Originally posted by Alizarine Well first off, using HSS reduces the effective power output and range of the flash. I have a Metz 58 AF-2, and I only go above 1/180s on it using P-TTL HSS. That means I'm limited to using it ONLY while mounted on the camera - resulting in a straight-on pop, with measurements done by the camera. .
The 58 has a bug so is not usable for HSS controller/master so unless you have a Pentax flash as well you cannot do HSS off camera, seem harsh to blame Pentax for a Metz bug ?
Originally posted by Alizarine What i like about having higher STANDARD flash sync are effects like this (photo not mine, just saw it on the net, credit goes to the owner):
This image has nothing to-do with HSS or even shutter, It's a straight flash shot so is about Power and T.1 of the flash, answering you followup question
t.1 is directly proportional to the power required and depends on model you Metz manual will have a table to show .
but here is a couple
Metz 58 1:1 1/125
pentax 540 1:1 1/750
Once either flash is not powering flat out you into 1/10,000 or better .
Originally posted by Alizarine Having a higher standard flash sync allows you to use even manual flashes with a wider option for action shots. While some may argue that the effect can be achieved by using faster apertures on lenses and ND filters, some shots just really need higher shutter speeds. Of course, not everyone would use that... but then again not everyone wants video and manufacturers continue (and improve) to stick 'em in still cameras. It's all about having more options, and in cameras like the K-3, having more options in-camera is always better.
1/180s standard flash sync limits action shots to movement that can be captured efficiently at that speed. Mounting an HSS flash on the camera will help solve the problem, but ONLY if you use it within its effective distance covered - and the faster you go, the closer you have to be to keep the exposure evenly lit. In that case, to achieve the same look and feel and angle and field of view, you might have to change lenses, or add in continuous light (which is more expensive usually).
So in a nutshell, it puts a roadblock/obstacle early on in your "shooting options while using flash"
1/180 -> 1/250 makes no odds fro 99% of shots
Manual flash use is not affected one way or the other as your exposure time is related to flash duration not curtain speed.
The only time a faster sync speed is an advantage is when trying to balance ambient to flash and the ambient forces the camera above 1/180 at the aperture you require.
Hence the ND filter being a partial solution, but given that the difference is a fraction fo a stop it more about whining than actual issue.
Having 1/1000 like the Q would be a whole different story but I wouldn't want Jello electronic shutter to achieve it
nor would I pay fro shutters in lens fro the privilege .
Originally posted by Alizarine not sure if you've tried them but thanks for the info.
The faster you go the more power you require , as a guide 3 fgz 360's firing @1/1000 will develop more power then 1 fgz360 @1/180