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01-07-2014, 02:07 PM   #1
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Lens settings for correction

I need a little help with my K-3 camera settings.
There are 3 options and I'm assuming that they are default.

DIstortion Correction and Peripheral Illumuin. Cor. are both OFF
The Lat-Chromatic-Ab Adj is ON

Also: D-Range Setting are set to auto for both Highlight & Shadow Correction


I haven't a clue as to what these settings do...
I'm sure I'll find some more that confuse me in the future...

01-07-2014, 02:35 PM   #2
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distortion correction fixes distortion when you're using pentax lenses that the camera can recognize. It does a good job, but takes a fairly long time, so if you plan to take rapid photos, you might want to leave it turned off and just fix distortion in post with lightroom or whatever other software you prefer. Same for Chromatic aberration adjustment - that should help remove the slight blurring of component colors that usually shows up as fringing (usually purple and green). Peripheral Illumination correction must be new, my K5 doesn't have that. I'd guess it helps with vignetting.

D-Range messes with your ISO ratings to help prevent blown out light and dark areas. On my old Nikon it only actually did anything for JPG, not raw images, but I seem to recall reading on here that at least the highlight correction affects raw as well? At least, it limits your ISO range regardless of how you're shooting. Hopefully someone more informed will follow up
01-07-2014, 03:34 PM   #3
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The K-3 processor is now fast enough that the in-camera lens corrections do not take more than a second/frame to perform. Unless you are doing burst shooting where every second counts, I would just leave all the lens corrections enabled.

Jack
01-07-2014, 04:40 PM   #4
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A lot of those affect only the jpeg. So if you shoot raw, it might be useless to have them enabled, they will only slow down the processing. Keep in mind also that (especially) the distortion correction can slow down the camera (dunno about the K-3, but it does with previous Pentax cameras) even if you shoot raw, because it is still applied to the preview jpeg files embedded in the raw container (dng or pef).
Highlight correction is the one that affects the raw, since it shoots at lower ISO and digitally brightens the photo without clipping the highlights. So the raw data is actually darker than the preview photograph and it might also affect the brightness curves. Its a bit of a mystery how exactly it works. Some users like this functions, some don't because it limits your selectable ISO range. I like it when shooting on overcast days.

Other than the Peripheral Illumuin. Cor, those features were already available in previous models, so you can find threads about them. (btw, could this be vignetting? or purple fringing?)

tl;dr. If you shoot jpeg and have the time, enable them. If you shoot raw or want fast burst mode, disable them.


Last edited by Na Horuk; 01-07-2014 at 04:46 PM.
01-07-2014, 04:51 PM   #5
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I googled it… for Canons at least, it's supposed to fix vignetting. I'd assume the function is the same on Pentax

QuoteQuote:
What is Peripheral Illumination Correction all about?

Virtually all camera lenses are designed so that the volume of light transmitted to the image sensor tends to decrease somewhat from the center of the image to the corners. Many different terms are used to describe this phenomenon, such as “vignetting,” “light fall-off,” “unevenness of illumination,” etc. Most experienced photographers are well aware of this common lens performance characteristic, and some take advantage of it for creative effects. Vignetting, for example, has been a popular artistic technique for centuries. It draws attention to a well-lit main subject by darkening the areas surrounding it. Intentional vignetting can be effective in a wide variety of photographic applications, including landscapes, portraiture, and advertising photography to name a few.

However, there are many other shooting situations where uneven peripheral illumination can be very distracting and undesirable. Examples include aerial photography, sports photography, seascapes, and any other kind of composition where consistent, even illumination across the frame is preferred. For these situations, the less falloff there is in an image, the better. Generally speaking, uneven peripheral illumination or light falloff is at its worst at the maximum aperture of the lens, whatever that happens to be. It could be f/1.2 with a fast prime lens, f/2.8 with a professional zoom lens, or even f/5.6 with a consumer-grade zoom lens. In most cases, peripheral illumination is also affected by the distance setting – it gets worse at infinity because the entire coverage of the lens is being used, but it gets better at closer distances because the lens is projecting a larger image towards the image sensor and as a result the sensor is effectively seeing a cropped view. In almost all cases, uneven peripheral illumination quickly diminishes as the aperture of the lens is stopped down. For most high-quality lenses today, uneven peripheral illumination is no longer a concern once the lens is stopped down by a couple of f/stops or more.
01-07-2014, 06:33 PM   #6
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Thanks for the responses....it's funny but when I first got this K-3 a few weeks ago I was completely overwhelmed with the settings menu
....little by little now, Not So Much
I plan on eventually shooting everything in RAW because I'm the type of person who likes to tinker with PP.
I'm slowly learning to use DxO and Lightroom 5 but I seem to prefer DxO.
01-07-2014, 06:41 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by peterjcb Quote
Thanks for the responses....it's funny but when I first got this K-3 a few weeks ago I was completely overwhelmed with the settings menu
....little by little now, Not So Much
I plan on eventually shooting everything in RAW because I'm the type of person who likes to tinker with PP.
I'm slowly learning to use DxO and Lightroom 5 but I seem to prefer DxO.
Start now (Raw+JPG if you prefer). You can go back and tinker with the ones you shoot today later, but you can't convert a JPG to a raw.

You have nothing to lose except your hard drive space.

01-07-2014, 06:47 PM   #8
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LOL....if you saw the hard drives and 64/32GB USB thumb drives sitting on my desk you would know that disk space is the last thing that concerns me
.....good suggestion though since I already have a 32GB in the #1 slot and a 16GB card in the #2 spot!
01-09-2014, 06:40 AM   #9
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Space doesn't concern you.. yet With 24MP photos in raw.. if you use bracketing or burst mode.. add a video here and there.. things can fill up surprisingly fast
01-09-2014, 11:26 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by Na Horuk Quote
Space doesn't concern you.. yet With 24MP photos in raw.. if you use bracketing or burst mode.. add a video here and there.. things can fill up surprisingly fast
this I read as I delete unused stuff from my hard drive to make room for the 750 15mm ltd photos I shot this morning in an hour of killing time. I probably should have turned bracketing off for 90% of them. I would have run out of room on a 16GB card. And that was with the K5, which is only 16 megapixel.
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