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10-15-2020, 08:29 AM   #1
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Multi shooting in Bulk mode

Hi


I'd like that option in B mode, it'd be very useful to make time lapse video. Instead of shooting every 1 minute or less I would like to configure my camera to make it for at least 10 times togheter so I am able to pee... I don't have noboby to tell "hold my Pentax remote control" while I need to shoot at least for 45' minimum.


Has Mark II this option? I don't use Canon but I heard they have it.

10-15-2020, 01:12 PM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by corvaz Quote
Has Mark II this option?
The short answer is no, timed B mode is not available with interval shooting on any Pentax dSLR. The longer answer is that timed B mode is accessible using a wired intervalometer. Also an option would be using a wired intervalometer to time both the exposure and the intervals.


Steve

Last edited by stevebrot; 10-15-2020 at 10:15 PM.
10-15-2020, 09:01 PM   #3
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Get the IR remote and you can still shoot while peeing?
10-16-2020, 04:14 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by leekil Quote
Get the IR remote and you can still shoot while peeing?
Sorry guys I made a mistake. Last times I used in Manual mode instead. I don't know if astrotracer works in M mode, but even 30'' exposure time, stars were without trails. All my shots were 30''. Windows detalis said I used in M mode.


I always use remote control! Pentax should sell remote control as a very suggested option I think. Anyway Remote control might fails when is not direct to the red led. Last time I made 1 h and 30' of shooting, and I ruined it in the middle cause I realised too late remote control didn't go. I would like to tell Pentax to add a feature as at least 10 continuous shooting.

---------- Post added 10-16-20 at 04:43 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
The short answer is no, timed B mode is not available with interval shooting on any Pentax dSLR. The longer answer is that timed B mode is accessible using a wired intervalometer. Also an option would be using a wired intervalometer to time both the exposure and the intervals.


Steve
What's the difference between remote control and wired intervalometer?


Last edited by corvaz; 10-16-2020 at 04:38 AM.
10-16-2020, 07:36 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by corvaz Quote
What's the difference between remote control and wired intervalometer?
From your comments, it appears you are using an IR (optical) remote control with your K-1. Your camera also supports the option of a wired remote through a port fitting on the lower right labeled "Cable switch terminal" in the manual. With a proper device attached, one can do both full and half shutter press through the cable, without touching the camera. The cool thing is that the camera will respond as if it were the regular shutter button being pressed.

One can attach a cable with simple two-detent switch or one having an electronic timer capable of firing the shutter at regular intervals and holding the circuit closed (such as in B mode) for set period of time. The second type is called an "intervalometer". I have an inexpensive (< $30 USD) wired intervalometer that is much more capable than the interval feature built into my camera. One may also use a radio-activated trigger to fire the shutter at greater distance. That little port is very cool.

Pentax offers the basic CS-205 wired remote:

Pentax CS-205 Wired Remote reviews - Pentax Camera Accessory Review Database


I own a Bower RCLC1R wired remote/intervalometer:

Bower LCD Timer and Remote Shutter Release (Model RCLC1R) reviews - Pentax Camera Accessory Review Database Note that the RCLC1R is very similar to models sold under other brand names such as Vello and Neewer.

I hope this clarifies.


Steve
10-18-2020, 04:06 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
From your comments, it appears you are using an IR (optical) remote control with your K-1. Your camera also supports the option of a wired remote through a port fitting on the lower right labeled "Cable switch terminal" in the manual. With a proper device attached, one can do both full and half shutter press through the cable, without touching the camera. The cool thing is that the camera will respond as if it were the regular shutter button being pressed.

One can attach a cable with simple two-detent switch or one having an electronic timer capable of firing the shutter at regular intervals and holding the circuit closed (such as in B mode) for set period of time. The second type is called an "intervalometer". I have an inexpensive (< $30 USD) wired intervalometer that is much more capable than the interval feature built into my camera. One may also use a radio-activated trigger to fire the shutter at greater distance. That little port is very cool.

