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12-23-2013, 01:30 PM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by penmar Quote
Examples. All straight out of camera. All taken handheld, I think. Just resized. Even that, "Save For Web" compression, resizing using different resampling algorithm in Photoshop might have skew the results. Please just click on the raw below the sample (!!! Huge DNG Files !!!) to see it.

1. Before adjustment. Sharp because I used flash. That's how I'd like ... without the flash. This is just one of the very few images that are sharp. The other 99% are like #2 below.


Raw DNG

2. Before adjustment. Sharpest I can get without flash. I won't bother you with hundreds of soft images.


Raw DNG

3. After adjustment. Sharp.


Raw DNG

4. After adjustment. Sharp.


Raw DNG
Thank you penmar! I may be having this issue as well . . . I will do further testing and check with a photographer friend.

12-23-2013, 07:14 PM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by osv Quote
anyway, post up some pics when you get that thing dialed in!
Sure. I will definitely do that.

QuoteOriginally posted by One3rdEV Quote
In regards to the original post- I can't emphasize enough the importance of verifying and performing an AF Fine Focus Adjustment on the Pentax DSLR's based on my personal experience with a K-5 which was quite similar to the original poster. The results can be significant ...
Thanks. That's what I'm finding out with my first DSLR. The one closest to a DSLR that I have was an Olympus C2500L 14 years ago. It was actually quite decent, given me some memorable pictures.

QuoteOriginally posted by beachmama Quote
Thank you penmar! I may be having this issue as well . . . I will do further testing and check with a photographer friend.
You're welcome. I'm sorry to hear about similar issue. May be this image below can help you a little.



Raw DNG

---
As you can see, this image is when I actually realized my focus issue. With my earlier battery test pictures, there is nothing immediately behind the middle battery. So, when all the batteries are a little soft, I still thought mirror slap, cheap tripod, not using the timer as possible issues instead of the focus issue. I wasn't 100% certain until this picture.

In this picture, the size of the red square is smaller than the positive battery nub on top and it is pointing directly to the middle part of the 3rd battery. Yet, the focus is to the taller mini Christmas tree behind it, thus, clearly demonstrating back focus. Of course, it would have been easier with all the available focus charts. However, angle of the charts and distance makes me a little more confused . So, I chose the easier way that I found online somewhere.

Last edited by penmar; 12-23-2013 at 08:40 PM.
12-23-2013, 08:02 PM   #33
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Looks to me like your AF point locked on to the background. The red square is not a good indicator of AF point size.
12-23-2013, 08:45 PM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by twitch Quote
Looks to me like your AF point locked on to the background. The red square is not a good indicator of AF point size.
Does it mean, it might not have been the back focus problem as I thought?

Oh well, since the first K-3 already went back, I will definitely go through the troubleshooting with the help of this forum, just to be sure, if my replacement has any issue. Thanks.

12-24-2013, 12:47 AM   #35
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I like the charts on this pdf, pages 12 & 13 AF chart as the AF point is totally unambiguous and it folds up as a freestanding angled chart. Mind you, I've actually found that adjusting for maximum sharpness at infinity is better.

The DIY AF adjustment range would be very unlikely to compensate for Penmar's battery test BF, that error is massive and more likely to be an unwanted AF lock on the tree for whatever reason. Perhaps the AF points aren't in the same place as the red square, it can happen, and that's quite apart from the real AF point being bigger. I would try and define where the real centre AF point is using a black dot on a plain wall or suchlike.

Last edited by SteveB; 12-24-2013 at 12:53 AM.
12-26-2013, 11:36 PM - 1 Like   #36
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I'd never given any thought to calibrating the auto focus until this thread, but it's obvious when you think about it.

So I used the process from the JF blog and was absolutely blown away by the difference.

Once I'd adjusted to -4 on my k5ii, the images just pop. I'd done done test images before on leaves, but after, you could see veins, ridge patterns, etc.

Well worth the half hour of messing around.

12-28-2013, 08:10 AM   #37
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The one beauty of manual focus. The focusing logic always locks onto what you want to be in focus because it's between your ears.

Pheon
12-28-2013, 01:39 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by penmar Quote
Sure. I will definitely do that.



Thanks. That's what I'm finding out with my first DSLR. The one closest to a DSLR that I have was an Olympus C2500L 14 years ago. It was actually quite decent, given me some memorable pictures.



You're welcome. I'm sorry to hear about similar issue. May be this image below can help you a little.



