Forgot Password
Pentax Camera Forums Home
 

Reply
Show Printable Version Search this Thread
09-14-2021, 11:29 AM   #16
New Member




Join Date: Sep 2021
Posts: 8
Surely "the best" is the one you get most enjoyment out of? My idea of "the best" will be different from yours and everyone else different from that.

09-14-2021, 11:33 AM - 2 Likes   #17
Pentaxian




Join Date: Feb 2015
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 9,166
QuoteOriginally posted by Markpszk Quote
What is the best Pentax camera body?
Pentax 6x7

QuoteOriginally posted by Markpszk Quote
The sharpest focus?
The plane of focus

QuoteOriginally posted by Markpszk Quote
The most professional equipment?
An invoice book
09-14-2021, 12:38 PM - 1 Like   #18
Loyal Site Supporter
Loyal Site Supporter
UncleVanya's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2014
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 20,432
QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
But it's not ok to think a "pro camera" will make you a "pro photographer". A "pro photographer" will take "pro" pictures with ANY equipment.

I came across this article a while ago, and it's still a great read on the subject (and it involves the Best Deal in Photographyô, the lowly Pentax 50 1.7 lens): I Got Tired Of People Giving My Camera The Credit For My Photos, So I Bought The Cheapest Camera And Lens I Could Find To Prove Them Wrong | Bored Panda

The cheap camera challenge videos on digital rev were classic examples of this:
cheap camera challenge digital rev - Google Search
09-14-2021, 12:55 PM   #19
Site Supporter
Site Supporter
c.a.m's Avatar

Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 3,157
QuoteOriginally posted by Markpszk Quote
What is the best Pentax camera body? The sharpest focus? The most professional equipment?
Not intending to offend, I think it's a difficult question to answer. I would say that "best" depends on your comparison criteria.

If cost is critically important, then a lower-priced camera would satisfy the requirement, regardless of its specifications or features. For example, a Pentax K-70. If a high frame rate is desired, then a K-3 Mark III might be the best. Best optical viewfinder in an APS-C camera? K-3 Mark III. Best Pentax DSLR camera for portability? Perhaps the KP. Best film SLR? Some would say the Pentax LX.

For me, the best digital Pentax camera is in the APS-C line, partly because I favour relatively lightweight, compact gear. My K-3 II hit a sweet-spot for price, performance, optical quality, and portability. The K-3 Mark III brings a significant advancement in features and performance, albeit at a premium price.

- Craig

09-14-2021, 12:57 PM - 1 Like   #20
Loyal Site Supporter
Loyal Site Supporter
UncleVanya's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2014
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 20,432
I failed to mention the 645z which as someone else pointed out can be the appropriate camera for certain pro users.

---------- Post added 09-14-21 at 04:14 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Markpszk Quote
What is the best Pentax camera body? The sharpest focus? The most professional equipment?
I went back and looked and you already own the k1ii and some fine full frame gear. Iíll tackle the question with a different angle than before:

Best Camera - as many have said it is the one you have with you. But in more conventional terms Iíd say the most advanced camera available from Pentax is the K3iii. The K1ii is probably next and then the KP. Remember thatís changing the focus from ďbestĒ to most advanced. If you want pure image quality Iíd say 645z, k1/k1ii, then K3iii but the order could vary depending on what the expectations are. The noise reduction accelerator can be negatively viewed by some. I think itís a toss up. If the criteria is sports then the k3iii wins.

The sharpest focus - as someone else said thatís more about the lens. Manual focus is always an option! To be fair Iíd like to change the emphasis from sharpness to something else. But Iíll give it a go as is. The 645z probably is slower and focus might be less accurate in tracking etc. but manually adjusted fine focus is probably going to be the best for a couple of reasons: 1) viewfinder size and magnification 2) image pixels. Taking the ďsharpestĒ to mean most accurate - the k3iii seems like a no brainer.