Pentax offers the basic CS-205 wired remote:

Pentax CS-205 Wired Remote reviews - Pentax Camera Accessory Review Database


I own a Bower RCLC1R wired remote/intervalometer:

Bower LCD Timer and Remote Shutter Release (Model RCLC1R) reviews - Pentax Camera Accessory Review Database Note that the RCLC1R is very similar to models sold under other brand names such as Vello and Neewer.

I hope this clarifies.


Steve
Yes I've got the Pentax wireless one which is very basic.
Thank you I think I need a new one.
10-29-2020, 11:16 AM - 1 Like   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by corvaz Quote
What's the difference between remote control and wired intervalometer?
Can I add extra ammo to the value of a $15-20 wired intervalometer over a standard remote control?

I shoot about 4TB of timelapse footage each year, so intervalometers are often the secret ingredient for making magic happen.

Incredible programming flexibility
Imagine you want to set up several remote cameras in hidden places around the city to shoot timelapses of the New Years Eve fireworks show.
You set them up, set your exposure, and leave them in place - starting at noon, and wanting them to activate for the show.

With the intervalometer, you put the sequence on a delay. At the proper time (11:55) the delay stops and the exposure sequence starts.
The camera shoots all the way through the interval you selected, then stops shooting (say 11:55p-12:25a).
All of that without even touching the camera or being anywhere near it.

Try doing that with the built-in intervalometer.

Better interval flexibility
With a wired intervalometer, you can shoot a timelapse with the exact same interval that your camera can read out. Want to take it at 1.3 seconds? How about 1.7? You can do it with external ones. You can't do it with the internal. Want to take it for 10 exposures of 0.7 seconds, wait 10 seconds, then do 10 exposures for 0.7 seconds, repeat ad nauseum? You can do it with the external. You can't even come close with the internal.

When shooting under changing light (ie bumping your exposure up and down during the sequence)
Using the built-in intervalometer, you can't change any of your exposure settings without disabling the intervalometer.
So you disable it, change your exposure, and start the internal intervalometer again. You've missed at least one, maybe 2 images in your proper sequence.
Also, every time you touch your camera and have to go through a button-pushing process, you're running the risk of nudging your frame.
Do that over and over for the 35ish-to-45ish exposure changes of day into night, and your timelapse footage waves around... and still has missing frames.

With the external intervalometer, sure you still have to touch your camera wheel to change your exposure, but all that other touching is 100% avoided.
You can also change your interval in the middle of shooting. Sometimes when I know that peak sunset colors are going to be quick, I'll cut the interval in half when the clouds are orange and pink, then bring it back to normal (or longer) speed when the climax is done.
This extends the period of beautiful colors in your footage, and can also fast-forward through the more boring parts by using a longer interval between shots.

You can do that all without touching your camera. Using the built-in, you've got to touch it to turn it off. Touch it a bunch to change the interval. You're missing frames now. Touch it again to resume the speedier interval. Repeat that to slow it back down.

Every time you touch your camera, you're risking changes in your framing. Played back at 24 fps, 30 fps, or 60 fps, those small changes are very noticeable. Those missing frames become very noticeable.

Last example, in practical usage.
Say you're shooting a fixed timelapse, but you recognize that a "decisive moment" is about to happen, or something where you want one precisely-timed individual frame that probably doesn't line up with your programmed interval. Just mash the big button on the remote. It takes a picture without interrupting your normal, set interval. You pull the photo out later as a still, and keep the rest of the sequence as a timelapse.

You can't do that at all with the built-in intervalometer.

Back to the original point of the thread
You need to step away from the camera for a bit. Just set your interval time between frames, hit the "START" button, and walk away. Works in M mode, Av mode, Bulb mode, whatever. The intervalometer doesn't know how you're shooting. It just knows to count to "X", then send the signal.
10-29-2020, 02:18 PM - 1 Like   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by disasterfilm Quote
Back to the original point of the thread
You need to step away from the camera for a bit. Just set your interval time between frames, hit the "START" button, and walk away. Works in M mode, Av mode, Bulb mode, whatever. The intervalometer doesn't know how you're shooting. It just knows to count to "X", then send the signal.
Yay! You should pull this comment out as a thread of its own to be placed as a sticky somewhere on the site. There is only one thing I might add:

Interval within an interval
It is possible to use an external intervalometer to trigger an interval set using the camera's interval mode. (Let that settle in the brain and ways to use it will come to mind...)


