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06-23-2016, 08:13 PM   #31
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I mostly use the manual yn560 flashes (have 7 at the moment) for most of my studio work, rarely use the various larger strobes i've got apart from for the main light. remotely controlling the 560's using a yn560-tx is fantastic, tho often just stick a rf605 on the camera as it's smaller. they can also trigger from my old rf602's.

I'd really like to use HSS for some outdoor shoots to avoid buying an ND filter. is it possible to buy a P-TTL flash which supports HSS to then trigger other manual flashes or do I need to buy a whole new speedlight kit for it? sorry if this is answered elsewhere on the forum. just been searching and i *think* it might be possible if i optically trigger from the hotshoe flash.

06-24-2016, 04:36 AM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by zestoi Quote
is it possible to buy a P-TTL flash which supports HSS to then trigger other manual flashes
No. Manual flashes release their energy in a single, very short burst. HSS flashes strobe to provide continuous even lighting for the entire duration of the shutter cycle (1/180th of a second).

All focal plane shutters always take the same amount of time for the leading curtain and trailing curtain to cross the film or sensor. With current Pentax APS-C bodies this is 1/180th of a second. The amount of exposure for any part of the sensor is determined by the time difference between the start of the leading and trailing curtains. X-sync is the shortest time period in which the entire sensor is exposed at the same moment. At speeds faster than X-sync, the trailing curtain starts moving before the leading curtain has finished its journey. The result is a slit traversing the sensor. While the entire exposure always takes 1/180th of a second, each part of the sensor is only exposed while the slit passes by. The narrower the slit, the shorter the exposure time.

Some SLR bodies will trigger the flash at shutter speeds higher than X-sync. What happens is the image shows where the slit was when the flash went off and the duration of the flash. Depending on the amount of ambient light, the rest of the image ranges from underexposed to black.

If you need fill light in situations with very bright ambient backlighting, you either need to use a HSS flash designed specifically for use on your focal plane camera body - or create a light-source that lasts at least as long as the X-sync speed of your camera body. Reflectors often work well for this situation. OR for really high X-sync speeds, use a lens with a built-in leaf shutter. By placing the shutter at the same point as the aperture blades, the mechanical parts have much less mass and much less distance to travel.
06-24-2016, 09:55 AM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by zestoi Quote
...is it possible to buy a P-TTL flash which supports HSS to then trigger other manual flashes...

YES! It is possible! (with a few caveats.)
I've actually responded to similar questions twice this month.

QuoteOriginally posted by TheOneAndOnlyJH Quote
Here's some more info on hypersync. (Copied and edited from a post I wrote last month, in case it seems familiar anyone.)

To make a manual flash work faster than sync speed as a remote slave to a HSS flash, perform this little bit of trickery.
-Set the HSS sync flash to HSS at the lowest output.
-Set the basic flash to Slave mode.
When the HSS flash fires the slave will fire in response. If the HSS flash is set to a low output it shouldn't add much to the exposure.

There are limits, but it works surprisingly well. Check out these two links for more info.

High Speed Sync with YN560 flash: Digital Photography Review

How to do High Speed Sync with Studio Strobes | Callum Winton Photography
The main caveat is that depending on the power setting, the duration of the flash will change. Full power flash lasts longer (more likely to evenly expose the sensor but at the cost of recycle time), and 1/64 flash will be shorter (and more likely to cause sync issues and banding).
06-27-2016, 10:18 AM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by JimJohnson Quote
No. Manual flashes release their energy in a single, very short burst. HSS flashes strobe to provide continuous even lighting for the entire duration of the shutter cycle (1/180th of a second).
QuoteOriginally posted by JimJohnson Quote
If you need fill light in situations with very bright ambient backlighting, you either need to use a HSS flash designed specifically for use on your focal plane camera body - or create a light-source that lasts at least as long as the X-sync speed of your camera body. Reflectors often work well for this situation. OR for really high X-sync speeds, use a lens with a built-in leaf shutter. By placing the shutter at the same point as the aperture blades, the mechanical parts have much less mass and much less distance to travel.
cheers for the information, much appreciated it's possible i guess that my studio strobes would fire for long enough even at lower settings but then that would mean buying portable power units anyway. as well as a reflector i could probably live with just a couple of speedlights if theres such a thing as a PTTL commander for pentax?

I may well just go for an NV filter for starters then. shame the main 2 lenses I'll want to use have 67 and 77mm threads, and my other main two are 62 and 82 I think.

QuoteOriginally posted by TheOneAndOnlyJH Quote
YES! It is possible! (with a few caveats.)
I've actually responded to similar questions twice this month.