The most professional camera - in Pentax I would say if the question is what Pentax camera is most often used professionally I would make a guess it is the k1/k1ii series. The 645z certainly might be a camera that has perhaps more pro level pricing but I think thatís a misread as pro level support is lacking in the entire lineup top to bottom. Pros using Pentax - like those using other Brands without pro level support make their own contingency plans and backup plans. It can and does happen that pros shoot Pentax but I donít know that anyone has reliable data on what models are most used by pros.

Last edited by UncleVanya; 09-14-2021 at 01:15 PM.
09-14-2021, 09:18 PM - 1 Like   #21
New Member




Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 7
QuoteOriginally posted by biz-engineer Quote
The most professional piece of equipment is a tripod and lighting kit (flashes, reflectors, backdrops), because it is the piece of equipment that enable professional photographic results even with a bad camera and a mediocre lens. Historically, professionals have always been seen with tripods and lighting tools, whether it was in a studio, indoors, historical places and in outdoors landscape photography context, regardless what camera and lenses were used. Autofocus has never been a professional requirement, Pros have shot weddings, portraits and journalism with manual focus camera and lens.
Now I know why I leave mine up getting in the way. Inspiring to have a new rationalization for my bad habits. Not sure I will get to the 'professional' bit.
09-15-2021, 05:59 AM   #22
Site Supporter
Site Supporter




Join Date: Jun 2020
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 49
Original Poster
Planning for the future

OK!

Maybe I asked the wrong question or should come more to the point.
I was basically wondering if the technical aspects of certain camera bodies are better.


The fact is this: For business purposes, I need to purchase let's say around $15,000 on additional equipment.

I have a K-1 markii
HD Pentax-DFA 2.8/ 24-70mm ED SDM WR
HD Pentax-DFA* 2.8 / 70-200mm ED DC AW
HD Pentax-DFA* 1.4/ 50mm SDM AW

ME FOTO PMU60 tripod

I'd like to be well rounded with the equipment to explore.

What would you add? and why?

I do appreciate your comments and expertise!

Thanks!

09-15-2021, 06:46 AM - 2 Likes   #23
Moderator
Site Supporter
Loyal Site Supporter
Sandy Hancock's Avatar

Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Adelaide Hills, South Australia
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 9,879
Use the K-1 Mark II body you have. Buy a second one for backup.

Buy the DFA15-30/2.8 and a Lee filter system if you want to up your landscape game.
Buy the DFA150-450/4.5-5.6 if you want to up your birds in flight game. And a K-3 Mark III.
Buy the DFA*85/1.4 if you want to up your portrait game. And a wireless flash setup.
Buy the three FA Limiteds for their characteristic rendering and compactness.

That should make a decent hole in your $15,000 budget
09-15-2021, 06:47 AM   #24
Loyal Site Supporter
Loyal Site Supporter
UncleVanya's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2014
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 20,432
QuoteOriginally posted by Markpszk Quote
OK!

Maybe I asked the wrong question or should come more to the point.
I was basically wondering if the technical aspects of certain camera bodies are better.


The fact is this: For business purposes, I need to purchase let's say around $15,000 on additional equipment.

I have a K-1 markii
HD Pentax-DFA 2.8/ 24-70mm ED SDM WR
HD Pentax-DFA* 2.8 / 70-200mm ED DC AW
HD Pentax-DFA* 1.4/ 50mm SDM AW

ME FOTO PMU60 tripod

I'd like to be well rounded with the equipment to explore.

What would you add? and why?

I do appreciate your comments and expertise!

Thanks!
Lighting?
Upgraded Tripod?
D FA 85 f1.4 for shallow depth of field portraits at a comfortable distance.
D FA 15-30 f2.8 for wide angle landscapes etc.
HD FA 31 to complement the D FA 50 & 85
D FA 150-450 for long reach and fast focus.
K1 grip
D FA 100WR - for close shots.

Plus

Backup K1ii - this is essential
óóoróó
Alternate list if K1 backup can be apsc. This adds sports speed and reach also.

K3iii & grip
DA 55-300 PLM lightweight tele fast focus.
DA* 16-50 PLM
DA* 11-18
09-15-2021, 07:03 AM - 1 Like   #25
Pentaxian
ChristianRock's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: People's Republic of America
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 8,360
QuoteOriginally posted by Markpszk Quote
OK!

