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11-03-2013, 10:58 AM   #16
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I have tried this with the KIIS but it only allows you to align each successive photo. HDR auto works well with good results but only in jpg.

11-04-2013, 05:02 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by maxfield_photo Quote
Works in Raw or Jpeg, but in Raw, the displayed color temperature will be something goofy like 2 billion degrees kelvin. The image will still look fine.
Really annoying, the old K10 could do it without messing up the color temp. But since the K5 doesn't auto align multi exposures you still have to use a tripod, and then you might as well lower the iso.

So, does the K3 auto align so you can fire away handheld?
11-06-2013, 07:49 AM   #18
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Pretty sure the K5 does align the images - either that or I have an extremely steady hand lol! Just did a 9 shot multi exposure in raw of my ceiling fan at iso51200... unreal! here's a 100% crop.. no additional NR - just loaded in LR 5.2 and exported as JPG
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11-06-2013, 08:02 AM   #19
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I have admit I'm strugling to think of an instance where I would choose this over lower ISO and longer shutter speed. And vonBaloney your not going to handhold two shots let alone 8. For blurring moving things like water yes I use it for that.

http://wkoopmans.ca/notebook/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/K7_3579.jpg

11-06-2013, 08:03 AM   #20
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it's one of the main benefits from stacking astrophotos as well so I don't see why it wouldn't help with objects on planet earth as well
11-06-2013, 09:56 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by Painter Quote
I have admit I'm strugling to think of an instance where I would choose this over lower ISO and longer shutter speed. And vonBaloney your not going to handhold two shots let alone 8. For blurring moving things like water yes I use it for that.

http://wkoopmans.ca/notebook/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/K7_3579.jpg
Why aren't I going to handheld 2 shots let alone 8? (or 24?) The point is that I can use this to take night shots at high ISO/high shutter speed when I don't have or can't use a tripod and don't want flash either. I don't need to keep super-steady -- only normal handheld steady with fast shutter like in the daytime. Then the stacking software lines up the shots and removes the noise. (I've never tried this in-camera -- wasn't aware that it might possible align the shots.) The result is same as low iso, slow shutter speed shot with a tripod, except I don't need the tripod. The only drawback is that it is no good for moving subjects because you can't stack those.

But you can remove moving objects from single shots, so you can use this to take a static scene of something where there are always moving objects or people partially blocking it (but that get out of the way after a moment), so if a person or a car is here or there in only one of your many shots then they will just be removed. The same technique can be used in the daytime when you are at a popular spot and want to get a shot of something that always has a lot of people milling around in front of it -- then you do use a tripod but just keep taking enough snaps so you've got at least a shot or two with each part of your target clear. Then you stack and remove the people and you've got an image of the whole something with no people blocking it even though you didn't get any individual shots that way. Of course you have to worry about changing light and shadows too in the daytime...
11-06-2013, 12:13 PM   #22
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Original discussion is about using interval composite

QuoteOriginally posted by vonBaloney Quote
Why aren't I going to handheld 2 shots let alone 8? (or 24?) The point is that I can use this to take night shots at high ISO/high shutter speed when I don't have or can't use a tripod and don't want flash either. I don't need to keep super-steady -- only normal handheld steady with fast shutter like in the daytime. Then the stacking software lines up the shots and removes the noise. (I've never tried this in-camera -- wasn't aware that it might possible align the shots.) The result is same as low iso, slow shutter speed shot with a tripod, except I don't need the tripod. The only drawback is that it is no good for moving subjects because you can't stack those.

But you can remove moving objects from single shots, so you can use this to take a static scene of something where there are always moving objects or people partially blocking it (but that get out of the way after a moment), so if a person or a car is here or there in only one of your many shots then they will just be removed. The same technique can be used in the daytime when you are at a popular spot and want to get a shot of something that always has a lot of people milling around in front of it -- then you do use a tripod but just keep taking enough snaps so you've got at least a shot or two with each part of your target clear. Then you stack and remove the people and you've got an image of the whole something with no people blocking it even though you didn't get any individual shots that way. Of course you have to worry about changing light and shadows too in the daytime...
Two completely different things. The OP was talking about using interval composite to merge multiple images in camera at the time of capture. There is no auto align facility I don't know why people are mentioning this as it defeats most of the intent of using multiple exposures.
11-06-2013, 01:16 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by Painter Quote
Two completely different things. The OP was talking about using interval composite to merge multiple images in camera at the time of capture. There is no auto align facility I don't know why people are mentioning this as it defeats most of the intent of using multiple exposures.
BUT, what *I* was responding to was this (and quoted it just before response): "Having said that, multi-frame noise reduction works very well, though I have yet to find a practical use for it against that of a slower shutter and lower ISO myself". So, I wasn't talking about in-camera merge, but post-merge, and one circumstance in which that might be preferable to low ISO/slow shutter.

