[Pentaxaholic]

Just went out in the yard to give multi exposure a test run.
Settings: Composite Mode-Bright
Interval: 2 seconds
Number of shots: 5
35mm SMC Pentax manual lens
F 3.5
EV -5
ISO 100
Exposure time 0.8 seconds

It's easy and fun. I'll be testing out all the other exposure modes! Creativity with the K3 is only limited by our imaginations! What's NOT to LOVE about this camera!

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Last edited by Pentaxaholic; 10-25-2014 at 07:51 PM. Reason: forgot a setting

[IchabodCrane]

Just went out in the yard to give multi exposure a test run.
Settings: Composite Mode-Bright
Interval: 2 seconds
Number of shots: 5
35mm SMC Pentax manual lens
F 3.5
EV -5
ISO 100
Exposure time 0.8 seconds

It's easy and fun. I'll be testing out all the other exposure modes! Creativity with the K3 is only limited by our imaginations! What's NOT to LOVE about this camera!

Help my confusion. How does this differ from just a 4 second exposure?

[Pentaxaholic]

Help my confusion. How does this differ from just a 4 second exposure?

It takes several exposures and only records the Bright Pixels so you will have no noise in the dark pixels-making an 'additive' composite photo with each exposure. You will see the 'additive'difference on each shot taken and can choose the one you like best I used a common, stationary subject, so it's probably not the best example of creative use for the function, but I can tell that it has more depth, seems more crisp/detailed like an hdr photo. Next time I will do a waterfall or something in motion. I started practicing star trails last night, battery exhausted before it was completed, but the exposure composites that I got were impressive. NO blown out pixels or noise. By the way-I set the camera for 5 shots, this is shot number 3 out of 5.

It would be very useful for creative shots if you wanted a very dark image that only shows the highlights.Also, If you made the same exposure time without the bright additive multi-exposure (ME) your surroundings would get light much faster. and start to appear like a dusk (or lighter) because a normal exposure changes the whole picture. Additive Bright Composite ME only records changes in bright areas of composition.

[IchabodCrane]

It takes several exposures and only records the Bright Pixels so you will have no noise in the dark pixels-making an 'additive' composite photo with each exposure. You will see the 'additive'difference on each shot taken and can choose the one you like best I used a common, stationary subject, so it's probably not the best example of creative use for the function, but I can tell that it has more depth, seems more crisp/detailed like an hdr photo. Next time I will do a waterfall or something in motion. I started practicing star trails last night, battery exhausted before it was completed, but the exposure composites that I got were impressive. NO blown out pixels or noise. By the way-I set the camera for 5 shots, this is shot number 3 out of 5.

It would be very useful for creative shots if you wanted a very dark image that only shows the highlights.Also, If you made the same exposure time without the bright additive multi-exposure (ME) your surroundings would get light much faster. and start to appear like a dusk (or lighter) because a normal exposure changes the whole picture. Additive Bright Composite ME only records changes in bright areas of composition.

Many thanks for the explanation. Does it work much more effectively than the special slow shutter speed NR?

[Pentaxaholic]

Many thanks for the explanation. Does it work much more effectively than the special slow shutter speed NR?

I haven't yet compared the two.

I went out last night and did some additive bright composite pictures of waterfalls from sunset to complete darkness. All I can tell you is that you will see NO NOISE! (mine were shot at ISO 100)
I posted the samples

[Doundounba]

Also, multi-exposure works in daylight when you have no ND filter and a (very) long exposure would simply be impossible to achieve. For example, you could probably make shadows of tall buildings disappear from a public square, even though there is no single time of day where there is not a shadow on a part of the square...

[Pentaxaholic]

Can you post some sample images?

[nomadkng]

Hi!

I've tried to search for a good tutorial on how to use the different multi exposure settings (Additive, Average and Bright) on the K-3. But no luck...
I went to the local water fall today, to simulate a ND-filter and a long exposure time, to make the water look like silk, and tried all of the settings, but the result was not overwhelming.

