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03-29-2017, 09:26 AM   #16
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There is video on YouTube from Tony and Chelsea Northrup on why lightroom messes up my images. Check it out. So as most people have said, when you look at the LCD you are looking at a jpeg preview, meaning that if the camera processed the photo this is close to what it would look like. When you import your RAW file to lightroom it converts it to the Adobe DNG color settings. Part of the assumption is that if you process RAW files you will give it your magic touch. If you want to use the Pentax settings all you need to do is in the Develop Module in Lightroom is click on Camera Calibration and change it. I think is says Adobe Standard and click on Embedded and you will get a file closer but not really like your jpeg. Remeber a jpeg out of camera has been processed already. So if that is what you are after you can mess around with Lightroom until you learn how edit your file and give it that Pentax processed look or shoot Raw+ and simply go with the jpeg if it meets your satisfaction. Some others have also hinted it looks like you might be ready to get a monitor calibrator and something like the color passport. It's your next step in reproducing accurate colors. I use all the time for my headshots. Most monitors are at least a full stop brighter than you out of camera image and this and the lack of color calibration can make a difference in your editing.

I hope this helps.

03-29-2017, 09:32 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by JohnX Quote
What's actually seen on the LCD is a jpeg thumbnail image regardless of whether you're shooting RAW or not, and will therefore be processed to some extent.

You can, and should, adjust the LCD image to reflect as best as possible the scene you're shooting. You'll find adjustments in the set-up menu for LCD Display Settings, in which you will be able to adjust brightness, saturation and colour.

As you're using LR you'll be able to adjust skin tones, etc, but I agree it's good practice to try and get it right in camera. One quick way to get this right is to take a test shot incorporating something like a grey card, or colour passport, both of which will give you accurate and reproducible references against which to process.

Take a look here>ColorChecker Passport - Camera & Image Calibration: X-Rite Photo & Video. There are other similar products.
thank you
03-29-2017, 09:33 AM - 1 Like   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by ShellyRosenberg Quote
So, it seems that I have to realize while out shooting that my LCD will show a more saturated and more red version of my photo because the raw file is really the more correct color but while out shooting I cannot check to see what I actually have unless I carry my laptop with me (HA HA).
That's about right. But even then, fine tuning the tones isn't something usually done on a laptop in the wild while shooting. You do it when you're back home, with plenty of time to PP, on a calibrated monitor.

The LCD is only there to check things that have to be done right when you take the picture: composition, exposition, focus, DOF... All things that cannot be easily corrected in PP or without some drawbacks. They have to be correct right from the start.

Almost evrything else, tones, WB, sharpness, saturation, just to name a few, all are software based and don't need to be perfect OOC. There are no drawbacks to adjust them in PP. Even if you just want a decent jpg OOC, you can still PP in camera when you're back home and take the time to adjust it to your liking. No need to lose time fine tuning the jpg while shooting.
03-29-2017, 09:34 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Angel Perez Quote
There is video on YouTube from Tony and Chelsea Northrup on why lightroom messes up my images. Check it out. So as most people have said, when you look at the LCD you are looking at a jpeg preview, meaning that if the camera processed the photo this is close to what it would look like. When you import your RAW file to lightroom it converts it to the Adobe DNG color settings. Part of the assumption is that if you process RAW files you will give it your magic touch. If you want to use the Pentax settings all you need to do is in the Develop Module in Lightroom is click on Camera Calibration and change it. I think is says Adobe Standard and click on Embedded and you will get a file closer but not really like your jpeg. Remeber a jpeg out of camera has been processed already. So if that is what you are after you can mess around with Lightroom until you learn how edit your file and give it that Pentax processed look or shoot Raw+ and simply go with the jpeg if it meets your satisfaction. Some others have also hinted it looks like you might be ready to get a monitor calibrator and something like the color passport. It's your next step in reproducing accurate colors. I use all the time for my headshots. Most monitors are at least a full stop brighter than you out of camera image and this and the lack of color calibration can make a difference in your editing.

I hope this helps.
it does help.... thank you

03-29-2017, 09:41 AM   #20
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When you want to check your images out in a simple editor to see what their appearance is, you may want to use Google Picasa. It will show you the images without alteration.

---------- Post added 03-29-17 at 01:02 PM ----------

Also, you can calibrate your image output with your computer display by getting a non-enhanced print. For example a 4x6 print from a Wal-Mart one hour photo kiosk without using the auto-enhance feature. You can compare the print under normal room light and adjust the computer display to resemble the appearance/brightness of the image (calibration).

Last edited by C_Jones; 03-29-2017 at 10:03 AM.
03-30-2017, 03:41 AM - 1 Like   #21
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While I agree with the text about Lightroom, I disagree with the thoughts about monitor calibration if you are serious about your images.

I am a big fan of hardware based monitor calibration. Right now I am using ColorMonki. Your brain lies to you when looking at the monitor by doing an auto white balance of sorts. Hardware based tools with optics that measure room light and displayed colors and grayscale are always going to be better than your brain. And frankly much faster to calibrate. The prints off my printer are a much closer match than trying to do this by hand. Further, I have two identical monitors, the only way to get them precisely matched is using hardware based calibration.
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