11-06-2013, 01:49 PM   #24
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I'd love to hear more about this on the K3. If it is like what is on my Fuji X10/X20 it would be wonderful for low light or night shooting handheld.
It is one of my favorite features of the X10/X20 Toy Cameras.
How it works on them......One snap and it takes 4 exposures of varying values, combines them in camera and does the alignment too. The product is a finished Jpeg. I think it is also possible to save each frame if you so desire?....I've never checked that out, I'm always very happy with the camera result.
I'd sure like to know more of this capability on the K3? The more shots, the better the result would be!

X20 Handheld-ISO 1000-F2.0-1/30 It was fairly dark when I shot this, the courthouse lacked any detail to the naked eye.
[IMG] [/IMG]

Regards!
11-06-2013, 02:25 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rupert Quote
One snap and it takes 4 exposures of varying values
The "varying values" bit probably indicates in-camera HDR.

Interval (multiple expoasure) shooting, which is the topic here, has the same exposure setting for each shot.

Dan

Last edited by dosdan; 11-06-2013 at 02:31 PM.
11-06-2013, 04:36 PM   #26
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Being annoyingly pedantic here: in Ricoh/Pentax land, "composite" refers to the multiple exposure function and "interval" refers to the time between successive shots. So the Composite Interval mode has both functions in one menu to make it easy for the user. It is brilliant.

The manual does not explain the difference between the three composite settings Average, Additive and Bright. The first two are self-explanatory but I have no idea when one would use Bright setting. I have tested it and it indeed comes out brighter than Average but no idea if it does any averaging of pixels.

Jack
11-06-2013, 07:25 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by noVICE Quote
Thanks! I can't wait to get this a shot.

....sheesh, I should have thought of that....need more sleep.
Photoshop has some built in tools to automate the averaging, you can load a set of images into a smart object, and set the stack mode to mean (average). It does a good job of aligning the layers too (if you check automatically align source images). A bit more detail about the feature can be found at Loading Files into Stacks (the menu options for this feature are a bit obscure).
11-06-2013, 08:29 PM   #28
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Bright

QuoteOriginally posted by jbinpg Quote
Being annoyingly pedantic here: in Ricoh/Pentax land, "composite" refers to the multiple exposure function and "interval" refers to the time between successive shots. So the Composite Interval mode has both functions in one menu to make it easy for the user. It is brilliant.

The manual does not explain the difference between the three composite settings Average, Additive and Bright. The first two are self-explanatory but I have no idea when one would use Bright setting. I have tested it and it indeed comes out brighter than Average but no idea if it does any averaging of pixels.

Jack
I am going to do some more testing but bright appears to ignore pixels bellow a certain threshold that way black areas do not get added an darken the bright areas. This is an example of three shots combined with bright, just playing around.

11-06-2013, 10:11 PM   #29
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It does work, but you have to work from a tripod. If indeed one could shoot handheld and the camera automatically aligns them, that would be really handy.

Last edited by regor; 11-06-2013 at 10:18 PM.
11-07-2013, 07:15 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by dosdan Quote
The "varying values" bit probably indicates in-camera HDR.

Interval (multiple expoasure) shooting, which is the topic here, has the same exposure setting for each shot.

Dan
I'm not certain, I'd have to do some research, but I think it is based on different ISO values? The shots don't seem to have a HDR appearance.
Could you bracket the K3 at different ISO levels, and would the K3 combine them to eliminate noise and shake?

Here at ISO 3200, which would normally be very noisy on the small sensor of the X10.
X10-Pro Low Light setting....4 shots combined and aligned in-camera handheld.
[IMG] [/IMG]

Regards!
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