Anyone that has a good explanation on how to use the 3 different modes, incl. exposure settings (shutter time and aperture), number of shots, and some example photos? Of a waterfall or something else.

Yes, I have read the manual.

/Zantaphia

this might help:

Canon Professional Network - Multiple Exposure shooting

basically, additive you have to do the math on exposure of multiple images - average the camera does the math based on exposure and number of images it expects to take - bright is like stacking for astro photography, where the bright pixels are added and your signal to noise ratio is increased. it's the signal to noise ratio that makes astrophotography or any extreme low light situation so difficult to photograph.

[Doundounba]

Can you post some sample images?

Not sure if that's addressing me or not. If it is, I can't post samples because... I don't have a K-3! My K-01 bodies are limited to 9-shot multi-exposures, without any timer. The K-3's expanded capabilities in this area are one of the things that are pushing me to want a K-3.

That being said, here are a few multi-exposures from the K-01 where I didn't have ND filters and used this feature to get a longer effective exposure:

9 x 2.5s @ F/22 (shot over approximately 1 minute):




9 x 1/15s @ F/18:




And here's one where I tried to use it to get people to disappear in a very busy (very touristy) church. It mostly worked, but here having the shots much more widespread using a timer (ie with a K-3) it would have worked even better, as even using 7 x 15s @ F/13 consecutive shots, some people remained sufficiently still to appear in the final result.

[zantaphia]

Hi!

I've made a video about Interval Composite Average:

Youtu.be

Youtu.be

[Pentaxaholic]

Not sure if that's addressing me or not. If it is, I can't post samples because... I don't have a K-3! My K-01 bodies are limited to 9-shot multi-exposures, without any timer. The K-3's expanded capabilities in this area are one of the things that are pushing me to want a K-3.

That being said, here are a few multi-exposures from the K-01 where I didn't have ND filters and used this feature to get a longer effective exposure:

9 x 2.5s @ F/22:




9 x 1/15s @ F/18:




And here's one where I tried to use it to get people to disappear in a very busy (very touristy) church. It mostly worked, but here having the shots much more widespread using a timer (ie with a K-3) it would have worked even better, as even using 7 x 15s @ F/13 consecutive shots, some people remained sufficiently still to appear in the final result.

Thanks for the examples! Beautiful! I own the K-01 too, and LOVE it (especially for extremely low light and macro)
You wouldn't regret purchasing the K3! It's AMAZING! (yes, I paid full price, but got the grip and flu card-since, the price has DROPPED and it's well worth FULL PRICE)!

---------- Post added 10-29-14 at 08:51 AM ----------

Hi!

I've made a video about Interval Composite Average: Pentax K 3 Interval Composite: Average function - YouTube

Thanks a TON for sharing!

[LeRolls]

Hi!

I've made a video about Interval Composite Average: Pentax K 3 Interval Composite: Average function - YouTube

Nice vid! Never thought of using interval shooting to get rid of people in a shot.

[zantaphia]

Nice vid! Never thought of using interval shooting to get rid of people in a shot.

Thanks! :-)

[Pentaxaholic]

Hi!

I've tried to search for a good tutorial on how to use the different multi exposure settings (Additive, Average and Bright) on the K-3. But no luck...
I went to the local water fall today, to simulate a ND-filter and a long exposure time, to make the water look like silk, and tried all of the settings, but the result was not overwhelming.

Anyone that has a good explanation on how to use the 3 different modes, incl. exposure settings (shutter time and aperture), number of shots, and some example photos? Of a waterfall or something else.

Yes, I have read the manual.