The main caveat is that depending on the power setting, the duration of the flash will change. Full power flash lasts longer (more likely to evenly expose the sensor but at the cost of recycle time), and 1/64 flash will be shorter (and more likely to cause sync issues and banding).
cool that's what I was hoping for. I'll certainly give it a go but I guess the issue is whether its reliable enough for a shoot. I do really like the YN560's. I've managed to kill 3 so far during shoots but the shop has always replaced them for me, since they're not supposed in theory to overheat the 6 AA battery pack really helps with recyling time but also helps to overheat them...

I'll have to look to see if there's any threads related to HSS and some dedicated PTTL speedlights.

thanks again to both of you for the info don't know I didnt start posting on here years ago as I've been shooting with pentax for at least 6 years or so.

06-27-2016, 12:09 PM   #35
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I can't say anything about reliability because I've never fired my YN-560's to death, so you've got me there.

In terms of repeatability, you can play with different power settings on your YN-560's in your studio to find out where they start to cause banding across the frame and make a note. The same power level / sync limit should apply whether you're inside or outside.

The main issue I can see with taking it outside is if the sunlight is too bright and the optical slave sensors can't see the on-camera flash. To get better connectivity at longer ranges you would probably need a wireless transmitter. If your YN-560's are version III or IV with the built in receiver you could place one of these optical slave triggers close enough to see the on camera HSS flash with a wireless RF-603 II on it to trigger the flashes. I know it's somewhat convoluted, but it all depends on how much you're willing to spend. I don't do much in the way of HSS outdoors, but I may end up trying it myself just to see how it works!
06-27-2016, 10:20 PM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by TheOneAndOnlyJH Quote
I can't say anything about reliability because I've never fired my YN-560's to death, so you've got me there.
cheers lol sometimes I just need to fire off 3 or 4 shots quickly to catch a models look or pose. oddly I've only managed to kill 560 mk4's though, hasn't happened to any of my mk3's, so I stick to only using those now.

QuoteQuote:
In terms of repeatability, you can play with different power settings on your YN-560's in your studio to find out where they start to cause banding across the frame and make a note. The same power level / sync limit should apply whether you're inside or outside.

The main issue I can see with taking it outside is if the sunlight is too bright and the optical slave sensors can't see the on-camera flash. To get better connectivity at longer ranges you would probably need a wireless transmitter. If your YN-560's are version III or IV with the built in receiver you could place one of these optical slave triggers close enough to see the on camera HSS flash with a wireless RF-603 II on it to trigger the flashes. I know it's somewhat convoluted, but it all depends on how much you're willing to spend. I don't do much in the way of HSS outdoors, but I may end up trying it myself just to see how it works!
ah yep, good idea. I've got a couple of those optical triggers in my bag. years ago once used a RF602 trigger on one so I could trigger my old YN460's when I needed one speedlight on camera shooting through a ring flash type diffuser (which was cheap but fun to experiment with)

I've got a shoot on the beach sometime next week, so for that I'll play it safe and just buy some ND filters. not really sure how many stops I'd need so the variable ones seem like a good bet. seems a shame to have to stick something like an ND in front of the lens tho...

I'll definitely experiment with your ideas though too. Also saw a thread about the cactus V6 and RF60 speedlight. seems a bit fiddly though needing to enter different delays to fire the manual ones depending on the aperture you're using (due to the different times to close the aperture apparently).

I don't suppose the pc cord port will fire (at the right time) with a PTTL speedlight attached in HSS mode?
07-03-2016, 11:04 PM   #37
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How to set K-3 into HSS mode?

Putting Pentax SLR camera body in HSS flash mode (1/200 to 1/4000 shutter speed) is very tricky (!!). How do you set Pentax K-3 in HSS mode (with Pentax AF540FGZ on top)? You are outdoors, with one of the Pentax DA* lenses attached if that matters. You need short shutter time due to strong sunshine/skylight or due to fast subject movements (children running, dogs playing, sports).
07-05-2016, 01:41 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by Prakticant Quote
Putting Pentax SLR camera body in HSS flash mode (1/200 to 1/4000 shutter speed) is very tricky (!!). How do you set Pentax K-3 in HSS mode (with Pentax AF540FGZ on top)? You are outdoors, with one of the Pentax DA* lenses attached if that matters. You need short shutter time due to strong sunshine/skylight or due to fast subject movements (children running, dogs playing, sports).
I believe you must set the flash unit to HSS and the camera will tell it when it is above sync speed. There is no explicit setting on my K-3 for HSS mode. I don't have the AF-540, but on my Metz 50 AF-1 I have to set the flash to HSS mode. If the shutter is below 1/180 the flash will fire in normal mode, if faster than 1/180 then it will fire in HSS mode.

Your best bet is to look up a PDF manual for your flash and read the section on HSS to see how to enable it.

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