Maybe I asked the wrong question or should come more to the point.
I was basically wondering if the technical aspects of certain camera bodies are better.


The fact is this: For business purposes, I need to purchase let's say around $15,000 on additional equipment.

I have a K-1 markii
HD Pentax-DFA 2.8/ 24-70mm ED SDM WR
HD Pentax-DFA* 2.8 / 70-200mm ED DC AW
HD Pentax-DFA* 1.4/ 50mm SDM AW

ME FOTO PMU60 tripod

I'd like to be well rounded with the equipment to explore.

What would you add? and why?

I do appreciate your comments and expertise!

Thanks!
So if I understand correctly, this is for a tax writeoff?

Yeah adding the D-FA 15-30mm f/2.8 and the D-FA 150-450mm might round up your K-1 system, and a 2nd body would also help.

Plus if you are a landscape or portrait photographer, a 645Z system would be a great investment and really give you an edge over other systems. The 645 25mm f4 lens is highly regarded and only available used, but it's not hard to find one. The 645 28-45mm also has a good reputation, and the 645 90mm macro is also a fantastic lens. Round this set up with the 645 55mm f/2.8 "kit lens", the 645 75mm f/2.8 "pancake" and the 645 200mm f4 telephoto lens and there goes a big chunk of your budget. And you should be a pretty happy camper.

Of course Pentax isn't the only player in the medium format game, a Fuji system might also be of interest. I personally love the Pentax lenses and I feel connection to the brand, but Fuji makes really great stuff as well, and seems to be more invested in their 645 system than Pentax currently is.
09-16-2021, 04:27 AM   #26
Pentaxian




Join Date: Feb 2015
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 9,166
QuoteOriginally posted by Sandy Hancock Quote
Use the K-1 Mark II body you have. Buy a second one for backup.
Back-up for camera body, but no backup for each lens? It's not proven that lenses fail less frequently than camera bodies. Also needs a stack of memory cards and a pack of replacement batteries. I'd buy 2 x (K1 II + 24-70 + 70-200 ) and also two tripods and also two flash kits.
I have a K1 + K1 II + 24-70 + 28-105 (backup lens) + 70-200 2.8 + 70-210 4 (backup lens), 4 tripods and (unfortunately) one flash, I'm weak on the lighting.
09-16-2021, 05:49 AM   #27
Site Supporter
Site Supporter




Join Date: Jun 2020
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 49
Original Poster
More specific

ok,

I get the Professional thing.

I probably should of used the term: Technically superior for what I have in mind for my retirement.
Yes! it's photography.

What I want to have the capability of, is to be able to blow-up and print large format photographs.

like 2' X 3' minimum. 5' X 8' possibly. and maybe larger in-order to be the main focus for a large commercial wall. Bring life into the Architecture of a space; so to speak.

Could be abstract/ could be landscapes/ could be anything.
Although I can foresee some photos having merit to be out-of-focus, I would also like to have some photos spot-on focus like...blow away spot-on focus.

Would that be directing me to the 645Z camera? and can I use the lenses I have with that body?
09-16-2021, 07:04 AM   #28
Loyal Site Supporter
Loyal Site Supporter
UncleVanya's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2014
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 20,432
QuoteOriginally posted by Markpszk Quote
ok,

I get the Professional thing.

I probably should of used the term: Technically superior for what I have in mind for my retirement.
Yes! it's photography.

What I want to have the capability of, is to be able to blow-up and print large format photographs.

like 2' X 3' minimum. 5' X 8' possibly. and maybe larger in-order to be the main focus for a large commercial wall. Bring life into the Architecture of a space; so to speak.

Could be abstract/ could be landscapes/ could be anything.
Although I can foresee some photos having merit to be out-of-focus, I would also like to have some photos spot-on focus like...blow away spot-on focus.

