with a modern lens !)

[rawr]

Either way your best tool is the histogram.

Also worth noting that the K-1 sensor gives you such wide exposure latitude that you practically don't have to worry about nailing exposure in-camera anymore. Particularly under exposure, where the K-1 gives you miles of shadow-recovery capability in post.

This makes the K-1 (indeed all Pentax cameras since the K-5) very forgiving when using manual glass. Lets you concentrate on focus with old glass, not worry about metering so much.

[stevebrot]

The green button is in uncharted waters for me, especially as at this point I don't have a K-1 body to refer to...

The green button is the serious Pentax photographer's best friend. Its action and behavior vary according to context and often enough simply allows one to go back to some base condition.* It is configurable, though in the last 12 years shooting Pentax dSLRs, I have never found the need to subvert or change its behaviors.


Steve


* A good example might be exposure compensation where the green button may be used as a short cut to set EC to 0.

[Take-5-JB]

My K-1 bag has a Sigma A 28/2.8, Pentax K55/1.8, Pentax M100/2.8, Pentax A 35-105/3.5, and Tamron 70-200/2.8 Di LD Macro auto lens. The A35-105/3.5 stays on most of the time. I use Circ Polarizing filters. My wildlife K3/K5 bag has a Pentax DA*300/4 and non-pentax manual lenses up to 400mm. For your question, the manual Pentax K55/1.8 and Pentax M100/2.8 are quite good. I started in 1977 with film SLR cameras so I am used to manual and "A" lenses.

JB

[Lowell Goudge]

So one meters stopped down. Do I gather correctly that one would then have to open back up to focus and then stop back down to take the image, or would the camera close to the set aperture?

No. You set the camera to manual mode and press the green button, this sets the shutter to the correct value, based on iso setting and aperture value.

The camera allows for open aperture focusing and automatically stops down to preset aperture value during exposure.

What I do is set the metering/exposure to spot, then with the green button by pointing the camera at a Paved road or tree trunk (middle grey) and leave the exposure set there until the lighting changes.

Works just fine,

[James also]

I have used a 50mm lens that came with my ME super all those years ago and got some good results. and I have toyed with a 135mm but for some reason I got a little bit of ghosting which didn"t happen with the K7.

[fiddlefye]

Thanks for the responses. I think I'm starting to get a handle on things a bit. Next is to get my hands on a K-1!

[SirTomster]

Also worth noting that the K-1 sensor gives you such wide exposure latitude that you practically don't have to worry about nailing exposure in-camera anymore. Particularly under exposure, where the K-1 gives you miles of shadow-recovery capability in post.

This makes the K-1 (indeed all Pentax cameras since the K-5) very forgiving when using manual glass. Lets you concentrate on focus with old glass, not worry about metering so much.

This is very nice to have when you are in a rush taking an image.

[rml63]

I asked a question about sekonic meters in the lighting forum, but since we are sort of on the subject of metering. Do any of you guys use an external light meter? I shoot all manual lens on my K1 and while I agree there is a lot of range, the idea of taking several readings from a landscape scene and having the meter average them sure sounds appealing .

Mike

[pschlute]

I asked a question about sekonic meters in the lighting forum, but since we are sort of on the subject of metering. Do any of you guys use an external light meter? I shoot all manual lens on my K1 and while I agree there is a lot of range, the idea of taking several readings from a landscape scene and having the meter average them sure sounds appealing .

Mike

I do have a handheld meter but use that for flash work. Although "K" and M lenses limit you to centre weighted rather than matrix, you can still use the K1 spot meter and average the readings yourself. I find that the histogram gives me the clues I need if unsure about metering a scene.

[GUB]

I asked a question about sekonic meters in the lighting forum, but since we are sort of on the subject of metering. Do any of you guys use an external light meter? I shoot all manual lens on my K1 and while I agree there is a lot of range, the idea of taking several readings from a landscape scene and having the meter average them sure sounds appealing .

Mike

I may do (I have plenty of lightmeters sitting around!) if I didn't have the digital preview function available. It does all a lightmeter can do and then some.

[Wheatfield]

I've recently got back into Pentax via a LX and a group of K and M lenses that came my way. I've been shooting Nikon film (for decades) and full-frame digital (for several years) and using my manual focus glass is pretty much the same experience in both instances. I'm wondering how well the older manual focus K mount lenses work out on full frame Pentax?

I have a fairly extensive kit of Pentax glass ranging from 15mm up to 600mm, mostly A series, some M and K series. My experience is that the wider lenses suffer more and more from vignetting, with my A15/3.5 having around a stop and a half at the edges. The longer lenses are fine, anything from around 28mm and up won't show vignetting under normal pictorial circumstances. The A20/2.8 and A24/2.8 are good as long as they are stopped down one or more stops. As for sharpness, I have no complaints with any of the Pentax lenses. Full disclosure, I'm a pictorialist, not a pixel peeperist, so take that comment for what it's worth.
Having said that, what I was more or less satisfied with regarding my much loved 50mm lenses until I got the D FA 50/1.4. I very quickly became very dissatisfied with my older lenses at that point.
Watch out for the lenses that advertise the FREE optical formula. They can be prone to sensor reflections.

---------- Post added Jan 16th, 2020 at 11:21 AM ----------

I asked a question about sekonic meters in the lighting forum, but since we are sort of on the subject of metering. Do any of you guys use an external light meter? I shoot all manual lens on my K1 and while I agree there is a lot of range, the idea of taking several readings from a landscape scene and having the meter average them sure sounds appealing .

Mike

I have a Zone VI modified Pentax spot meter that I use from time to time. I use it exactly the same way I used it when I shot 4x5 film, I meter the brightest part of the scene I want to hold detail, set it at Zone VIII or IX and take the picture.

[monochrome]

I asked a question about sekonic meters in the lighting forum, but since we are sort of on the subject of metering. Do any of you guys use an external light meter? I shoot all manual lens on my K1 and while I agree there is a lot of range, the idea of taking several readings from a landscape scene and having the meter average them sure sounds appealing .

Mike

I carry a Sekonic L-398 and a Sekonic Auto Leader in my bag, but green button metering is generally good enough.