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10-25-2013, 12:58 AM   #31
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This is a feature that I couldn't care less about. I never use flashes, I firmly believe in ambient light photography.

10-25-2013, 01:26 AM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by Alizarine Quote
What i like about having higher STANDARD flash sync are effects like this (photo not mine, just saw it on the net, credit goes to the owner):
This is not a photo where faster shutter speed matters - it's a typical sample of what can be done with the regular sync and short flash duration. There is no ambient here, just a flash and its pulse time (t.1) becomes your effective shutter speed.
10-25-2013, 01:34 AM   #33
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You'r right Alizarine and as Awaldram said, Cactus V5 doesn't allow HSS. (see Aokatec for that)
U've got a Metz 58AF2, i can tell u that the Metz CAN'T be Master in HSS (yet without update)
So I use a 540 on Hotshoe or with a TTL cable (if it's too far for signal) to control my 2 58af2+ 2 48af1...(i can't do that if my flashes are into a softbox )
Another problem is that this 540 doesn't keep memory when it go in sleep mode !

I don't care about TTL (but it's needed for HSS), i just want to be able to transmit an highspeed signal to my flash and i really hope that the K3 will boost Pentax and that thirdparty as PocketWIzard, Odin or cheaper Yongnuo will offer us radio hss triggers
10-25-2013, 01:52 AM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by jaad75 Quote
This is not a photo where faster shutter speed matters - it's a typical sample of what can be done with the regular sync and short flash duration. There is no ambient here, just a flash and its pulse time (t.1) becomes your effective shutter speed.
Hmm, do you mean that the pulse should fire faster since it is now your "effective shutter speed"? Interesting. However, can t.1 be "controlled"?

QuoteOriginally posted by Catalana Quote
It is called hyper-sync. The flash duration of the slave at full power has to be fairly low. For the Metz 48 AF-1 it is 1/125sec, and I know that my Yongnuo560 will work as well.
It's sad to see that the built-in flash doesn't have its own HSS when the Q can - but oh wait that's only possible with Q lenses (because they have leaf shutters lol). I remembered I pulled off 1/1000s with a YN560 on S1 mode (at half power only, full power it won't fire) with a friend's Q but yeah it will work only with some Q-mount lenses

QuoteOriginally posted by novsky Quote
U've got a Metz 58AF2, i can tell u that the Metz CAN'T be Master in HSS (yet without update)
The last update was for AI servo... (so says the pdf that came with the download) still figuring how to work it out lol

10-25-2013, 03:05 AM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by Alizarine Quote
Well first off, using HSS reduces the effective power output and range of the flash. I have a Metz 58 AF-2, and I only go above 1/180s on it using P-TTL HSS. That means I'm limited to using it ONLY while mounted on the camera - resulting in a straight-on pop, with measurements done by the camera. .
The 58 has a bug so is not usable for HSS controller/master so unless you have a Pentax flash as well you cannot do HSS off camera, seem harsh to blame Pentax for a Metz bug ?

QuoteOriginally posted by Alizarine Quote
What i like about having higher STANDARD flash sync are effects like this (photo not mine, just saw it on the net, credit goes to the owner):
This image has nothing to-do with HSS or even shutter, It's a straight flash shot so is about Power and T.1 of the flash, answering you followup question
t.1 is directly proportional to the power required and depends on model you Metz manual will have a table to show .
but here is a couple
Metz 58 1:1 1/125
pentax 540 1:1 1/750
Once either flash is not powering flat out you into 1/10,000 or better .



QuoteOriginally posted by Alizarine Quote
Having a higher standard flash sync allows you to use even manual flashes with a wider option for action shots. While some may argue that the effect can be achieved by using faster apertures on lenses and ND filters, some shots just really need higher shutter speeds. Of course, not everyone would use that... but then again not everyone wants video and manufacturers continue (and improve) to stick 'em in still cameras. It's all about having more options, and in cameras like the K-3, having more options in-camera is always better.

1/180s standard flash sync limits action shots to movement that can be captured efficiently at that speed. Mounting an HSS flash on the camera will help solve the problem, but ONLY if you use it within its effective distance covered - and the faster you go, the closer you have to be to keep the exposure evenly lit. In that case, to achieve the same look and feel and angle and field of view, you might have to change lenses, or add in continuous light (which is more expensive usually).

So in a nutshell, it puts a roadblock/obstacle early on in your "shooting options while using flash"
1/180 -> 1/250 makes no odds fro 99% of shots
Manual flash use is not affected one way or the other as your exposure time is related to flash duration not curtain speed.

The only time a faster sync speed is an advantage is when trying to balance ambient to flash and the ambient forces the camera above 1/180 at the aperture you require.
Hence the ND filter being a partial solution, but given that the difference is a fraction fo a stop it more about whining than actual issue.

