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12-24-2013, 05:30 PM   #1
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55-300mm photos blurry

Ok i know everyones heard it before but i think my case is a bit different from others because it happens in Raw as well as jpeg. So i got my K-3 today and a 55-300 wr and All my photos are looking blurry at 100%. I've tried using faster shutter speeds like 1250 th, I've also turned off the high iso noise reduction and I've tried calibrating the lens but the photos are still blurry. it could still be the lens calibration because i have never done it before so its probably a bit sketchy. I've attached a 100% crop so you guys can have a look.

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Last edited by Reptilezz; 12-24-2013 at 05:41 PM.
12-24-2013, 05:37 PM   #2
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Try using manual focus, and possibly live view to help with the focus for macro shots.

A tripod would help.

I usually use a macro flash, handheld and manual focus. Usually my apertures are in the larger ranges such as f11+ and shutter speed isn't that fast.
12-24-2013, 05:41 PM   #3
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Thanks jackson ill give it a go
12-24-2013, 05:46 PM - 1 Like   #4
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I would recommend trying a tripod. Personally I can go slightly over 200mm without a tripod and get keepers. after that tho I need a tripod to get sharp shots. The longer the focal length the more any movement is magnified.

12-24-2013, 05:55 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by Reptilezz Quote
Ok i know everyones heard it before but i think my case is a bit different from others because it happens in Raw as well as jpeg. So i got my K-3 today and a 55-300 wr and All my photos are looking blurry at 100%. I've tried using faster shutter speeds like 1250 th, I've also turned off the high iso noise reduction and I've tried calibrating the lens but the photos are still blurry. it could still be the lens calibration because i have never done it before so its probably a bit sketchy. I've attached a 100% crop so you guys can have a look.
Try stopping down, at F5.8 the lens is a bit soft.

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12-24-2013, 06:01 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by patrick9 Quote
I would recommend trying a tripod. Personally I can go slightly over 200mm without a tripod and get keepers. after that tho I need a tripod to get sharp shots. The longer the focal length the more any movement is magnified.
I tried the tripod and i dont think it did anything. Thanks for the suggestion though
12-24-2013, 06:03 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by Adam Quote
Try stopping down, at F5.8 the lens is a bit soft.
This gave me mixed results. Sometimes it looked a bit sharper and other times it was the same. I tried stipping down to f8 and f10 what would you recommend?

12-24-2013, 06:04 PM   #8
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Did you try LIve View?
12-24-2013, 06:08 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by Reptilezz Quote
This gave me mixed results. Sometimes it looked a bit sharper and other times it was the same. I tried stipping down to f8 and f10 what would you recommend?
That aperture range should be the sharpest. Keep in mind that the 55-300mm isn't a pro lens, so don't expect too much of it at the long end. As great as it might be, it's no 60-250mm

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12-24-2013, 06:09 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by Billy Joe Quote
Did you try LIve View?
Yeah i did, i dont think it did much
12-24-2013, 06:11 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by Adam Quote
That aperture range should be the sharpest. Keep in mind that the 55-300mm isn't a pro lens, so don't expect too much of it at the long end. As great as it might be, it's no 60-250mm
Yeah i know, but i cant even crop a bird 50% without it being unusable form being blurry.
12-24-2013, 07:20 PM   #12
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Tripod won't be of much help if you aren't using a cable release or IR and setting the capture to MUP because the mirror slap will cause enough vibration to blur an image shot at 300mm.
I also keep SR *off*..
That's how I use my 55-300mm at the long end. I get very sharp shots that way.
12-24-2013, 09:46 PM   #13
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In daylight, shoot a fence or wall or street curb at an angle, at different focal lengths, from about 20 feet to see if anything is in focus. You should be able to hand-hold it, but you can use a (good) tripod with the self timer (which disables SR). If something is in focus, you can then calibrate the AF. If nothing is in focus, post a sample or two.
12-24-2013, 09:56 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by SpecialK Quote
In daylight, shoot a fence or wall or street curb at an angle, at different focal lengths, from about 20 feet to see if anything is in focus. You should be able to hand-hold it, but you can use a (good) tripod with the self timer (which disables SR). If something is in focus, you can then calibrate the AF. If nothing is in focus, post a sample or two.
I did do this but with a focus chart leaned on an angle and the focus looked exactly where it should be but i could be wrong. Could the lens be faulty? If it is i wont be able to test if another one is better becuase there arnt any of these lenses in australia yet.
12-25-2013, 01:17 AM   #15
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After looking at the shots i took of this pacific baza i have found that none of them are sharp this is a very light crop to get the bird in frame. Should i exchange for a new lens? Or send in for service/calibrating
EDIT: iit looks like there is lots of noise reduction also but ive got noise reduction to OFF and when i was shooting raw it had the same effect. Also at 55 the image is very crisp and clear
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Last edited by Reptilezz; 12-25-2013 at 01:25 AM.
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