Raw DNG

---
As you can see, this image is when I actually realized my focus issue. With my earlier battery test pictures, there is nothing immediately behind the middle battery. So, when all the batteries are a little soft, I still thought mirror slap, cheap tripod, not using the timer as possible issues instead of the focus issue. I wasn't 100% certain until this picture.

In this picture, the size of the red square is smaller than the positive battery nub on top and it is pointing directly to the middle part of the 3rd battery. Yet, the focus is to the taller mini Christmas tree behind it, thus, clearly demonstrating back focus. Of course, it would have been easier with all the available focus charts. However, angle of the charts and distance makes me a little more confused . So, I chose the easier way that I found online somewhere.
Thank you so much for this Pennmar and for putting so much time and effort into bringing this to our attention. I will use the JF chart and see what I come up with.

01-03-2014, 11:55 PM   #39
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Hi, I am also having this blurry problem in my K-3. But I think I just found out a quick solution on this problem. Let me write down my solution:

1. Under HIgh-ISO NR option, choose CUSTOM.
2. Then under Setting:

ISO100 OFF
ISO200 OFF
ISO400 OFF
ISO800 OFF
ISO1600 LOW
ISO3200 LOW
ISO6400 LOW
ISO12800 MEDIUM
ISO25600 MEDIUM
ISO51200 MEDIUM

With this setup, I manage to get sharp image even up to ISO6400. Have a try..... No harm!

Regards,

Tommy
01-04-2014, 07:20 AM   #40
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I probably would have lost confident in pentax if I were you. After trying so many things and end up returning the camera although it's probably not pentax fault. I am sure other manufacturer have qc problems as well
01-04-2014, 03:44 PM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by kamayok3 Quote
Hi, I am also having this blurry problem in my K-3. But I think I just found out a quick solution on this problem. Let me write down my solution:

1. Under HIgh-ISO NR option, choose CUSTOM.
2. Then under Setting:

ISO100 OFF
ISO200 OFF
ISO400 OFF
ISO800 OFF
ISO1600 LOW
ISO3200 LOW
ISO6400 LOW
ISO12800 MEDIUM
ISO25600 MEDIUM
ISO51200 MEDIUM

With this setup, I manage to get sharp image even up to ISO6400. Have a try..... No harm!

Regards,

Tommy
Thanks so much for this solution pentax user! I've reset to your suggestions so will see what I get.

I have a one hour session in two days at the camera store where I purchased the K3. It's a one-on-one session and I asked for someone that has experience with the Pentax. The salesperson I spoke to responded with a stifled laugh and said, "well no one here knows much about any of the Pentax . . .". Makes me feel all warm and fuzzy knowing I spent an additional $225 to purchase my camera at my local camera store . . .
01-04-2014, 04:45 PM   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by beachmama Quote
Thank you so much for this Pennmar and for putting so much time and effort into bringing this to our attention. I will use the JF chart and see what I come up with.
You're welcome.

QuoteOriginally posted by kamayok3 Quote
Hi, I am also having this blurry problem in my K-3. But I think I just found out a quick solution on this problem. Let me write down my solution:
....
Have a try..... No harm!
Thanks. Actually, that's the first thing I did since I started noticing it because that was what Ed from PhotoUniverse stated in his video. However, as I was just testing, I didn't do it like you said. I just flat out set NR to OFF.

QuoteOriginally posted by pentax user Quote
I probably would have lost confident in pentax if I were you. After trying so many things and end up returning the camera although it's probably not pentax fault. I am sure other manufacturer have qc problems as well
Well, actually it's not a big deal for me. I could have kept my copy with the +10 af adjustment. In addition, it's nothing wrong technically. It's just not sharp at 100% view; pixel peeping. Since I'm a newbie, I'm assuming it is customary to have to calibrate a new lens on any DSLR. I'm not sure.

Nonetheless, during the holidays, I had a chance to visit stores like Walmart & Best Buy and tested out a few DSLRs. Now I know what people mean by plasticky. There is absolutely no comparison to the K-3's solidness. After a long time of deciding and selecting, I'm sure K-3 is what I want.

I just wish I have the K-3 for the holidays & the new year . Good thing I have an Olympus E-PL3 that was initially gonna be my main camera.

K-3 should be here on Monday. So, I'll update on my 2nd copy as soon as I get it. Thanks.
01-04-2014, 08:11 PM   #43
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QuoteOriginally posted by penmar Quote
You're welcome.



Thanks. Actually, that's the first thing I did since I started noticing it because that was what Ed from PhotoUniverse stated in his video. However, as I was just testing, I didn't do it like you said. I just flat out set NR to OFF.