Steve

10-29-2020, 05:02 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
It is possible to use an external intervalometer to trigger an interval set using the camera's interval mode. (Let that settle in the brain and ways to use it will come to mind...)
Now *that* is an excellent addition I certainly hadn't ever thought of. Great point!
On to finding a problem in which this is the most efficient or elegant answer... hmmm....
11-01-2020, 02:54 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by disasterfilm Quote

When shooting under changing light (ie bumping your exposure up and down during the sequence)
Using the built-in intervalometer, you can't change any of your exposure settings without disabling the intervalometer.
So you disable it, change your exposure, and start the internal intervalometer again. You've missed at least one, maybe 2 images in your proper sequence.
Also, every time you touch your camera and have to go through a button-pushing process, you're running the risk of nudging your frame.
Do that over and over for the 35ish-to-45ish exposure changes of day into night, and your timelapse footage waves around... and still has missing frames.

With the external intervalometer, sure you still have to touch your camera wheel to change your exposure, but all that other touching is 100% avoided.
You can also change your interval in the middle of shooting. Sometimes when I know that peak sunset colors are going to be quick, I'll cut the interval in half when the clouds are orange and pink, then bring it back to normal (or longer) speed when the climax is done.
This extends the period of beautiful colors in your footage, and can also fast-forward through the more boring parts by using a longer interval between shots.

You can do that all without touching your camera. Using the built-in, you've got to touch it to turn it off. Touch it a bunch to change the interval. You're missing frames now. Touch it again to resume the speedier interval. Repeat that to slow it back down.

Every time you touch your camera, you're risking changes in your framing. Played back at 24 fps, 30 fps, or 60 fps, those small changes are very noticeable. Those missing frames become very noticeable.
Hi


That's what happened to me shooting from night to day with Sun rising from the sea. The problem was exposure... when Sun is coming there are few minutes then seconds for changing camera setting... Everything becomes manual, the exposure time needs to be changed so that, at least in my case, an intervalometer can do the job during the night only. I have to try with ND or GND filters but is not easy with under/over expsure landscape or Sun. Touching camera is an inevitable risk.


Which intervalometer do you use?
11-01-2020, 08:20 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by corvaz Quote
Hi
Which intervalometer do you use?
Pretty much all of them on the market operate the same way. I have a pile of them because I'm infrequently shooting multiple cameras (and they tend to wear out after a few years of use).

I carry 2 with me as part of my normal bag - the Vello Shutterboss II, and a smaller JJC one.

The shutterboss commonly goes on sale for $25 at B&H - look for their big DealZone when it comes up on Black Friday. I like the Shutterboss because its timer is more reliable than the much cheaper than the $15 Neewer and Chinese models (sometimes you set your interval for "X" seconds, and it runs at "X+1" or "X-1" for no reason), and the shutterboss has a M-F cable junction in the middle of the line, so you can switch in whether you have a 2.5mm jack (K-1, K-3, K-5s, etc) or a 3.5mm jack (KP & K70).

The JJC is good too, but the cable is uninterrupted from unit to plug, so you're stuck with one option (and you can't replace the cable if it wears out or the connector goes bad).

On the actual timelapse technique stuff - yeah, shoot these in manual and keep eagle eyes on your light meter to adjust. When I'm sitting at my CPU I keep remembering that I should try the phone controller for the KP so I never have to touch the camera to change settings, but in the field I never do. You'll get the touch right for what it takes to adjust your shutter speed or aperture to balance exposures on the fly, and how to do it without knocking your framing a few pixels off too.
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