Having 1/1000 like the Q would be a whole different story but I wouldn't want Jello electronic shutter to achieve it nor would I pay fro shutters in lens fro the privilege .


QuoteOriginally posted by Alizarine Quote
not sure if you've tried them but thanks for the info.
The faster you go the more power you require , as a guide 3 fgz 360's firing @1/1000 will develop more power then 1 fgz360 @1/180
10-25-2013, 05:00 AM   #36
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I remember when some cameras had a sync speed of 1/60 sec.
10-25-2013, 05:24 AM - 1 Like   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by IchabodCrane Quote
I remember when some cameras had a sync speed of 1/60 sec.
Phooee I remember 'B' as the flash sync option
10-25-2013, 07:00 AM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by Alizarine Quote
What i like about having higher STANDARD flash sync are effects like this (photo not mine, just saw it on the net, credit goes to the owner):
1/250 or even 1/340 couldn't have frozen that movement. Probably what the photographer did was use the short duration of the flash (on my metz 50AF, 1/4 power is 1/2000) to freeze the action with the standard body sync speed. It looks like a set up shot, so he probably had a few large flashes to get enough light at the distance and timed the exposure by setting up the flash unit time duration.

10-25-2013, 07:15 AM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by jaad75 Quote
Do you understand the difference between the regular and high speed sync mode?
yes, what's your point, please explain the question!
10-25-2013, 07:34 AM   #40
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If anybody can answer a question i have, i am gretly thankful:
If there's one field i have yet to try it is this Wireless flash shooting! my question is this: Can regular flash sync and HSS both be used ? And what is the best way to go about it when using either of these? Thanks!
10-25-2013, 07:54 AM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by kricha6431 Quote
If anybody can answer a question i have, i am gretly thankful:
If there's one field i have yet to try it is this Wireless flash shooting! my question is this: Can regular flash sync and HSS both be used ? And what is the best way to go about it when using either of these? Thanks!
The Pentax 360 and 540 flash units both do wireless HSS. The one caveat is you need two units (the remote is triggered by the one on the camera hot shoe) unless you have a radio trigger that specifically supports HSS.
10-25-2013, 08:55 AM   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by IchabodCrane Quote
The Pentax 360 and 540 flash units both do wireless HSS. The one caveat is you need two units (the remote is triggered by the one on the camera hot shoe) unless you have a radio trigger that specifically supports HSS.
Thanks!
10-25-2013, 09:05 AM   #43
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QuoteOriginally posted by derekkite Quote
and timed the exposure by setting up the flash unit time duration.
There is no need (or way other than using different power levels) to setup flash time duration - you just use the one that is fast enough on full power (t.1 should be no longer than 1/500s, so t.5 is should be at least 1/1500s) or the one that diminishes the flash energy by capacitor switching or is controlled by IGBT, so it shortens the flash duration when the power goes down.
QuoteOriginally posted by kricha6431 Quote
Can regular flash sync and HSS both be used ?
What for? If your shutter speed is faster than the x-sync you'll have to use the HSS enabled flash that sends the pulses as long as the shutter curtains move or sync the regular flash with very long flash duration so it works the same way. Plus you need to sync it slightly sooner than the regular sync - If you sync it at normal synchronization time or even slightly sooner but with a short pulse flash, you're gonna get a shutter curtain shadow on your picture.
10-25-2013, 02:47 PM   #44
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QuoteOriginally posted by jaad75 Quote
There is no need (or way other than using different power levels) to setup flash time duration - you just use the one that is fast enough on full power (t.1 should be no longer than 1/500s, so t.5 is should be at least 1/1500s) or the one that diminishes the flash energy by capacitor switching or is controlled by IGBT, so it shortens the flash duration when the power goes down.
What for? If your shutter speed is faster than the x-sync you'll have to use the HSS enabled flash that sends the pulses as long as the shutter curtains move or sync the regular flash with very long flash duration so it works the same way. Plus you need to sync it slightly sooner than the regular sync - If you sync it at normal synchronization time or even slightly sooner but with a short pulse flash, you're gonna get a shutter curtain shadow on your picture.
thanks!
10-25-2013, 06:46 PM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by derekkite Quote
1/250 or even 1/340 couldn't have frozen that movement..
Exactly. In my experience, the difference in the ability to freeze action between 1/180 and 1/250 is seldom significant nor is the half stop, but I suppose in that instance... Neither of those speeds would really freeze serious movement, and both would do a pretty good job on a subject which wasn't exactly standing still, so we are really talking about a pretty narrow window of subjects needing a flash, but with ambient light, where 1/180 is not enough but 1/250 really hits the spot.

Now, if we get into sync speeds like the older Nikons which are in leaf shutter territory (1/500), then we have a real action-stopping capability. (IMO) For some reason, even Nikon is dialing those speeds back in newer models.
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