Would that be directing me to the 645Z camera? and can I use the lenses I have with that body?
645z is the highest resolution Pentax / Ricoh available. And it has the most dynamic range sensor. So for some types of photos, Landscapes for example, thereís some advantage to using it. However, at these sizes the Brenizer method (Brenizer Method - Wikipedia) may be the best approach as the file sizes needed for 300dpi are massive. 100dpi may be sufficient depending on planned viewing distances. Hereís a link that gives some guidelines on the size of file needed for various print sizes ( How Large Can I Print My Digital Image? ? Pro Photo Supply ).

Given the relatively small gap in the k1 vs 645z and the expense of medium format and given your desired print sizes Iíd guess you could stay with the K1 - but there could be some benefits to going with the 645z. The tripod and head would necessarily need to be larger and stiffer and your workflow on the computer with large files will require more horsepower so to speak. Iím honestly unsure if the budget is enough to switch to the 645z and potentially upgrade the computer/monitor and tripod and any positioning gear needed for precision shooting using this method. My gut says that the existing gear is pretty good and investing in making it work may be a better choice than gear chasing. Perhaps a high grade prime to use as your Brenziner lens would be useful. The D FA 85 comes to mind.

Obviously spare bodies etc become less of a consideration if the earlier Pro comments were about quality not commercial work.

Edit: 5íx8í at 300dpi needs an original file that is 18000x28800 pixels. The k1 produces a file that has Max. image resolution: 7360 x 4912; the 645z produces a file with Max. image resolution: 8256 x 6192. (Sourced from digicamdb.com). Note also that the ratio of pixels is not the same so while the final ratio may seem to make one or the other format more appropriate, using this method already involves composing without a single view in the camera and requires many images taken in a single session which probably takes the ratio largely out of play.

Bear in mind another possible path is to use sophisticated software like Gigapixel. Hereís an article on the Fuji GFX 100 and how useless the pixel Shift feature is vs using this software. https://petapixel.com/2021/06/21/fujifilms-pixel-shift-feature-in-the-gfx-10...rly-pointless/. Iím not suggesting the Fuji (although a fine camera I think swapping systems is beyond the budget given the body costs 10k and there are other expenses to consider). Iím suggesting the use of the same software perhaps with the Brenizer method as the base for some images.

Last edited by UncleVanya; 09-16-2021 at 07:23 AM.
09-16-2021, 08:38 AM   #29
Pentaxian
ChristianRock's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: People's Republic of America
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 8,360
QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
Edit: 5’x8’ at 300dpi needs an original file that is 18000x28800 pixels. The k1 produces a file that has Max. image resolution: 7360 x 4912; the 645z produces a file with Max. image resolution: 8256 x 6192. (
This kind of calculation just assumes that the large print has the same viewing distance of a small print, where 300dpi is important (and I even question that, since the human eye can only resolve 220-230dpi, from what I read). 300dpi is really for pixel peeping with a magnifying glass.

Nobody will do that with a 5'x8'.

So I think a K-1 or 645Z image will be more than fine.

I would argue even an APS-C image would do fine when interpolated (as you mentioned) because of the viewing distance.

Is anyone here familiar with Roman Johnston? He seems to sell prints quite a bit, I guess mostly for office spaces, and a lot of his prints are about 3.5x5 (that's feet) and a lot of his most known/best selling pictures were taken with cameras with 12MP or even less (he's been around for a while and uses a D850 now).
09-16-2021, 11:12 AM   #30
Site Supporter
Site Supporter




Join Date: Jun 2020
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 49
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
645z is the highest resolution Pentax / Ricoh available. And it has the most dynamic range sensor. So for some types of photos, Landscapes for example, thereís some advantage to using it. However, at these sizes the Brenizer method (Brenizer Method - Wikipedia) may be the best approach as the file sizes needed for 300dpi are massive. 100dpi may be sufficient depending on planned viewing distances. Hereís a link that gives some guidelines on the size of file needed for various print sizes ( How Large Can I Print My Digital Image? ? Pro Photo Supply ).

