Originally posted by dosdan Here's some stats. Today, I shot 1,582 K-3 raw files at a weekly daytime athletics meet. That took up 46.0 GB. Based on the 59.4 GB available space (with 1GB = 2^20 bytes, not 10^9) on a Sandisk 64 GB Extreme Pro SD card, I estimate that I'd be able to fit 2,042 shots on the card.
This was on the same battery. There was still charge in it. I don't normally look at the battery indicator, since I don't find them very linear, so I'm not sure if it was still showing all the bars or not. Much of this were AF.C bursts. The vast majority of these were shot with a Sigma 70-200/F2.8 II HSM (non-OS). So for sports use with this type of lens and this type of shooting, it appears you should be able to get at least 1,500 shots from a battery.
Since I only covered a portion of the events, namely hurdles, sprints and mid-distance, I can see that it will be easy to shoot 2,000+ shots at a meeting (I try to take multiple shots of every competitor) and get really bogged down in the selection, cropping, leveling (I shoot on a tripod to reduce this) and raw adjustment process.
Oh no, you're shooting RAW too? Events like sports and parades are about the only time I
don't shoot RAW. Culling 1000-2000 photos is bad enough. Having to PP them can be even worse. It's too time consuming for what most viewers will appreciate - especially if you're not being paid. And for that one "really great shot" you wanted the RAW for it's surprising how much manipulation you can still do on the JPEG. If the shot's that good in the first place you were probably close enough on the exposure and so-forth to be within the adjustment range you can handle on JPEG.
Something of a happy medium is using the free beta of Perfectly Clear Desktop (Windows-only for now, but I'll use whatever OS gets the job done):
Desktop | Perfectly Clear
You can use it on either JPEG or RAW files to quickly get improved results in batches without a huge temptation to tweak them more.
---------- Post added 02-25-14 at 03:17 PM ----------
Originally posted by wpompen I mostly shoot sighthounds at +/-50km/h, relatively close at 10 meters and can't accept the IQ of the Sigma at 2.8 that's why I added the Tamron.
I'm quite surprised by the AF in combination with the K3.
Originally posted by Alex Nostalgix Didnt know if I should make a thread or just ask here but what 70-200 is everyone using with the K3? I shoot motorsports that move around quite fast, so Im in the market of finding good 70-200 that wont miss too often! Kinda makes things easier in a way where theres only 4 choices for 70/80-200mm tamron, sigma, tokina and pentax. Leaning towards the Tamron as of now since my funds allow me to get more stuff and same goes for the sigma HSM II, how does the new Sigma 0S fair against the older model on the K3...pentax too much and tokina not so much info. Thanks!
Alex, perhaps you already realize this, but I just want to point out that there's a significant improvement in screw-drive AF performance over the last few generations of Pentax bodies. I noticed a real improvement going from the K-5 to K-5 IIs. And the K-3 reportedly improves upon that.
So if someone says the Tamron AF is too slow, it's important to note which body they're using (and it was probably a memorable and frustrating experience for them). It may well be fast enough if you're using a K-3. (I've been using only screw-drive primes, so I can't comment directly on the Tamron, but I know I wouldn't try it on anything less than a K-5 II/IIs).