Well, actually it's not a big deal for me. I could have kept my copy with the +10 af adjustment. In addition, it's nothing wrong technically. It's just not sharp at 100% view; pixel peeping. Since I'm a newbie, I'm assuming it is customary to have to calibrate a new lens on any DSLR. I'm not sure.

Nonetheless, during the holidays, I had a chance to visit stores like Walmart & Best Buy and tested out a few DSLRs. Now I know what people mean by plasticky. There is absolutely no comparison to the K-3's solidness. After a long time of deciding and selecting, I'm sure K-3 is what I want.

I just wish I have the K-3 for the holidays & the new year . Good thing I have an Olympus E-PL3 that was initially gonna be my main camera.

K-3 should be here on Monday. So, I'll update on my 2nd copy as soon as I get it. Thanks.
I'll keep my fingers crossed that the new camera will meet your expectations. I'm still really happy with mine.
01-04-2014, 10:15 PM   #44
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I'm certainly did not mean to imply that there is anything wrong with the exchange path- in fact it is the quickest route to a likely resolution. Just wanted to note an alternate perspective for those who might come along later. In regards to factors that effect AF accuracy, it is possible that the factory specification is a tolerance range- this is a standard production reality, and is intended to accommodate production variation, and it certainly applies to the lenses (thus the reason for AF fine adjustment).

A Pentax service center that has a master lens (e.g. CRIS in the US) can ensure that the specific camera body is set to nominal specification, and can then mechanically adjust Pentax lenses to be properly in focus at that nominal setting (this I know from personal experience).

As one more clarification regarding what I have said (2nd paragraph above) and what the OP noted in the opening info: In particular this applies and can be used to resolve cases where the AF fine adjustment setting of the camera is not capable to accommodate specific lenses. In my case the AF fine adjustment range of my K-5 was not sufficient to accommodate a particular Pentax lens that I had just purchased. Consequently I could not get sharp focus when approaching infinity and I extrapolated that I’d likely have needed a range of +14 to reach proper AF adjustment. I quite strongly believe, based on my own experience and some comments made by others with their K-5 experience, that a fairly accurate AF calibration needs to be made in order for the AF system to function consistently as well as to result in truly sharp images.
01-05-2014, 01:33 PM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by mtngal Quote
I'll keep my fingers crossed that the new camera will meet your expectations. I'm still really happy with mine.
Thank you. Actually, I was pretty happy with mine too ... until the pixel peeping bug hit me . Admittedly, what it is was my newbie's lack of skill and wanting to get a good image like others that prompted me to pursue the pixel level sharpness (aka 3D like IQ in newbie's term) . I'm sure, the replacement will be awesome.

QuoteOriginally posted by One3rdEV Quote
I'm certainly did not mean to imply that there is anything wrong with the exchange path- in fact it is the quickest route to a likely resolution. Just wanted to note an alternate perspective for those who might come along later. In regards to factors that effect AF accuracy, it is possible that the factory specification is a tolerance range- this is a standard production reality, and is intended to accommodate production variation, and it certainly applies to the lenses (thus the reason for AF fine adjustment).

A Pentax service center that has a master lens (e.g. CRIS in the US) can ensure that the specific camera body is set to nominal specification, and can then mechanically adjust Pentax lenses to be properly in focus at that nominal setting (this I know from personal experience).

As one more clarification regarding what I have said (2nd paragraph above) and what the OP noted in the opening info: In particular this applies and can be used to resolve cases where the AF fine adjustment setting of the camera is not capable to accommodate specific lenses. In my case the AF fine adjustment range of my K-5 was not sufficient to accommodate a particular Pentax lens that I had just purchased. Consequently I could not get sharp focus when approaching infinity and I extrapolated that Id likely have needed a range of +14 to reach proper AF adjustment. I quite strongly believe, based on my own experience and some comments made by others with their K-5 experience, that a fairly accurate AF calibration needs to be made in order for the AF system to function consistently as well as to result in truly sharp images.
I understand. The easiest solution of exchanging was recommended by a rep at CRIS though he said if mine was over the exchange period, they should be able to fix it easily as well. His recommendation came because of that extreme "+10" number. More than that and I won't be able to adjust any more. Since I have bought 5 year accidental & 3 year Pentax warranty, I guess I should be pretty safe regardless of the outcome. For newbies buying expensive items as toys/semi-pro use, safe is good .

Nonetheless, I'm happy to have learned the difference between tuned and un-tuned results which is big.

This I can relate, being in the computer field, is analogous to buying a new computer. A brand new computer is fast. But, removing factory junk ware (all those freebies / trial software) and tuning it will make it run even faster, which I do on new computers I buy or build. Probably same thing with cameras.
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