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12-02-2013, 07:20 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by TER-OR Quote
So the solution is to deliberately underexpose? Then recover the exposure in RAW?
That may help, but it is not the solution. The LED problem is mainly colour, not exposure.

12-02-2013, 08:11 AM   #17
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I have seen a similar problem photographing some flowers. The image seems to "burn" when photographing bright fuschia flowers in sunlight. Think about some petunias and others with that reddish purple - the color seems to overexpose. Similar problem - but I wonder what a solution might be?
12-02-2013, 09:45 AM   #18
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@burb

Could you make available the dng of the first photo. I'd like to have a look to see what can be done in PP. I have fixed some photos with similar problems in the past, though they were shot with a Fuji camera rather than Pentax.
12-04-2013, 04:32 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by lister6520 Quote
@burb

Could you make available the dng of the first photo. I'd like to have a look to see what can be done in PP. I have fixed some photos with similar problems in the past, though they were shot with a Fuji camera rather than Pentax.
@lister6520

don't think i have them anymore..bad photos get deleted ) but let me check when i get home and if i still have it , i'll put a link.

12-04-2013, 01:27 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by lister6520 Quote
@burb

Could you make available the dng of the first photo. I'd like to have a look to see what can be done in PP. I have fixed some photos with similar problems in the past, though they were shot with a Fuji camera rather than Pentax.
found it . you have the link below. also just to say that the camera is just fine and smooth. here are 2 more photos from the same concert. one of me at iso 12800, hand held.. and one with the guys on stage when the proper light was on .. and not does horrible leds (no flash or proccesing was used.. and the with my face was shot jpg)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxEQRT-qgWoMdVN3d1VuZVhGQzA/edit?usp=sharing
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12-05-2013, 04:25 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by burb Quote
found it . you have the link below. also just to say that the camera is just fine and smooth. here are 2 more photos from the same concert. one of me at iso 12800, hand held.. and one with the guys on stage when the proper light was on .. and not does horrible leds (no flash or proccesing was used.. and the with my face was shot jpg)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxEQRT-qgWoMdVN3d1VuZVhGQzA/edit?usp=sharing
I managed to remove some of the worst of the blue. The bright blue on his nose is actually a bright reflection from from the blue light to his left. It cannot be fully removed without 'doctoring' the image - it was really there and is what you would have seen with your eyes, except that it wouldn't have appeared as ridiculously bright as it did in the original photo. The confused auto white balance grossly exaggerated it by boosting the blue channel well beyond saturation point, not only there but in many parts of the picture.

I have not done any 'airbrushing', just played with the white balance, levels and so on. First thing was to set the white balance to daylight which I believe does least alteration to the raw levels, this got rid of the blue blowouts and got a sort of reasonable colour balance. The rest was tweaking various sliders to get a better overall look.

I'm not sure the result is good enough to be useable as it is but with some more tweaking I think there is room for further improvement, especially in the skin tones.

You can download the full size picture from the link below the image.




https://www.dropbox.com/s/baizv9z7weoaaep/IMGP0063LR-full.jpg
12-05-2013, 05:50 AM   #22
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I just happened to the photo again and it occurred to me that it is still very blue. Perhaps I didn't initially notice because I was comparing it to the much bluer original but now looking at it in comparison with other photos it is looking like an aged colour reversal slide.

I tried adjusting the WB further in LR but even taking it to the maximum of 50,000K it was still bluish, so instead I exported it with that setting and then edited it further in AcDsee with +91% colour temperature and -21% tint. Perhaps not very orthodox but I think it looks a lot better. Or is it too warm now?

12-05-2013, 06:25 AM   #23
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Now imagine having to do all that for 200 photos...

That's (in part) why you see so many gig shot image sets in black-and-white. The photogs just give up on the effort of getting the WB and colours right under some lighting.

12-05-2013, 06:48 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by rawr Quote
Now imagine having to do all that for 200 photos...

That's (in part) why you see so many gig shot image sets in black-and-white. The photogs just give up on the effort of getting the WB and colours right under some lighting.
I don't know, maybe the same settings can be pasted on the whole lot of photos and then just tweak further the ones that need it? I guess it depends on how much the lighting changes between one photo and another.
12-05-2013, 07:09 AM   #25
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well to be honest , from 100 photos only 10 or so had that burns on .... i made the topic because this didn't happen before with previous camera. and the histogram looked strange .. it had an independent thin straight line from top to bottom with no relevance to the hole wave form ( not a peak from a wave)

but maybe the metering system on the k-3 it's so good it gets confused sometimes ). i will try , next time, different white balance settings to see if the AWB it's to blame.
i am amazed how well the metering system work in daylight.. it's like you don't need bracketing ... just perfect..
12-09-2013, 01:35 PM   #26
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just a little heads up . it just happened to me , so if you run into this problem don't freak out.. like i did
so.my battery discharged complettly ( i mean the camera didn't start at all). put it into the charger and the green light started blinking . now....the manual , at page 28 , states that you should replace your battery when : put into the charger the green light blinks or it doesn't come on. (are you kidding me? this is the 4th charge...)
so i let the battery into the charger and after about 10 min .. the green light became stable uff . that was a close one. now it's happly charging for about 1 hour now and no blinking. tested to see if the camera will start and it did.. of course the battery indicator was empty.

does anybody here think that 6:30 hours is a very long time to charge a battery?? another thing .. my experience is that the battery indicator is not very accurate. it stays 80% on full 3 lines .. and then , after the first line disappears the last 2 go out very quickly\
12-09-2013, 04:34 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by burb Quote
does anybody here think that 6:30 hours is a very long time to charge a battery??
Perhaps. But I don't worry about it. I do it overnight. I don't know how long it takes exactly. Even Eneloop AA's can take just as long to charge (even longer sometimes), depending on their condition and the charger you use.

The battery meter is only an approximation. If you want to see the real battery status, take a photo and look at the manufacturers notes in the EXIF

I'd also recommend getting another battery or two, if you don't already have some, and cycling your usage through them. And (from previous K-5 experience) it's probably prudent to never put a freshly charged battery straight into the camera - leave it overnight to 'settle down', or use another battery that you have previously charged some time before. The K-5 was known to behave strangely sometimes with freshly charged batteries, as the charger would often overcharge the batteries slightly.
12-10-2013, 12:29 AM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by rawr Quote
The battery meter is only an approximation.
well of course it is .. but the manual states that the approximation is 390 minutes i leave it over night too . anyway the battery seems to be ok for almost 500 raw photos
12-10-2013, 08:03 AM   #29
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Just a Thought

Browsing this post and lighting problems with LED lights, would a UV filter help with this, as I believe LED emit UV and some of the UV filters have slight tint. no idea if this would help just throwing it out there.
12-10-2013, 08:26 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by gmans Quote
Browsing this post and lighting problems with LED lights, would a UV filter help with this, as I believe LED emit UV and some of the UV filters have slight tint. no idea if this would help just throwing it out there.
well ..no . the photos where shot with Kenko pro1d uv filter. ( i have that on all my lenses).

i think that , the AWB is a little off . i will try different white balances and share the results.
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