/Zantaphia

Here are the night waterfall examples. I took a series of 10 shots. Keep in mind these are test shots, not intended to be award winning photos (LOL)
I'm posting half of the series, skipping every other one (as you'll get the idea on how the mode is additive)
Additive Bright Composite Multi Exposure Mode
Settings:
ISO 100
35mm SMC Pentax lens (don't recall the f/stop)
ev-5 (QUICKENS SHUTTER SPEED)
exposure length: 2 seconds (x10 frames=20 seconds total) In complete darkness (no moon)

Personal observations. (what I learned):

1.You need a VERY STURDY tripod. I didn't want to carry my good one through the woods and over cliffs, so I used a lightweight one. If you mess up one exposure, you pretty much mess up the series. I ruined what would have been some pretty cool composites because of my laziness. I won't repeat that mistake!
2. As with normal photography, your motion blur effect of the falls will be determined mostly by length of exposure. I took some during the day with short exposures and they didn't blur smooth, but added frozen motion. Keep this in mind and set exposure length accordingly.(exposure will not have to be as long as normal shooting because of the additive exposures though).
3. Daytime shots will require you to stop down your camera and (depending on light) probably require a ND filter as well to restrict light and chances of overexposure. (sure wish I could set my ISO at 50 on the K3 sometimes). Remember that you will be adding exposure in bright areas and it will be easy to overexpose skies, and other bright areas.
4. This mode has endless possibilities and is only limited by our imaginations!
5. If you check the box for camera to save, it will save every frame and you don't have to worry about taking too many shots risking overexposed results. You can then just pick the shot you like out of the series. If you don't check that box, you will end up with just the final image.
6. If I shut off the camera in the midst of the series it starts series over when turned back on (not where it left off). Unless (of course) you change the settings when you turn it on (prior to shooting).
I want to see if I can pause the shots without shutting the camera off and restart where I left off, I hit a button by accident and it paused the shots, but it was during star trails, so I don't know if it started over or continued where it left off.
7.To recompose and continue shooting, time the intervals long enough to give yourself time to re-position camera and do it between shots.
8. The interval for shooting has to be longer than duration of shot.
9. Settings cannot be changed once interval starts.
10. I LOVED my K3 before, now I TOTALLY AM IN LOVE WITH IT!~ FUN!

[Doundounba]

Thanks for the examples! Beautiful!

Thank you!

1.You need a VERY STURDY tripod. I didn't want to carry my good one through the woods and over cliffs, so I used a lightweight one. If you mess up one exposure, you pretty much mess up the series. I ruined what would have been some pretty cool composites because of my laziness. I won't repeat that mistake!

I use a light tripod, but you're right that it needs to be absolutely stable. I weigh it down with my camera bag. I also use the two second timer and/or a remote (since I need to trigger each shot individually on the K-01).

Note that if your goal is blurring water with an otherwise still subject, it might be a good idea to also take a single frame exposure (or save the individual frames on the K-3, I guess). That way, if there is some (slight) movement between/during some of the frames, you can combine the multi-exposure with a single frame in post to save the shot. This is what I did in the following shot, taken at the same time as the winter waterfalls shot above, but at 150mm rather than 20mm. The wooden platform we were on (I was with a group) was simply not sturdy enough to do a telephoto long- or multi-exposure while other people were milling about. So on the multi-exposure, the water was nice and blurry, which is what I wanted, but so was the snow, which was not what I wanted. Fortunately I also had a single frame that had the snow nice and crisp. My post-prod skills are not the greatest, but I think the final result (combining the single shot with the multi-exposure) came out OK. (And surely, if I had better "postprod-fu", it would have come out even better.) You could also use this technique to blur a waterfall while not blurring some spectacular clouds in the sky, for example.

9. I LOVED my K3 before, now I TOTALLY AM IN LOVE with it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! FUN!

Reviews often don't talk about these advanced features, but I'd be curious to know how other (non-Pentax) cameras compare with the K-3 in the realm of multi-exposure and interval shooting. Truly, the K-3's capabilities in this area are extremely advanced. What else out there can do a 2,000-shot multi-exposure?