Given the relatively small gap in the k1 vs 645z and the expense of medium format and given your desired print sizes Iíd guess you could stay with the K1 - but there could be some benefits to going with the 645z. The tripod and head would necessarily need to be larger and stiffer and your workflow on the computer with large files will require more horsepower so to speak. Iím honestly unsure if the budget is enough to switch to the 645z and potentially upgrade the computer/monitor and tripod and any positioning gear needed for precision shooting using this method. My gut says that the existing gear is pretty good and investing in making it work may be a better choice than gear chasing. Perhaps a high grade prime to use as your Brenziner lens would be useful. The D FA 85 comes to mind.

Obviously spare bodies etc become less of a consideration if the earlier Pro comments were about quality not commercial work.

Edit: 5íx8í at 300dpi needs an original file that is 18000x28800 pixels. The k1 produces a file that has Max. image resolution: 7360 x 4912; the 645z produces a file with Max. image resolution: 8256 x 6192. (Sourced from digicamdb.com). Note also that the ratio of pixels is not the same so while the final ratio may seem to make one or the other format more appropriate, using this method already involves composing without a single view in the camera and requires many images taken in a single session which probably takes the ratio largely out of play.

Bear in mind another possible path is to use sophisticated software like Gigapixel. Hereís an article on the Fuji GFX 100 and how useless the pixel Shift feature is vs using this software. Fujifilm's Pixel Shift Feature in the GFX 100 is Utterly Pointless | PetaPixel. Iím not suggesting the Fuji (although a fine camera I think swapping systems is beyond the budget given the body costs 10k and there are other expenses to consider). Iím suggesting the use of the same software perhaps with the Brenizer method as the base for some images.
Gear chasing is a great...to the point ...term. I appreciate you saying that. That's what it feels like.

I like your thinking, and thanks for all the info.

I will also look up Roman Johnston and a D850. thanks!!

I still have a leading question: Can I use my present lenses on the 645Z camera? and, if so, is there any advantage to it?

---------- Post added 09-16-21 at 11:13 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
This kind of calculation just assumes that the large print has the same viewing distance of a small print, where 300dpi is important (and I even question that, since the human eye can only resolve 220-230dpi, from what I read). 300dpi is really for pixel peeping with a magnifying glass.

Nobody will do that with a 5'x8'.

So I think a K-1 or 645Z image will be more than fine.

I would argue even an APS-C image would do fine when interpolated (as you mentioned) because of the viewing distance.

Is anyone here familiar with Roman Johnston? He seems to sell prints quite a bit, I guess mostly for office spaces, and a lot of his prints are about 3.5x5 (that's feet) and a lot of his most known/best selling pictures were taken with cameras with 12MP or even less (he's been around for a while and uses a D850 now).
I'm liking your thinking!

Thank You!!

I will be looking up Roman Johnston
Reply

Bookmarks
  • Submit Thread to Facebook Facebook
  • Submit Thread to Twitter Twitter
  • Submit Thread to Digg Digg
Tags - Make this thread easier to find by adding keywords to it!
24x36mm, 645z, body, camera, distance, file, focus, full-frame, gear, image, johnston, k1ii, k3iii, level, lot, method, pentax, pentax camera, pixels, plans, print, proffessional, pros, sizes, software, support
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
K50 body acting weird, time to upgrade camera body... Considering KP vs Sony A7 ii sachmo Pentax DSLR Discussion 20 06-27-2020 07:57 PM
For Sale - Sold: Pentax K7 body / K20D Body (Sold) / istDs Body (Sold) Richter Sold Items 2 10-31-2013 06:14 PM
Best starting lens? Cheap body and nice lens? or nice body and okay lens? lovemehate Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 52 10-12-2010 07:27 PM
Best Body or Best Lens? Pentaxie Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 38 04-21-2010 01:32 PM
istDS body, which lens best suits this body? ilozic Pentax DSLR Discussion 9 08-20-2008 01:50 AM



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:26 AM. | See also: NikonForums.com, CanonForums.com part of our network of photo forums!
  • Red (Default)
  • Green
  • Gray
  • Dark
  • Dark Yellow
  • Dark Blue
  • Old Red
  • Old Green
  • Old Gray
  • Dial-Up Style
Hello! It's great to see you back on the forum! Have you considered joining the community?
register
Creating a FREE ACCOUNT takes under a minute, removes ads, and lets you post! [Dismiss]
Top